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some internal o-rings for sanke couplers:

Perlick Mk-1 needs 3x #117 for the ID of the coupler body (this may be the same for newer Perlicks)
Taprite "wing" style needs 1x #118 for the coupler body and 2x #115 for the probe.

I also have a coupler which I do not know the brand of (has an "O" stamped in the body). It is similar to the Taprite wing handle, except it has more of a "wheel" handle to operate it. It used the same o-rings as the Taprite wing handle.
 
PIN LOCK POST O-RING SOLVED!!!

Okay, sorry for the yelling above, but I wanted to get your attention. After I switched my gas lines to reinforced lines and beer lines to 3/16” BevSeal (no more beer tasting like water from a garden hose), I developed frequent gas leaks and occasional beer leaks. The reinforced gas lines and BevSeal are much stiffer than the beer/gas lines most use, which caused the fitting to torque and twist. After losing several tanks of CO2, reading this entire post several times and many other posts, I decided to take a hit for the team. Here is what tried:

No. 1. -112 BUNA
No. 2. -112 Silicone
No. 3. 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 4. 12mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 2.5mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 5. 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 6. 10mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3.5mm (Diameter) Silicone

I decided to go with 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the beer post and 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the gas post. The inside diameter of Nos. 1 & 2 were too big. The 2.5mm diameter of No. 4 was too small for the groove, and I did not get a snug connection. The 3.5mm diameter of No. 6 was just too thick to fit in the groove.

No. 3 works well on the beer post; it takes a little stretching, but is nice and snug. No. 5 on the gas post is downright tight and takes a little wiggling to get it off. It may be too tight for some. I did not try 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone because I could not find them in small quantities, but it is right between the two and may be just right. I also don’t know how well BUNA would work. It seems less stretchy to me and might make No. 3 too hard to get on the post and No. 5 too hard to get the connector on post. I’ll leave it someone else to try BUNA and 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone.

I ordered small quantities on Amazon from here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MKXQ9M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.49 - 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ASY3Y8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.47 - 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
Larger quantities (and the 11x17x3 in silicone) can be purchased at http://www.oringsandmore.com/.

I welcome others to carry the torch from here and post their results. I’ve also attached a few photos.
No. 5 is on the left, a BUNA -111 (agreed ball lock size) in the middle, and No 3 on the right.

Oring 1.jpg


Oring 2.jpg


Oring 3.jpg
 
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Thanks for this. The #5 is tight on the beer post, but would it work ok? Would be nice for folks to just stick with one o ring if possible.
 
PIN LOCK POST O-RING SOLVED!!!

Okay, sorry for the yelling above, but I wanted to get your attention. After I switched my gas lines to reinforced lines and beer lines to 3/16” BevSeal (no more beer tasting like water from a garden hose), I developed frequent gas leaks and occasional beer leaks. The reinforced gas lines and BevSeal are much stiffer than the beer/gas lines most use, which caused the fitting to torque and twist. After losing several tanks of CO2, reading this entire post several times and many other posts, I decided to take a hit for the team. Here is what tried:

No. 1. -112 BUNA
No. 2. -112 Silicone
No. 3. 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 4. 12mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 2.5mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 5. 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 6. 10mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3.5mm (Diameter) Silicone

I decided to go with 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the beer post and 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the gas post. The inside diameter of Nos. 1 & 2 were too big. The 2.5mm diameter of No. 4 was too small for the groove, and I did not get a snug connection. The 3.5mm diameter of No. 6 was just too thick to fit in the groove.

No. 3 works well on the beer post; it takes a little stretching, but is nice and snug. No. 5 on the gas post is downright tight and takes a little wiggling to get it off. It may be too tight for some. I did not try 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone because I could not find them in small quantities, but it is right between the two and may be just right. I also don’t know how well BUNA would work. It seems less stretchy to me and might make No. 3 too hard to get on the post and No. 5 too hard to get the connector on post. I’ll leave it someone else to try BUNA and 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone.

I ordered small quantities on Amazon from here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MKXQ9M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.49 - 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ASY3Y8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.47 - 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
Larger quantities (and the 11x17x3 in silicone) can be purchased at http://www.oringsandmore.com/.

I welcome others to carry the torch from here and post their results. I’ve also attached a few photos.
No. 5 is on the left, a BUNA -111 (agreed ball lock size) in the middle, and No 3 on the right.

This is great! I have pin locks and original purchased the 112 for the gas posts- they are a little loose but they seem to be working for me. Next time I buy I will use your guidance.
 
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PIN LOCK POST O-RING SOLVED!!!

