Priming a March Pump

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CorgiBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2010
Messages
118
Reaction score
4
Location
Twin Cities
So, what's the trick? I have a three-keggle HERMS with a single March pump. The plumbing is 1/2 inch plastic tubing running from through-mounted ball valves. On the inside, the valves go to 3/8 OD pick up tubes. There is also a 3/8 OD HEX in the HLT, which feeds the MLT. The pump is mounted couple of inches under the keggles, and has a manifold with two inputs and two outputs.

So, when I open the ball valve to the HLT to let hot H2O flow through the pump and into the MLT via the HEX, nothing happens. I'd think, at very least, gravity would cause H2O to flow from the HLT into the manifold, and thus into the pump, but nothing happens.

Any thoughts? Would it make a difference if I lower the pump even further so the keggles have more "head"? I'm stumped. :(
 
So, what's the trick? I have a three-keggle HERMS with a single March pump. The plumbing is 1/2 inch plastic tubing running from through-mounted ball valves. On the inside, the valves go to 3/8 OD pick up tubes. There is also a 3/8 OD HEX in the HLT, which feeds the MLT. The pump is mounted couple of inches under the keggles, and has a manifold with two inputs and two outputs.

So, when I open the ball valve to the HLT to let hot H2O flow through the pump and into the MLT via the HEX, nothing happens. I'd think, at very least, gravity would cause H2O to flow from the HLT into the manifold, and thus into the pump, but nothing happens.

Any thoughts? Would it make a difference if I lower the pump even further so the keggles have more "head"? I'm stumped. :(

Yes, more gravity will help, but you should be fine without.

What you need to do is bleed the air out of the system in between the pump and the pot. I do this by loosening the connection to the pump until I see a bit of water (or wort). Just a few drips. Then turn it on and see what happens.
 
Make sure you have the Pump OUT facing up. If you don't have that then you're not going to flood the pump with fluid and it won't pump. Also, make sure if you have a valve on the output that it's open while priming so that air won't be trapped inside the pump.
 
This is how I do it....

b60d9c16.jpg


The ball valve on the far left is the breather valve which allows the air to escape before push wort through the rest of the system. I run the pump and push a small amount of wort through this valve. I then quickly turn the valve off and turn on the main out put valve above. Works like a charm. Wish I had done it sooner.
 
I wanted to be able to prime without having to break any connections. I put a stainless tee on the output side of the pump and added an acetal hose bib. Very inexpensive at McMaster-Carr and works a treat.

Just open the valve on your liquid source (usually my kettle) and open the hose bib. I put a measuring cup or bucket under the bib and run it until all the air is purged, then close the bib and pour the liquid back into the kettle. Instant prime.

If you lose prime for some reason, you can just open the hose bib to re-establish it without breaking any connections. It is very convenient.

purge.jpg


-Joe
 
Like someone already mentioned it sounds like you need to open the valve on the output side of the pump. Once you open it the tube should fill with liquid and prime. I'd think you should have enough head pressure in your MLT to force the water through the pump if the output is open.

I have to say I was reluctant to buy a pump after reading all the posts about priming. Reading the posts about troubleshooting priming and doing 6 or 7 practice runs I had it down good before the first brew session.
 
I say it's the Wife/GF/SWMBO job... hand her the hose and tell her to do what comes natural! LOL
 
Yeah, I've been opening the valve on the output side, which leads to my HEX and thus to the MLT. I would think this would have the same effect as the bleeder valves that others have suggested, i.e. gravity should make the H2O go from the HLT through the pump and (theoretically) up through the HEX until it reaches the level in the HLT, forcing out any air ahead of it. No dice, though. Perplexing ...
 
I prime all the time without disconnecting a single hose. As long as your output line (return to MLT, BK, etc.) is open, I can easily prime by just turning the pump on/off a few times.

5 seconds on, 5 seconds off, then on continually for a connection that partially has water/wort in it, or 5 on / 5 off / 5 on / 5 off / then on continually for a set of dry lines.

This method works 100% of the time for me and I never disconnect or bleed anything.
 
I prime all the time without disconnecting a single hose. As long as your output line (return to MLT, BK, etc.) is open, I can easily prime by just turning the pump on/off a few times.

