CornyKeg.com recommends not using an alkaline based cleaner because of the anodization on the ball locks, have you had any problems with this?
I haven't, but then again I also limit contact. Kegs should be relatively easy to clean; they don't have a lot of crud in them like primaries, they shouldn't have extended contact like (some) secondaries, etc. It should just be clean beer in them. I've done oxy before, but really it's not necessary. Here's my procedure:
1) De-pressurize keg, open it, dump any remaining contents (shouldn't be any if the dip tube is centered properly).
2) Fill 1/2 way with hot water, close it (pressurize with about 10 PSI if necessary to maintain seal), then shake it for a couple of minutes. De-pressurize, open, and dump.
3) Attach the keg cleaner I built (commercial version linked in my post), turn the keg upside-down, and run hot water through for several minutes.
4) Turn keg rightside up, and let the keg fill up with hot water. Let it overflow for several minutes.
5) Empty the keg (tip: disconnect the gas side of the keg cleaner, and if there is still water in the supply line, disconnect it and let the connection rest on the bottom of your sink. The long dip tube will act as a racking cane and draw the water out of the keg so that you don't have to splash it everywhere when you empty it. If you do it right you can empty the keg without moving it).
6) Use a socket or straight wrench to pull off the disconnects, rinse everything with hot water. Turn the keg upside down to air-dry.
This should get your keg squeaky clean without any cleaning supplies at all.
As far as the product in the original post, I don't know if the "arms" will reach far enough to clean a sankey; those tend to be wider than both kegs and carboys.
Hope this helps!
