What are you guys using to attach silicon hoses to barbs in your mash tun?

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bkorver

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Thanks to FlyGuy I now have a fantastic 10 gallon mash tun, and thanks to Keg Cowboy I have a 12 inch false bottom. My question is what is the best thing to use to connect the silicon tube to the barbs in between the two?
 
Maybe I'm not understanding the question, but your fingers. I have the same setup and there is a small length of silicone hose (4 inches maybe) that just slips on both barbs inside the MLT connecting the false bottom to the spigot. you don't need to worry about this seal being water tight it really just needs to be enough to keep the grains out and keep the flow between the barbs.

The silicone hose can be a little rigid, but you shouldn't have any problem connecting them by hand. if you are having trouble try shaving off an inch or so from the hose.
 
I use stainless steel hose clamps to secure the tubing and make sure it won't be dislodged by stirring. The connections need to be airtight to allow the siphon to pull out liquid below the level of the outlet valve. I also removed the nut underneath my false bottom which secured the right angle barb fitting in place and replaced it with a sawed off piece of stainless steel coupling which reaches down to about 1/8 inch above the bottom of the cooler, so I can siphon out all but about a cup and a half of wort.
 
How often do you clean or replace the clamps? I had a SS braid in there and after two or three brews I noticed some serious rust on the clamps (stainless my ass). I am also worried that after a while the clamps will hammer in to the silicon after a couple brews because the heat will soften the tube a tich. Maybe I'm worried about nothing. I'll just try partying naked and see what happens I guess... :D

That's a good idea to add the coupling to the bottom. I'll have to try that.

Thanks for the responses.
 
I also removed the nut underneath my false bottom which secured the right angle barb fitting in place and replaced it with a sawed off piece of stainless steel coupling which reaches down to about 1/8 inch above the bottom of the cooler, so I can siphon out all but about a cup and a half of wort.

What diameter is that coupling?
 
@bkorvr
I clean the clamps and entire mash tun at the end of each brew day - haven't seen any rust - using SS worm clamps from Lowe's. I have only done maybe 4 or 5 brews since I started using those, so I'll start watching out for rust.

@E-Mursed
The coupling is 1/2 inch and the barb fitting it screws onto is a 3/8 barb to 1/2 MIP right angle. IIRC I used about 40% of the coupling (you'll need to measure for your particular hardware) - just sawed it with a hacksaw, going slowly so as not to heat up and harden the stainless steel. I didn't want to use an angle grinder or Dremel tool with a cutting wheel because I was worried that the heat would cause the stainless steel to lose its rust resistance.
 
I use the white high temp silicone hoses, not the clear low temp stuff. 3/8 barb with 3/8 ID tubing. It's very soft and pliable, slips on and off easily, no clamps, no leaks.
 
The silicone hose can be a little rigid

You must be talking about vinyl. Silicone hose is very pliable. Also, while it is very soft, the heat won't affect it in any way. Make sure to buy the hose with 1/8" walls (there is thinner).

I use stainless steel hose clamps to secure the tubing

This works, and I use them too, but cable ties work just as well and are much less likely to damage the soft tubing.

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How often do you clean or replace the clamps? I had a SS braid in there and after two or three brews I noticed some serious rust on the clamps (stainless my ass). I am also worried that after a while the clamps will hammer in to the silicon after a couple brews because the heat will soften the tube a tich. Maybe I'm worried about nothing. I'll just try partying naked and see what happens I guess... :D

That's a good idea to add the coupling to the bottom. I'll have to try that.

Thanks for the responses.

There are generally two types of stainless clamps. On the cheap ones the clamp itself is stainless but the screw and body holding it aren't. On the better ones everything is stainless . Quite often you can tell by looking at the head of the screw, they look galvanized or plated instead of looking like the clamp's surface.
 
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