CheekyMonk Brewery 50amp Build

Ok, here goes. About March of 2015 my old reliable igloo MT failed. A few years of hot water and the recycled cooler gave out. I had been having issues with maintaining my mash temps and my efficiency was suffering accordingly. My first thoughts was a better cooler (no cracks), maybe a better screen or a false bottom. Then I started thinking about RIMS, just to keep the mash consistent.

There is a problem when I start thinking like this. There is always the issue of sequences. I started by needing a new MT. Then I think it would be beneficial for a simple RIMS tube. Well, obviously that requires a control panel, and a power source. If I am already building a control panel, then it would be much more to add an electric BK.... Yeah, it really grew from there.

The following is what I ended up with. About 8 months making, a lot of learning, and today, my first batch of all electric beer. It will take me a few days to add all the steps and photos. I will describe each as I go.

I want to say now, I have read hundreds of posts, looked a photos of other builds, and analyzed all the pros and cons of different systems. This system is what I decided was best for my wants and needs. I want to thank everybody out there who has contributed, albeit unknowingly.

From the beginning I had issues of space. More space than many people probably have, but still an issue. I wanted to go all electric so the first question was were to get the power. Easy, I have a 60amp subpanel in my detached garage. Where to put the brewery? i have no room to keep a brew stand. Not even if it rolls out of the way. I also wanted a single tier system. I want to be able to look inside each vessel. BIAB systems work, no doubt. But I didn't want one.

So the only location is an outside worktable, adjacent the garage, close to power and water. The system would need to be portable. Take it apart and store on a shelf. I wanted some computer control, but I am not a programmer, nor an engineer. This is what I came up with.

A BCS controlled system. With help from EBrewing supply, I was able to source all the components for a 3-element 50 amp panel. This would supply a 4500W HLT, 4500W BK, and a 2000W RIMS.

Some assembly was required.

Being a visual person, I wanted to lay out the panel and be able to see the wiring before I actually started cutting wire. I had a little issue with the supplied wiring diagram and assembly book did not specifically address 3 element systems, or LED panel switches. Also I have a small case and little free room to play with inside.

Break out the pipe cleaners.



Damn, no room for the wiring and BCS. Maybe I can mount that thing on its side......

Ok, got the idea, definitely modified the suggested design. All the buttons and switches are mounted, time to play connect the dots.







AND, Done...

More!!

The pipe cleaner thing is the most anal retentive thing I've seen in a while. Awesomely meticulous.

Nice build TylerAI! I love the use of the pipe cleaners, lets you adjust and move things around without wasting wire. Great job!

Man you should be very proud of yourself! Very clean and professional! Good luck with the rest of the build!

John

Quick Add:
Here are a few photos of the equipment coming in. Megapots thanks to a well timed sale. RIMS with a sight glass, and a Duda Diesel chiller..




I really wanted a sight glass. A friend of mine had one and I really liked watching the wort flow. The problem was where to put it. His table was half hard plumbed in. This rig has to be easy assembly and take apart. With a split tube, I decided I could put a sight glass in the middle. A lot of thought, and I finally went with the 1.5 inch tube.




Slight element modification to fit. This worried me. I had seen so many posts about breaking elements, and an equal number of photos of elements bent every direction, what the hell. The trick was apply a little heat with a propane torch and use a block as a bend point. With a lot of luck I got it just right. Does not touch the tube, with very little free space.

Bobby_M said:

The pipe cleaner thing is the most anal retentive thing I've seen in a while. Awesomely meticulous.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bobby. I was sweating about getting half of the wiring done and realizing I had something backwards. Or a puff of blue smoke when I plugged it in. I understand wiring concepts, but am no engineer. A healthy respect for 240 volts.

BTW, A lot of my project came from you. Thanks again.

Your RIMS element will likely be too short compared to your tube length. This creates a long lag before temperature changes are sensed.

-BD

BrunDog said:

Your RIMS element will likely be too short compared to your tube length. This creates a long lag before temperature changes are sensed.

-BD

Click to expand...

Looks like the OP has a probe port on the flat end (triclamp port cover) near the outlet. With an appropriate length probe, the tip could be very close to the end of the element.

