wiring diagram

I've started to make my control panel. I'm working mainly from Kal's design, but with less bells and whistles. I'm using the BCS 460 and a single pump. Looking for input on what fuses to use. The selector switches are in the green and blue. They are illuminated but I can't wire them separately for switching and light. So the HLT and Boil can only display the coil circuit status. This should only be an issue if the relay fails. Should be okay; I think? And I plan to make the SSRs a second safety with programming since I'm not using the 3-selector. I was thinking that if I insulate the HLT. I could reduce the heating element wattage and run both elements. Or have one heating element to heat to strike and another to maintain while sparging. The blue switch/light will be wired in series with the pump. I don't have grounds or a netural to pump or power to the BCS shown. I haven't got a good way to power the BCS. I'm looking for a single plug outlet that I could mount inside with no luck so far.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i457/Dr_fumbles/wiring-ver1.jpg
Would love to get some feedback on things
Did I forget about something?

What is your power source for this? 30A? 50A?

40A so I couldn't run two 5500W elements at the same time

fumbles said:

40A so I couldn't run two 5500W elements at the same time

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No, two 5500 watt elements at ~240 pulls like 48 amps. I did not do the math, might be like 46.

i did the math 45.8333333

yea im a nerd... i was looking at this today... i am wanting to power 2 elements per pot... 4 total and power them both at the same time... i will need to pull 100A line into the box... im gona need a bigger box then i can put breakers on each element... might be an option for you? or are you running off a dryer plug/ not want to run a dedicated line?

I'm in an apartment using a range outlet

fumbles said:

I'm in an apartment using a range outlet

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fumbles: if you are on 40A and want to run two kettles at the same time, you are going to have to keep total power at 9000W or less, and you can't really power anything else except the elements unless you drop down further.

9000W will pull 37.5A when both elements are running ... IF you actually have 240V available.

240V is not a guarantee. It could be higher or lower than this, which is going to affect the amount of current you pull.

If you are only getting 220V instead of 240V, then a "4500W/240V" element (for example) is really only acting as a 3780W element and will pull 17.2A... so two of those will pull 34.4A and your 40A breaker would handle things fine.

"I plan to make the SSRs a second safety with programming since I'm not using the 3-selector" The primary safety being don't turn them both on.
Can I not do this? Program the BCS where it does not allow both to be on at once?

Should I wire my indicator lights to the coil loop or on output that goes to the elements. I'm using incandescent lights so the constant switching done by the SSRs could burn them out quickly. However, I'd like to see if the element is actively heating. What are people doing? Should I have gone for LEDs instead?

Which fuses can I use for the march 809? slow blow? I couldn't find data on the insush current.

pictures of current progress
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/21491289/wiring-ver1.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/21491289/IMG_6468.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/21491289/IMG_6460.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/21491289/IMG_6459.JPG

thanks for the responses

fumbles said:

Should I have gone for LEDs instead?

I did. LED, resistor, diode or two. You can monitor for cheap.

Which fuses can I use for the march 809? slow blow? I couldn't find data on the insush current.

I never understood the fusing issue. Fuse it for the wire. Did your pump come with a cord/plug? If so fuse it at 20A. The motor should have built in thermal protection. My (not March) does.

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.

I don't have a code book on me right this second, but I believe for Inrush current you only need to upsize your breaker by 125%, you can also get time delay breakers that will consider inrush because theyre meant for motors. I think your bigger problem is going to be where to get 100 amps unless you live in a Fresh Prince ass house.

As far as making a safety so you can't turn two things on at once, wire your first load in series with a Normally Closed contact on your second Control Relay. Wire your second load in series with a Normally Closed contact on your first relay. When CR1 coil is energized it'll open up that contact and you won't be able to turn the second load on no matter how hard you push the button!

your wiring looks cool though! The schematic you posted looks insane and I have no idea what is going on in it, but the hardwiring looks clean enough!! hope that last post helped!

Ashton: I think that would work but I already have my relays bought and wired. They are all normally open. I'd like stuff to fail open if I can help it.


Ischiavo: The pump did come with a plug, but I'm planning to have it feed off my enclosure power. So I can switch it on and off.

fumbles said:

Ashton: I think that would work but I already have my relays bought and wired. They are all normally open. I'd like stuff to fail open if I can help it.

Ischiavo: The pump did come with a plug, but I'm planning to have it feed off my enclosure power. So I can switch it on and off.

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That's my point. It came with a plug so the pump is internally protected. You would not worry about fusing if you were plugging it into a 20a receptacle. Its no different hardwiring it. Protect the wire feeding it and your good IMO.

lschiavo said:

That's my point. It came with a plug so the pump is internally protected. You would not worry about fusing if you were plugging it into a 20a receptacle. Its no different hardwiring it. Protect the wire feeding it and your good IMO.

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I'm in the camp that says that if I can spent $2 and add extra insurance to protect the single most expensive piece of equipment in my brewery, then I'm going to do it.

I use a 2A slow-blow fuse for my pump.

Walker said:

I'm in the camp that says that if I can spent $2 and add extra insurance to protect the single most expensive piece of equipment in my brewery, then I'm going to do it.

I use a 2A slow-blow fuse for my pump.

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You are right. There is no reason to not add fusing. It is IMO, redundant. The motor must have built in thermal protection. If that should fail, your fuse may save your pump. But if the thermal fails and your fuse fails......

lschiavo said:

But if the thermal fails and your fuse fails......

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Then god just hates me and doesn't want me to be happy.

Walker said:

Then god just hates me and doesn't want me to be happy.

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dude you guys trip out so much on relays failing. I've never had problems with ice cubes, even ones I've bought from this super meth head recycling place near my apartment. Either I just haven't been around enough to get burned by a bad one or you guys are way over thinking this. god wants you to brew good beer, he told me so.

live long and prosper :rockin:

lschiavo said:

You are right. There is no reason to not add fusing. It is IMO, redundant. The motor must have built in thermal protection. If that should fail, your fuse may save your pump. But if the thermal fails and your fuse fails......

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How often do you think fuses fail?

EarthBound said:

How often do you think fuses fail?

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The comment was meant jokingly. I can't think of a situation where a fuse would fail to blow at its rated ampacity.

I have however seen several circuit breakers that have failed.

Ha. My bad. Neither can I.