Water Profile

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

astewart

Active Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2010
Messages
35
Reaction score
0
Location
US
I posted this in general earlier but I think this is probably where this should be.

I have gotten some information on my local water profile from my water dept.
To me it looks like everything is pretty low except sulfate and chloride. Although compared to other profiles from around the world these are not very high. So my question is - Does any one have any comments about what kind of beer(s) this water is suited for or maybe suggestions and things to be concerned with!? Up till now I haven't been paying too much attention to the water profile so all comments are welcome.

Calcium 8 ppm
Magnesium 4.2 ppm
Sodium 30 ppm
Sulfate 38 ppm
Chloride 53 ppm
Ammonia ~ 0.2 pp billion
Nitrate 2.5 ppm
Nitrite 0.02 ppm
Hardness as CaCO3 37
Alkalinity as CaCO3 15

Bicarbonate HCO3 * they do not test for this and do not use any bicarb for water modification - His comment was that it should be low. I am south of Boston so maybe I should use 10 ppm as I have seen for their water profile.

PH 7.5 **tested daily and 7.5 is their target.

Thanks All
 
I assume you're an AG brewer? Your water should be able to be used in the mash as is for about a 14 SRM beer (amber ale, ESB, etc). You can add salts to the boil to bump up your calcium (50ppm minimum) with either gypsum or calcium chloride to get the chloride to sulfate ratio you want. As you've probably read, a lower chloride to sulfate ratio accentuates the hops while a higher ratio rounds out the beer.

I used the EZ Water calculator 2.0 to get 14 SRM as a good approximate SRM:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/ez-water-calculator-2-0-a-195940/
 
But they do test for bicarbonate. That's what alkalinity measures (though indirectly. If the pH of the water is less than about 9 (and it is) all of alkalinity is due to bicarbonate in potable water. Take the alkalinity and divide by 50 (15/50 = 0.3) and then multiply by 61 (.3*61 = 18.3). That, 18.3, is the bicarbonate ion content of your water.

As to the water in general it can be used to brew a whole range of beers from very light in color to stout. The main exception would be lagers that use noble hops as the sulfate is a little high for that. Sulfate can be reduced to levels low enough for those beers by a simple 1:1 dilution with RO or DI water. For beers in which sulfate hop character is desired, by contrast, the sulfate is low so you might want to add a tsp of gypsum per 5 gallons for beers like that to start. The calcium is low and you would probably do well to boost it by adding a tsp of calcium chloride to each 5 gallons of water for most beers. Again, some lagers, in particular Bohemian Pils, are made with very soft water and you wouldn't do calcium supplementation for those.

You water fits under the description of "soft" in the Primer in the stickies. Therefore, the general guidance in the Primer applies to your water.
 
Thank you both for the replies!

Jescholler
I am gearing up for all grain but I do partial mash sort of like the deathbrewer stovetop method. I have a fair sized pot so I can do about 5 lbs of grain.
Thank you for the link to the EZ calculator.

Ajdelange
That's a nice calc for the bicarbonate Ill change my value to 18.3.
It seems I need to scour the forum for posted info and the primers.

I do appreciate the comments!!!
I think one of the best aspects of brewing is that even if you don't know every thing you can still brew good (sometimes great beer), and when your ready to make another step adding knowledge only helps the whole. Thank you for helping with my steps.
 
In addition to what I can find on the forum are there any books you would recommend?
 
For the other regions of the brewing world that have 'soft' water do commercial breweries make additions to their water or do they just use what they have?
 
I have had softened water to drink, my water definitely does not have that odd mouth feel. Does beer made with softened water retain that 'slippery' mouth feel?
 
Ajdelange

Does your recommendation for British beers (Add 1 tsp gypsum as well as 1 tsp calcium chloride) include the sauermalz or should that be left out? Also I assume (yes I know thats often a mistake) these additions would be appropriate for American style light ales and IPAs.?.?
 
Yes, the British recommendation is the baseline (which includes 2% sauermalz and 1 tsp CaCl2.2H20) plus 1 tsp gypsum. One needs to be aware, however, that the base malts used in making ales (pale ale malt) usually have a distilled water pH as much as 0.15 unit lower than the base malts (Pilsner malt) used in making lagers. I really encourage people to obtain and use pH meters. Without there is got to be some uncertainty about these things.

