How do I fix a loose rubber top on a corny?

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Old_Brewer

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Hi all
I thinking about buying some cornelius kegs. The low cost ones say that they have a loose rubber top or bottom. What is a good way to fix these? I didn't see any fixes on the stickys. Thanks
 
Old_Brewer said:
Hi all
I thinking about buying some cornelius kegs. The low cost ones say that they have a loose rubber top or bottom. What is a good way to fix these? I didn't see any fixes on the stickys. Thanks

I'd just spend a little more for intact kegs. Considering that kegs spend half their life at room temperature, and half chilled, a repair with glue would probably be problematic.

Better yet, find some with a single metal or hard plastic handle. That's the only kind I buy now. They are much easier to connect to when you're reaching into a kegerator, and they don't foul your hands with decomposing black rubber residue.
 
Okay first thoughts.. (I repair alot of things in this world, on accident)

Loose rubber, if you are able to get a silcone or construction adhesive under there, that should do the trick, EVEN gorilla glue will.

As for the black rubber residue, use a little armor all or windex on those degrading black rubber areas.

Tonight I cleaned up Cornies and going to turtle wax them, how nuts is that!
 
something like liquid nails works. if the kegs are cheap enough, its worth it.
 
Get some epoxy, i call it double bubble, but any two part epoxy would work fine.

Cheers
 
When I used to work at LHBS, we used contact cement. Fill the keg up, and make sure it doesn't leak (only if you're gluing up the top). Lift up the loose flap, paint on some contact cement, and put some pencils in to hold it open while it drys for the recommended time. Pull out the pencils, push down the handle,and invert the keg, so the weight of the keg, (and the water inside) sets the handle.

If you're doing the bottom cap, you can figure out how to do it, it is pretty much the same process.

My personal corny, is the kind with the one screwed-on handle.

steve
 
I'll second using polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue is one brand).
That stuff is great for gluing dissimilar materials like stainless and rubber.

It does have a tendency to "foam" as it cures, so if you use too much, it will ooze out at the seam. Let it fully cure (>24 hours), then scrape the excess off with a razor.
 
Decomposing rubber? Use automotive tire dressing. It'll be a little slick to the touch for a while, but that only lasts a couple weeks. The rubber will stabilize and it looks pretty too
 
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