What Sanitisers and Cleaners are used.

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killian said:
what are you checking your ph with for the star san? do wine ph strips measure that low?
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I know people use the ones from drugstores....I would assume that if they read the same ph range, they'd work...

I think also people go by the color as well....
 
I'm just starting out and my kit came with LD Carlson no rinse sanitizer. Does the eqipment need t9o dry prior to use? Is air drying OK - any precautions I should take?
 
I'm not sure if this applies to HB, but people who allergic to shellfish will have an allergic reaction to the iodine in most iodine based cleaners. Has anyone had a problem with this? I know in the medical field we always have to ask before we use iodine.
 
justin8404 said:
I'm not sure if this applies to HB, but people who allergic to shellfish will have an allergic reaction to the iodine in most iodine based cleaners. Has anyone had a problem with this? I know in the medical field we always have to ask before we use iodine.
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That's a good question. I don't know how closely the chemistry of iodophor compares to medical disinfectant solutions. As far as skin contact goes, I would think that with the way the stuff stains, a significant portion is getting into your skin on the microscopic level which could cause problems if you had an allergy. So I guess brewers with shellfish allergies should err on the side of caution and choose a different sanitizer.

As for the innocent drinkers who had nothing to do with the preparation of the beer, I wouldn't be as concerned. The amount of iodine you'd be consuming in a few beers, even if Iodophor was used various points in production, would be on the order of parts per trillion at the most. If the allergy was that bad, just hearing the word "iodine" would probably cause problems. :D
 
I have a carboy I used to make mead in Arizona. Had it set up in a chiller bath for a few months, needless to say it ended up with hard water deposits on the out side. Dose anyone know how to get it clean again?
 
Since you're in the states try this stuff... CLR you can find it just about any store.

c5ed9b58-894f-4089-b7f5-d0e1ca989f92_4.jpg


Enhanced Formula CLR Calcium, Lime & Rust Remover, Good Housekeeping Seal, Industrial Strength, Instantly Removes Calcium Deposits From Glassware, Decanters, Tea & Coffee Pots, Lime Scales From Coffee Makers, Humidifiers, Tubs, Toilets & Sink
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I don't remember if you use it straight or dilllute...if it is diluteable I would just fill the same chillerbath you set the carboy in with enough to go just above the hard waterline on the carboy. If it's not dilutable, use a sponge and elbow grease, then rinse thoroughly after.
 
OK soaked in Star Stan all night and then went out and got CLR. tried it in a bucket diluted. while soaking in the solution I kept whipping the top with straight CLR. Deposits still there. Arizona has some hard water.
 
gruversm said:
Can CLR be used as the only sanitizer?
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Do you mean the product Calcium Lime Rust? No that's not a sanitizer, it's a lime descaler....So technically it's probably not even a cleaner...

Remember, clean first with a cleanser (like PBR or Oxyclean) then rinse, then sanitize with a santizer (like Iodophor or Starsan) then don't rinse.
 
Thanks!! So for GENERAL cleaning, regular OxyClean is OK to use? There's not another version floating around, is there?
 
gruversm said:
Thanks!! So for GENERAL cleaning, regular OxyClean is OK to use? There's not another version floating around, is there?
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I clean everything with oxyclean and hot water...I rarely even scrub anything...For example I just rinse the gunk off my brewpot, then fill it with hot water and a couple scoops of oxyclean then dump everything eles into the pot, like spoons, strainers funnels, etc. Then I stick my autosiphon in it and put the hose in the bottom of the pot and start a siphon loop to clean that as well.... I let it sit for a few hours (usually overnight because I'm lazy) then rinse everything thoroughly.

I also clean and delable all my bottles the same way....I've never had any gunk stick after using oxyclean...even mold at the bottom of old bottles.

It's best to use unscented....and the generic store bought brands like the one by walmart are fine as well.
 
I've always cleaned with water only and then used the "heavenly" star san, no rinse. I've never had a bad batch unlike my brother, who creates a tomato beer probably due his poor sanitation habits.

I think the most important thing I do that doesn't seem important is that before I put my equipment away after use, I sanitize everything. That has seemed to benefit me. It might be overkill but I never want 5 gallons of tomato beer like my brother.
 
Duffey said:
When you sanitize with bleach it's best to mix an equal amount of bleach and vinegar into the water you're sanitizing with. Bleach on its own won't kill certain bacteria unless the water has some acidity to it (hence the vinegar.)