Other questions:

Is the British recommendation suitable for American style ales and IPAs? I assume so too but I don't brew those styles.

Do soft water breweries add salts? Sometimes yes and sometimes no. In the traditional brews made at a particular location the general answer is "No". They learned to make the beer they could with the water they had. The water chemistry we take for granted today was not so widely understood in those days. Soft water generally makes better beer so that anyone who experimented with adding minerals to an available soft water supply would soon discover that this was not a great idea.

Books? Also no. There are lots of articles in magazines and on the net, however. But some are better than others and many contain some sort of bombshell. Most commonly this has to do with carbonate and bicarbonate as the chemistry of those is quite intricate if not complex but some also advance the notion that there is a strong correlation between beer color and the water chemistry it was made with (there isn't) and/or attach great importance to chloride/sulfate ratio which, while that may be justified in some cases isn't generally. Another common problem is with profiles for various brewing cities which the authors instruct you how to match (usually with a spreadsheet). The profiles are often not matchable (in the sense that the ion concentrations in them cannot exist in a physically realizable water).

It's just a difficult subject. I have been trying for 20 years to figure out how to simplify it and the best I have been able to come up with in that time is the Primer. I find it interesting, after all those years, that I'm getting a fair amount of positive feedback on it i.e. people are following it and reporting substantial improvements in their beers.

Does beer made with soft water have that funny mouthfeel associated with very low ion water? No. The stuff from the malt and fermentation mask that (not that it is really a flavor that needs masking but rather an un-flavor).
 
Again, thanks for the input.

I did a quick online brewery store search for PH meters. Do you have any recommendations? I know paying more doesn't always get you more. Are the PH and temp tools ok or is it best to stay away from something that's trying to do two things but may not do either well? The prices I am seeing ($30 to $80 ish) don't seem bad but it would be nice to avoid one or another if something is known to be a bad product.

So are you saying that the generalized additions are a 'quick fix' for the water and that a commercial brewery would alter there brewing methods to compensate for or utilize better the water they have to work with? Or do they avoid some styles due to their water and just brew with what they have and stick to what they can make well with it?

I will try your recommended additions. I have just put an IPA into a keg so I'll brew the same in the next few weeks and do a comparison of the two. Of course this will take a while as I think its at a good drinkable state at about a month and a half from brew day.

Bit of a bummer on the no books front - I guess I'll start another binder and do some searching, if you have any recommendations please post.
 
I did a quick online brewery store search for PH meters. Do you have any recommendations? I know paying more doesn't always get you more. Are the PH and temp tools ok or is it best to stay away from something that's trying to do two things but may not do either well? The prices I am seeing ($30 to $80 ish) don't seem bad but it would be nice to avoid one or another if something is known to be a bad product.

Recommendations are tough because I use meters you wouldn't even want to consider (but I drive a beat up old pickup truck). I did buy a pHep 5 in the 0.05 accuracy configuration and have checked it against other meters a few times and it seems OK. But I don't use it in my regular brewing or experimentation. Others here recommend other meters. They say its accuracy is only 0.05 but if you cal it it reads better than that in the cal buffers and I don't really see how you can screw up readings between the buffers if it is on for the buffers unless the A/D is really coarse or non linear.

I know how you feel about thing that slice and dice but knowing temperature accurately is important for a pH meter which means that any good meter will be reading temperature quite accurately (and this includes the under $100 ones).

So are you saying that the generalized additions are a 'quick fix' for the water and that a commercial brewery would alter there brewing methods to compensate for or utilize better the water they have to work with?

That was what they did traditionally. Remember that they brew the same beers over and over and have, therefore, the opportunity to try it with 10 kilos of sauermalz this week and 11 next and probably have some kind of trained panel to evaluate the 2 resulting beers to see which is better.


Or do they avoid some styles due to their water and just brew with what they have and stick to what they can make well with it?

Again that's what the did traditionally. They didn't brew Boh Pils in Dublin nor Stout in Pilsen.

I will try your recommended additions. I have just put an IPA into a keg so I'll brew the same in the next few weeks and do a comparison of the two. Of course this will take a while as I think its at a good drinkable state at about a month and a half from brew day.

That's the only way to get really dialed in. Do it over and over again. Take good notes. Have your friends taste it etc.

