insulating the HLT?

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FSR402

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I'm working on making the fly sparge manifold for my 80qt cooler MLT so I can try out the whole fly sparge deal. I don"t need to, just want to do it when I have the extra time.

Anyway, my HLT is just a 7.5 gal stainless kettel that's gravity feed to the MLT. With it being so high and "out in the open" I lose heat FAST. So maintaining sparging temp will be a huge PITA.

I have seen some of the insolating some have done here with electric HLT's but I can't seem to find jack on one that uses fire.

Anyone know of something I can use to insolate this thing with that can hold up to the heat?
 
you can insulate with that foil-insulation stuff, kinda looks like bubble wrap sandwiched by two sheets of silver foil. works on gas or electric HLT's.
 
i don't know if i would use that bubble wrap crap i would use something like mineral wool or fiberglass blanket for that hot and being close to flame you need something that is fire retardent but i am also a heat and frost insulator so it is easier for me to get that type of stuff
 
i don't know if i would use that bubble wrap crap i would use something like mineral wool or fiberglass blanket for that hot and being close to flame you need something that is fire retardent but i am also a heat and frost insulator so it is easier for me to get that type of stuff

So give me some info of what it is and where a normal man could get it. :mug:


I was thinking about the bubble/tin stuff. That's what I have seen the electric ones done with. Just not sure how it would hold up to the heat of the flame.
 
Insolation, incedentally, is a measurement of the sun'e intensity.:D

I would not use the foil bubble wrap either, mainly because it's R-value is about 2.25, and you could get that by squinting and looking sidways at your HLT.:)
 
What's wrong with adding a two or three inch wide ring at the top and bottom of the keg out of stainless plus rolling a stainless wrapper around over both said top and bottom rings? Add expanding foam filling the spacer between the keg and the wrapper plus insulating the top and bottom of the keg ends. You should have a couple of vent holes for the expanding foam to excape, when oozing out wipe off and add duct tape preventing dead air spaces. This should add to heat retension especially if it's an all electric heated system besides expanding foam is closed cell not like a sponge taking on water. I would Tig tack weld the rings in place but have a couple of openings to fill and vent this space for expanding foam, trim off what "burps" out of the fill holes. Cut off the expanded "burped" foam then seal the "burp" holes with a water proof sealer. I bet this would make for a waterproof insulated foam media with a high "R" rating to greatly help maintain your temps. Anything's better than bare 15.5 gallon kegs no matter how pretty or polished they look. You want function or polished beauty queen kegs to make consistent bier? This insulated without looking like some kind of ugly found in the swamp item if designed properly.
 
Try to find some local Insualtion shop and deal through them Home Deport and other shops like that wouldn't help even if they had that stuff they would rip you off. If you are having trouble finding a shop call up Local 47 Heat and Frost Insualtors and they should point you in the right direction.
 
I'm working on making the fly sparge manifold for my 80qt cooler MLT so I can try out the whole fly sparge deal. I don"t need to, just want to do it when I have the extra time.

Anyway, my HLT is just a 7.5 gal stainless kettel that's gravity feed to the MLT. With it being so high and "out in the open" I lose heat FAST. So maintaining sparging temp will be a huge PITA.

I have seen some of the insolating some have done here with electric HLT's but I can't seem to find jack on one that uses fire.

Anyone know of something I can use to insolate this thing with that can hold up to the heat?
I use another cooler for my HLT. I heat the sparge water to about 190 deg and then transfer it to the cooler. That holds my temp well for the entire sparge. I also put a valve set up in the cooler and control the flow of the sparge water that way.
 
I use another cooler for my HLT. I heat the sparge water to about 190 deg and then transfer it to the cooler. That holds my temp well for the entire sparge. I also put a valve set up in the cooler and control the flow of the sparge water that way.

I thought about doing something like that but I have a 3 tier sculpture for the reason of not lifting. So this would mean adding a 4th tier and thus making it taller yet.
:(

I will check around and see if I can come up with something local I guess. I like the idea of basicly putting it in a larger kettel and adding insolation between but damn that would cost some $$$.
 
I use the 3 layers of the foil/bubble wrap taped together with aluminum tape for my keggle. I also put a blanket on the lid. I lose 1-2dF per hour.
BrewSystem2.jpg
 
You don't have any problems with it melting ?

No, but the keg skirt helps. Also, kegs have those 4 little drainage holes in the skirt, through which flames can shoot up through. So, I put aluminum tape over those holes as well. I just make sure to be careful to allow good air flow to the bottom and light right away as I turn on the gas so propane doesn't build up under the skirt and cause an explosion.

Your mash tun probably has no skirt, so in your case, if I were to try the foil bubble wrap, I would run aluminum tape a couple inches up from the bottom around the circumference of the pot, connecting the pot and the bubble wrap with the aluminum tape. Depending on how far your flames shoot up the sides, this may work. Otherwise, you'll have to use some sort of fire-retardent/proof insulation material as others suggested. But keep in mind, too, that on your mash tun, you don't need the flames going full blast like for the boil.
 