5 seconds on, 5 seconds off, then on continually for a connection that partially has water/wort in it, or 5 on / 5 off / 5 on / 5 off / then on continually for a set of dry lines.

This method works 100% of the time for me and I never disconnect or bleed anything.

Thanks. That's the first thing I'll try when I get home to-nite.
 
Did my pump-cycling method work for you?

Not initially, anyway. After a lot of this and that, I think the real problem was air or water blocking the Hex (in my system, hot H2O is pumped from the HLT to the MLT through the Hex to simplify the plumbing). Once I blew back through the Hex to clear the lines, it worked like a charm! Anyway, I've re-jiggered things a bit, following some of the suggestions in this thread, and I'm looking forward to my next session.:)
 
+1 A bleeder valve is the simplest and most sure fire way to go IMO. I prefer a small 1/4" ball valve over the petcock type. I attach a hose barb adapter to the valve and run the blow off liquid into a container. Much less mess.

I'll buy that idea, what brewing in the house? I like your collection container idea, beat ya on valve cost.
 
I brew in my garage most of the time, but I also can go mobile for group brews and such. There's no problem in the garage as I have a floor drain and can hose everything down easily, but at other locations I often don't have that option.

Hell BB, the little ball valve only cost about $4. With your fat wallet, I wouldn't even think that cost would be a consideration.:D
 
I have a march pump for 6 months now and have always had issues getting it primed. After seeing this topic I watched Bobby M's video I went out and tried it 3 times on my setup and worked perfect each time time. Thanks HBT and Bobby M.
 
Few extra McMaster fittings will be on my doorstep tonight so I will rig up the purge valve and see how it goes. I too watched Bobby's Vid and it worked the first time but then I kept having problems through out the rest of the brew. I will definitely try a few times before we get the brew going... that is for sure!
 
Alchemy
It sounds like the liquid in your hex is what was restricting the return, a long coil of tubing has a lot of restriction, and the pump won't do much of anything until it is full of liquid. The bleeder works or disconnecting your tubing from the vessel you want to pump into, temporarily, until liquid passes the pump head will work.
 
Oops I got mixed up. I re read and realized I crossed the OP with you.
By HEX I meant the HERMS coil in CorgiBrew's rig.
 
So I am on my second brew with the single March and installed the purge valve like many others. That seems to work to get the initial prime but then I seem to loose prime during my fly sparge a couple of times. I then need to quickly open the purge valve to get things going again. Any ideas on how to prevent this from happening? I can't imagine setting up a more complicated system that relies on automation if I keep losing prime on my pump. I guess I can try orienting my pump head vertically but March says it is not necessary. Thanks for the help all!
 
I've found that I lose prime if I run the pump with the output valve wide open. The March seems to like it best if there's at least some restriction on the output side - I keep the output ball valve 1/2 to 3/4 closed now.

It may not be an issue since you're fly sparging and probably don't run it wide open, but there it is.

-Joe
 
What do you think the best method for finding said leak? Disconnect everything and start over with more Teflon tape?
 
You definitely have an air leak somewhere. You should be able to run wide open or anywhere in between without losing prime. You could pressurize the pump and lines with air, CO2 or even water to check for leaks. With air or gas, you could spray everything down with soapy water and look for bubbles. It only takes a tiny leak to cause a problem. I would only dismantle and start over as a last resort. Hose clamps can sometimes be the source of leaks. This is usually due to the hoses softening up when exposed to heat. Check those first.
 
I did a wet run tonight and had no issues priming my Iwaki MD-70RLZ pumps, but when I start to transfer liquid by opening and closing valves I tend to lose prime. I'm guessing this is introducing air into the lines. I also have some slow leaks that could be the culprit. I guess I should chase down the leaks and see where I stand. Its frustrating for sure!
 
Make sure you have the Pump OUT facing up. If you don't have that then you're not going to flood the pump with fluid and it won't pump. Also, make sure if you have a valve on the output that it's open while priming so that air won't be trapped inside the pump.

FWIW, this is not necessary, but can help certain setups. Both of my March pumps are mounted horizontally, and don't have issues with priming. If at first you have problems with air, I'd go ahead and give that a shot; it's worked for many people (it just wasn't necessary for my setup).

TB
 
Back
Top