Jaybird's Stainless False Bottoms

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Jay, here comes one from left-field. I have an old converted keg, that I used many years ago as an MLT, but it had a mickey-mouse screen that sat on top af a set of pins, about 2" above the bottom of the tank. I could never get the screen to seal right, and there was too much dead-space below the screen, in any event. I currently use another converted keg-tank, for both the MLT & BK, but for reasons I will go into in a separate thread, I need to add a separate BK to my setup. The BIG problem, is that the dip-tube inside the tank consists of an SS 1/2" nipple to the center of the tank, an elbow & a short 1/2" nipple to about 1/4" from the bottom. If possible, I would like to keep the dip-tube as-is ( i.e. non-removeable ). Soooo-- first question, when installing your FB, does it fold hinge-up, hinge-down, or no difference? Second, do you have any "scraps" from a larger ( than 15" model ) that could be used, as a "quarter-round" piece? The total assembly would then consist of a half-round part, with two hinges attached, a 15" dia. quarter-round piece attached to 1/2 of the half-round part, and a second 1/4 round piece with a 1/4-1/2" tab on one straight surface, so as to overlap the other 1/4 round part? That way I could insert the assembly in from the top of the keg, then wrap it around the 1/2" pipe, without removing the pipe ( no laughing, please ).
 
Jay, here comes one from left-field. I have an old converted keg, that I used many years ago as an MLT, but it had a mickey-mouse screen that sat on top af a set of pins, about 2" above the bottom of the tank. I could never get the screen to seal right, and there was too much dead-space below the screen, in any event. I currently use another converted keg-tank, for both the MLT & BK, but for reasons I will go into in a separate thread, I need to add a separate BK to my setup. The BIG problem, is that the dip-tube inside the tank consists of an SS 1/2" nipple to the center of the tank, an elbow & a short 1/2" nipple to about 1/4" from the bottom. If possible, I would like to keep the dip-tube as-is ( i.e. non-removeable ). Soooo-- first question, when installing your FB, does it fold hinge-up, hinge-down, or no difference? Second, do you have any "scraps" from a larger ( than 15" model ) that could be used, as a "quarter-round" piece? The total assembly would then consist of a half-round part, with two hinges attached, a 15" dia. quarter-round piece attached to 1/2 of the half-round part, and a second 1/4 round piece with a 1/4-1/2" tab on one straight surface, so as to overlap the other 1/4 round part? That way I could insert the assembly in from the top of the keg, then wrap it around the 1/2" pipe, without removing the pipe ( no laughing, please ).






YES! :D
Brother I built cheese molds from this stuff for a guy here on HBT, we can build your false bottom design, no problem
Call me tomorrow at the store 530 243 BEER. We can discuss your situation, and build a false bottom to fit your kettle.
Cheers
Jay
 
Jay, thanks for the update. I get the impression, from reading the posts on this thread, that most of your customers are putting your FB's into converted kegs. I measured my old keggle today, and found that the interior diameter is "almost" exactly 15". Is your "standard" FB exactly 15", or slightly smaller? When I look down the hole of my keg, I note several small dents, right at the weld-line. I'm afraid a true 15-incher will not fit snugly at the weld-line, and trub will squeeze through. BTW, my current combo MLT/BK has a domed ( 5/8" h ) screen, 11-1/2" diameter, with integral dip-tube ( 1/4" ), all SS. It just fits through the 11-1/2" circular cut-out in the top of the keg. The perfs in the screen are 3/16", on 1/8" centers. I have had it so long, I can't remember who fabbed it up for me, but it does a great job keeping the grain ( and flour ) out of the wort during vorlauf, and also keeps most of the spent pellet hops out of the wort during cool-down. I use an external counter-flow chiller, rather than an immersion chiller.
Do you assemble your FBs with SS pop-rivets? It occurs to me, that a simpler fab of a 3-piece FB, might be to simply shear one of the two half-circle pieces into quarters, then rivet a small rectangular piece to one of the quarters, to achieve the overlap (??).
D-Dog
 
How thick are your FB, I found some online that average one to one point two millimeter thick.
 