It's important not to mix the vinegar and bleach directly, or you will end up with a nasty toxic cloud. Pour the bleach into the water, mix, then add the vinegar. There's an audio file here http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio (March 27th) that breaks it all down.

I've done all my sanitizing with bleach/vinegar and never had a sanitation-induced infection.
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1st. There are only five bacteria on the planet that Bleach wont kill and there is no chance that any of them will be in your brew.

2nd. Do not mix bleach and vinegar!
 
biohazzardbrewing said:
2nd. Do not mix bleach and vinegar!
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If you listen to the Podcast, there is a safe and effective way to use bleach and vinegar, and it is supposedly more effectivce than straight bleach....It has to be done in a certain way....Hence the posting the link to the podcast....I figure if the inventor of Starsan tells you how to do it, he must be right.
 
Gammon N Beer said:
I use, "Milkhouse Brand", Easy-San which is a, "C.I.P. Acid Sanitizer" for about $17.00 at Fleet Farm.
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Darn...I never heard of that...I just bought a gallon of Iodine solution (like Iodophor) from the farm and fleet for 12 bucks....

tell me more about this Easy San?
 
doesn't bleach have chlorine in it. doesn't bleach make an off taste? So with Star san you can bottle or keg with the foam still in you container?
 
I'm new to this HomeBrew world but after making my first batch and having it turn out better than I ever expected, I'm hooked. I've been reading these posts and decided to go down to the local feed store and pick up some Iodopher type sanitizer. Turns out they won't sell it by the gallon anymore because of the paperwork involved in tracking the sales and the cost of a permit to sell it is more than they would make in a year off the stuff. Seems the Meth labs use it. I can't imagine they care enough to use it as a sanitizer so it must be important in some other aspect. The nearest HB supply store is about 150 miles, so I do my shopping online. I can get a small bottle of 10% iodine at the local feed store and I guess that'll have to do until I order some StarSan online. I like the no-rinse concept. On a side note, small amounts of iodine will protect the thyroid gland from radiation should the need arise. ;-) .
Thanks for the all the great information.
 
Thanks,
What I found locally is Povidone-Iodine 10% (titratable iodine 1%)
It also cautions that it's not for human use. It's at a feed store. Some people don't consider me human at times, so I guess it's not an issue. :-D
Is this okay to use?
 
I am currently using One step, but after reading all of these posts I am thinking about switching to Star San. The problem is that I have read not to put anything copper in Star San, so if I buy it do I have to buy something else to sanitize my wort chiller in?
 
HBHause said:
Thanks,
What I found locally is Povidone-Iodine 10% (titratable iodine 1%)
It also cautions that it's not for human use. It's at a feed store. Some people don't consider me human at times, so I guess it's not an issue. :-D
Is this okay to use?
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I'm pretty sure that's what I use. No problems so far....I think it's becasue we use it at such a strong dillution. My Tractor Supply Store had no problems selling it to me....
 
For those of you using Star-San in a spray bottle, do you simply spray down equipment surfaces and thats it? My primary bucket for instance. Do I have to keep it wet? Or can I clean it, then spray with star-san and forget about it? It seems like it wouldn't stay completely coated, but I trust everyone's input.

I currently use Oxy to clean, and One-step to sanitize. But I waste so much one step, that the idea of having pre-mixed star-san in a spray bottle is very inviting!
 
jp1316 said:
I am currently using One step, but after reading all of these posts I am thinking about switching to Star San. The problem is that I have read not to put anything copper in Star San, so if I buy it do I have to buy something else to sanitize my wort chiller in?
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You don't need to use sanitizer on your wort chiller. Just place it in the boiling wort 15 minutes before the end of the boil and the boiling wort will sanitize everything.
 
I had some Campden Tablets put in a plastic bag and sent to me thru the mail. Since I didn't get the bottle, I have no instructions.

I'd appreciate it so much if someone would give me the instructions for using Campden Tabs - for sanitizing and while making wine.
 
orfy said:
Sanitisers.........

