Using 1" Camlock for quick release element?

My eHLT/HERMS build planning is coming along. I'm working out where exactly I'd like all the holes on my keg, how big, what coupling, etc., and I'd like the ability to remove to element quickly without having to unscrew from a locknut and then worrying about getting it to seal when I replace it. I'm thinking a 1" camlock would do the trick. I'd start on the keg wall with a 1" half coupling, and screw in a 1" type B (male NPT) camlock fitting. The element itself would be attached to a 1" type A (female NPT) fitting. Do you see any problems with this? I know that the element is straight thread but I also know it's not an issue. I'd probably use some high temp silicone to seal the element threads into the camlock threads. Will clearance for the element be an issue? Will the heat coming off the element ruin the camlock gasket? Anything I'm missing?!

TIA!

I looked into that possibility when doing my system. I believe I ran into an issue of food grade cam locks not being rated for our temperatures. Just curious, why not tri-clover?

If you used a silicone oring instead of the standard camlock gasket I don't see why it wouldn't work. Would you be potting the element with JBWeld or the like?

It should work....but the type of element could cause issues. If it's ULD or LD it'll be folded back and you may not be able to get it thru the camlock. Give it a try...you can buy the orings cheap from mcmaster. Great idea, wish I thought of that....mine's triclover, but camlocks are pretty sweet too.

WHY NOT TRI-CLOVER! I haven't even considered it. That's not really true. I think the reason I haven't considered it is because I'm concerned that too much of the element will be tied up in the fittings. This wont be a scorching issue because it's only water that I'm heating, but it's certainly an energy efficiency issue. Should I be considering tri-clovers for this?

Sizz, what was the issue with the temps? I'm looking at the fittings on Pro Flow Dynamics. Is the gasket the failure point? They offer food grade silicone, as well as buna-n, EPDM, and something called Viton Seal. I know buna-n is all good for food, and after reading the wiki on EPDM I'm pretty sure it's all good for food. It also has "outstanding heat resistance". Not too clear on what Viton Seal is, but it appears that it's geared toward automotive applications (get it? geared!)

I will probably pot the element on the electrical side. I'm working on a PVC solution for that end. I'll probably use a hi-temp silicone in the element threads just to guarantee a seal between element and camlock.

Is my thinking correct on the triclovers having too much distance between the base of the element and the keg wall? I'm not set on using camlocks; all i want is a quick release option that provides the easiest use and the most efficiency.

Thanks for helping churn the brain!

Tri-Clovers will likely be a more expensive solution than Camlocks, and if you're using camlocks for QD's already why not? But as some on her have demonstrated the Tri's are a very viable solution. I wouldn't think that there would be any more space left in the Tri's then there would be in the Camlocks. Swagman could probably even make you one with 1" Straight Threads if you contacted him.

If the 1" Camlock won't work because of size, folded element, etc... maybe a bushing would help to jump that hurdle?

I have a 1" triclover in my build (see my sig) and it works great. It's only sunken about 1/2" into the fitting, so no big deal. I think your camlock idea is great....it's probably cheaper and definitely quicker. I used triclovers because my RIMS is made from them.

P.S. Go with silicone, buna-n isn't rated past 200F and may give off bad flavors.

How much does a 1" Cam Lock cost? I bet it's a lot more than the tri clovers from St. Pat's.

Edit: turns out, you can get a male/female cam lock for the price of the 1" FPT to 1.5" triclover.

The camlocks are certainly cheaper, and probably faster, but I don't necessarily need to have either of those benefits. The element in the HLT will be removed after sparging is finished so I can take my time. I am planning to use camlocks for my hoses but I'm not the type of person who needs all the fittings to match.

I think I'll have to PM the Swagman and see what he can come up with. I'm thinking if I go with tri's then I'd like the tri welded to the keg. I don't see the point in having a fitting there if it's not needed. Thoughts?

You should ask for a quote on a 1" NPS to 1.5" triclamp. That way you won't have to deal with straight threads in a tapered fitting. I'm curious how much that would cost.

John at Stout Tanks and Kettles is working on a system for me that uses tri-clamp ports for elements. I think they are just 1.5" TC x 1" NPS.

The camlock solution sounds cool though, I think that would work beautifully. My advice would be to get 1.5" or 2" camlocks, with a female end on the female camlock, then use a hex bushing to reduce to 1" for the element.
Also make sure to put the male camlock (bulkhead) right through the wall of the kettle then put a locknut on it inside (or weld). That should keep the base of the element close enough into the kettle.

Why do you want to remove the element?
We brew 2-3 times a week and never have taken the element out
(have a spare set if one goes bad) Every time you fiddle daddle with it you have a chance to damage something.

the first page or two show how we set our 55 gallon kettle up

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/squam-lakes-brewery-pictures-144764/

BTW the brewery is up and running selling beer.
we currently have 6 42 gallon blichmann conicals

ScubaSteve said:

It should work....but the type of element could cause issues. If it's ULD or LD it'll be folded back and you may not be able to get it thru the camlock. Give it a try...you can buy the orings cheap from mcmaster. Great idea, wish I thought of that....mine's triclover, but camlocks are pretty sweet too.

