GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

If your keezer has moisture inside, then you have a problem anyway.

I wouldn't bother sealing it, especially if you're using 1x, which is likely pine and isn't terribly prone to molding. Red oak, on the other hand, can develop spores in 5 minutes when wetted.

Found the EvaDry on HBF. It works wonders for keeping the keezer nice and arid.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H0XFD2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

are there issues with the weight of the collar? would the freezer flip, if empty, and the lid was open?

You'd have to make a really heavy collar for that to happen. I'd have to really fling my 1x10 collar very hard to get it to tip over.

thadius856 said:

You'd have to make a really heavy collar for that to happen. I'd have to really fling my 1x10 collar very hard to get it to tip over.

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Same... I am more worried about damaging my collar if I fling it open than flipping it.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram or pictures of how the Love temp controller is wired into this particular freezer? I am not great on electronics, but with some input I am sure I can get it taken care of!

I added a couple of signs to mine. The Guinness one covering up the GE tag is a tin postcard that I picked up from the brewery about 10 years ago on a trip to Ireland.

Thank you everyone, especially TomSD for the guides and help. I've been silently lurking but finally decided to post my setup.

I'm running the GE FCM7SUWW with the Johnson A419ABG-3C temperature regulator and the top collar is put together with mitered 1x10's and all internal fasteners to keep it clean on the outside.

I have 3 Sankey connections, with the fourth tap saved for when I get around to homebrewing. At the moment I have a 1/6th barrel of: New Holland Mad Hatter, Great Lakes Oktoberfest and Blue Point Oktoberfest and I'm just loving it. It's amusing/dangerous how much easier it is to get beer than cold water in my apartment now.

The one issue I have is fitting some of the larger tap handles, some get in the way of the lid. I've had more than one occasion where someone tries to get it out of the way by opening the tap...with obvious results heh.

I've read a few online reviews of this freezer and there are quite a few stating the quality of the freezer is awful and it doesn't last much more than a couple years, at best.

What is the general consensus of the quality of this kenmore freezer on this forum?

adamg8504 said:

I've read a few online reviews of this freezer and there are quite a few stating the quality of the freezer is awful and it doesn't last much more than a couple years, at best.

What is the general consensus of the quality of this kenmore freezer on this forum?

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I don't see that many negative reviews. And remember -- there will ALWAYS be a large number of negative reviews compared to positives for a product, because satisfied customers rarely ever come back to comment how great the product is. Because they're too busy enjoying the product.

I would say this freezer is on par with any other freezer out there.

adamg8504 said:

I've read a few online reviews of this freezer and there are quite a few stating the quality of the freezer is awful and it doesn't last much more than a couple years, at best. What is the general consensus of the quality of this kenmore freezer on this forum?

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I've had this freezer just shy of two years and it does the job for me. Haven't had an issue.

Bought with the intention of turning it into a collar keezer per this thread but it's been serving as a ferm chamber since I've had it.

Yup. I have two of these. One as a fermentation chamber, one as a deep freeze. Both work wonderfully. Had for a little over a year now with no problems.

Mine is still going string.

I apologize if this question has been covered already or is stupidly obvious, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. I've got this fridge with no customizations other than using a Johnson Controls temperature controller with the thermocouple snaked in the back to keep it at fridge temps.

I'm looking to hard wire an STC-1000 in there instead so I can use my other temperature controller for fermentation. I've seen wiring diagrams, but is it possible to use the fridge's existing thermocouples for temperature sensing with the STC-1000? In other words, no thermocouple of my own at all?

The STC uses a cheap thermistor, not a thermocouple. I don't think you'll be able to use any stock thermistor or thermocouple or RTD or whatever the hell the GE uses with the STC-1000 unless it happens to be the same type of thermistor.

Ah, ok. So those that have installed one as a replacement for the stock control knob at the front are also looping a thermistor wire around somewhere too?

That's my guess. It does give you more control re: probe placement, a lot of people like to have the temp probe in a bunch of sand, or taped to a keg, etc.