2) Bleach (15mL/gal) + HOT water rinse (Sodium Hypochlorite)

Description: Unscented household bleach can be used as a sanitizer and cleaner. For sanitizing, it is just as effective as Diversol. For cleaning, however, either Diversol or TSP would be preferable. Cleaning Mix 2.5 ml per litre of cold water (1 tbsp. per gal.) and follow the cleaning instructions for Diversol . When rinsing, remove all traces of chlorine smell. Sanitizing Using a solution of 5 ml per litre of cold water (1 tbsp. per gal.) follow the cleaning instructions for Diversol Cautions See above.
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I'm a little confused here.....is the 1 Tblspoon per gallon the instructions for bleach? Or Diversol?
 
has anyone used SANI-T-10 Disinfectant/sanitizer ?

a gallon is $24 and the dilution is 1/4 oz per gallon

the website is here
http://spartanchemical.com/web/webhome.nsf

but you have to search on the product name to get all the details.

Spartan Chemical Company, Inc.
Material Safety Data Sheet
SECTION I: PRODUCT INFORMATION
Product Name or Number (as it appears on label):
Product Division:
SANI-T-10
Product Number: 1210; 4800
Janitorial
Spartan Chemical Company, Inc.
Product/Technical Information:
1-(800)-537-8990
 
One other question. Any suggestions of where to purchase pure Sodium Percarbonate instead of Oxyclean which is cut with fillers? Asked a couple of places in town and got a blank look.
 
You can buy it here:

http://www.chemistrystore.com/searc...ate&Click+to+Search2.x=0&Click+to+Search2.y=0

The "fillers" that you mention are actually alkaline builders that you need to get the proper pH for the percarbonate to work properly. I did some testing 20 years ago ( I was a chemist , guess I still am.. ) and if my memory serves me correct you want a pH of 9.5 - 10.0 ( probably 10 is best ) and a temp of 160 - 180 F for best percarbonate performance.

So if you use straight percarbonate you will need a shot of soda ash or bicarbonate to get it working.
 
Dr Vorlauf said:
The "fillers" that you mention are actually alkaline builders that you need to get the proper pH for the percarbonate to work properly. I did some testing 20 years ago ( I was a chemist , guess I still am.. ) and if my memory serves me correct you want a pH of 9.5 - 10.0 ( probably 10 is best ) and a temp of 160 - 180 F for best percarbonate performance.

So if you use straight percarbonate you will need a shot of soda ash or bicarbonate to get it working.
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Wow, good info there! It seems to work OK straight, but clearly it could work better. How much bicarb would you suggest?

I started using it simply because I didn't like the cloud of dust that comes off of Oxiclean when you scoop it, or even just open the lid.
 
BlindLemonLars said:
Wow, good info there! It seems to work OK straight, but clearly it could work better. How much bicarb would you suggest?

I started using it simply because I didn't like the cloud of dust that comes off of Oxiclean when you scoop it, or even just open the lid.
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I would use soda ash ( dont buy this from an online chemistry store ), go to Walmart or some other big box store and buy pH up ( for raising the pH of pool water and verify that it is sodium carbonate ( will list in small print on label)). This is the easy way to get cheap soda ash. For home brew cleaning 1% by weight of this with your percarbonate will work. For obvious reasons dissolve each one separately, never mix dry. There is no problem with soda ash and a pH of 11 with percarbonate in solution, it will rock even better than oxyclean. Proper rinsing as always if you have a hard time getting the residual "slippery alkali" out after a few rinses a shot of vinegar will get it rinsed properly.

Bicarb wont get you as high of a pH but its better than nothing and safe and easy. Basically baking soda use at 1 - 5% will get you to 8.5 - 9.5 pH or better depending on your water.


All this being said I use oxyclean but love beaded percarbonate. The snap , crackle and pop of dissolving it bring back some good memories. Might have to order me some percarb instead...
 
Dr Vorlauf said:
I would use soda ash ( dont buy this from an online chemistry store ), go to Walmart or some other big box store and buy pH up ( for raising the pH of pool water and verify that it is sodium carbonate ( will list in small print on label)).
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Perfect, I've already got a tub of pH up.

Years ago you could buy sodium carbonate even cheaper from the laundry aisle of a supermarket, as "washing soda." No longer it seems.
 
BlindLemonLars said:
Perfect, I've already got a tub of pH up.

Years ago you could buy sodium carbonate even cheaper from the laundry aisle of a supermarket, as "washing soda." No longer it seems.
Click to expand...

You defiantly will see a big boost in performance. With percarbonate there is a pH, temp and time performance ratio. Higher the pH more O2 bleaching in a shorter time, same with temp. Of course if you let it sit long enough it will do its magic all by itself, but the combo of soda ash will destroy any attempt at kraeusen etc to cling to fermenters.
 

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