Heating Elements?

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Hey everyone,

Im looking into using a 5500 watt heating element intended for use in water heaters to boil 5 gallon batches.

The reason for looking at heating elements, is that this is part of a process automation and instrumentation class project and I want to be able to do a closed loop control for the boil.

I have no experience brewing outside of research and would appreciate any feedback.

thanks
 
after a bit of searching, I came across this website:

Cedar Creek Brewing Company - Homebrewing Electric Heatstick

I am now waiting for parts to arrive and will be trying a few variations.

Also ordered a USB Arduino microcontroller and will be attempting to interface the heating elements using relays.
Also looking at building an HMI.

thanks for the overwhelming responses
 
thanks for the overwhelming responses

After reading your original post again, you didn't post an actual question, so I'm don't know what kind of response you were looking for. Also, you're in a sub-forum that might not get much traffic.

Will they work? Sure.
Do people use them? Yes.
What pieces of equipment are they used in? Electric HLT (hot liquor tank), Electric Keggle (keg made into a brew kettle), possibly others.
How do I regulate temperatures? External thermostat controller, or via your microcontroller.

Just take some time to browse the projects and equipment sections and you'll find a lot of people have done exactly what you're trying to do. There is a wealth of knowledge on this board already, just look a little.

Yep - look for more "heat stick" setups...

Do you have enough power available for a 5500 watt element? It's probably needs 240v. If this is just a "proof of concept", then just use a 120v 1500 watt element. It will work on a standard 15amp outlet. Just my 2cents...

Also - I've come to realize that the search function is not that great, so just use google like so "electric hlt site:homebrewtalk.com".

Have fun!
Kevin
 
I have a heating question which is somewhat different. I am thinking of getting a heating base mat to sit under the stage one fermenter bucket (pail) in order to raise the temperature up to around 20 degrees C as it gets cold at this time of year in England - this is dark ale. What do you think about this idea?

Yes - others have suggested this. It may be hard to regulate to a spefic temperature.
Look up brew belt. There's another product that's like a heated blanket, I forget what it's called.
Another common suggestion is to put your fermentor in a cooler filled with water. Drop in an aquarium heater and regulate that to your desired temp.

I'm opting for the cooler + aquarium heater setup. It shoud run me US$40 when I'm done.
 
Just take some time to browse the projects and equipment sections and you'll find a lot of people have done exactly what you're trying to do. There is a wealth of knowledge on this board already, just look a little.

I had searched the forums extensively previous to posting this thread. I couldn't find anyone using heating elements for boiling.

It seems that every time I look through the forums I come across different material previously missed. you're right though, I didn't really post any specific question and was a bit vague.

Until I get the heatsticks built and working my main concern is scorching. I don't want to have to continuously stir the wort with the heatsticks.

Anyways, sincere thanks for your reply
 
Rooster,

Take into account that if you were to get a low, or ultra low density element, you can have wort in direct contact without caramelizing the wort. The actual heating will also cause the wort to circulate bringing new wort into contact with the element through out the boil. The heat will create a current. Thermodynamics at its best. Good luck. S.
 
Fair enough. Reading everything again, I missed that you wanted to use them for the boil as opposed to in the "overall process." With that said, I can't think of any threads that specifically mentioned their use in the boil...

However, there are several threads that discuss results of different element sizes (or multiple elements) and their ability to bring certain certain volumes to specific temperatures and how long it took. I assume that timing information would be of interest in planning the automation.


Are you planning on brewing a batch on the side? By hand? I'm just curious.
 
Are you planning on brewing a batch on the side? By hand? I'm just curious.

Yes, though as a college student my funds for ingredients are limited. We received a few hundred dollars in lab fees for this project and I've quickly used most of that trying to acquire all the components.

I definitely plan on continuing brewing beyond this project.

you're exactly right about the timing- I was throwing around the idea of using a pressure sensor to indicate cold break of the wort, but as for now will just be watching for it.
 
Rooster,

Take into account that if you were to get a low, or ultra low density element, you can have wort in direct contact without caramelizing the wort.

I did a search to find out the explanation of what a low density element is. Thought I would put it here for future searches/reference:

Q) "What is the difference between High and Low-density elements?"

A) A low density element tends to last longer. If you are filling a water heater make sure to let all of the air out of the water heater before turning on the electricity to it. It is a good idea to let the hot sides of faucets run for at least a few minute without seeing any air coming from the faucets before turning the electricity back on to the heater.


