Review my first shot at a recipe please

I hope I make some sense here. I have brewed for a bit but this is my first time taking the wheel!

I am going for a lighter IPA. I am blending a few recipes.
Essentially, I am looking for some of the hops complexity of Loose Cannon with a lighter malt profile. I love the clean crispness of Dogfish head 60 but I am not a huge fan of what the hops is doing in there.

I guess my first concern would be if the hops is out of balance. Strong "bitter forward" beer doesnt work for me. Subtlety is what I would like to achieve.

I am thinking Nottingham or Pacman.
Mashed at 152.

Any and all help is much appreciated!

Ingredients:
------------
Amount
9.00 lb 2 Row
1 lb. Maris Otter
0.5 oz. German Munich
0.5 oz. Carapils

0.5 oz. AMARILLO (FWH)
1.0 oz Centennial (60 min.)
.5 oz. CENTENNIAL (30 min.)
.5 oz. AMARILLO (30 min.)

.5 oz Amarillo (10 min)
.5 oz Palisade (10 min)

.5 oz. AMARILLO (DRYHOP)
.5 oz. PALISADE (DRYHOP)

Recipe looks fine. Only suggestion would be to go with the Pacman yeast.

That will be a pretty low SG/high IBU brew. I come up with 1.086ish IBU/SG @ 63.2IBU and 1.058 SG.
I think that would present itself as 'hop forward' IMHO.
Throw a pound of table sugar in there (raising the SG to 1.067 and dropping IBU to 59.2) and you'd have a totally different beer at .893IBU/SG without affecting the malt profile much.

Just my $.02.

... Or... shift all of your later hop additions besides the first one 5 minutes closer to end of boil and make the last one at 2 minutes. That would have nearly the same effect as the sugar without it's addition. It'd also give ya some more/better aroma.

Ugh that's way too high for me.
I gotta drop it Dow to 40. Suggestions?

Replace Centennial w/ Cascade and move all the Amarillo to dry hop? Except for FWH.(40.8 IBU)
Or... Replace Centennial w/ Cascade and move all the boil Amarillo to 2 minutes instead of 10 and 30. (44.2 IBU)
That'd get ya in the 40 IBU range with some of the same flavor/aroma of Centennial.

I say only use about a half oz of bittering hops, no 30 minute addition, and stick a 0min addition in there of about 1-2oz

I just made my first SNPA clone, modified it a lil bit in Brewtarget, which is free... I put .750oz Amarillo @ 30 min, .250oz Cascade @ 1 min and 1oz Simcoe @ 1 min... Boil SG was 1.052. Had it in the primary 1 week, gravity is now 1.012. Light bitterness at roughly 40 IBUs and a lil sweet, but I dry hopped it with .750oz Cascade, .250oz Amarillo and another 1oz of Simcoe all in a sock..


.

I will download brewtarget tonight. I need to be able to measure this better. Thanks for the suggestions... here what I am now thinking:

Ingredients:
------------
Amount
9.00 lb 2 Row
1 lb. Maris Otter
0.5 oz. German Munich
0.5 oz. Carapils

0.25 oz. AMARILLO (FWH)
1.0 oz cascade (60 min.)

.5 oz Amarillo (2 min)
.5 oz Palisade (10 min)

.5 oz. AMARILLO (DRYHOP)
.5 oz. PALISADE (DRYHOP)

Better. I like to have some hops added at 15 minutes, and then either 5 or 0 minutes (or both) and no 30 minute hops. You're sorta close to that.

Two more comments that I should have said with my first post:

1) I'm pretty sure we're all reading that as ".5 POUND Munich" but just wanted to make sure you realized it says "oz."
2) Maris Otter, while having a pretty unique and interesting flavor and aroma, is not really going to make much of an effect in your beer in those low quantities. Don't think that this malt can be used like Aromatic for example. A pound of Aromatic will add a nice, noticeable toasty breadiness to your beer. To sub one pound of two row with Maris Otter (which is essentially what you're doing - one base malt for another) will barely make a difference.

If you want to get some breadiness, but not too much, maybe go with 50% of your base malt as Maris Otter and the rest two-row.

Yeah, half a pound, not 5 oz. Me No Typem 2 good.

As far as the grain bill, I want a good base but its more of a platform for the hop flavor and aroma. I might drop the Maris and up the 2 row just to keep things simple.

Do you leach much acid from the hops at flame out?

It depends how quickly you begin to cool your wort. My typical procedure is to cut the flame at 0min, add the hops, and then turn on the chiller. Within five minutes they're down below the isomerization temp (somewhere in the 170s).

Other homebrewers will use a technique that more closely mimics commercial brewery's whirlpooling - they cut the flame, add the hops, and the let it sit for 20-30 minutes before beginning to cool.

But putting all this aside, I love a 0min addition. It adds a super bright and expansive aroma to the beer. Not as piquant as dry hopping, but still big and expressive.

Well those are certainly the characteristics I am going for. I am not a fan of Bitter (yet) but I love the floral. I think I might move the 10 minute to 1 or 0 min. With the FWH and the 60 I think I will have more than enough acid.

This is fun. I wish it didnt take 6-7 weeks before I knwo how it works! but hell best things are worth waiting for.

Thanks so much