I've been using HWD Elements for a while now. I have a 5500 watt element in my RIMS heater and a 4500 watt in my boil kettle. I purchased both elements because they are stainless elements. I think I purchased one at Lowes and one at Home Depot. I also wanted to see if it was possible to scorch the wort using these HWD elements under normal conditions. So far I have run about 15 batches through my system. Mostly APAs, IPAs, and Koelschs. I have not noticed any scorching at all. Just thought I would share this since everyone seems to be so fearful of these elements.
I've been using HWD Elements for a while now.
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Sawdustguy
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This whole thing about scortching with High Watt Density elements sounds like a good suggestion for a Myth Busters episode.
SweetSounds
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I think the idea of Jamie and Adam making beer is a great idea - They could have a Mythbusters Brew Fest and invite all of us with our electric rigs! 
Cpt_Kirks
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High Density elements will scorch malt in the mash, and they will melt spots in coolers. I've had both happen trying to use a heatstick in my MLT.
However, the wort scorching is a myth. I have brewed light lagers that were as light colored as water (Light Lager = Gross, but the ladies got plastered :cross
with no noticeable carmelization.
However, the wort scorching is a myth. I have brewed light lagers that were as light colored as water (Light Lager = Gross, but the ladies got plastered :cross
with no noticeable carmelization.
Sawdustguy
Well-Known Member
High Density elements will scorch malt in the mash, and they will melt spots in coolers. I've had both happen trying to use a heatstick in my MLT.
However, the wort scorching is a myth. I have brewed light lagers that were as light colored as water (Light Lager = Gross, but the ladies got plastered :cross
I think the discussion is based around RIMS heaters.
My RIMS is based on the one you built. I don't think I could go back to gas now. If I were going to change something I would like to mount an element using a Tri-clover fitting. Would the gasket hold up to the heat?
ScubaSteve
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Silicone is good to at least 450F.....
kal
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Agreed that it's more of a myth than anything else.
There is however one very good reason to use ULWD elements over regular elements: They won't break if fired up "dry" (not immersed in water). When a regular element is fired up "dry" the element will pop fairly quickly (usually before you notice your mistake!) as there is no water to dissipate the heat. While nobody means to fire up an element by mistake, mistakes do happen. Using ULWD elements provides you with a little bit of insurance against these human errors.
Brew long enough and one day you will forget that you have your element switch in the on position when you first fire up your controlling system. Popping an element is about the last thing you want given that you've likely already milled your grain and have everything ready to go.
You can add insurance to avoid making this myself however... I have a couple of parts on order now and I'm going to retrofit my control panel such that it can't be turned on if either element is in the ON position. One extra safety precaution...
Kal
There is however one very good reason to use ULWD elements over regular elements: They won't break if fired up "dry" (not immersed in water). When a regular element is fired up "dry" the element will pop fairly quickly (usually before you notice your mistake!) as there is no water to dissipate the heat. While nobody means to fire up an element by mistake, mistakes do happen. Using ULWD elements provides you with a little bit of insurance against these human errors.
Brew long enough and one day you will forget that you have your element switch in the on position when you first fire up your controlling system. Popping an element is about the last thing you want given that you've likely already milled your grain and have everything ready to go.
You can add insurance to avoid making this myself however... I have a couple of parts on order now and I'm going to retrofit my control panel such that it can't be turned on if either element is in the ON position. One extra safety precaution...
Kal
I have already smoked one element. I have two safeties on the element now. I am using a current switch on the pump. If the pump isn't running the element will turn off. The other is a manual high limit set to trip at 180 degrees. The only time I dry fired the element was when I plugged a lamp into the outlet for the pump. This showed I had pump status and turned the element on. The current switch has saved me numerous times since I installed it. That was over 20 batches ago when I first started using the system. I am not as worried about the BK element because I am usually watching the water level to see when to turn it on.
samc
Well-Known Member
I've got my element on a tri-clover in a Sawdustguy RIMS design, so far 3 brews and no issues.
renevdb
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@p-nut: What do you have in place to stop the pump from running?
I was looking at a vertical level switches for the HLT, they are rated at 220F and cheaper then a new element.
I was looking at a vertical level switches for the HLT, they are rated at 220F and cheaper then a new element.
I am not cycling the pump. When I am sparging I am trying to mach the inflow and the outflow of the MLT. I do have a tee at the outlet to the HLT. That way I can flow what I need to MLT and the rest returns to the HLT to be reheated.
I think I may have misunderstood you. On the left side of my element you can see a manual high limit. When the water reaches 180 degrees it trips. It has to be manually reset. If I replace that with the switch you posted, it would protect my element if the water level dropped. However, I would tie that in with the safety circuit to kill the power going to the element.
JustLooking
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Found these at McMaster-Carr. I don't have a lot of electrical knowledge, but am not sure if these switches will handle the load of a heating element. Or would you use it to switch a relay? The high amp versions are pricey.I was looking at a vertical level switches for the HLT, they are rated at 220F and cheaper then a new element.
My safety circuit is 24v. The only thing it does is hold a contactor closed.
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This would go inline with the PID control signal to the SSR. It's a low voltage low amperage signal.
That is the switch we use on both our brew kettles. You should not run an element without one. everyone makes a mistake sooner or later.
Ironically, the only time I ever dry fired my element was when I was installing my float switch and testing things.
The element survived, but stunk up the garage with the smell of burnt "whatever" that was crusted to the outside of the element.
Oh.... and for the float switch. I looked at that plastic one after reading through Boar Beer's thread one time, but the thing cost like $40 or something.
I ended up using one made of stainless that I picked up for about $10-$15.
The element survived, but stunk up the garage with the smell of burnt "whatever" that was crusted to the outside of the element.
Oh.... and for the float switch. I looked at that plastic one after reading through Boar Beer's thread one time, but the thing cost like $40 or something.
I ended up using one made of stainless that I picked up for about $10-$15.
samc
Well-Known Member
Ironically, the only time I ever dry fired my element was when I was installing my float switch and testing things.
The element survived, but stunk up the garage with the smell of burnt "whatever" that was crusted to the outside of the element.
Oh.... and for the float switch. I looked at that plastic one after reading through Boar Beer's thread one time, but the thing cost like $40 or something.
I ended up using one made of stainless that I picked up for about $10-$15.
Haven't installed yet but 46515K45 at McMaster was $10.83, hopefully the right switch.
