Drilling holes in a kettle

When I purchased my brew kettle I did not think I would need holes in it for a valve and a thermometer. I would like to keep using this kettle but would like to drill in a couple of holes so that I could make a Jamil style WIC. If I would start with some small pilot holes, going bigger from there would that work?
I realize that I would have to keep the drill as level and plum as possible. I don't want to ruin the kettle as it is a 20 gallon kettle and it would be rather expensive to replace.

unibit is your answer. if it's stainless, then go slow with a lot of pressure and use cutting oil.

unibit, or step bit, is the easiest. Search for drill kettle or keggle you will find lots of answers. I got cheap bits at Harbor Freight, they worked fine, just drill SLOW with HIGH pressure, it will cut up the stainless easily. Pilot holes help, the tip of the step bits aren't that great.

bdavanza said:

unibit, or step bit, is the easiest. Search for drill kettle or keggle you will find lots of answers. I got cheap bits at Harbor Freight, they worked fine, just drill SLOW with HIGH pressure, it will cut up the stainless easily. Pilot holes help, the tip of the step bits aren't that great.

Click to expand...

+1, You can get 2 decent step bits at HF for around 10-15 bux, and I believe the big one goes up to 1 1/2". Also, make sure you use some type of cutting oil to keep the bit cool / sharp. I normally use WD40, cause that's what I have on hand. I usually drill a 1/4" pilot hole and then move to the step bit.

I disagree. Do not waste your time with a drill. You spent a lot of money to get a 20 gal kettle. Spend pennies to get it done right. Take it to a welder who has a plasma cutter and get all the holes you will need. Sight glass hole, outflow, thermo hole, it will cost you about 50 bucks and you will have perfection.

Why is a plasma cutter preferable to a drill bit that would give you a perfectly round hole?

I have recently spent a lot of time drilling holes in stainless for my brewstand and my kettles. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brewstand-build-finished-1st-brew-today-117290/



The Harbor Freight step drill bits work perfectly. For my kettles, I used an old 1/2" drill motor that used to belong to my father. It probably dates from the '40s. Loads of torque. Used lots of WD-40 and everything went fine.

For the thinner gauge stainless I used on the brewstand, a higher speed 3/8" drill motor worked better. Or at least faster. The step drill will dull out after a dozen or so holes, but for the price, they can't be beat. Make sure you score the spot you are going to drill so the bit doesn't walk across your keg. Harbor Freight has an inexpensive, spring loaded, center punch that is great for this application.

There's no way a plasma would make a cleaner 3/4" diameter hole than a step bit would.

if u came to me and wanted to pay me just to drill or cut one hole in a kettle, i would over charge the $#!+ out of you. i seriously doubt it would take "pennies" to get a profesional to waste their precious time to cut one hole. they'll prolly just laugh at you and tell you to go buy a drill bit. buy an 8 dollar step bit from harbor frieght and do it yourself. it will raise your confidence and you'll save a lot of money.

crystalcabot said:

I disagree. Do not waste your time with a drill. You spent a lot of money to get a 20 gal kettle. Spend pennies to get it done right. Take it to a welder who has a plasma cutter and get all the holes you will need. Sight glass hole, outflow, thermo hole, it will cost you about 50 bucks and you will have perfection.

Click to expand...

I'll agree that you need to be careful when you drill, using the right tools will make the job easier, but there's no reason why even an average DIY'er shouldn't be able to drill a round hole.

HomebrewJeff said:

+1, You can get 2 decent step bits at HF for around 10-15 bux, and I believe the big one goes up to 1 1/2". Also, make sure you use some type of cutting oil to keep the bit cool / sharp. I normally use WD40, cause that's what I have on hand. I usually drill a 1/4" pilot hole and then move to the step bit.

Click to expand...

Just finished installing all of the ball valves, thermometers and sights glasses in my keggle last week. Pilot hole, then step bit made short work of any holes I needed. You can use smaller than 1/4" bit for a pilot so long as its big enough to get your step bit started.

Just out of curiousity, how would I install a sight glass? I was looking at the Blichman kettles and thought it was an interesting concept to know how much would be in the brewpot when I'm done brewing.

You could drill a 1/2" hole and buy a weldless sight glass kit from me.. see the link in my sig.

Buy a Step Drill from Harbor Freight to drill the hole... See the post above.

One disadvantage to a plasma cutter is the slag and spray they leave behind. It's a lot of cleaning.

I have not gotten to this project yet but I have one other question and did not want to start another thread. I was planning on putting a weldless style ball valve on similar to the one pictured below. Would this work in a boil kettle? If not could I have suggestions on one that would work.

that will work just fine on a boil kettle

Thanks, I was also looking into the WIC and would I be able to hook up a copper pipe to the stainless end for a outflow to a march pump?

gchunter said:

Thanks, I was also looking into the WIC and would I be able to hook up a copper pipe to the stainless end for a outflow to a march pump?

Click to expand...

You can make the connection. If the end of the immersion chiller is tube you would need a compression fitting to adapt it to a thread. How is your march pump plumbed? Do you use quick disconnects?

HomebrewJeff said:

I'll agree that you need to be careful when you drill, using the right tools will make the job easier, but there's no reason why even an average DIY'er shouldn't be able to drill a round hole.

Click to expand...

This is the best advice.

USE THE CORRECT TOOLS FOR THE JOB!!!!

Step bits, a good drill with torque. An 18v cordless is good, hold on cuz when is binds it will spin your wrist good. Go slow and apply steady even pressure.

Oil is a MUST!! especially if you want to use the bits again in the future. Use the spring loaded center punch. start the hole with a 1/4 or smaller bit then move to a 1/4 inch bit then to the step bit.

I took my step bit and marked the diameter ABOVE the one I wanted all the way around the bit with a black sharpie. so as you approached the size you want you know to stop and not over drill the size. That os the only danger of the step bit if you are not paying total attention.

Small rat tail files are good to clean up the burrs and get everything good and smooth before you install the rubber silicone washers and weldless fittings.

I'll throw my vote in for the step-drill (if you haven't already drilled the holes). I drilled 6 holes in my HLT, Mash Tun and Kettle with a step drill bit and it went through amazingly well and left very round holes. the other thing to be aware of is drilling holes in thin wall (relative term) metal with a conventional twist drill can leave oval holes rather than round ones.

Just mark your bit with some blue tape so you know which "step" to stop at and don't overdrill the hole diameter!