Another noob to ebrewing...

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jaydog2314

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ok so i'm thinking about jumping to ebrewing b/c i want to brew in my basement(as does my wife!) i'm fairly handy with most stuff, pretty good DIYer but when it comes to electrical not so much, just not as confident...i have read TONS of articles, forums and sites to get the basics down. i'm not looking to spend a lot of $ to start and i'm looking to go fairly basic at first. I have read http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ and man that is WAY more than I am looking to do but it gave me the information i needed....

SO here is my question, can I get away with this for the basic setup, been looking at highgravitybrew.com

Controller:
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/EBC-II-with-Infinite-Power-Control-269p3073.htm

5500 watt heating element for HLT:
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Heating-Element-5500-Watt-SS-276p2669.htm

4500 watt element for BK:
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Heating-Element-4500-Watt-SS-276p2514.htm

weldless fitting kti for each element:
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/Weldless-Heating-Element-Kit-p2652.htm

Or maybe even just 1 element to start, not sure...

Not sure what people think. Like I said I'm pretty handy but when it comes to electrical I'm not the best! I know there is a lot of talk about needing PIDs but personally if going without them is a cost savings I'm ok with it for now.

Thoughts? Thanks!
 
Just a thought for you. The controller alone that you linked is just a raw basic unit and hits at about $300. For that money (or less) you can build a very nice controller that gives you all the features needed for excellent brewery managment. That would be a PID & all of the other components needed including the controller box from Auber Instruments. Another plus is there are many diagrams in this forum on how to set it up. Another plus is a lot of fellow brewers are using the PID design already.

Something to think about...

P-J
 
thanks P-J yeah i've been reading the threads until i'm blurry eyed, so many options. i'm trying to find one that is fairly simple and includes what that unit for $300 has...i know that's a big cost for something that can be put together. if you have a handy link to one of these it would be much appreciated. thanks.
 
and maybe i should state that i simply looking to put a heating element in a HLT and BK, as of right now no pump or anything, just need a simple way to heat them up, i know there could/would be expansion down the road. but right now i have limited $ and i'm trying to get the most bang for my buck. P-J i find this thread but not really sure how i would adapt it to what i need:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/simple-eherms-following-pjs-diagram-w-only-1-pid-221403/

maybe you can PM me some suggestions. thanks
 
Here is one that would fit your needs. Just leave out the pump provisions to start.

As always, click on the image to see and save the full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Hope this helps.

P-J
 
thanks for the info...any chance you would have a list of the parts for this? some of it is still foreign to me, i'm very green when it comes to electrical and reading a diagram like this. that was some of the reasoning behind the $300 control box but i would love to learn and save some $ plus i like that i could plug 2 elements in and have a connection to add a pump or 2 in the future if i added that part...thanks again for your help and patience with a noob to ebrewing!
 
If you are not comfortable building your own panel, the EBC-II combined with a ranco or similar temp controller can provide similar functionality to most of the DIY PID based designs. It is not flashy but it will work.

To keep your panel design in the $300 range you need to watch costs for components like the PID, RTD probes and cables, etc but it is doable. I was able to build an eBIAB panel for about $300 including heating elements, cables, etc. Both solutions assume you have easy access to 240v GFCI power source.
 
thanks for the info...any chance you would have a list of the parts for this? some of it is still foreign to me, i'm very green when it comes to electrical and reading a diagram like this. that was some of the reasoning behind the $300 control box but i would love to learn and save some $ plus i like that i could plug 2 elements in and have a connection to add a pump or 2 in the future if i added that part...thanks again for your help and patience with a noob to ebrewing!
Ha. Patience is not a required item on my list. I'm trying to make a good plan for you so that you can make a sound decision on your choices and the direction to go forward so that you can achieve the best electric system reasonably.

I just battled for a several hours with my Excel spread sheet. I could not get it to display properly so that I could edit it for the proper parts and prices.

It will take me some more time to put the parts list together for you.

I finally got the base problem with the sheet fixed and it will take me some time to generate the new list for your controller. I have to add several new source items so that you order the correct 'stuff'.

It's in progress and will probably be tomorrow or some time on Thursday when I have the completed source list for you.