Jay, thanks for the update. I get the impression, from reading the posts on this thread, that most of your customers are putting your FB's into converted kegs. I measured my old keggle today, and found that the interior diameter is "almost" exactly 15". Is your "standard" FB exactly 15", or slightly smaller? When I look down the hole of my keg, I note several small dents, right at the weld-line. I'm afraid a true 15-incher will not fit snugly at the weld-line, and trub will squeeze through. BTW, my current combo MLT/BK has a domed ( 5/8" h ) screen, 11-1/2" diameter, with integral dip-tube ( 1/4" ), all SS. It just fits through the 11-1/2" circular cut-out in the top of the keg. The perfs in the screen are 3/16", on 1/8" centers. I have had it so long, I can't remember who fabbed it up for me, but it does a great job keeping the grain ( and flour ) out of the wort during vorlauf, and also keeps most of the spent pellet hops out of the wort during cool-down. I use an external counter-flow chiller, rather than an immersion chiller.
Do you assemble your FBs with SS pop-rivets? It occurs to me, that a simpler fab of a 3-piece FB, might be to simply shear one of the two half-circle pieces into quarters, then rivet a small rectangular piece to one of the quarters, to achieve the overlap (??).
D-Dog
This is kind of what I was thinking. I weld everything together. So all I would have to do is weld a tab on one side of the FB then on one side of the 1/2 and your good to go. I get these cut @ 14 7/8 then during cleaning them up they end up @ 14 3/4 so they sit on the radius of the kettle.

How thick are your FB, I found some online that average one to one point two millimeter thick.
the ones I build are 16 ga. They are really beefy (is that a word?):D
 
I have not done anything to my kegs yet. What would you recommend for the cut out size? Also, would you recommend a weldless kit or welded fittings to go along with your false bottom?
 
I have not done anything to my kegs yet. What would you recommend for the cut out size? Also, would you recommend a weldless kit or welded fittings to go along with your false bottom?

Cut opening about 10-12" that is really the norm. Weldless and welded both work killer. As far as dip tubes, I build to fit so really dosen't matter. I like the welded myself, but thats just me. There are several entire systems here on HBT that are weldless.
Jay
 
Jay,

Thanks for the update. Three pieces, all welded! Let me count my mad-money, and I will PM you when I'm good to go. BTW. for IslandBoy's benefit, I did a quick conversion check, and found that your 16 Ga stock is equivalent to 1.5189 mm.

D-Dog
 
Jay,

Thanks for the update. Three pieces, all welded! Let me count my mad-money, and I will PM you when I'm good to go. BTW. for IslandBoy's benefit, I did a quick conversion check, and found that your 16 Ga stock is equivalent to 1.5189 mm.

D-Dog

Sweet bro it will be fun puting it together.
Keep me posted.
Jay
 
Thanks Darkdog50. That is pretty impressive compared to some of the others I have seen! I need to start my build now. I have a friend who said he will plasma cut the two kegs and weld two fittings in for my valves for $50. Maybe I should add more fittings for thermometers and a sight glass...I'll have to check how much he would want to weld the extra fittings. Then...I will get a Jaybird false bottom.
 
Jay,

What are the FB hole diameters (the perforated hole diameters), hole centers, hole pattern (staggered, straight), and % open area?

Thanks.

:mug:
 
Jay,

What are the FB hole diameters (the perforated hole diameters), hole centers, hole pattern (staggered, straight), and % open area?

Thanks.

:mug:
Hmmm. There the size and shape that works best for FB's ;) Not really sure off hand. 5/32 hole size I will tell you that, and I build them out of 16 ga stainless.
 
I have had several requests for stainless dip tubes. I am working w/ a company here locally on pricing....I have a few really KILLER designs that I am in the testing mode on right now for boil kettles and for those of you who whirlpool.
More to come.
Cheers
Jay

I realize it's only been about 10 days since you mentioned this, but I'm in the market for a SS dip tubes/FB combo for a boil kettle. Just curious what you were working on in that arena and what the timeline looked like.
 
Hmmm !

Cyberbackpacker raises an interesting point. As I mentioned in my 1/16/10 post, the hole pattern in my "all-purpose" domed FB is 3/16" dia. on 1/8" centers, more precisely, a "diamond" pattern, with the 1/8" dim. on the long axis of the diamond. Have any of you long-time equipment mavens done a comparative study, on the best pattern to use, for both optimum vorlauffing & sparging? I realize that that is a loaded question, as the rate of run-off materially affects ability of the screen to trap chaff, flour & pellet-hop residue, and avoid mash compaction. I currently use ball-valve metered run-off, with matched ( pump-rate) sparge. I will be soon converting to a dual-pump matched sparge/run-off.

D-Dog
 
I realize it's only been about 10 days since you mentioned this, but I'm in the market for a SS dip tubes/FB combo for a boil kettle. Just curious what you were working on in that arena and what the timeline looked like.

