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Yakima 728
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You can either remove the hoses and clean the kettles in the sink or mix up about 3 gallons of PBW and move it from one kettle to another. I usually do the PBW so I don't have to break all my lines apart.

I also ordered a big brush from Five Star Chemical. When the PBW is in the kettle, I take the brush quick and do the kettle walls.

I have a garden hose connection to hot water that I use to rinse everything down. I stole that idea from the local brewery after I shadowed for a day.

Clean up is roughly 45 minutes, that includes recirc time and a quick dry towel buff of the kettles.
 
augiedoggy said:
Curious, what does the frequency monitor help with? And is that latex tubing your using instead of silicone?
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Haha! Absolutely nothing. I am a System Operator by trade so it was a cheap corky addition to the panel that I chuckle at each time I fire it up.

The tubing is silicone with 1/2" orange wire loom slipped over it.
 
Kuruts said:
Haha! Absolutely nothing. I am a System Operator by trade so it was a cheap corky addition to the panel that I chuckle at each time I fire it up.

The tubing is silicone with 1/2" orange wire loom slipped over it.
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That's funny, I told a guy at work while we were talking about panels that I wanted it to look seriously more complicated than it really is. When someone looks at my panel I want it to look like a NASA space shuttle cockpit to them. I don't know why, I guess gadgetry and gauges, and lights and switches just look cool to me
 
wtaylor3 said:
That's funny, I told a guy at work while we were talking about panels that I wanted it to look seriously more complicated than it really is. When someone looks at my panel I want it to look like a NASA space shuttle cockpit to them. I don't know why, I guess gadgetry and gauges, and lights and switches just look cool to me
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You could put a bunch of fake dials, flashing lights, alarms, and a self destruct button
 
if your looking for more gizmos,
I just added a flow switch to my rims line which kills the rims heater automatically in the even of a stuck sparge ;) theres a lot of them available on ebay and you could wire up an alarm to notify you if one occurs. I also use a flow meter which shows you the real time flow level while mashing and acts as a sight glass at the same time to see how the beer clears up ..

I use double layer multi micron course to fine filtering (stainless braid INSIDE a bazooka tube with a false bottom above that) so I have never once used rice hulls or had a stuck sparge in the 40+ brew sessions I have on my rig... just something to consider...
 
augiedoggy said:
if your looking for more gizmos,
I just added a flow switch to my rims line which kills the rims heater automatically in the even of a stuck sparge ;) theres a lot of them available on ebay and you could wire up an alarm to notify you if one occurs.
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Could you give me an idea on how you wired this up?
 
Mojzis said:
Could you give me an idea on how you wired this up?
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well its basically just a switch... so if you wire it in line to disrupt the continuity between the + wire between your rims pid and ssr it will cut the signal to that ssr when the flow stops and kill the element... it works the same way as the float switch I wired into my HLT to kill that element once the water level drops to element level.

You could wire it into the "-" wire as well since either will break the signal circuit to the ssr.
 
augiedoggy said:
well its basically just a switch... so if you wire it in line to disrupt the continuity between the + wire between your rims pid and ssr it will cut the signal to that ssr when the flow stops and kill the element... it works the same way as the float switch I wired into my HLT to kill that element once the water level drops to element level.

You could wire it into the "-" wire as well since either will break the signal circuit to the ssr.
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Where did you place yours? I was thinking right on the outlet of the MT, but then I wouldnt be able to use my RIMS tube to heat HLT water. Maybe on the inlet to the RIMS?

Something like this would be perfect.
 
JoshuaW said:
Where did you place yours? I was thinking right on the outlet of the MT, but then I wouldnt be able to use my RIMS tube to heat HLT water. Maybe on the inlet to the RIMS?

Something like this would be perfect.
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It doesnt actually matter as long as its in the flow path...I mounted mine on the rims exit as shown in my thread here... just finished wiring and tested it and it works great! (slow day at work and I work from home so)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/facelift-my-control-panel-497593/index10.html
 
My Cabella's ammo can panel :D

This cost me 278$ total. It was built on a post grad budget. I used a lot of spare wiring and got wire donations from my brother (electrician). I realize now I could have done it for <200 if I went with push buttons, no pwm for the pump, cheaper 12v supply and left out the amp/volt meter. I've been brewing with it for over a year and it's worth its weight in gold.

