Help me wire this motor

Hey guys, have a motor I'm going to use to run my mill.

It's 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm motor 110v.

As you can see it already has a plug attached to it, but it also has another lead with a black and white wire, I assume this goes to a potentiometer/rheostat or maybe just an on off switch? Is it feasible to short the black and white to get full speed or what do I need to do with those leads? Do you think I can wire in speed controller so I can do direct drive?





Here's a pic of the wiring.

Here's a pic of the wiring. It's hard to tell from pic, but the wire for the plug that would go to the wall has a black and white and then ground of course, the white connects directly to the motor, the black is spliced and connects to the other wire in the picture, the white on the second wire is also wired directly into the motor. So if that's the case it looks like the second lead would have to go to some sort of speed controller/on off switch. Hope that makes sense.




And finally here are the specs on the plate of the motor.

Plate says GE model 5KH47DR439
HP 1/2
RPM 1725
V 115
CY 60
A 7.7
CODE 814M PC
40C AMB CL B


So, could the speed be adjust on this motor? Or is it designed just to run at the rated RPMs and I will have to belt drive my mill to adjust the rpms down to around 300.

I'm no expert, but I believe its is a synchronous motor. That extra lead is for a starting/run capacitor. Difficult to speed control, use step down pulleys.

I know all about electricity as is evident in this thread. In my opinion that motor will not work without water.

Oh I am interested in this thread. I just purchased this motor

http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/me...&Product_Code=TM89MTR5758/C&Category_Code=MTR

and dont know how to wire it up. It came with two capacitors. Not sure what they are for.

So, being that it's already wired the way it is it looks like I don't need a starting capacitor right?

Could I just put a spst switch on the white and black leads and I'd ready to go then?

Where did you get the motor?
Does it run when plugged in, or does it just hum?
It looks like a washing machine or dryer motor.
Most of those types of motors have start windings and run windings, usually both sets of windings need to be energized to start the motor, then power must be cut off to the start windings so they don't burn up.
I'm guessing that the other set of wires are for the start windings that went to a switch or relay.

What happens when you plug it in??

IrregularPulse said:

What happens when you plug it in??

Click to expand...

The damn thing keeps teleporting him back to 1985!

Doc Robinson said:

The damn thing keeps teleporting him back to 1985!

Click to expand...

I'm not laughing because it's funny. I'm laughing because I could have started this thread...... and it's also funny because of anything I ever tried with stuff I don't understand in my life!

I love experimenting with potentially dangerous stuff. Thjis is the way we learn and possibly lose a finger or two.

To the original poster: I am honestly not criticizing your thread. I am simply having flashbacks to some of my most memorable disasters. The most disastrous ones were also the most fun!

ol' rummie said:

Where did you get the motor?
Does it run when plugged in, or does it just hum?
It looks like a washing machine or dryer motor.
Most of those types of motors have start windings and run windings, usually both sets of windings need to be energized to start the motor, then power must be cut off to the start windings so they don't burn up.
I'm guessing that the other set of wires are for the start windings that went to a switch or relay.

Click to expand...

Absolutely, plug it in to see if it knows the words or just hummmmmssss. It shouldn't hurt it briefly. The start/run windings are normally on a centrifugal switch, my money is still on a capacitor. If it just hums then that's most likely what it needs.

Google the motor from the name plate and you will find a schematic, the picture is too blury inside the housing to tell, looks like from the extra wire it has already been repurposed( I am guessing this is from a furnace blower ) for some DIY project prior.Motors like this don't come with plugs for a standard outlet. Just a guess

Its a single phase induction motor and needs a capacitor to start.

The spade terminals on the ends should plug right onto a motor start cap.

Does it have five wires coming out of it.
Light Blue, Orange, White, Black and Yellow ?

If so , it's reversable motor from a washing machine

3 Wires. Black, White and Ground.

Well, I tried googling the model # and came up blank.

How do I know what size motor start cap to buy if that's what it needs?

the_wickster said:

Its a single phase induction motor and needs a capacitor to start.

The spade terminals on the ends should plug right onto a motor start cap.

Click to expand...

Correct. Try a few different sizes of capacitor, but it should be in the 30 micro farad range with a voltage rating of 370Vac or better. Make sure it's an AC cap (as opposed to DC). The motor should start in less than 2 seconds...if not, go bigger (higher capacitance, not voltage....try a 50uF cap).

oh, and don't kill yourself playing with electricity.

i know a little bit about ge motors, and the KH in the model number means it's a split phase motor, probably from a fan or blower. the extra so/sj cord with the insulated female blade terminals connects to an on-off spst switch. it does NOT need a capacitor to operate.

ge motors that use caps have KC in their model numbers.

Plug it in and try it.

Bought a spst switch at lunch today. Will wire it tonight and give it a whirl.

Ricand said:

Absolutely, plug it in to see if it knows the words or just hummmmmssss. It shouldn't hurt it briefly. The start/run windings are normally on a centrifugal switch, my money is still on a capacitor. If it just hums then that's most likely what it needs.

Click to expand...

If it hums you can turn it by hand to see if it starts. If it does, then start capacitor is a good guess. But what value......?

marzsit said:

i know a little bit about ge motors, and the KH in the model number means it's a split phase motor, probably from a fan or blower. the extra so/sj cord with the insulated female blade terminals connects to an on-off spst switch. it does NOT need a capacitor to operate.

ge motors that use caps have KC in their model numbers.

Click to expand...

Hmm.. Marzsit seems to know what he's talking about, looks like I lose my money.

Well, motor works like a champ.

Bought a SPST switch, wired the leads, plugged the motor in and it spun up just fine.

Thanks everyone.

Thought I'd just bump this and show everyone the final product.

Harbor Freight utility cart (24.99)
JSP Malt Mill
1/2 hp motor

Looks fantastic !

Looks good Nick! You bringing it to the BigBrew this weekend to test it out on a couple bags of grain?