Need help with automation direct switches

I bought the following switches from automationdirect.com

Here are the switches

I was expecting them to work like ordinary sp switches only pushbutton with an led. But they came with a "contact block." The contact block is N.O or normally open. So I assume this means it's off and when I push the button in will be closed and power the devices.

I'm not sure about wiring, though. Can anyone offer some guidance on wiring or on what the contact block is and how this puppy works?

Many thanks. I was hoping to get a RIMS control panel going this weekend, run some tests and brew next weekend.

The contact block will switch the load. Here's how you should wire it to illuminate when switched on.

Top of contact block:
incoming load (120v +)

Bottom of contact block:
switched load
AND jumper wire to the top terminal of the switch body

Top terminal of switch body:
See above

Bottom terminal of switch body:
120v neutral (to activate the lamp)

These switches are rated for 10 amp max.

You can share the loads in the top contact block terminals (between multiple switches), and you can share the neutrals.

Thanks for that information. Unfortunately, I wanted to use one of these for my element, which will draw 12.5 amps. Any recommendations for a switch I could use for that?

Thanks.

Just put a relay ie 781-1C-120A 120V coil, 15A contact rating

Budzu said:

The contact block will switch the load. Here's how you should wire it to illuminate when switched on.

Top of contact block:
incoming load (120v +)

Bottom of contact block:
switched load
AND jumper wire to the top terminal of the switch body

Top terminal of switch body:
See above

Bottom terminal of switch body:
120v neutral (to activate the lamp)

These switches are rated for 10 amp max.

You can share the loads in the top contact block terminals (between multiple switches), and you can share the neutrals.

Click to expand...

So it sounds like it's the opposite of a typical light switch where the "line" wire (hot) comes in the bottom and then the "load" wire (what line is supplying) goes out the top, no?

And the neutral wire can be "daisy chained" from the body of the switch?

Thanks. I thought it might be helpful for myself and others to compare this to a typical light switch installation. Cheers!

Cede said:

Just put a relay ie 781-1C-120A 120V coil, 15A contact rating

Click to expand...

The instructions got me a bit lost on their site. Do you essentially wire it like an SSR?

Thanks and sorry for the dumb question.

Dgonza9 said:

So it sounds like it's the opposite of a typical light switch where the "line" wire (hot) comes in the bottom and then the "load" wire (what line is supplying) goes out the top, no?

And the neutral wire can be "daisy chained" from the body of the switch?

Thanks. I thought it might be helpful for myself and others to compare this to a typical light switch installation. Cheers!

Click to expand...

Top and bottom are kind of relative on one of these push button switches.

Dgonza9 said:

Top and bottom are kind of relative on one of these push button switches.

Click to expand...

Additional info
This is an Automation Direct illuminated switch I use.
The green part is NO contact block.
One side gets connected to the supply voltage you like to switch (L in my case) and the other side goes to the load (L1 in my case).
The black block is the lamp part you wire to your voltage as required for your project.
In my case wire number 10 is DC common and 240 is 24 V+.


Now you can follow Budzu instruction based on the pics.
Edit:

So it sounds like it's the opposite of a typical light switch where the "line" wire (hot) comes in the bottom and then the "load" wire (what line is supplying) goes out the top, no?

Click to expand...

It does not matter how you wire the contact block.
My rule is for switches and circuit breakers supply on the top.
As you can see in the picture 24, 240 and L are all supply.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

I also found industrial switches confusing to understand at first. I documented how they work with pictures here describing the parts like operator (or selector), contact blocks, etc:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-1?page=9

Kal

The instructions got me a bit lost on their site. Do you essentially wire it like an SSR?

Click to expand...

Yes, sorta.
Wire switch terminal one to live, the other to the relay coil, and from the other pin of the relay coil to neutral.
You can wire the light in the switch in parallel with the charge at the relay contacts.