If you find the connections for the stock temp probe, you could try measuring the resistance, you might luck out and have it be the same as the STC.

awesome!

I can't seem to get 4 kegs on the bottom. I have 3 ball lock (not converted) 5 gallon kegs, 2 of which are brand new ones from MoreBeer, and 1 brand new 2.5 gallon ball lock keg from MoreBeer. Do you really have to jam them in there or what? I feel like it's just not going to happen, but it's close.

It really is quite a tight fit.

But I've fit four in mine many times. All of mine are 1950's - 1980's rubber handle ball locks. Some Cornelius, some Firestone, a few others.

dtwhite said:

I can't seem to get 4 kegs on the bottom. I have 3 ball lock (not converted) 5 gallon kegs, 2 of which are brand new ones from MoreBeer, and 1 brand new 2.5 gallon ball lock keg from MoreBeer. Do you really have to jam them in there or what? I feel like it's just not going to happen, but it's close.

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I have the same problem, no way I'm getting 4 on the floor without some persuasion to the hump.

Glad it's not just me. Kind of a big bummer as the charts indicate 4 will fit, good thing one of my kegs is a little one.

dtwhite said:

Glad it's not just me. Kind of a big bummer as the charts indicate 4 will fit, good thing one of my kegs is a little one.

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FWIW, my charts show 4 because I've confirmed 4 ball locks fit on the floor with both of GE FCM7SUWW freezers I own.

There's also a GE FCM7DUWW, which definitely only fits 3 on the floor.

I'm not really sure what to say to those that can't fit 4 on the floor. My kegs vary in age from 1950 to 1990, various makes and models, bought in different lots from different vendors across the country. Out of the 24 kegs I have, I've never had any combo of 4 kegs not fit. Sometimes I've had to rotate them because aged kegs can be slightly out-of-round. Others have had success rasping off the bulge on the side of the rubber moulding.

Not sure what the difference could be, but 4 definitely don't fit in mine. I just worked around it with one on the hump and a 20# CO2 on the floor.

awesome build

Thats looking good! Are you going to stain your collar or paint the freezer?

ingchr1 said:

Not sure what the difference could be, but 4 definitely don't fit in mine. I just worked around it with one on the hump and a 20# CO2 on the floor.

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Justs a heads up...Upon doing a little research. I noticed that the older model FCM7SUHWW have a 22" depth.
Home Depot just dropped off my new FCM7SUHWW today and upon measuring the depth its only 20-3/8 or you could call it 20-1/2..depends how you look at it.
The width is still 37" but it seems GE changed the depth. Dont know how this might effect how many kegs you can get inside since I'm using Pin-locks. 3 on the floor and 1 on the hump with a 8" collar seems it will work out.

Also they might have changed the height but I'm unsure on this part. Maybe someone with an older model can confirm this. The New model height with LID OPEN is 30.5"

I have this same keezer. It's been awesome so far, but as yo usaid you can't get 4 kegs in the bottom. I put one on the hump and routed my C02 outside of the freezer.

SouthernYankee: You can most likely fit 3 pinlocks on the floor as I have wiggle room with my ball locks.

Banjorium said:

SouthernYankee: You can most likely fit 3 pinlocks on the floor as I have wiggle room with my ball locks.

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Yes, I can. I placed my empty 3 pin-locks on the floor and there is plenty of room even with them being wider. I just wanted to point out that GE must of made the depth change to the freezer.
If possible take a depth measurement of your keezer and see if its the 22" or the 20.5 one..

Photos....

SouthernYankee said:

Photos....

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The inside measurements are what matters. It is possible they decreased the wall thickness, not affecting the inside.

skeezerpleezer said:

The inside measurements are what matters. It is possible they decreased the wall thickness, not affecting the inside.

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I agree! GE just trying to make a smaller footprint. As long as it holds my 4 kegs...which it does. I'm happy!
Just wanted to point out the new depth...I was going to build a base for the keezer to sit on with the old 22" measurements I've seen on this thread.