Q) "What does high, low, and extra low density refer to?"

A) The density refers to the amount of watts per square inch. For example, high density is rated at 150+ watts per square inch, low density is rated at 75+ watts per square inch, and extra low density is rated at 50+ watts per square inch.


I found those, along with some other Frequently Asked Questions answered as well.


Hmm... I'm wondering if a Water Heater Thermostats could be hacked/mod'd to be used as a cheap 240v relay.

/tg
 
I did a search to find out the explanation of what a low density element is. Thought I would put it here for future searches/reference:

Q) "What is the difference between High and Low-density elements?"

A) A low density element tends to last longer. If you are filling a water heater make sure to let all of the air out of the water heater before turning on the electricity to it. It is a good idea to let the hot sides of faucets run for at least a few minute without seeing any air coming from the faucets before turning the electricity back on to the heater.


Q) "What does high, low, and extra low density refer to?"

A) The density refers to the amount of watts per square inch. For example, high density is rated at 150+ watts per square inch, low density is rated at 75+ watts per square inch, and extra low density is rated at 50+ watts per square inch.


I found those, along with some other Frequently Asked Questions answered as well.


Hmm... I'm wondering if a Water Heater Thermostats could be hacked/mod'd to be used as a cheap 240v relay.

/tg
Excellent post. I didn't even think of explaining the differences. Thanks. S
 
5500 watts is alot for 5 gallons. You will need to control the voltage to stop boil over. If you use a PID with manual control you can lower the output to the element.
 
For me it's great to have 5,500 watts for quick temp rise times even for a 5 gallon batch let the PID control it on manual settings. Should you go to 10 gallon brews which will likely happen in time even higher wattage would be greatly appreciated like the use of two elements for 11,000 watts if you have the breaker, amperage and power available. Underpowered electric heating is a long practice in slow torture brewing. Elements are cheap in case a wattage correction is needed for your specific system as no two brew systems are alike or the air temps and wind conditions at time of brewing. Your temp rise time time that you think is a fast may be too slow for me hence different thinking on element wattages we may agree or disagree on.
We are on the same page with the use of electric heating vs propane, natural gas or steam.

Heck the forums administrators or moderators I believe should think about allowing us to add a seperate heating forum with sub sections to this forum for propane, natural gas, electric and steam heating. A section to go directly to for our questions and answers specific to the type of heating system we are interested in.
Any other members feel this way and how it would help you and other homebrewers?
Any administrators or moderators reading this request agree to adding a heating forum section like the Equipment/ Sanitation forum?
Thanks all for reading this reply and request, members please state your opinions on this request. If this request is off base the moderstors could remove my rquest.
 
For me it's great to have 5,500 watts for quick temp rise times even for a 5 gallon batch let the PID control it on manual settings. Should you go to 10 gallon brews which will likely happen in time even higher wattage would be greatly appreciated like the use of two elements for 11,000 watts if you have the breaker, amperage and power available. Underpowered electric heating is a long practice in slow torture brewing. Elements are cheap in case a wattage correction is needed for your specific system as no two brew systems are alike or the air temps and wind conditions at time of brewing. Your temp rise time time that you think is a fast may be too slow for me hence different thinking on element wattages we may agree or disagree on.
We are on the same page with the use of electric heating vs propane, natural gas or steam.

Heck the forums administrators or moderators I believe should think about allowing us to add a seperate heating forum with sub sections to this forum for propane, natural gas, electric and steam heating. A section to go directly to for our questions and answers specific to the type of heating system we are interested in.
Any other members feel this way and how it would help you and other homebrewers?
Any administrators or moderators reading this request agree to adding a heating forum section like the Equipment/ Sanitation forum?
Thanks all for reading this reply and request, members please state your opinions on this request. If this request is off base the moderstors could remove my rquest.

Admit it BrewBeemer! You just like overkill! You like more power! ow ya ow ya ow ya. Grunt grunt. LOL! S.
 
You will need to control the voltage to stop boil over. If you use a PID with manual control you can lower the output to the element.

Okay, I know a PID is...

A proportional–integral–derivative controller (PID controller) is a generic control loop feedback mechanism (controller) widely used in industrial control systems. A PID controller attempts to correct the error between a measured process variable and a desired setpoint by calculating and then outputting a corrective action that can adjust the process accordingly.

