Parts list for keggle fitting...

Ok.. I have a friend who works at a plumbing supply store.. he told me if i get him a parts list, he can get me those parts next to nothing...

So if someone out there has a parts list for this:



that would be awesome...

thanks!

Left to right:

1/2" female NPT stainless coupler
7/8" stainless washer
-116 food grade silicone o-ring
1/2" NPT brass lock nut
1/2" male NPT stainless nipple
1/2" full port stainless 2-piece ball valve
1/2" male NPT stainless barbed hose fitting

I would refer to those as follows.

Yuri_Rage said:

Left to right:

1/2" stainless female NPT coupler
3/4" stainless washer
-18 food grade silicone o-ring
1/2" NPT brass lock nut
1/2" nipple (I don't remember how long of one you need, probably 1" or 1.5")
1/2" full port stainless 2-piece ball valve
1/2" NPT to barb fitting

Click to expand...

Also, I use a slightly longer nipple through the keggle wall and have a washer and high-temp O-ring on both the inside and outside. It's easier to get everything to seal right that way.

Lil' Sparky said:

I would refer to those as follows.

Click to expand...

It was a work in progress...it's all fixed now, and I changed the o-ring and washer sizes.

Here are the McMaster-Carr part numbers (you can get most of this stuff WAY cheaper):

hmm... so that parts list is certainly the ideal way to do it.
However could you cut some corners by having most of the parts copper?brass?
If so which ones? Could you simply use a brass nipple/brass lock nut/on the inside and the O ring/brass or copper ball valve with a brass or copper barb fitting on the outside?

You would need some way to attach whatever kind of hopstopper/false bottom/bazooka tube you want on the inside but you could do that a couple of ways i'd think.

I'm glad this came up as I was going to go nuts and get it all from northwest brewer once I started looking at the total from McMaster-carr and want to get a pump anyhow... but now i've started thinking many things won't be necessary. For instance I see no need to put a female coupler inside the HLT if there isn't going to be anything on it and I can do the same thing with a lock nut. I was going to get a brewmometer for all three kegs untill Yuri pointed out he doesn't like his and then I thought... wait why do I even need one for the brew pot? and it would be better to have a digital probe for the mashtun so that I can see what its like at different points in the mash bed...and if I go to a rims/herms i'll likely just put the temp probe on the output before the return to the mashtun anyhow... hmm... I'll bring up RIM/HERM debate in another thread.

anyhow, my point is that it seems like we could do this all a little cheaper and wiser so as to avoid the "must have stainless fittings, site/temp on everything!" factor. While I know i'd like that... I get carried away and I won't have anything left to get grain

oh and it seems to be impossible to get stainless parts off the shelf in Seattle by the way. What is up with that? is it just so uncommon a demand that they don't bother? LAME! perhaps if it really is necessary to get them a few of us in the Seattle area that are putting things together could get it all bulk and take care of shipping together at least (and besides I have at least one extra keg as of right now).

Sure, you could go cheaper. The ones I've got are a combination of SS, copper, and brass.

Even better: spend $30 at a local welding shop and skip buying all that hardware.

Yuri_Rage said:

Even better: spend $30 at a local welding shop and skip buying all that hardware.

Click to expand...

don't you just hate it when someone comes along and makes sense
but would you just get a female coupler welded in or a nipple? I'm guessing nipples
and of course you'd still have to get the ball valves no matter what.

seawort said:

don't you just hate it when someone comes along and makes sense
but would you just get a female coupler welded in or a nipple? I'm guessing nipples
and of course you'd still have to get the ball valves no matter what.

Click to expand...

A female coupler is the way to go, I think. They weld nicer, and you have the option of putting fittings both inside (false bottom/hop screen) and outside (ball valve) your kettle.

Lil' Sparky said:

Sure, you could go cheaper. The ones I've got are a combination of SS, copper, and brass.

Click to expand...

so... no problem with brass in the pot then?
expansion/contraction issues with the copper/brass?
I think yuri is right a stainless coupler welded in is the way to go... but it really doesn't save that much if you can use other types of parts as you can easily get the weldless parts you'd need for less than 10 bucks total. Different strokes I guess, unless you can weld your own in which case it makes no sense at all to go weldless.
Good to know all the part numbers and such, as well as knowing that the metal types don't really mater.

The metal types DO matter...a little.

Some brass alloys have a bit of lead in them. "Pickling" the fittings should remove any surface lead and make them relatively safe for homebrewing. (see this link) In order to be 100% sure that you aren't leaching lead into your homebrew, use all stainless where your fittings contact the wort.

My personal take: you're not going to get much dissolved lead in your homebrew by using brass fittings. Just don't use a lead bar as a bittering addition.

Wow, what a great thread at exactly the time I need all this info while trying to do my first keg conversion. But I must be missing something cost wise:

Yuri_Rage said:

It was a work in progress...it's all fixed now, and I changed the o-ring and washer sizes.

Here are the McMaster-Carr part numbers (you can get most of this stuff WAY cheaper):

Click to expand...

I suppose to http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=19793 just $35.95.

You're not missing anything. The OP asked for an individual parts list. McMaster-Carr is known for fast service and wide selection, but not necessarily low prices. The complete fittings available at online HBS sites are usually between $30 and $40.

Yuri_Rage said:

Just don't use a lead bar as a bittering addition.

Click to expand...

Awe Fragg!!!!!! There goes my Lead stir paddle idea!!!!!! I was even going to knurl it to increase stirring surface area..

and here I was just going to stick some confrontation minis in the keg because I can't do anything else with them... wait... no one will know what i'm talking about...
ignore that man behind the curtain!:cross:

Naw, I paint mini's as well. Got thousands of em.

seawort said:

and here I was just going to stick some confrontation minis in the keg because I can't do anything else with them... wait... no one will know what i'm talking about...
ignore that man behind the curtain!:cross:

Click to expand...

Better than collecting them.

http://www.greatbargain.net/order/index.html

http://www.greatbargain.net/order/fittings.html

Great prices, andgreat service.

wow nice find, thanks for posting that.
heh... schaumburg... thats funny, I grew up in Batavia

I only need the silicone O-rings and am having trouble finding them. Would Lowe's or Home Depot have them? I couldn't find them at Lowe's but had no idea if I was looking in the right place for them and no one seemed to know what I was talking about.

The O-ring part numbers that were given are for 1/2" setups....what size o-ring would I need for a 3/8" coupler?

CollinsBrew said:

I only need the silicone O-rings and am having trouble finding them. Would Lowe's or Home Depot have them? I couldn't find them at Lowe's but had no idea if I was looking in the right place for them and no one seemed to know what I was talking about.

The O-ring part numbers that were given are for 1/2" setups....what size o-ring would I need for a 3/8" coupler?

Click to expand...

-110 o-rings are 3/8" ID x 3/32" wide - that should suit most any homebrew related 3/8" fitting.

Any suggestions on where I can get them Yuri?

www.mcmaster.com is guaranteed to have them, but if that's all you're ordering, it's likely to be a waste of money.

In TN, you may be able to find a local hardware store that caters to the dairy industry - THOSE ROCK! My hometown in PA has a ton of useful homebrew stuff available locally through those channels. Lowe's/Home Depot will not likely carry silicone o-rings.

I ordered a bunch of very large silicone o-rings through www.allorings.com. A bag of 50 of the size you want is $6.35.

Thanks! I was hoping to be able to get them in smaller number so I'll check couple local places tomorrow before I order. I also have a Thermowell for my HLT that will need some o-rings. I think it's actually a 1/4" fitting.