SouthernYankee said:

I agree! GE just trying to make a smaller footprint. As long as it holds my 4 kegs...which it does. I'm happy!
Just wanted to point out the new depth...I was going to build a base for the keezer to sit on with the old 22" measurements I've seen on this thread.

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Good point! I have 3 of these (keezer with 3-tap tower, keezer with 4 tap collar, and ferm chamber), will try to see if they are different.

One is a FCM7SUBWW, holds 4 on the bottom. I have a 3G on the hump with a 2.75" collar.

SouthernYankee said:

I agree! GE just trying to make a smaller footprint. As long as it holds my 4 kegs...which it does. I'm happy!
Just wanted to point out the new depth...I was going to build a base for the keezer to sit on with the old 22" measurements I've seen on this thread.

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With my old GE I had no problem fitting four kegs, this new one requires some pushing down force to get four in.

I got all of this for $99, did I do ok?? Includes a A419 controller as well.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...authkey=!AOG5wD33gQnrWPo&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg

idigg said:

I got all of this for $99, did I do ok?? Includes a A419 controller as well.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...authkey=!AOG5wD33gQnrWPo&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg

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If the freezer does indeed work...that's a hell of a deal!

It does, cools down ice cold fast. He was a homebrewer, but was selling all his stuff. I thought I was just getting the freezer but he included everything else!

mdiblasi said:

Thank you everyone, especially TomSD for the guides and help. I've been silently lurking but finally decided to post my setup.

I'm running the GE FCM7SUWW with the Johnson A419ABG-3C temperature regulator and the top collar is put together with mitered 1x10's and all internal fasteners to keep it clean on the outside.

I have 3 Sankey connections, with the fourth tap saved for when I get around to homebrewing. At the moment I have a 1/6th barrel of: New Holland Mad Hatter, Great Lakes Oktoberfest and Blue Point Oktoberfest and I'm just loving it. It's amusing/dangerous how much easier it is to get beer than cold water in my apartment now.

The one issue I have is fitting some of the larger tap handles, some get in the way of the lid. I've had more than one occasion where someone tries to get it out of the way by opening the tap...with obvious results heh.

Click to expand...

Hey mdiblasi!

First, Thank you TomSD for this thread!! I will be building my Keezer next week and will certainly use many of your tips. I am going to do a dual-hinge Keezer, though, and had a question for anyone that built one on this model.
I ordered stock GE hinges, so I will have the same hinges on the collar and on the lid. I'll be keeping the weather stripping on the lid and buying new weather stripping for between the collar and the freezer. I measured and noticed that if I got my wood cut to 36.5 inches wide and 19 inches deep it may be a bit too wide on the sides and front for the stock weather stripping on the lid. What dimensions did you get your wood cut so it was flush in the back for the hinges, but also not too wide for the weatherstripping?

Thanks!

PSUbrewer79 said:

Hey mdiblasi!

First, Thank you TomSD for this thread!! I will be building my Keezer next week and will certainly use many of your tips. I am going to do a dual-hinge Keezer, though, and had a question for anyone that built one on this model.
I ordered stock GE hinges, so I will have the same hinges on the collar and on the lid. I'll be keeping the weather stripping on the lid and buying new weather stripping for between the collar and the freezer. I measured and noticed that if I got my wood cut to 36.5 inches wide and 19 inches deep it may be a bit too wide on the sides and front for the stock weather stripping on the lid. What dimensions did you get your wood cut so it was flush in the back for the hinges, but also not too wide for the weatherstripping?

Thanks!

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Can you cut it shorter if needed? I just measured mine so it would be exact and cut it.

GenIke said:

Can you cut it shorter if needed? I just measured mine so it would be exact and cut it.

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Measured it so it would be exact to what? I'd like to have a clean, flush look on all 4 sides, but wasn't sure if that's possible AND to still have a good seal with the factory lid and weather stripping. The weather stripping between the collar and the freezer I'll cut to the size of the collar and attach to the bottom of the wood (In case i need to ever convert back to a freezer I can simply remove the collar. hahahaha, who am I kidding?!).