So I bought a Wheat beer kit...

So this is going to be my second batch ever. I've decided to step it up a bit and not do the prehopped can brew. I went to my LHBS and got the most popular wheat beer recipee. It came with hops and a big ass bag of something...anyhow, my question is would this be considered a hefeweizen if once bottled I pour yeast and all into my glass? Hmm, any other information you think may be vital about making a wheat beer would be nice. THANKS!

It depends on the type of yeast. If you have a hefeweizen yeast, then you are making a hefeweizen.

As double E5 says, the type of yeast will determine what you have. As for advice, I've made a couple of wheat beers - one just a straight Wheat Ale and the other a Belgian Wit and both times got a very quick starting and violent fermentation, so would recommend using a blow off tube.

I recently brewed a wheat beer and pitched WLP300 (Hefeweizen Ale Yeast). There beer was delicious but was disappointed with the overpowered banana/clove esters. Very strong. If you decide to go with WLP yeast, I would highly reccomend using WLP320 as it will not leave as strong a nose as the WLP300. Just my couple pennies.

axr

JebCkr said:

It came with hops and a big ass bag of something...

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That is most likely your DME (dried malt extract).

Ferment in the 60's, lower is better - more balanced flavors. Unless you like

-OCD

Wheat yeast and hefeweizen yeast are different. For a hefeweizen, you need a wheat malt extract (typically 40-60% wheat) and a hefeweizen yeast.

Thank you all for your help! Oh, and the woman at the HBS warned me of the violent fermentation and recomended placing the top loosly on my bucket for the first few days. I'm assuming there's no harm in that.

top loosly on should do the trick. you might also put your bucket on a trashbag or something plastic in the off chance that the fermentation overflows.

you can also search "blow off" in the search field up top to see how a lot of people handle a violent fermentation.

cheers!

Couple of recommendations. First, don't bother with secondary. Primary for 2 weeks and, if fermentation is complete, bottle. Secondary if for clearing and aging, neither of which is beneficial for a wheat beer.

Second, do a late extract addition. Add about half the extract at the beginning of the boil, then the rest with about 10 minutes remaining. This will keep the color light by reducing caramelization.

The instructions I was given call for a 30 min boil on the hops I have and then add the malt and boil for 10-15 more mins. What you said makes me feel like I'm not boiling the malt long enough.

What you were told will work. Shorter extract boil time for a lighter colored beer. Since wheat beer doesn't rely on the hops so much 45min total time should be fine. Relax, Don't Worry.......

-OCD

david_42 said:

Wheat yeast and hefeweizen yeast are different.

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I am aware that there are different yeasts traditionally used in making wheat beers, but I am not sure what you mean here.

Can you flesh it out a bit?

fratermus said:

I am aware that there are different yeasts traditionally used in making wheat beers, but I am not sure what you mean here.

Can you flesh it out a bit?

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This thread keeps going and we really don't have any details. Baggie of hops, big A55 bag of stuff, and some yeast (could be anything) Wheat and WIT would probably be most likely but he could even just have some Saf-05. Nobody knows, we just like talking about hefe's I guess.

Just made 5 gallons this morning: extract, coriander, chamomile and honey. Smells good enough to drink now.
Oh, and it will go on my Scheider Weiss yeast, once I pull the current batch out of the bucket.

-OCD