Okay, sorry for the yelling above, but I wanted to get your attention. After I switched my gas lines to reinforced lines and beer lines to 3/16” BevSeal (no more beer tasting like water from a garden hose), I developed frequent gas leaks and occasional beer leaks. The reinforced gas lines and BevSeal are much stiffer than the beer/gas lines most use, which caused the fitting to torque and twist. After losing several tanks of CO2, reading this entire post several times and many other posts, I decided to take a hit for the team. Here is what tried:

No. 1. -112 BUNA
No. 2. -112 Silicone
No. 3. 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 4. 12mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 2.5mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 5. 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 6. 10mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3.5mm (Diameter) Silicone

I decided to go with 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the beer post and 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the gas post. The inside diameter of Nos. 1 & 2 were too big. The 2.5mm diameter of No. 4 was too small for the groove, and I did not get a snug connection. The 3.5mm diameter of No. 6 was just too thick to fit in the groove.

No. 3 works well on the beer post; it takes a little stretching, but is nice and snug. No. 5 on the gas post is downright tight and takes a little wiggling to get it off. It may be too tight for some. I did not try 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone because I could not find them in small quantities, but it is right between the two and may be just right. I also don’t know how well BUNA would work. It seems less stretchy to me and might make No. 3 too hard to get on the post and No. 5 too hard to get the connector on post. I’ll leave it someone else to try BUNA and 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone.

I ordered small quantities on Amazon from here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MKXQ9M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.49 - 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ASY3Y8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.47 - 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
Larger quantities (and the 11x17x3 in silicone) can be purchased at http://www.oringsandmore.com/.

I welcome others to carry the torch from here and post their results. I’ve also attached a few photos.
No. 5 is on the left, a BUNA -111 (agreed ball lock size) in the middle, and No 3 on the right.


Has anyone tried the 11mm x 17mm x 3mm Buna for the pin lock posts?
 
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Well, just found a leak in my gas line from a slightly cocked gas QD with a poor-fitting o-ring. Is the general consensus for pin lock QDs to use the silicon 10mm x 16mm x 3mm o-ring? Has anyone tried the 11mm x 17mm x 3mm?

Thanks!!
 
Well, just found a leak in my gas line from a slightly cocked gas QD with a poor-fitting o-ring. Is the general consensus for pin lock QDs to use the silicon 10mm x 16mm x 3mm o-ring? Has anyone tried the 11mm x 17mm x 3mm?

Thanks!!

I see no need to go bigger then 10mm x 16mm x 3mm. It is plenty tight. Silicone is great or save some money and use Buna
 
I removed and cleaned all the o-rings on my 2.5 gal ball lock keg and subsequently lost one of the universal poppet o-rings. I did some searching and found them for sale at Brooklyn Homebrew. There have been a few requests for the universal poppet o-ring size so here's the info according to Brooklyn Homebrew:

Universal Poppet O-ring
4mm ID x 6mm OD x 2mm Thickness, -35° to 250° F Temp Range

I'm not affiliated w/ Brooklyn Homebrew, just passing the info along. I did not order from them as I needed the o-ring ASAP and wound up buying a replacement poppet valve w/ o-ring from my LHBS.
 
So I pulled the trigger on a silicone oring order from mcmaster carr. I plan to replace all of my orings with silicone because the Buna-n ones seem to stretch and degrade pretty quickly. anyone have any idea what kind of lube is best on the silicone orings? I know i shouldn't use silicone but would my normal Keg lube work on silicone?
 
I'm pretty certain you should see the effect pretty quick. Doesn't it dissolve silicone?
 
I just checked what i use, it is petrol-gel, got it on amazon. Does not say silicon, maybe it is not. It is white grease.
 
I just wanted to add that I have found lid o-rings that seem to seal reliably with or w/o pressure. http://www.mcmaster.com/#90025k551/=tv3mi3

I highly recommend them to anyone especially since I have had problems with some lids leaking when I drop the pressure to fill bottles form a keg. Please add these O-rings to the original post.

Bumping this - I have some 3-gallon pin-lock lids that won't seal with the silicone o-rings I have, going to order a pack of these and a pack of something with an oversized diameter like here.

Hopefully one of the two will work - it will be totally worth my money after the frustration of trying to get lids sealed, swapping lids, yanking on them, etc.
 
I know, old thread. But it took some research for me to find o ring sizes for universal poppets. This link could be the correct answer.

http://www.homebrewing.org/Universal-Poppet_p_2615.html

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=6559739#post6559739

AS568 Dash Number 008 o-rings are a perfect match for the stock o-rings that came with mine. Perhaps ones from other manufacturers use the Dash Number 006 o-rings, but I suppose they would work fine as obviously they can stretch.
 
