Bodine motor for grain mill? cheap

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Copbrew133

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Hi, new to the site. I found this Bodine motor on Ebay today as I am looking to motorize the Barley Crusher. Bodine has the motor listed new for over $400. The guy on Ebay has like 6 or 7 left for $50 + $20 for shipping. Anyone use this? or one like it. I went ahead and bought one. For the price I figured what the heck. Heres the specs and link. I think the RPM and Torque will be sufficient. Any comments are greatly appreciated. Hope this helps somebody like me who looked for days to find a motor in stock to suit the purpose.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bodine-Pace...470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6f866786

Specifications
Model Number 2262
Category Three Phase, Inverter Duty, Non-Synchronous, Parallel Shaft Gearmotor
Speed (rpm) 170
Torque (lb-in) 115
Motor Output Power (hp) 3/8
Voltage (AC) 230
Current (amps) 1.9
Rated Frequency (Hz) 60
Gear Ratio 10
Variable Speed (rpm) 18-229
Frequency Range (Hz) 10-90
Torque at 10Hz 92
Torque at 60Hz 115
Torque at Max Hz 115
Length XH (inches) 9.58
Weight (lbs) 16.5
Connection Diagram Pacesetter 230VAC
Motor Type 42R6BFPP-F2
 
Good point, I honestly have been looking online for a week and motors all started looking the same. When I saw this and the price it should have been a giveaway, but it didn't register in me melon. Got too focused on torque and rpm. Ill see if my uncle who has a farm needs a motor, think he runs some 3 phase out there, unless you have a suggestion on how to make it work?

Thanks for catching that.
 
You can run a 3 phase on single phase, but you would either need a phase converter, or spin it by hand when you start it, which is dangerous.
 
Definitely not spinning by hand, however in looking at the phase converters, does the output hp of the motor which is 3/8 hp have to match the converter exactly or can the hp rating for the converter exceed that of the motor?

May be time for my electrician buddy to mysteriously be given a case of beer.
 
Thank you for the info, if nothing else I am learning something. My homebrewing has become something I will continue, God willing, for a long time so I want to buy quality equipment preferably once and have it last. The reading I did showed Bodine builds a quality motor so even if I have to spend a little extra to get a converter and a little effort to set it up it will be worth it to have something that lasts. Would have been easier with a single phase motor, but alot of the posts I read regarding poeple having gotten them cheap were fairly old. Seems they were rather difficult to find now and they have apparently gone up in price.

Thank you.
 
Problem solved, I hope, picked up a TECO converter for a good price and in the right spec range. Once hooked up and running I'll post a pic. Thanks again.
 
Did that work out for you? I can't seem to find a suitable motor at a good price so that looks interesting if it works.
 
Not quite there yet. Got the motor in today, heavy 16 lbs.. Teco fm100 phase converter should be in this coming week. A buddy I work with is a very good electrician so he's gonna help me out in regards to wiring. As you can tell by previous posts I am not an electrician, carpentry no problem, electric, not so much. He says it wont be a problem. I got the motor for 50 plus 20. Phase converter was 50 plus like 13 for shipping plus the cost of the barley crusher, 109.95 on sale at morebeer.com. The cart I'll build is scrap so free. I promise as soon as I get things set up I'll post pics and anything that helps anybody else out.
 
Hi,

thanks for this info!
I was searching one engine for my bc mill ad this seems just perfect at an affordable price. Found an used phase converter as well.
How do you connect the engine to the mill? Is there a fittings available somewhere?

I've seen the lovejoy couplings on ebay. Bc side should be close to 3/8", but what about the bodine side? 1/2"?

lovejoy is the one here used

39254.jpg


In another similar thread I've found this suggested from the mcmastercarr website:

6408K73 - Buna-n Spider For 1-23/64" Outside Diameter, Flexible Spider Shaft Coupling Hub

6408K123 - Flexible Spider Shaft Coupling Hub, 3/8" Bore, 1-23/64" Od, without Keyway

6408K712 - Flexible Spider Shaft Coupling Hub, 1/2" Bore, 1-23/64" Od, with Keyway

thanks again

gm
 
The shaft on the bodine originally posted is 3/4 diam. With a 3/16diam. key when I got it the other day. I sent an email today to Lovejoy for suggestions on couplers and there item numbers for them. The one I keep seeing for the 3/4 diameter has three "jaws" on it where as the 3/8" diam. One has two from all the images Im seeing, just don't know if they work together or what. Got the motot and Teco FM100 phase converter so just need to get some of small items and begin building. If anyone knows the specifics on the lovejoys please let me know.
 
