Electric HERMS Design

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Sizz

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I'm still in the process of gathering all of the components for a HERMS. I figure this is a good time to get advice on the design. This will be a single tier system, using insulated sanke kegs, 5500W elements, 2 pumps, and a BCS-460 controller. The following diagram illustrates the mash configuration. The pumps will have to be rerouted for sparging.

HERMS_Design.jpg


I decided to use a counterflow plate heat exchanger and a small RIMS style heater instead of the traditional copper coil in the HLT for two reasons. Immersion chillers are notoriously inefficient unless you have a large amount of water movement. I also didn't like having to heat gallons of HLT water to step up mash temps.

With this design, there is also a possibility of eliminating the HLT entirely and using the HEX as a tankless heater. My initial calculations look promising, ~28 minutes to increase the temp of 5 gallons by 120F, ideally. I need to read up on some RIMS threads and see if they do this.

The only concerns I have about this design is having grain stuck in the plate hex. I'll be using a duda-diesel plate heat exchanger which has good flow and I'm hoping enough space between plates to allow any grains to pass through. I plan on testing this soon by adding some crushed grain through the plate HEX and weighing the grain before and after to see if any got stuck.
 
The internal lines for flowing your wort through even the largest plate chiller are relatively small. I am betting that it will get clogged if you run raw wort through the chiller. I recommend that you either purchase or DIY a Hop Stopper like the one pictured below:

web%20photo.jpg


You can purchase one from Welcome to Innovative Homebrew Solutions! for about $60. You could make your own and follow this video by Bobby M:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypBIcRE2cV8]YouTube - DIY Kettle Hop Filter - Brewing with Bobby M[/ame]
 
I I need to read up on some RIMS threads and see if they do this.

I use a RIMS tube with a traditional HLT. I use a 5500W element at 120 V (So, about 1300W effectively) and get about 1 degree per minute. With your design, you may could use a larger high density element if if doesn't come into contact with the wort.

PLate chillers clog fairly easily.
 
I would definitely be worried about the plate chiller getting clogged. I just did my first brew using my HERMS system and the amount of crud running through the hoses before the grain bed was set was significant.

I don't know if the running through the plate chiller is really necessary. I used a 20 foot 1/4" ID copper coil in a 2 gallon cooler at got a rise of 1.1875 degrees per minute. This was with 3.5 gallons of water in 11.5 pounds of grain with a 1500W heater element. Agitation was achieved with a small aquarium air pump with an air stone inside the HEX.
 
Subscribed. What is the plan for your RIMS? I'm doing two heat exchangers instead of installing a heater in my HLT, but I have igloo coolers.
 
After pricing out stainless steel fittings and quick disconnects, I decided to try RIMS initially and look into switching to HERMS later. This will allow me to have a majority of permanent barb fittings ($2 on ebay) and cut the number of $30 disconnects down to 3. I ordered all of the parts, totaling about $900. That includes the BCS-460 controller, thermistors, pumps, heater elements, SSRs, silicon tubing, RIMS heater pipe/elbows and all fittings & valves. I never realized how much going to all stainless would cost. The stainless fittings, valves, and the RIMS heater parts totaled $300 alone.

The RIMS heater will be a similar to the one pictured in this post.

Priority #1 is testing the RIMS heater as a tankless heater for sparging. If it works, which my initial calculations show it will, I'm ditching the HLT entirely. I'll start an official "Another RIMS build" thread once I start assembly.
 
i've been toying with the HEX instead of a coppercoil as well. Would a false bottom in the MT filter enough fines out to not clog the HEX?
 
i've been toying with the HEX instead of a coppercoil as well. Would a false bottom in the MT filter enough fines out to not clog the HEX?

I have one of the false bottoms from Northern Brewer in my MT and get a lot of crud flowing through my HERMS when I first start recirculating. I wouldn't risk running it through a plate chiller unless you had some way to recirculate around it before it ran clear.
 
After pricing out stainless steel fittings and quick disconnects, I decided to try RIMS initially and look into switching to HERMS later. This will allow me to have a majority of permanent barb fittings ($2 on ebay) and cut the number of $30 disconnects down to 3. I ordered all of the parts, totaling about $900. That includes the BCS-460 controller, thermistors, pumps, heater elements, SSRs, silicon tubing, RIMS heater pipe/elbows and all fittings & valves. I never realized how much going to all stainless would cost. The stainless fittings, valves, and the RIMS heater parts totaled $300 alone.

The RIMS heater will be a similar to the one pictured in this post.

Priority #1 is testing the RIMS heater as a tankless heater for sparging. If it works, which my initial calculations show it will, I'm ditching the HLT entirely. I'll start an official "Another RIMS build" thread once I start assembly.

Thats way too much money. I built mine for under $375 and that was with 2" 304 Stainless Steel pipe. Look at this thread.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/

RIMS1.jpg


RIMS2.jpg


RIMS3.jpg


RIMS4.jpg
 
Thats way too much money. I built mine for under $375 and that was with 2" 304 Stainless Steel pipe. Look at this thread

I don't see how you think I paid too much after looking at your chart. I did a lot of research for the best prices. Ebay generally wins if you can find the item. :rockin:

Pump was $109 shipped. 1/2" SS valves $9.50. SSR's $15. I think you misunderstood what I said. All stainless parts including the quick disconnects ($30 each x3), 4 x valves, 10 barbs, and the RIMS heater parts all totaled $300. The 1-1/2" RIMS pipe/fittings was $90 total. The only thing more expensive is the BCS controller. Anyway, I'll start a build thread and put all of my parts/prices/vendors up soon.
 
I don't see how you think I paid too much after looking at your chart. I did a lot of research for the best prices. Ebay generally wins if you can find the item. :rockin:

Pump was $109 shipped. 1/2" SS valves $9.50. SSR's $15. I think you misunderstood what I said. All stainless parts including the quick disconnects ($30 each x3), 4 x valves, 10 barbs, and the RIMS heater parts all totaled $300. The 1-1/2" RIMS pipe/fittings was $90 total. The only thing more expensive is the BCS controller. Anyway, I'll start a build thread and put all of my parts/prices/vendors up soon.

Ok, my RIM Heater is hard plumbed into my brew stand so I don't have all the QD's and valves you have. In total I spent $375 on the RIM Heater including the Pump, PID and SSR if you total up everything from my list.
 
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