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Mojzis said:
My Cabella's ammo can panel :D

This costed me 278$ total. It was built on a post grad budget. I used a lot of spare wiring and got wire donations from my brother (electrician). I realize now I could have done it for <200 if I went with push buttons, no pwm for the pump, cheaper 12v supply and left out the amp/volt meter. I've been brewing with it for over a year and it's worth its weight in gold.
Click to expand...

Have you found that lowering your "i" value helps prevent any overshooting yet on those mypin pids? I set "I" to one on all mine and they work great now vs overshooting and slower reaction times with default settings...
 
I think before I just had the sensor in the wrong location, which was on the output of the vessel not the RIMS. Once I switched to the output on the RIMS it pretty much fixed the issue of over shooting.

But one problem I see is that the temp i'm getting from the pid is quite different that that of the thermometer in my MT. The differences ranges from 1-6F. I realize the tubing isn't insulated and I should technically lose some heat, but it doesn't seem right. Generally I have been frustrated with the RIMS tube. I use it now just to get to desired temp/heat the tun then I turn it off and let the insulated tun keep temp.
 
Mojzis said:
I think before I just had the sensor in the wrong location, which was on the output of the vessel not the RIMS. Once I switched to the output on the RIMS it pretty much fixed the issue of over shooting.

But one problem I see is that the temp i'm getting from the pid is quite different that that of the thermometer in my MT. The differences ranges from 1-6F. I realize the tubing isn't insulated and I should technically lose some heat, but it doesn't seem right. Generally I have been frustrated with the RIMS tube. I use it now just to get to desired temp/heat the tun then I turn it off and let the insulated tun keep temp.
Click to expand...

I would give changing the I setting to 1 a shot... it made a huge difference for me... also calibrate you temp probes... one of my 3 pids was reading off 2 degrees.. these is an easy adjustment for this... now my manual thermometer in my MT exit Tee reads within one degree of my wot exiting my rims... no real temp losses over 1 degree...
Sorry Back on topic...
 
ChocolateMaltyBalls said:
Looks great, I bet it was a little tight in there wiring it.
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You have no idea! I have large hands too...I came away with battle scars from all the sharp edges. It took a lot of time and patience to fit it all in. If I were do it over again I would use a box at least 3x bigger.

It looks more disorganized in the pictures but its not too bad. The hardest part was getting the heat sinks mounted to the bottom. I made an error and did those last (see how straight?) if you couldn't tell. I also zip tied a pwm for the pump in this picture and left those wires loose. The original one I bought fried and all I had was a tiny one I slid in there.

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Mojzis said:
You have no idea! I have large hands too...I came away with battle scars from all the sharp edges. It took a lot of time and patience to fit it all in. If I were do it over again I would use a box at least 3x bigger.

It looks more disorganized in the pictures but its not too bad. The hardest part was getting the heat sinks mounted to the bottom. I made an error and did those last (see how straight?) if you couldn't tell. I also zip tied a pwm for the pump in this picture and left those wires loose. The original one I bought fried and all I had was a tiny one I slid in there.
Click to expand...

Same here... I used 25amp omron relays instead of contactors which saved some space ... I wish mine were as organized as your...
 
DNKDUKE said:
Enabled on "Voice Command"....:rockin:
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That would be awesome seems a bit out of my skill range, unfortunately the panel got pushed back yet again had to buy swmbo a van....happy wife, happy life I suppose. I have however received the ok for a kegerator conversion kit. Progress!
 
Augiedoggy, Thanks, I actually used some advice of yours on that thread to stay under my 30 amp circuit limit. I created a 4500w/240v heat stick to use in my turkey fryer HLT. It worked great and I was able to run it and the RIMS at the same time.

Unfortunately, the third or forth time I use it I forgot to turn it off when I was sparging and it dry fired and blew. I ordered another one and I think I'll just mount it into the HLT permanently. It did trip my GFCI, which was good. So I know it is safe.
 

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