I am looking at about a week out for the material to get to my store. I will post up some picts when I get them in stock.
Cheers
Jay
 
I finally got a chance to use your false bottom Jaybird and it worked great. It was also my first time mashing in a keg so it was also a learning experience but the false bottom did its job flawlessly.

Thanks!

Now off to figure out how to insulate the keg
 
I finally got a chance to use your false bottom Jaybird and it worked great. It was also my first time mashing in a keg so it was also a learning experience but the false bottom did its job flawlessly.

Thanks!

Now off to figure out how to insulate the keg

Oh I am sooo glad you enjoy it. You'll get to use it for looooong time to come too.


Insulation.... Hmmmm can't help ya there. My MLT still looks ghetto w/ some foam wrapped around it.:D
Jay
 
Jay,
Not sure if you have seen this thread, but was curious how much a 19 1/4" non-hinged FB without hole for diptube would cost?
 
Jay,
Not sure if you have seen this thread, but was curious how much a 19 1/4" non-hinged FB without hole for diptube would cost?

Wondering the same thing. Are you considering an element underneath the false bottom to direct heat the mash?

I really dont see why we would have to do a 19" false bottom? Looks like a 15" unhinged w/ a few tabs welded on the bottom to keep it in place will sit right on that ledge. I will respond tomorrow or later on tonigh w/ some prices for a 19 1/4". I will have to work it out when I get to the store tonight.
That thing is pretty cool though.
Jay
 
My thinking was to be able to drain the entire grainbed evenly. Would probably add some legs to raise it off that outer lip just enough so fluid could flow under it.
 
Ok, now I'm puzzled JayBird...you say yu can direct heat with you 15in FB; but, I just was reading Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide where he says you can't. (Page 77 if you're curious). Why would I be able to, or not, direct heat my mash tun?
 
Ok, now I'm puzzled JayBird...you say yu can direct heat with you 15in FB; but, I just was reading Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide where he says you can't. (Page 77 if you're curious). Why would I be able to, or not, direct heat my mash tun?

I have direct heated mine with NG burners since the day I added JB's FB's. Just need to recirculate when you are doing it or the wort can boil beneath the FB.
 
Ok, so keep a lower flame, stir, and you're good. Thanks.

Myself, I don't stir. Once I cover with the lid it stays on the entire 60 minute mash. I use a March pump to draw wort from the ball valve at the bottom and pump it up to an inlet at the top. I start the recirculation when I start my burner which is when the temp drops 2 degrees below my set mash temp. Then I shut the burner off when it gets back to my target mash temp.

For example: If my mash temp is 155 when I start my mash I will start the burner AND the recirculation (pump) when it drops to 153. Then I will shut the burner off at 155 again, BUT leave the pump (recirculation) going. I repeat this (usually 3-4 times during the course of a 60 minute mash depending on the outside air temperature.
 
ya I wouldn't stir really, I mean it's not going to hurt anything but you do need to keep the wort in motion while heating like Yambor44 has mentioned. YOu want to keep the wort in motion so it dosent boil under the FB and under the grain bed.

As for stainless diptubes. My copper and brass ones are $22.00 shipped when you buy a FB and they get shipped at the same time. I am going to sell the stainless ones for $35 same deal.
Cheers
Jay
 
Projectman your PM box is full
I have your numbers. I'll call you later on in the day. But empty it out and I will shoot you my PayPal account info.
Cheers
Jay
 
I have it built and it is out for testing right now. I am not really sure when exactly I will have it back and brewery tested. But I will tell you this. If it works, and you like to whirlpool but your not patient enough to wait the 30 min for the cone to settle. This is going to help a bunch.
Cheers
Jay
 
I need to get better pictures but here it is.

P1050699.JPG


P1050700.JPG


works like a charm, thanks Jaybird.
 
I need to get better pictures but here it is.

P1050699.JPG


P1050700.JPG


works like a charm, thanks Jaybird.

Sweet man. I am glad you had a chance to try it out. Where are you getting that blue arm in your boil kettle. I have seen several post on the stuff and never really given it any thought. But I am puting together a new 26 gallon system and I think that stuff will work killer for it.
Cheers
Jay
 
Sweet man. I am glad you had a chance to try it out. Where are you getting that blue arm in your boil kettle. I have seen several post on the stuff and never really given it any thought. But I am puting together a new 26 gallon system and I think that stuff will work killer for it.
Cheers
Jay

It's called lock line and can be found here:

http://www.modularhose.com/

or at mcmaster too if you already have an order going but is cheaper at the website above.
 
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