Well, just found a leak in my gas line from a slightly cocked gas QD with a poor-fitting o-ring. Is the general consensus for pin lock QDs to use the silicon 10mm x 16mm x 3mm o-ring? Has anyone tried the 11mm x 17mm x 3mm?

Thanks!!

I realize this is quite old, but I have used the 11mm x 17mm x 3mm silicone o-rings for my pin lock posts for about a year now. They seal very well. That is all I plan on using from now on.
 
I agree! I picked some up as well and they really do seal pin lock QDs great! I usually need to spray some sanitizer on them to lube them up and get them on, but I haven't had any issues at all since switching to them.
 
I've got some leaky lids! Is anyone using the X-Profile lid o-ring, P/N 90025K551? I see they're a little thinner than the round one listed on the first post, but the x-profile should make a better seal. I just wanted to hear if anyone's tried these out?

Also, does anyone know what the big, squishy Williams Brewing lid o-rings are? I can't find any 3.5" ID o-ring that has a cross-section dimension of 0.310". Any idea what the material is?

Thanks!
 
I've got some leaky lids! Is anyone using the X-Profile lid o-ring, P/N 90025K551? I see they're a little thinner than the round one listed on the first post, but the x-profile should make a better seal. I just wanted to hear if anyone's tried these out?

Also, does anyone know what the big, squishy Williams Brewing lid o-rings are? I can't find any 3.5" ID o-ring that has a cross-section dimension of 0.310". Any idea what the material is?

Thanks!

I'm using the x profile ones and they do work well for me. They are thinner as you say but seem to work better than the red silicone ones. I think they're worth a shot but YMMV.
 
I'm using the x ring for the lid. They work great on all 15 kegs I have, both pin and ball lock and they are a mix of manufacturers as well, so I feel pretty confident recommending them. I believe if you look back in this thread I posted the exact ones I ordered, off hand I can't be certain if the link you posted is the same.


Edit: looks like 90025k551 is correct
 
Thanks guys! That's reassuring info. I actually found a standard one in my brewing crap, so i'm going to try that one out (i'm thinking my keg lube messed up my silicon lid o-rings, so maybe buna-n will work fine). If it doesn't work, I'm going with the x-profile. Thanks again!
 
Hi

Does anyone know the size of the lid oring for a Mytton / Rheem Keg? It has a round threaded cap. My keg is missing the lid oring.

Thanks
 
I'm not sure about where to find them, outside of chicompany or one of Coca Cola's suppliers, but I was able to track down the official part number and dimensions for the o-rings on pin-lock posts:

Black: Hansen P/N 902-A-292 (Coke P/N 15312) - 0.450 ID x 0.658 OD EDPM
Red: Hansen P/N 902-A-292RD (Coke P/N 25076) - 0.450 ID x 0.658 OD EDPM

That's roughly 11.5mm ID x 16.75mm OD x 2.625mm Width.

Hope that gives you O-ring gurus some more data to play with to find the exact right O-ring!

Also, additional information for the pressure relief valve found in many (most?) pin-lock kegs, that looks like this:
df-cn217lg.jpg


That O-ring is 9/16 ID x 11/16 OD x 1/16 Width; dash number 015. McMaster part #9557K467; $9.19 per 100.
 
Since someone asked in the past and others will come to this thread, I ordered 11mm ID x 3mm silicone o-rings for my pin-lock kegs and they work great. The fit is slightly tighter than the original o-rings. I switch to silicone on some my kegs so I can boil o-rings after having mixed ferment with bacteria in them.
 
Wanted to add to this thread; I recently acquired some perlick 525 faucets and wanted to replace the orings. Of course, my LHBS has them but they are like $0.50 a piece. Each faucet has several, so that adds up quickly ($8 to replace 4 sets worth). Online with mcmaster, you have the unknown shipping charge, and I found them for the appropriate $.10-$.20 at random homebrew stores online, but again the shipping.

I found them at grainger, who has local stores so you can pick up for free.
I got a 25 pack of the dash 204 for $1.77 (mcmaster is 5.48 for 100) and the silicone dash 014 10 pack for 3.42 (mcmaster is 3.62 for 25). So for $5 I have 10 sets.

So yes mcmaster is a bit cheaper per unit, but there is a grainger 2 miles from my work to pick up.. check your area for one. They also have tri clover gaskets for like $.25. Those are $1 at my LHBS.

I also found the elusive dash number for the coupling gasket on the back of the perlicks (the square oring), it's dash 018, mcmaster item 4061T123, $5.18 for 100 pack. Grainger didn't have these (in the square profile)
 
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