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do you know which size of silicone oring will fit the 1" cam and groove?

Viton is a brand name for fluoroelastomers. Fluoroelastomer o-rings will be more expensive than silicone and not quite as hot water resistant. Also, not all of them are food grade. Go with silicone.

Here is a ready made tri-clover option: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

They work great and cover the terminal connections completely. You'll need to use a standard element with this instead of the RIPP elements.

SpaceCoastBrew said:

Here is a ready made tri-clover option: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

They work great and cover the terminal connections completely. You'll need to use a standard element with this instead of the RIPP elements.

Click to expand...

Nice, but you are looking at a $75 solution vs a $25 cam solution from proflowdynamics; cost may be an issue.

Additionally a number of people have reported on the fitting you link to that their is not a complete weld around the coupling, and is not water-tight.

Just something to consider.

Did anyone manage to find a 1" Camlock to 1" NPS fitting? I believe heater elements are NPS, not NPT and thus I haven't found any.

As to why, I find my fixed elements start getting covered in crud after a few BIAB sessions, probably not an issue in more traditional setups.

Has anyone tried this yet with the 1" Camlocks? I love the idea and was wondering if there are any results out there yet.

Jawbox0 said:

Did anyone manage to find a 1" Camlock to 1" NPS fitting? I believe heater elements are NPS, not NPT and thus I haven't found any.

As to why, I find my fixed elements start getting covered in crud after a few BIAB sessions, probably not an issue in more traditional setups.

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I think you'd probably have to chase the threads with a tap, I've never seen an NPS threaded camlock.

Many people are using 1" NPT fittings for their elements. I understand that the elements are NPS but they will seal. I'm wondering if the id of the camlock is large enough for an ULWD element to fit. I hope it is because this would be a fabulous solution.

this is an interesting idea. just ordered a set of 1" and 1.5" camlocks... we will see how they work. my guess is that the 1.5" are going to be better/easier to work with. they will just require a 1.5 to 1" reducing bushing as mentioned.

i bought the (female camlock to female NPT- type B) to thread the element into, and then (male camlock to male barb- type E) to weld into the keg.

havnt picked an element yet- if anyone wants to post some measurements of the diameter of their elements that might be useful. ill post the ID of the fittings when i find out.

audger said:

this is an interesting idea. just ordered a set of 1" and 1.5" camlocks... we will see how they work. my guess is that the 1.5" are going to be better/easier to work with. they will just require a 1.5 to 1" reducing bushing as mentioned.

i bought the (female camlock to female NPT- type B) to thread the element into, and then (male camlock to male barb- type E) to weld into the keg.

havnt picked an element yet- if anyone wants to post some measurements of the diameter of their elements that might be useful. ill post the ID of the fittings when i find out.

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Do you mean you ordered a type D to thread the element in to? The type B has male threads. Below is a type D.

Any reason you decided against triclover? There is no need to get that $75 fitting when you can get an element waterproof and in a TC fitting for about $25. The other ferrule and clamp are not expensive either.

SenorWanderer said:

I think the reason I haven't considered it is because I'm concerned that too much of the element will be tied up in the fittings.

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This will not be a problem if you mount the ferrule close to your keg. Look at how I mounted mine in my keggle. It sticks out 1/2". No, my element is not tri clamp removable, but it would be if I wanted it to be (I don't think it's necessary). All I would have to do is mount the element in another tri clamp end cap and clamp it to the end cap that is welded to the keg. It will stick out less than one inch.

Also, the first inch of the heating element doesn't even heat, so you don't have to even worry about too much of the element "tied up in the fittings."

my keggle:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/keg-ekeggle-conversion-pics-259848/

I'd love a Camlock option for those of us that can't weld

I bet it would also be easy enough to drill and tap the end of a dust cap but then again, I don't have any 1" taps sitting around.

iijakii said:

I'd love a Camlock option for those of us that can't weld

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He was comparing cam lock to tri clover, so I assumed he was able to weld. I don't think not being able to weld is a big deal, though. You can always get it done at a welding shop.

Bobby_M said:

I bet it would also be easy enough to drill and tap the end of a dust cap but then again, I don't have any 1" taps sitting around.

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You can get a used 1" tap on ebay for not much coin. I shopped around when I designed my keggle, but ultimately decided to mount my element in a way which did not require tapping 1" threads.

If anything the triclamp probably is more compact than the camlock. I was able to solder in the short 1.5" ferrule from brewershardware.

You still have to have a way to attach the camlock to the pot, so I don't see how it's inherently weldless.

What kind of gaskets come with the larger camlock sizes?

I just checked and the folded over LWD element won't pass through a 1" ID male camlock. You'd have to go up to 1.5". Maybe the HWD version would fit but I wouldn't use it in a kettle.

I don't think it's a question about welded vs. weldless but just another way of making the element easily detachable for cleaning.

Thank you Bobby M. That was what I was worried about. So you would have to have a 1.5" Camlock pair and a 1.5" to 1" bushing to make this work.

Well, I'd lean towards drilling and tapping out a 1.5" Dust Cap just due to cost and simplicity. I'd also only go after this if you're able to solder or weld a bare bones Male cam QD to your vessel. Making 1.5" NPT weldless would be a major PIA.