HERMS element question

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

blaster_54738

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
473
Reaction score
60
Location
Eleva
Would a 1500W or 2000W element be enough to maintain temperature in a HLT for a HERMS system? I don't have the means to go 240 volts right now so I'm looking for something I can use with the 120V I have in my rentals garage. I have a RIMS system but would like to switch to a HERMS. I'm sure I could get away with the 2000W element also, we have a 20amp breaker in the garage. Also would the density matter since it'll just be heating water?
 
How many gallons?


This is a function of mass. The more water you intend to heat, the more watts you need.
 
Sorry, 5 gallons for now, eventually may be 10 but when that time comes I should be in a house and have access to 240
 
I'm going to jump in on this as I'm doing the same thing currently. I'm planning to heat my hlt by gas thenmaintain temp with a 2000w element off from 110 and a 20 amp braker. I'm also planning to do 10 gallon batches. Hoping this week be enough to keep the system up and running.
 
I'm going to jump in on this as I'm doing the same thing currently. I'm planning to heat my hlt by gas thenmaintain temp with a 2000w element off from 110 and a 20 amp braker. I'm also planning to do 10 gallon batches. Hoping this week be enough to keep the system up and running.

That's kind of what I was planning as well. It'd be a pain but I'd use my BK to heat the strike water close to temp then pump it over to the HLT and then the heater element to maintain that temperature. That way I'd only have to have one propane burner.
 
I used a 2000W element in a keg to heat my strike water and maintain temps in a HERMS system for a while. For 5 gallon batches you can make it work but its takes a little planing. Your HEX coil needs to be as low as posable, so when you fill your mash tun with your strike water the coil will still be submerged and that you will not have to re-fill your HLT to keep it submerged. Also you will also need to plan on waiting about 2hr for the strike water to heat up.
 
I used a 2000W element in a keg to heat my strike water and maintain temps in a HERMS system for a while. For 5 gallon batches you can make it work but its takes a little planing. Your HEX coil needs to be as low as posable, so when you fill your mash tun with your strike water the coil will still be submerged and that you will not have to re-fill your HLT to keep it submerged. Also you will also need to plan on waiting about 2hr for the strike water to heat up.

You were heating the water from tap (or where ever you were getting your water) temps to strike temp? I would use propane to do the majority of the heating and the element to maintain temps. I'm assuming it maintained temps without a problem?
 
Aren't you better off with an independent heat exchanger in the 0.5 gallon range for your HERMS?

Smaller volume gives your PID more control, and you're free to focus on hitting strike temp with the HLT. 1.5-2kW still sounds reasonable, you can fit a lot of copper coil in that space.
 
That's kind of what I was planning as well. It'd be a pain but I'd use my BK to heat the strike water close to temp then pump it over to the HLT and then the heater element to maintain that temperature. That way I'd only have to have one propane burner.

Oh okay, I did not get that bit of information reading your post. My brother has a system set up like that, his 2000w element is more than enough to maintain temps, but he uses propane to ramp up his temperatures.
 
Just keep in mind that a 1500w element running at 110 is only putting out 1/4th the wattage = 375W. This will definitely factor into how long it will take to push temps. Might consider a drop in heatstick if you don't use a propane burner for pre-heat.
 
Just keep in mind that a 1500w element running at 110 is only putting out 1/4th the wattage = 375W. This will definitely factor into how long it will take to push temps. Might consider a drop in heatstick if you don't use a propane burner for pre-heat.

Only if you buy a 240v element and run it at 110v. If you buy a 110 element and run it at 110, you will get rated wattage.
 
True. I just assumed base on the OP that a 240 element might be involved.
 
I am setting up almost this exact same system. Using a 110V element simply to maintain HLT Temp while using burners to ramp up the temp quickly.

Stand_burners.jpg
 
Back
Top