Bit of a bummer on the no books front - I guess I'll start another binder and do some searching, if you have any recommendations please post.

You can look at Kai Tröster's site and Martin Brungard's as well. They both know what they are talking about. You are welcome to look at my site (www.wetnewf.org) as well but I tend to be more geeky than those guys.

If you really want to understand this get a good chemistry text and read up on the Law of Mass Action, ionic equilibria, Henderson - Hasselbalch equation and things like that. Once you understand how that works you can calculate the distribution of carbonic, bicarbonate and carbonate ions from pH and alkalinity data. If you can do that you are 90% of the way there.
 
I'll do some reading in some of the prospective meter candidates and go from there. My trucks not that old but I still want to keep the budget within sight.

My friends always seem fine with trying my latest so that won't be an issue. I take what I consider fair notes, the water variations will add another fold though.

I have an old Chem text here somewhere I'll have to see if it covers any of the topics you mention otherwise I'll see what the library has to offer.

If you've been messing with this subject for more than 20 years I'll take it that your at a different level than a casual home brewer.
 
I tried your site a couple of times but it does not come up. Maybe a maintenance issue or something I'll give it another try over the next few days.
 
My water does not have an overbearing chlorine smell but it does have some. If I use a filter with charcoal to remove the chlorine will that change the water in any other way? I am not thinking a full RO set up just one of the under sink or 'full house' style sold at home depot or lowes.
 
1. For Henderson Hasselbalch try a biochemistry text.

2. My website is sometimes difficult to get to. It's on a old Mac Mini (that's also busy logging fermenter temperature data at the moment) and connected to an ISP that does everything it can to discourage people from operating web sites on their own

3. A carbon filter will remove organics, chlorine and chloramine but will not remove any ions such as calcium, magnesium, sulfate etc.

4. Yes, I suppose I know more about brewing water chemistry than the average home brewer but I still don't understand it all.
 
I'll swing by the library this week to see if there is a biochem text covering HH.

I've been able to get onto your site since my initial trial. Looks like lot's of good info. I have started reading some, some of this is above my current knowledge base but that's how progress is made.

I'll pre-fill some 5 gal water jugs with filtered water so I have a ready supply for brew days.
 
ajdelange,

For the PH/Temp meters I have seen some with a temperature range of 23 to 140 F (-5 to 60 C) sold at brewing supply sites. Are these of any use to a brewer? Won't I need something with at least ATC at or above 160F.
 
This one (HM Digital PH-200 pH/Temp Meter/Tester/Waterproof on e-bay) has a high end of 176F and an accuracy of 0.02, its a bit more$. Is this unnecessary? I want to get a decent usable tool and not have to buy another after I find out I made a purchasing mistake. I've been through the 'I'll save money and just get this one' loop before;) I don't want to dump cash for no reason though.......
 
Yooper;
The simple solution may be the best!


BTW; nice AEON flux style avatar.
 
ajdelange,

For the PH/Temp meters I have seen some with a temperature range of 23 to 140 F (-5 to 60 C) sold at brewing supply sites. Are these of any use to a brewer? Won't I need something with at least ATC at or above 160F.

As has been noted you will want to take measurements at room temperature. There are several reasons for this:

1. Temperature cycling is stressful to the thin glass membrane which is the working part of your meter and will result in shortened electrode life.

2. Calibrating and measuring at the same or nearly the same temperature does not make much demand on the ATC system. This is good as while ATC does work at higher temperature its is a source of error unless the electrode is perfect. The smaller the temperature excursion the smaller this error.

3. True pH (i.e. the actual pH of the mash or wort) is dependent on temperature. The difference between a pH measured at protein rest temperature and a pH measured at sachharification temperature will largely be because of temperature difference. If the pH is measured at room temperature the real pH difference, if any can be observed even though neither measurement represents the true pH.

4. It is standard practice to take measurements at room temperature. In order to be able to compare pH values you obtain to those obtained by others you want to make your measurements the same way they do.
 
Do you try and cool the sample or just let it naturally come down to room temp? Is time a factor? At what stage(s) of the mash are PH readings taken. The initial PH (from water to water with grain at a temp) will change until it gets to a stable level, right?
 
Do you try and cool the sample or just let it naturally come down to room temp? Is time a factor?

