Rims 3/8"

Been reading the RIMS posts, but haven't found the answer to my question. Apologize up front if the answer is out there.

I have a keggle 3-tier brew-tree with 3/8" fittings. I have seen that RIMS tubes and March pumps are recommended for 1/2" flow. Can I do 3/8" or will I carmelize and burn out the heater too easily? I could, of course, do 1/2" and switch to 3/8" at the beginning/end of the line, but that seems it would defeat the purpose. Do I need to drill some more holes in my keggle and mash-tun?

Secondary questions....I like the DIY, but I am crap at it so like to keep things simple and don't mind paying a little extra for that luxury.

Thinking about doing a toolbox set-up with

• Auber PID
• brewers hardware 1.5" RIMS tube
• Camco 4500W 240V ULD heater
• 2.5" 1/2" NPT thermometer
• March Pump with cord attached

Seems I could use a power strip surge protector and plug the pump and PID into that with the thermostat and the heater plugged into the PID. Then, I would have a single switch to operate both the pump and the heater so as not to burn it out and one cord (from the surge protector) to plug in via extension cord.

Will this work? Would something else have a better combination of ease and price? Do I need anything else if I want to mount all the pieces inside a toolbox? Will it get too hot?

Can I use RIMS tube with 1/2" fittings and March pump with 1/2" fittings together with my existing HLT and mash-tun that are 3/8" fittings? Will the 3/8" slow down the flow too much for the pump and heater? Anyone?

You will get half the flow with 3/8 instead of 1/2 that being said.. If all you are doing is holding a mash temp it should work... Don't expect to boil water etc... Your temp controller should keep the rims from over heating the wort...

I use 1/2" fittings with 3/8" tubing throughout my rims system with a chugger pump...

Seems to work OK.

I think it should work fine, I'm sure most folks close their valves some to restrict flow so you'll just close them less. Can't shoot the wort through too fast or it won't heat up!

Very few people open their March pump outlet valves more than 1/2 to 3/4 anyways. You should be fine with a reducer and a nipple threaded on. You are going to be running cleaner through your lines anyways so there shouldn't be any worry.

Not quite sure I understand your point about burning out your heater? Are you referring to your 3/8 causing a restriction in flow, and therefore your heating coil not being fully surrounded by wort? As long as your temperature probe is in contact with the wort exiting the heater, there should be no chance of burning out your heater.

OK, that all makes sense. I am realizing my stupidity regarding burning out the heater because wort is going too slow.....if wort going slower, heater is turned on less by thermostat..... Thanks for setting me straight.

As far as the decreased flow hurting the march pump, I appreciate the info about outlet valves only being partially opened on 1/2" lines anyway. Sounds like March pump will be perfectly happy pulling in from a 3/8" fitting and pushing out to same.

Should I place the converters at the keggle and mashtun and go through 1/2" lines or should I put the converters at the pump and the RIMS tube and use 3/8" lines?

My preference would be to go with 1/2" lines. My system is a herms- the coil itself is 3/8" but everything else (pump, chiller, kettle fittings, etc) is 1/2". Works great.

I agree with hillhousesawdustco. Brewinghardware sells quickdisconnects for like $4-6, it wouldn't be that expensive, just a pain in the ass to change the keggle fittings.

The reducer might get a small buildup of caramelized sugars (this may not even be true), so you just need to worry about where it would be a problem for the build up to occur. However, it's possible that the flow won't allow any buildup to occur. I'll let someone else with experience clarify where the reducer should go, as I have no experience and am just speculating.

Does a power strip work the same as a gfic on this guy set up? Anyone?

I appreciate all the advice. Homebrewers are already great people, but it's pretty amazing to bring so many helpful similar minded people together. (that sounded like "simple minded", but it's different)

I think I am going to re-plumb my mash tun (cooler) for 1/2" to support the mash re-circ which is the main reason for the RIMS anyway.

I will leave the keggles as 3/8" and then can use a converter on HLT fitting to connect with 1/2" RIMS hose for drawing in sparge water at exact sparge temps from already heated HLT keggle. If I get a mash-tun float switch, it would be fine to flow sparge out into boil keggle with 1/2" gravity. Probably will need to slow it down anyway.

Down the line might work out how to use pump, but not RIMS for cooling post-boil. Currently using copper immersion with hose.

A few questions remaining

• As OPB pointed out, GFIC is different from surge protection. There are GFIC adapters like this that I will probably use and then out to extension cord instead of wiring. Sound OK?
• Is it OK to plumb the pump/RIMS to the HLT like that for sparging? Sparge flow will be going pretty slowly so I would imagine the float switch would keep cutting the pump on and and off.

Thanks again everyone.