Just used my Bayou Classic SP10!

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boneshb

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Hey all,
So I just used my Bayou Classic SP10 for the first time, well, the second time. The first time I got high burning the paint off of it. Anyway, I was able to boil 6 gallons in 18mins 58seconds (I timed it on my phone).
Its great for heating, just lacks a control of sorts, its on or its off, but i guess that can be worked around, especially after I got it for $30 (I may or may not have a hook up)
 
A friend of mine got one of those and we have brewed with it a few times and it seems to work well. His will control the burner just fine... not sure what sort of problem you might be having there.

My hurricane burner just arrived today and it looks like this burner might have a more difficult time controlling the level of heat, but we'll see.
 
I am able to control the flame better now, not sure why I didn't adjust the air intake before, but between that and the gas flow I think I got it down. Let us know how the hurricane works for ya
 
I fired up the hurricane for a bit earlier just to burn a little of the paint off. It's really quiet. Since it's not making a lot of noise like my other high pressure burner, it makes me THINK that it's not putting out as much heat, but I'm sure it is with the size of the thing.. it's a monster... I hope to brew with it either Sunday or Monday...
 
I have an SQ14 because of the bigger stand. However, I think it's the same burner as the SP10. I've found that once it's dialed in it puts out pretty good heat and doesn't really eat propane too badly. Overall, I'm happy with the choice.
 
I've done 2 brews on the SP10 and this burner has surpassed my low expectations (how much can you expect for $35, right?). The hose that came with my burner has a valve on it to control the flame easily. The burner boils 7 gallons easily and doesn't eat propane. I have run the burner 4 times (burned off paint, boiloff test, 2 brew days) and I still have a little propane in the tank (and it's a blue rhino tank that are notorious for not being filled all the way).

I highly recommend this burner for those of us that don't have high levels of disposable income.
 
I got the larger version of that burner (kab4) and it's a pig. Good flame control but it can eat some propane. It uses less than the cone shaped burner it replaced, though, because the heat is more evenly spread with more but shorter flames. It's alo quieter, but very heavy. I think the burner on the sp10 is probably ideal unless you do really big batches.
 
I have just loved this burner so far. It sounds like a jet engine in the distance, but what is a little noise? I was able to dial the gas in and now cant complain at all about it. The paint is mostly burned off the burner now and the smell is all gone.
 
I just got mine and was about to fire it up when I saw that there is no air control shutter. The instructions seem to indicate that this part is very important. Does anyone know if it's safe to use without the shutter??
 
I had the SP10 and did three batches on it. I left it ourside in the rain and it got rusty. Not that the rust bothered me or affected the operation. But I just stepped up to keggles and wanted to upgrade to a taller burner (SP50 is identical, but longer legs). So I sold it on CL for $30, along with some other stuff to fund the purchase of the SP50.
 
Adjust the air shutter closed until flame tips turn yellow, then open until yellow is almost gone from tips, this is the most heat output the burner will do. The jet engine sound is from too much air, you are just wasting propane at that point by blowing the heat out and away from the keg bottom instead of staying under and heating.
 
I just got mine and was about to fire it up when I saw that there is no air control shutter. The instructions seem to indicate that this part is very important. Does anyone know if it's safe to use without the shutter??

Short answer: nope. You probably won't even have much luck getting it lit, and if you do, the flames will burn so rich you'll be wasting propane like crazy. Sorry, but you'll have to grab an air shutter for it to make it properly efficient.

In response to other above posts, Bayou Classic basically makes 3 models of *burners*: BG-10, BG-12, BG-14. Some are available in low pressure (natural gas and plumbed/rural propane) and high pressure (propane tank) configurations, but as far as I know, they are all available at high pressure.

The stand + burner pairings are: SP10 & BG-10, SQ14 & BG-12, KAB4 (or KAB6) & BG-14. BG-14 is also referred to as hurricane or banjo burner. Don't quote me on it but I think the hurricane is the low pressure version.
 
Going to resurrect this old thread:

So, I'm not really happy with this burner. But it may be because of me and my method rather than the burner.

I've done two boils with this SP10. I use a 5 gallon brew pot for most of my extract batches and needed the propane burner because my stove top is electric and will not get a rolling boil on anything over 2 gallons.....especially heavy gravity wort.