P-J
 
much much appreciated P-J, thanks!

Welcome.

Ok, here it is: Click on the link and then save the xls file to your system. The spread sheet is protected so that the items that you want to change can be accomplished. If you click on an item in the URL column it will take you to the actual part referenced.

Brewparts-Order.xls

I chose the Auber Instrument's larger project box as I am not sure that 2 contactors will fit in the small project box. It might but am not sure.

There are items that I've marked in the "X" column that I've not added to the total. They will give you some options as you plan your build.

I hope this helps you.

P-J
 
Wow guys, thanks for this!

It sparked a bunch of ideas as well as answered some lingering questions that I had.

--Nickdude
 
Ok I have a question. On the parts list, it shows one temperature probe. Is the plan to move it from HLT to mash tun or does a second come with the PID. And what would the advantage be to add a second PID if I am running a 30 amp system?
Thanks for all the help?
 
Ok I have a question. On the parts list, it shows one temperature probe. Is the plan to move it from HLT to mash tun or does a second come with the PID. And what would the advantage be to add a second PID if I am running a 30 amp system?
Thanks for all the help?
With the plan of having a HLT & BK and then using a PID for control you only need a single temp probe. It would be placed in the HLT so that you can accurately hit your strike temps. When you set your PID to control the BK you switch it to manual mode so that you can control the boil rate. This is one of the prime reasons that I recommend the Auber Instruments PID SYL-2352 as it has the manual mode built in.

The OP started out saying that he would not be using a pump up front. This suggest that a cooler will be used for the mash tun. With that said, you also do not need a temp probe in the mash tun.

Correct me if I'm not thinking this out correctly.

P-J

(Edit for some rework.)
 
Yeah I said mash tun and meant BK. Reading your reply, I was wondering why we talking about mash tuns, then I reread my question. So, in you experience with a 3 vessel system, would you use a single PID and manual control the boil or would you add the second PID. I like this setup, but I have invested so much in a brew shed and new brew equipment, I want to do it right. Sorry to highjack the thread and thanks for the feedback.

Thanks
Danny
 
Yeah I said mash tun and meant BK. Reading your reply, I was wondering why we talking about mash tuns, then I reread my question. So, in you experience with a 3 vessel system, would you use a single PID and manual control the boil or would you add the second PID. I like this setup, but I have invested so much in a brew shed and new brew equipment, I want to do it right. Sorry to highjack the thread and thanks for the feedback.

Thanks
Danny
There are a bunch of "depends" for an answer. For the system that I drew in this thread, the power feed is 240V-30A. With that setup you cannot do back to back batches and therefore only one element can be powered at one time. This simply means that there is no need for a second PID to be placed as it would end up controlling nothing. If you wanted to simply monitor temperature somewhere, why throw more than $90 away for that function with a second PID and temperature probe? Just use a standard thermometer.

Think about it.

P-J
 
Some great info. And a big thank for the parts list I hope to go over it in detail tonight and start ordering to build. Thanks again P-J
 
P-J going thru the list and it's great thanks a lot I can't wait to order up some of the equipment to get this eBrewery rolling...BUT I do have another noob electrical question, i'm learning a lot but i'm a little stuck, on the diagram where the 4 wire cord comes in it goes to those little grey boxes, what are those? and where do those 1 & 10 amp fuses go? sorry if that is a basic question I should know. thanks again.

EDIT: I'm assuming some sort of splitter?
 
P-J going thru the list and it's great thanks a lot I can't wait to order up some of the equipment to get this eBrewery rolling...BUT I do have another noob electrical question, i'm learning a lot but i'm a little stuck, on the diagram where the 4 wire cord comes in it goes to those little grey boxes, what are those? and where do those 1 & 10 amp fuses go? sorry if that is a basic question I should know. thanks again.

EDIT: I'm assuming some sort of splitter?

Those little grey boxes are contactors. Think of them as high power switches. They are "switched on" when a voltage is applied to the magnetic coil which throws the switch.

As for the fuses, there are many choices. I ended up with the panel mount type that have the screw cap. It makes it easier to replace blown fuses. Originally, I was going to go with inline fuses but I thought it was more work to wire them in and replacing fuses meant opening the controller to gain access.
 
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