Price to build the Brew Magic Brew system!

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vanwolfhausen

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If someone wanted to make a quasi version of the Sabco Brew magic that is currently $5,000 how much(Rough guess) do you think it would cost? Taking in account the person already has the kegs. I really like this system except I would have the HLT on highest level and the Mash and BK on bottom.
 
what about the programable portions. Are there any easy solutions to that part?
I've heard folks are carmelizing sugars across the heating element in the Brew Magic. Can that be corrected with a change in the design?
 
One thing I like about it over other systems is it's a little more basic than some I have seen. I like a K.I.S.S kind of system w/ maybe not ALL the bells and whistles of the Brew-Magic. Here are main things I like and don't like:

1. Being able to control w/ the PIDS
2. Love 2 Tier system w/ one pump.
3. I am not really in love w/ heating w/ elements but, guess you have to w/ PID controls correct?
 
I just stumbled across this thread and a friend of mine and I have been working for doing this for the past couple months. We work for a biotech equipment manufacturer/distributor, and I am a fabricator/welder in the company so we have been able to save a considerable amount in materials/parts/labor/etc. Not to mention at the time we embarked on this adventure we price out the cost of doing the plumbing in copper tube and compression fittings or SS Sanitary triclamps, and we opted with triclamps. If there is still an interest in this I will work up our numbers so far and post them...


-Matt
 
I just stumbled across this thread and a friend of mine and I have been working for doing this for the past couple months. We work for a biotech equipment manufacturer/distributor, and I am a fabricator/welder in the company so we have been able to save a considerable amount in materials/parts/labor/etc. Not to mention at the time we embarked on this adventure we price out the cost of doing the plumbing in copper tube and compression fittings or SS Sanitary triclamps, and we opted with triclamps. If there is still an interest in this I will work up our numbers so far and post them...


-Matt

I will keep watching for the numbers when you get them.
 
I can answer this because that is exactly what I have done with a few enhancements. This is my second iteration and I am adding full automation with a Brewtroller. If you really want to clone the system with triclovers, stainless steel tubing etc. depending on how much of it you DIY I would say about $3000 or at least how much I have into it. I have some pictures of the first iteration if you look in my gallery and if you are interested in the latest iteration go to my website at http://www.blackdogbrewery.us
 
I'd say you'd need to go with 1" triclamps....1/2" & 3/4" stuff is very difficult to find. I think there's benefits to doing it yourself....you can use dedicated pots instead of kegs, and you can do things custom the way you want them, like bottom drains, etc. Cost IS an issue, but it sounds like you've got the skill and resources to offset the price. Also, if you build it yourself, the cost is spread over time vs. a large lump sum (with interest).
 
Also, if you build it yourself, the cost is spread over time vs. a large lump sum (with interest).

That's an interesting analysis. If you buy it now vs building it over a year you have use of it for the entire year, which has some value.

In terms of financing and if you are indifferent between using it now or in a year, the cheapest thing would be to save your money and buy it in a year.

Obviously their is less cash expenditure (if labor has zero value) to building it, but there absolutely are no financing savings to building it.
 
what about the programable portions. Are there any easy solutions to that part?
I've heard folks are carmelizing sugars across the heating element in the Brew Magic. Can that be corrected with a change in the design?

That can happen to any RIMS brewer if the flow is too slow or they get a stuck mash. In either case it's the brewer's fault, not the brewery's fault. To answer you question a variable flow sensor switch can be installed that will shut off the element of the flow gets too slow.
 
Remilard: Absolutely....those are very strong points. The only reason why I mention it is because I am currently building a rig that has cost quite a bit of money in the long-run (only God knows how much :)). Had I spent the money up front, I'd have charged it and would be paying ~$70/month in interest (compounded). If I just saved up, I'd get NO use and no DIY abilities. Lastly, building as you go allows you to really analyze what you want, build exactly what you want...plus you get the value of learning a new skill (electronics, welding, etc.). To me, it's a journey....to others, it's a destination...tomato-tomotto :mug: Because of all the DIY'ing, I've definitely got more tools than any of my neighbors :D
 
I'd say you'd need to go with 1" triclamps....1/2" & 3/4" stuff is very difficult to find. I think there's benefits to doing it yourself....you can use dedicated pots instead of kegs, and you can do things custom the way you want them, like bottom drains, etc. Cost IS an issue, but it sounds like you've got the skill and resources to offset the price. Also, if you build it yourself, the cost is spread over time vs. a large lump sum (with interest).

Steve,

The most common and least expensive size Tri Clover size is 1.5". KLG Stainless has the best prices I have found to date. BTW...LooyvilleLarry is sponsoring a Tri Clover Group Buy over on the Brewtroller site (http://forum.brewtroller.com/showthread.php?t=804).
 
Steve,

The most common and least expensive size Tri Clover size is 1.5". KLG Stainless has the best prices I have found to date. BTW...LooyvilleLarry is sponsoring a Tri Clover Group Buy over on the Brewtroller site (http://forum.brewtroller.com/showthread.php?t=804).

Good call on the group buy...I recommended the 1" because they're still pretty available, slightly cheaper than 1.5", and the ID is already 7/8"...which is much larger than most brewers need. I have 1.5" for my RIMS, but only so I can slide the element in. Only thing is the gaskets are unique to 1"....you have to get the kind that will cover the whole ferrule face or there will be a gap.
 
That can happen to any RIMS brewer if the flow is too slow or they get a stuck mash. In either case it's the brewer's fault, not the brewery's fault. To answer you question a variable flow sensor switch can be installed that will shut off the element of the flow gets too slow.

RIMS is the one where you are directly heating the wort during recirculation, right? HERMS is the one where you are passing the wort through a coil immersed in heated water, right?

Maybe a HERMS would be in order there.
 
RIMS is the one where you are directly heating the wort during recirculation, right? HERMS is the one where you are passing the wort through a coil immersed in heated water, right?

Maybe a HERMS would be in order there.

It is true that it's tuff to scortch the wort with a HERMS but a properly setup and executed RIMS will not scortch either. It's like anything else, RIMS has certain advantages and disadvantages and the same is true of a HERMS. There is no such thing as a free lunch.
 
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