The shaft on the bodine originally posted is 3/4 diam. With a 3/16diam. key when I got it the other day. I sent an email today to Lovejoy for suggestions on couplers and there item numbers for them. The one I keep seeing for the 3/4 diameter has three "jaws" on it where as the 3/8" diam. One has two from all the images Im seeing, just don't know if they work together or what. Got the motot and Teco FM100 phase converter so just need to get some of small items and begin building. If anyone knows the specifics on the lovejoys please let me know.


So, no way the 1/2 coupling side will fit to the bodine shaft. Waiting for your update...
 
No, I measured the diam of the shaft and its 3/4 on the model 42r-f motor. Half wont do it. Going to a local place tomorrow if I get time to try to get the proper lovejoys. Ill update again tomorrow night with the part numbers is successful.
 
No, I measured the diam of the shaft and its 3/4 on the model 42r-f motor. Half wont do it. Going to a local place tomorrow if I get time to try to get the proper lovejoys. Ill update again tomorrow night with the part numbers is successful.

Thanks!
I was lucky enough to find a seller open to stop the shipment of the wrong bought items, waiting for my right size to change the order.
 
Ok, I went and picked up the Lovejoy couplers this morning from Applied Industrial Technologies here in the Lakeland area Their website if you need it is www.applied.com. They were extremely helpful and ordered the parts for me yesterday, called me at 9 am to pick up. Both are L070 series. They have two jaws or teeth each so they mesh together. The 3/8"(.375) bore diameter also has a keyway on it (1/8 x 1/16). I was told this will work on the 3/8" shaft which does not have a keyway because the set screw on the coupler will go through the wall of the Lovejoy and contact the shaft. I was thinking of getting a small piece of key metal anyway and putting it on the flat spot of the Barley Crusher shaft, but probably not necessary. The numbers on there website for it are: L070X3/8HUB1/8 (68514448829)
Item#: 4273081 Lovejoy L Type Finished Bore Jaw Coupling Hub
Size 070 L Type Coupling Hub; 3/8 in Bore; 1/8 X 1/16 Keyway
Weight: 0.25 lbs
Catalog Order Number: MA4273081 Catalog Page: 632
FROM LOVEJOY PDF: LOVEJOY 3/8 MODEL NUMBER 48829

I also got the white elastomeric spider gear rated to I believe 114in.lbs. torque. Doubt Ill need it, but do it right the first time right. The Applied website numbers for this are: Lovjoy L070HYT SOX Elastomeric coupling.

The 3/4"(.750) diameter one also has two locking jaws on it. The Applied.com numbers on it are:L070X3/4HUB3/16 (68514410426)
Item#: 4271417 Lovejoy L Type Finished Bore Jaw Coupling Hub
Size 070 L Type Coupling Hub; 3/4 in Bore; 3/16 X 3/32 Keyway
Weight: 0.194 lbs
Catalog Order Number: MA4271417 Catalog Page: 632
FROM LOVEJOY PDF: MODEL NUMBER 10426


These cost about $20 total, of course with local pickup and no shipping fees. They have several locations so check online with them, unless you had some other place in mind.

I also picked up 12' of SO round 10 gage wire and a new plug for my dryer receptacle which I wired into a 12 foot 220v extension cord to take advantage of the placement of my dryer receptacle being so close to my brewing area. I am going to wire the 220 into the Teco Fm100 phase converter and then get the motor wired over the next couple of days as well as try to get the stand built and get everything mounted and the shaft heighths leveled out. If the honeydo list doesn't get in the way.

Hope this helped. Good luck, I know I need it.
 
Thanks a lot for your very precious help!

Now I forward this infos to the ebay seller and will see what's going on with him.

Good luck also to your successful build!
 
Got the cart built, no it is not beautifully welded SS, but it was scrap white wood I already had, so it was free, minus the casters. The phase converter and motor are wired and programmed, pretty simple actually, and the motor runs perfectly. The converter allows forward and backward control at the touch of a button as well as digitally being able to control the speed of the motor. Really pretty cool the way the thing works. The Lovejoy couplers are attached to their respective shafts. I am waiting for the L bracket for the motor to arrive, buttoning up the connections, and securing the wiring in a better way. Once the motor bracket is here Ill have the final height of its shaft so I can then raise the Barley Crusher up to match and attach. Here's a couple of pics to this point:

mill1 008.jpg


mill1 010.jpg
 
Update......date line: 2 Sierra Nevada Torpedo's in: Got the wiring buttoned up, the bracket attached tonight and the terminal box cover for the exterior motor term. box. put on. Wiring is done, sound the trumpets! I attached a couple more photos as an update sort of. As this project approaches completion my words of advice would be this. If yuou can find a single phase motor in the right price and spec range, go for it. It is more streamlined and simple in that you connect to regular old 110v power and no phase converter is needed. However if you can't find one for a reasonable price or you run across the components to do a three phase motor like this for a really good price go for it! I am by no means an electrician, but it was really simple. The big PITA was waiting for parts to get here. Ill make one more post when completed. If I can help anyone else out with this method for a grain mill or if anyone has any feedback please let me know. Thanks to all the guys who made videos showing their mills and building techniques. They really served as inspiration to do this.

mill21012.jpg


MILL2 009.jpg
 
I found it on Ebay a few weeks ago for 50 bucks. It controls the speed of the motor by controlling the hertz from 0 to 60hz. motors rated at 60 which puts it at 177 rpm.
 