I cool it down but dipping it out of the vessel in a little metal saucepan which I can then set in cold water. It's not so much that time is of the essence in getting an accurate reading as it is in getting the pH measurement out of the way so you can move on to the other things you need to be doing.

At what stage(s) of the mash are PH readings taken.

That's really up to you. Certainly at dough in then every few minutes after that until the pH stops changing. This may take 20 minutes or longer. In addition to the mash readings I take them at the conclusion of every decoction, going in to the kettle and in the fermenter. Then in the fermenter until the pH stops droppin (once a day for this) and then in the finished beer. That's a lot and you may not wish to do so many readings but each of those readings is like a milepost at which you can compare to the results you obtained at that point in other brews - the same style or not.

The initial PH (from water to water with grain at a temp) will change until it gets to a stable level, right?

Unless you want to keep track of how your water varies over time it is not necessary to know the water pH.

When controlling mash pH by mineral addition, the mash pH will lower over time. When controlling with sauermalz it will increase. In either case you will want to take measurements until the reading is stable. This is not to be confused with the time it takes the meter to stabilize in an individual reading. That may be a minute. The changes I am talking about here occur over 20 minutes or more.
 
AJ, I think that Kai conducted some experiments and found that the mash pH was fairly stable within 15 minutes.

I expect that a lion's share of the pH change will occur by 5 minutes and the remaining change will diminish with time asymptotically. I think that an early sample after 5 minutes and then a sample after 15 minutes should be sufficient.

I agree that taking a small sample and placing it in a small container that can be externally cooled is the best way to bring the sample to room temp. I use a shot glass, but metal transmits heat better than glass. If you pre-cool the shot glass, you have the advantage of all that thermal mass to help with the sample cooling. Just a thought.
 
When controlling mash pH by mineral addition, the mash pH will lower over time. When controlling with sauermalz it will increase. In either case you will want to take measurements until the reading is stable. This is not to be confused with the time it takes the meter to stabilize in an individual reading. That may be a minute. The changes I am talking about here occur over 20 minutes or more.

I'm a little confused here I thought sauermalz would lower pH, and that you would use it to control pH in lighter color beers where you didn't want to add more minerals.
 
I've found that the pH does level off pretty quickly when relying on minerals to set pH. I've also found a slight decrease after each decoction. Conversely, with sauermalz it seems to take longer and there is a slight increase with each returned decoction.

When using sauermalz the acid from the surface is quickly dissolved and the pH plummets. You look at the first reading and say "Omigosh - I overshot!" but after a few minutes as the acid gets into the grain and the grain components dissolve things come to equilibrium and the pH levels off at a more reasonable level. So with sauemalz at least it is important not to panic and reach for the bicarb (for your stomach or the mash) but wait a while to see if pH is going where you want it to.
 
OK thanks, I understand that. I guess I should have re read your post as you were talking about the time it takes the reading to stabilize.
 
Do you try and modify at fermentation or is this just for record?

The main reason I do this is because a pH drop over the course of he first few hours is an early clue that the fermentation is going well. You'll see this before you see any foam or detect any gas evolution. No, I have never made tried to make an adjustment. If you don't see the pH drop, then you might as well accept that the beer is not going to work out. If there's no drop it means (given that you have oxygenated properly) that there is a problem with the yeast. Beers I have "saved" by pitching more yeast have wound up as dumpers.
 
The main reason I do this is because a pH drop over the course of he first few hours is an early clue that the fermentation is going well. You'll see this before you see any foam or detect any gas evolution.

Will different beer styles (light, dark, Lager, Ale) have different PH profiles as they move into fermentation or do they all progress about the same?
 
I cool it down but dipping it out of the vessel in a little metal saucepan which I can then set in cold water. It's not so much that time is of the essence in getting an accurate reading as it is in getting the pH measurement out of the way so you can move on to the other things you need to be doing.

I agree that taking a small sample and placing it in a small container that can be externally cooled is the best way to bring the sample to room temp. I use a shot glass, but metal transmits heat better than glass. If you pre-cool the shot glass, you have the advantage of all that thermal mass to help with the sample cooling.

I have some metal measuring cups that might work just right to scoop a small sample and sit onto a cool water bath. Not too extravagant but it should do the job. Thanks!
 