Well the SP10 boils the crap out of my extract batches.

I do 2 1/2 gallon boils on this thing and I never get past the hot break. It always seems like it is going to boil over and I'm adding ice cubes for the entire boil. And when you try to reduce the regulator, the burner goes out. So there's no real way to turn the flame down much. So is it the amount I'm boiling?

Maybe I need to increase the water volume up to 3 to 3 1/2 gallons? Does anyone think that would make a difference?
 
That is odd, I have been using the SP10 for a year. I am able to dial down the flame with the regulator without it going off. Have you adjusted the oxygen flow on it at all?
 
That is odd, I have been using the SP10 for a year. I am able to dial down the flame with the regulator without it going off. Have you adjusted the oxygen flow on it at all?

Yes, no matter which way I dial it (smaller hole/bigger hole) If I turn the regulator down too much it will peter out. The way it works now is that I'm throwing in ice cubes every couple of minutes to avoid a boil over. Very frustrating. So I'm figuring I'm making some mistake.
 
I can only say from my experience, that a thinner wort boils over less the a high gravity one. You are killing your self using ice cubes, and lowering the temp too much to get to a controllable hot break. If I were you, I would get a spray bottle and see how fast you can get through hot break so you can walk away from it. Three days ago, I used my new turkey fryer/ brew kettle for the first time, and almost blew it by not using enough heat for a controlled boil to get through hot break. The kettle was boiling, but something told me to jack up the heat because the foam didn't look right. I cranked up the heat, ( after 20 or so minutes) and very soon up came the hot break with the hop particles. I turned the heat down a very tint bit, and stirred like crazy for what seemed like 5 minutes. The hop particles were no longer floating, and there was no worry of boil over, so I turned the heat back up, and relaxed. No, I didn't use a spray bottle on this batch, as it was the first time like I mentioned above, I wanted to see how the new pot would act/react when on the verge of boil over.
Sorry for the long post.
 
I can only say from my experience, that a thinner wort boils over less the a high gravity one. You are killing your self using ice cubes, and lowering the temp too much to get to a controllable hot break. If I were you, I would get a spray bottle and see how fast you can get through hot break so you can walk away from it. Three days ago, I used my new turkey fryer/ brew kettle for the first time, and almost blew it by not using enough heat for a controlled boil to get through hot break. The kettle was boiling, but something told me to jack up the heat because the foam didn't look right. I cranked up the heat, ( after 20 or so minutes) and very soon up came the hot break with the hop particles. I turned the heat down a very tint bit, and stirred like crazy for what seemed like 5 minutes. The hop particles were no longer floating, and there was no worry of boil over, so I turned the heat back up, and relaxed. No, I didn't use a spray bottle on this batch, as it was the first time like I mentioned above, I wanted to see how the new pot would act/react when on the verge of boil over.
Sorry for the long post.


I'm a Huge fan of the spay bottle method of preventing boil over, works great!
 
I am able to control the flame better now, not sure why I didn't adjust the air intake before, but between that and the gas flow I think I got it down.

I was going to recommend the air intake... also, try to block any wind, it plays havoc when trying to steep with a low flame.
 
Going to resurrect this old thread:

So, I'm not really happy with this burner. But it may be because of me and my method rather than the burner.

I've done two boils with this SP10. I use a 5 gallon brew pot for most of my extract batches and needed the propane burner because my stove top is electric and will not get a rolling boil on anything over 2 gallons.....especially heavy gravity wort.

Well the SP10 boils the crap out of my extract batches.

I do 2 1/2 gallon boils on this thing and I never get past the hot break. It always seems like it is going to boil over and I'm adding ice cubes for the entire boil. And when you try to reduce the regulator, the burner goes out. So there's no real way to turn the flame down much. So is it the amount I'm boiling?

Maybe I need to increase the water volume up to 3 to 3 1/2 gallons? Does anyone think that would make a difference?

If you stay way from the wind, you can reduce your air intake and then reduce your gas allowing for a lower flame. It took me a long time, and a lot of sticky patio floors, but once i figured it out, my brew days became a lot less stressful.
 
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