Brew on

Amazing work so far. +1 on the pipe cleaner setup. That's brilliant.


In for more work. Plan to start building my electric brew setup in my basement over the summer and was looking at a panel from eBrewing Supply also

doug293cz said:

Looks like the OP has a probe port on the flat end (triclamp port cover) near the outlet. With an appropriate length probe, the tip could be very close to the end of the element.



Brew on

Click to expand...

Betcha a dollar the element can't even be viewed from the sight glass. There was another Brewer here who recently suffered the same problem.

BrunDog said:

Betcha a dollar the element can't even be viewed from the sight glass. There was another Brewer here who recently suffered the same problem.

Click to expand...

Yeah I remember that thread. Might need a longer probe than is readily available.

Brew on

Here it is: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=566819

Ok, been away from the computer for a little while. So I will try to catch up with the responses:

Brun, I can see your concern and I did watch the other thread you posted. My setup does appear to be different in several respects. True, my temp probe is not setting on top of the element, but is more inline than Flaviking had. Don't forget this is not a build in progress. It is functionally finished and has made beer. During the mash, running about 1/3 open on the valve to get a slow flow, the RIMS temp was a consistent 153 to 154, with the mash probe at 152. I think I should adjust for the RIMS to stay on 152 with the tank slightly lower. A few more brews will tell. The RIMS element was only coming on for very short, intermittent bursts and I saw (smelled) no signs of scorching. I am not feeding a 120v element with 240v. Basically none of the issues I saw on the video or you describe. So until its broke, it stays. And you would loose that dollar, there is not much, but the element can be seen from the glass. .

So, where were we....

Bobby_M said:

The pipe cleaner thing is the most anal retentive thing I've seen in a while. Awesomely meticulous.

Click to expand...

Awesome idea... I'm totally hijacking this method when I upgrade my panel

Tanks, kettles, pots, the big shiny things. I have been using an 8 gal pot for several years. Great pot, good for turkey fryer burners. But as has been pointed out in innumerable threads, 8 gal is to small. So a well timed sale got me a matched set for 25% off. Included was a decent false bottom, weldless fittings for some valves, a dial temp gauge, and some weird sparge thingy that I probably wont use. I still think it was at least an average deal.

Honestly, I tried the weldless fittings. Yeah, just not me. I am sure they are the great and don't really want to pour gas on that argument, but. I tried and they leaked, the silicon o-rings would not sit in place, and in general the valves just didn't seem tight on the pot. Bobby, those pull through fittings are the absolute best. Granted, I was welding farm equipment when I was 14 and a torch does not scare me. I should have used it more. Here is what I got.



In the planning, I did miss some details. Like the exact length of the boil elements. That would be about 1/2 too damn long to weldless bolt to the pot. Ok, plan B. Weld on a 2 inch tri base, and clamp the element in. Makes it easier to remove anyway. So I get the weld on base and decide to experiment on the keggle. Cheaper to screw it up. The youtube video showed this thing being soldered on, and I had already soldered a pull through bulkhead, so no problem. Yeah, right. The little blue torch won't heat enough for my lack of skills (oxy-acy rig is out of commission, needs a new regulator). Ok, time for the local welder.

Inside Shot:


Well, damn. While the outside looks ok, he later told me he couldn't reach the inside. It least it's the HLT and just boils water.

While the pull-throughs look AWSOME...







Yeah, there's a story behind that last one. I should have pulled a coupler and not the original pull through. My probe fittings were male thread. Damn. I wonder if I could put the compression fitting on the inside, push the probe through and it would work in reverse?



It will for now..

Quick photo of the element ports of the BK.





Not the best welding job. Should have tried soldering it myself. A lot thinner metal that the HLT/Keggle.

When the element cables came, they had this really awesome braided tubing to protect the wires. While I have used plastic wire loom before, I have not used this mesh sleeve. This stuff is great. I had to get a roll for the temp probe wires and a short extension cord for the pump. Gotta love Amazon.

Your welds will be fine. They don't need to be sanitary for a BK.I'd clean them good with Bar Keepers Friend to passivate them a little.

Your gonna love being able to remove the element, when you clean your boil kettle! Way easier to clean the kettle without dragging the cords, and much easier to clean all sides of the element as well!

John