You have a hard water, it´s a good water for dark beers (Brown, Porter, Stout). Control your pH´s mash.I assume that you know that it has to be between 5.2 - 5.5.
 
I live on the Texas Gulf coast and have been a brewer for 20 years. I never had a problem with my beers of any style until making the move to all grain. It was then that I ran into the problems with my local water. High residual alkalinity made brewing lighter style beers nearly impossible. I tried to work around the local water chemistry but nothing seemed to help. So I started using distilled water and built my own water depending on what style I was brewing. Using the water calculator here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/ I simply start with the Source minerals at zero and add in minerals and salts to match whatever water chemistry I set under the target profile.

On a side note, an aquaintance who is opeing a microbrewery locally, is using the local water and only filtering it for organics. He is formulating his recipes to work around the characteristics that make the local water lousy for brewing. His beers are not bad and are popular with the locals, he has a large prochial following. That said, I taste the same flavors in his wheat beer, and pale ales that I encountered in mine. The hops had a very harsh edge in the finish, and there was a bit more astringency than I liked. Since building my own waters, I have been able to make beers more to my liking. Yes, it added about $10 to the cost of my beer, purchasing distilled water but is worth it.
 
Will different beer styles (light, dark, Lager, Ale) have different PH profiles as they move into fermentation or do they all progress about the same?

Ales tend to drop more. I believe this is simply because at the warmer fermentation temperature they are more metabolically active and produce more organic acids.
 
Yes, it added about $10 to the cost of my beer, purchasing distilled water but is worth it

Are there changes in brewing practices that can utilize existing water profiles to get the desired brew profiles without starting with distilled water.

For a home brewer to be adding this much cost to a batch of beer is a matter personal choice, I would not think this could be an option for a commercial entity. I understand that some breweries will stick to certain styles based on their water profile and I imagine an answer to this could get very involved.


From ajdelange
Do soft water breweries add salts? Sometimes yes and sometimes no. In the traditional brews made at a particular location the general answer is "No". They learned to make the beer they could with the water they had. The water chemistry we take for granted today was not so widely understood in those days. Soft water generally makes better beer so that anyone who experimented with adding minerals to an available soft water supply would soon discover that this was not a great idea.

With the help and direction I have gotten here I have started to play with different spreadsheets and calculations to get a desired calculated mash PH and mineral profile. If I were to try to modify my process to utilize what I have instead of making additions - What would/ could I do? I am in a different situation than KPatton as I have 'soft' water and I know that I am asking questions that are (far) above my brewing needs but I am interested to know.
 
Brewers should note that water hardness is less an issue of concern. Its alkalinity that should be the primary concern. Hardness follows that.

But as AJ mentions, softer water generally makes a more pleasing taste than hard water. There is a limit to softness though. We now know that better beer is made with calcium content in the 40 to 50 ppm range which is termed Moderately Hard.
 
Are there changes in brewing practices that can utilize existing water profiles to get the desired brew profiles without starting with distilled water.

Absolutely. You give me a good lab report on a source water and a good ion profile for the desired brewing water and I can come up with additions that will give a darn close match. But the additions will have to include RO water if any ion in the target is at a lower level than it is in the source (exception: calcium, magnesium and bicarbonate can be removed by other techniques but then you need a new analysis to determine how effective those techniques were - dilution with RO is much simpler) and carbon dioxide if any adjustment in alkalinity level is desired. So now you have water identical to what the brewers of Helles in Munich had. Do you know how they treated it if at all? IOW it's not enough to reproduce the water of the city in which the beer was invented, you also must know how to use it. In most cases with a carbonaceous water the first step in brewing is to decarbonate it. There is little point in increasing alkalinity (messing with CO2 sparging) only to turn around and have to undo it (decarbonation by boiling or lime treatment).

I mentioned "good" reports and good profiles. There are lots of bad reports out there and even more bad profiles. Bad here means that the charges on the cations and anions don't balance. In a water report on a particular sample (such as a Wards report) lab errors result in small imbalances which can be ignored. More troublesome in this regard are municipal suppliers reports in which you are almost never given the results of an individual report but rather the averaged (over weeks, months or years) values. Average values do not necessarily balance - in fact they probably don't. The widely published profiles are, in general, atrocious in this regard.