Is that expanding foam fire resistant? And would it keep it insulated well enough. You could always just buy some flashing and set up some kind of mold with it. Then spay that stuff in between the flashing and the HLT. Maybe use some grease or oil to keep the foam from sticking to the flashing. Let it dry and remove. I think that may work, but I am just throwing an idea out there.
 
No, but the keg skirt helps. Also, kegs have those 4 little drainage holes in the skirt, through which flames can shoot up through. So, I put aluminum tape over those holes as well. I just make sure to be careful to allow good air flow to the bottom and light right away as I turn on the gas so propane doesn't build up under the skirt and cause an explosion.

Your mash tun probably has no skirt, so in your case, if I were to try the foil bubble wrap, I would run aluminum tape a couple inches up from the bottom around the circumference of the pot, connecting the pot and the bubble wrap with the aluminum tape. Depending on how far your flames shoot up the sides, this may work. Otherwise, you'll have to use some sort of fire-retardent/proof insulation material as others suggested. But keep in mind, too, that on your mash tun, you don't need the flames going full blast like for the boil.

My MLT is fine it's an 80qt cooler. It's the HLT that I need to insulate. I think I will try and find some of that bubble wrap and tape. Then just wrap it up above the b-valve. That should keep it high enough not to be in direct fire. If it melts I'll know soon and can pull it off and try something else.
 
Is that expanding foam fire resistant? And would it keep it insulated well enough.

The expanding foam that I used on a friends tank was filled with foam (extra cans off the job site) used on electrical and fire protection pipe penetrations thru the electrical room closets on a 37 story highrise. Yes I believe said foam item is approved by the fire marshal. I have used standard expanding foam in a box and cans used for hot tubs. Again no worries as this is for all electric heating systems. I have a natural gas line in the patio to hook onto besides propane but will not pay those crazy propane prices not alone wanting NG flames under my kegs. I'm talking all electiric heating where you can insulate the kegs fully including top and bottom without flame worries. JMO's.
 
Is that expanding foam fire resistant? And would it keep it insulated well enough.

The expanding foam that I used on a friends tank was filled with foam (extra cans off the job site) used on electrical and fire protection pipe penetrations thru the electrical room closets on a 37 story highrise. Yes I belive said foam item is approved by the fire marshal. I don't recall the "R" rating of this foam. I have used standard expanding foam in a box and cans as used on hot tubs. Again no worries as this is for all electric heating systems. I have natural gas in the patio besides propane but will not pay those crazy propane prices not alone wanting NG flames under my kegs. All electiric heating only, I can insulate the kegs fully without flame worries. JMO's.
 
I've been wondering if header tape would work. You know, the mesh type tape you put on engine exhaust headers. I have a couple of friends that have it on their motorcyle pipes and it seems to be something that could be used for this application (plus looks cool). To apply you just soak it and wrap it then let dry. Like I said, I was wondering if it might work, I have not tried it. Any thoughts?
 
I use the foil bubble wrap and direct fire my mash tun and have had no problems. It has helped to stablize my mash temperatures greatly.
 
Maybe something like THIS would work. The 2nd one down...


The question is, is that a closed cell material or will it become a soggy wet sponge if water was spilled or when it was washed?

Header tape will absorb water hence destroying any R rating your looking for besides that's the best header destroying item made for headers.
 
Try to find some local Insualtion shop and deal through them Home Deport and other shops like that wouldn't help even if they had that stuff they would rip you off. If you are having trouble finding a shop call up Local 47 Heat and Frost Insualtors and they should point you in the right direction.

Got to love you other union brothers, I.B.E.W. local 595 sparkie here forced to early retirement due to job related back injury. Love the medical coverage for myself and family.
Not to offend others getting off track here a bit.

That fire retardant expanding foam for floor to floor hole penetration seals in high rises that's approved by the fire marshal must mean something on the ability of the product preventing fire and smoke from passing thru to the upper floors. Not cheap but you get what ya pays for. JMO.
 
I have had no problems with water with the foil wrap. I spray it down everytime. I used real ducting tape to put it on, the aluminum tape.
 
I have had no problems with water with the foil wrap. I spray it down everytime. I used real ducting tape to put it on, the aluminum tape.

Well I tried this bubble and aluminum tape. It did not work. As soon as I fired up the tape started to let go from the heat. This was on the HLT I also tried the kettel. The kettle worked about the same when I was boiling water to run thru the CFC. But once I cranked to to get 15 gallons to a boil the bubble stuff went right into flame. I had to quickly pull it all off.

Looks like I need to come up with something else.
 
A friend of mine uses an old wetsuit that he stretches over his HLT, after he heats it up to temp.
 

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