Well, it is finished. I got all pieces together and it works. It works well. I made a small wooden box to mount the mill onto which brought it to perfect height for the shafts to mesh. I ran 2 old pounds of two row through it earlier that I had on hand and WOW it went through it like it wasnt in the hopper. The motor is a beast. Heres a couple of photos of my finished mill.

Cheers

mill complete 007.jpg


mill complete 002.jpg


mill complete 003.jpg
 
I found it on Ebay a few weeks ago for 50 bucks. It controls the speed of the motor by controlling the hertz from 0 to 60hz. motors rated at 60 which puts it at 177 rpm.

OMG HBT Wins AGAIN!

I just bought the same motor from the same guy and freaked out when I saw the 3phase. I asked if I could cancel and HE forwarded ME this link! Brilliant, I'm getting all the same parts.

Thanks!!

BTW, where did you get your L bracket?
 
Cool, It isn't a difficult project......especially if I wired it. Glad the thread helped out. The L bracket was like 20 bucks. The motor came with the external terminal box but no lid so I ordered another one, another 20. It want necessary but no exposed wires and it looks cleaner and is probably safer. The link for the L bracket from where I got it is:

http://www.bodinedirect.com/product.sc?productId=137

Hope that helps. Post some pics when you get her done.
 
Hi Cop!

Can you please detail me how did you wire the bodine to the converter?


thanks


gm
 
I ran the two hot wires from my 220 dryer receptacle through the extension cord I made to L1 & L2 on the phase converter. The ground or neutral goes to the ground to the left of the L terminals. If you have four wires from your power cord the thirdhot can go to L3. The green ground from the motor goes to the ground terminal in the phase converter on the T side. The other three wires from the motor go to T1, T2, and T3. Here's a link for the PDF file containing the manual for the Teco fm 100. The wiring diagram is on pg. 12, lower portion


http://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/FM100 Maintenance & Operations Manual.pdf

Hope it helps
 
Thanks a lot!

I like also your nice and clean build, as soon as I receive the couplings I'll do my job as well!
 
A short update, thanks to your help the engine is working, wired to the converter.

Photo%20Mar%2005%2C%206%2021%2027%20PM.jpg


It's so silent! I even didn't know it was running...

Found a wooden case in the garage that should perfectly adapt to the motorized mill build. Since now it's full of things, I have just to convert it night time, when my wife is sleeping... :tank:
 
This weekend I had enough free time to finish the build, some pics to show what I did

Photo%20Mar%2025%2C%204%2056%2050%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Mar%2025%2C%204%2057%2004%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Mar%2025%2C%204%2057%2020%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Mar%2025%2C%204%2057%2042%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Mar%2025%2C%204%2058%2002%20PM.jpg


Probably in the next future I'll make some fine tuning, but first I have to use it a few times.

Thanks a lot to copbrew for his great help, this couldn't be done without him!!!


cheers


g_m
 
Really looks great, let me know how the crush goes. I adjusted mine down to .035 on the gap setting and wet milled the second time I used it. That along with batch sparging for the first time got my efficiency up 11%. Good luck.
 
The controllers you guys have are known as variable frequency drives or
vfd's. They will take your single phase and convert it to three phase, and give you variable speed control to boot. It varies the speed by varying the frequency (Hz). Your motor is great because it is made as inverter duty and variable speed. You are right that your motor runs at 170 rpm at the rated frequency of 60hz. But look at the spec sheet and that motor will run from 18 to 229 rpms at a frequency range of 10 to 90 Hz. Your controllers are also programmable, meaning you can set the upper frequency range above 60. If you set the upper frequency range to 90, your motor rpm will then be able to go up to 229 rpm's. Just letting you know in case you need the extra rpm's.
 
Thanks, I saw something like that on the motor info, and the VFD can be programmed to run higher, but I haven't needed to run higher rpm's due to getting a really nice crush as is. I appreciate the heads up though.
 
You guys made my day. Already had a bodine, and was trying to figure out the couplings. The links in this thread right to the l bracket and applied.com had everything I needed. Cheers!
 
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