To figure all this out there are, of course, spreadsheets which perform the intricate bookkeeping and calculations required. Most completely ignore the question of balance and if fed an unbalanced profile result in something that can send you off into left field. The new Bru'n water spreadsheet does calculate the balance in the report you enter and in addition has a library of balanced target profiles.

After 20 years of fiddling with designing water I have decided/discovered that it is, in general, too much trouble though still fun to play with. A simpler approach is to start with low ion water and add what you want skipping bicarbonate/carbonate except in cases where mash pH is demonstrably too low as determined by accurate (no pH test strips) measurement.

For a home brewer to be adding this much cost to a batch of beer is a matter personal choice, I would not think this could be an option for a commercial entity. I understand that some breweries will stick to certain styles based on their water profile and I imagine an answer to this could get very involved.

It absolutely is an option and cagy commercial brewers use it. The economies of scale reduce the operating cost of producing a gallon of RO water to pennies. There are, of course, capital costs but these would be modest compared to, say, the cost of obtaining enough kegs to support off premises draft sales.





With the help and direction I have gotten here I have started to play with different spreadsheets and calculations to get a desired calculated mash PH and mineral profile. If I were to try to modify my process to utilize what I have instead of making additions - What would/ could I do? I am in a different situation than KPatton as I have 'soft' water and I know that I am asking questions that are (far) above my brewing needs but I am interested to know.

The obvious answer is to stick to Bohemian pilsners but I'd say be bold - try an IPA with soft water and a stout and .... You may be pleasantly surprised by the results. It probably really makes more sense to start with the Primer guidelines and reduce salt additions as you brew different batches of the same beer. IOW, a Burton style ale would initially be done with extra gypsum and some calcium chloride and the result would be a beer that nominally resembles a traditional Burton ale (if you taste the stuff that is exported these days you know that it's not brewed with water as gypseous as the traditional). If you brew it with softer water it will be mellower, sweeter, smoother and probably considered better by most drinkers but you might not like it and you might get dinged in a competition for not cleaving to the style guidelines.

As for the process proper i.e. things like differing fermentation temperature, different mashing temperature etc. - no, there is nothing you can do there to make a soft water Burton Ale come out like a traditional Burton Ale. One thing that may be new to you is the use of acid or acid malt to set mash pH. This is critically important. Purchase and use of a pH meter is a very important part of all this.

Given what I said about soft water and Martin's comment in #36 I guess I should point out that when I advocate starting with "soft" water I mean soft (DI, RO) water. But the guidelines in the Primer advocate adding some calcium chloride to this soft water. I suspect the chloride of being of as much benefit through organoleptic taste enhancement as the calcium is through improved yeast performance, break formation.... That said I'll note that AFAIK, Pilsner Urquell and Budvar are brewed with very soft (but not RO/DI soft) water. I supplement my RO water with CaCl2 when I brew Boh. Pils and, as I have just found out that I am using anhydrous calcium chloride (having assumed for years that it was the dihydrate) I am using more than I intended. The beer is good, though.
 
I am not asking if you can take soft or hard water and match the profile from some region. I'm asking - for a given water are there brew process alterations that would allow you to get the proper PH in the mash without additions? The answer may be - NO- but that's the question.
If yes, something simple like - for a PH that's 5.45 instead of the brewers desired 5.38 he/she may do a longer or shorter mash at higher or lower temps with more or less steps. This is really just a general PH brew science question. I suspect the answer may be that there are subtle things that can be done but for the heavy lifting additions are required. It's the subtleties that get you!
 
In carbonaceous water which contains calcium (water with temporary hardness) boiling removes both hardness and alkalinity down to about 1 mEq/L. Other than that there is no process modification that has much effect. Each decoction may drop the mash pH a bit if no sauermalz is used.
 
I received my water Analysis from Ward Labs for my water. I been playing with Bru'n Water and EZ water spreadsheet, but still confussed. I am looking for help for Pale ales and IPAs. My water is
PH 7.9,
Na 8
CA 18
Mg 2
Toal Harrdness, (CaCO3) 53
Nitrate, NO3 0.9
Bicabonate 53
Sulfate (SO4) 9
Chioride 8
Bicarbonate 53
Total Akalinity 44

Any help would greatly be apreaciated for any additivates that i would need. The only thing I do now is is run my water through a Activated carbon to remove chlorine.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top