Turkey fryer burner timer/interlock mod

surtur said:

I just removed the whole timer box.
Only thing left is the safety valve the turns off the gas when the timer runs out..
Not sure if it is the same as others but there are two options.
The first is what I did.
1- take a short 6 inch or so piece if wire and wrap it around to hold the valve open.

2- I did a quick test and this valve is controlled by an electro magnetic switch of some basic kind.
I assume that the timer puts out a small electrical current to this switch / or as some say the heat builds up and keeps it open and when the timer runs out it releases the valve.
I attached a 1.5v battery to it and this held the valve open.
It has two wires so trial and error to figure out positive and negative. if it matters.

But for me the wire holding the valve open seems ti work.

Wish I would have tried turning it to far if that is all I needed to do.
also wish i would have found this thread before i started messing with it but the way i did it works so far.


I really liked the turkey fryer during my fist batch.. But we will see how well it holds a boil during a north Canadian winter.

Ps typing on my cell phone so many grammar mistakes I apologise for..

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meck1842 said:

My burner has a knob on it that goes off every 15 minutes. Instead of messing with it, I just duct taped the knob all the way open. Way easier.

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nostalgia said:

DISCLAIMER: Propane is dangerous. I am not a certified anything. Be careful and use your head, dammit.

I have one of those turkey fryer setups with the timer that shuts the gas off every 20 minutes. That got tiresome, so I removed the timer.

It also has a safety interlock for the gas - you have to push a button to get the gas started, then hold it until a sensor heats up. This will shut the gas off if the flame goes out.

Then when I used my new 15 gallon pot, it was too wide and reflected too much heat back onto the control box, causing erratic behavior. The interlock would shut the gas off randomly for no good reason.

I decided to see if I could bypass all that by directly threading the regulator hose into the burner body. No such luck - the body is 1/8" NPT and the regulator hose is straight thread sealed with a copper washer. So I decided before buying a new burner, I'd see if I could defeat the interlock.

When I pulled the black box apart, I saw the fitting in the following picture.

The aluminum cap on the left side of the photo was straight up and the button was straight down. It's skewed in the picture because I tightened up the threads in the body of the burner and this is where it ended up.

There was a brass tube and fitting going into the top of the aluminum cap. I removed that, then removed the aluminum cap. Inside is a cartridge with a spring and rubber washer at the bottom. It's this rubber washer that seals the gas off. I popped the rubber washer off and the spring and metal washer behind it came with it.

Then I just put the cartridge back in and threaded the aluminum cap back on. There's no need to put the brass fitting back in the top of the aluminum cap because the cap seals on the cartridge inside.

Now the burner works like a normal burner. Turn on the regulator, you get gas at the burner. Yay!

-Joe

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msa8967 said:

Was it difficult to remove the aluminum cap? The one on my burner seems very very tight.

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Irish said:

Here's that copper piece that screws in the end of the aluminum cap. This is where the wires led back to the timer in the original setup. The rounded end fits in snug with the rubber/plastic washer:

Re-assembled, no signs of leaks:

Thanks again for the original tutorial, this is a huge help.

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