Which really means, well,almost nothing to me.

I know what a LOVE and RANCO are, basically a input (most often temp) controlled relay of sorts. But have not been able to put 2 + 2 together on the PID. Can someone expand a bit on this please?


I currently have been doing partial mash brewing for about three years now and want to move to a full system. I am on the verge of getting at least one, but maybe two or three 220v runs to the garage for my compressor/welder/* and would be really happy to move away from propane as well to allow me to brew in comfort year round. Plus it justifies the cost of running the electricity a bit more as well.


Thanks.
/tg
 
TimGrz,

A PID is basically a temperature controller like a Ranco or Love control with the added feature that it uses a complex mathematical equation to control the relay. With a Ranco or a Love control it take the temp and then reacts to the information. This is good but, it causes huge over shoots in temp. A PID uses math to look ahead and then make a decision on how it will react to the information it is getting from the thermocouple. What it causes is a fine tuned control over temperature processes. A comparison would be like this: A Ranco is to a PID as a shotgun is to a rifle. Both are great at what they do, one is just more precise. I hope that answers your question. S.
 
Admit it BrewBeemer! You just like overkill! You like more power! ow ya ow ya ow ya. Grunt grunt. LOL! S.

Nies; for the size of the brewing system I intend to build of 21 to 22 gallons capacity for both the MLT and boil keggles is why I want 11,000 watts of available heating power available at the boil plus a fast heat rise rate. No waiting and pissing around. Once the temps are reached the PID would control one of the 5,500 watt elements to maintain the boil temps. I do not want a underpowered brewing system when building a new system from scratch and i'm not brewing just 5 or 10 gallon batches hence the large wattage numbers I posted. Not overkill vs the volumes I want to brew. Now do you understand where i'm coming from? The HLT will be a 15.5 gallon keggle with maybe two lower wattage elements and like the boil keggle once the temps are reached a PID will control one element to maintain the MLT temps and the circulation pump. This will be a HERMS system. Once built maybe a element wattage correction may be needed for the HLT they are cheap. The large MLT and boil keggles are because I want to able to handle large grain bills like Russian Imperial Stouts that I like without scaling down my brewing batch size due to the limited size of my keggles. I have come up with 18 plus gallon mash volumes on mash charts at 1.25 qt/per lb grain. I would be happy with a balanced system were the HLT, MLT and boil kettle volumes at the end of boil allows me 11 to 16 gallons for the conical fermenter then I can have two or three full corny's for 10 or 15 gallons batches when done. Like I said before a balanced system where keggle volumes allow the correct end result volumes to fully fill the corny's be it two or three of them. Hey it's almost 3:00 am I need my nap only had an hour of sleep last night the pain pills have kicked in the screens a blur. One eye typing here. Strong pain meds, stoned without bier this sucks. Can't have both I want to stay alive.

later brewers.
 
BrewBeemer,

Twenty one to twenty two gallons of beer at a shot, some would call that over kill. You are right, in that 11,000 watts is not a lot for that size of batch. Honestly though, if you are going to go that big, why don't you go the extra mile and do 31 gallon batches? This way you could have a one barrel system. LOL, now I am guilty of overkill. Good luck BrewBeemer, I do want to see pic's of that system when you are finished. Hell, I might even be a little jealous, because there is no way I could get away with building one that size with out upsetting the powers that be. If you catch my drift. Not so much a "hates my hobby" sort of deal, but a "that cost to much" deal. On the bright side though, the SWMBO did get me a Barley Crusher for my birthday. It is awesome. I get a perfect crush every time. S.
 
BrewBeemer,

Hell, I might even be a little jealous, because there is no way I could get away with building one that size with out upsetting the powers that be. If you catch my drift. Not so much a "hates my hobby" sort of deal, but a "that cost to much" deal. On the bright side though, the SWMBO did get me a Barley Crusher for my birthday. It is awesome. I get a perfect crush every time. S.

Sean; boy did you hit the nail on the head dead center on that last reply on "upsetting the powers that be" and onward statements. On my end it's the "War Department" aka wife that I have to pass thru.

A bit off topic, in one of your photos do I see a piece of a 68-69 Triumph in the photo behind your cooler? Looks like early Norton Roadholder forks, about the same as Matchless used.
PM me when you have some time, I have a few questions and details I want to ask you.
Carl..........
 
A PID is basically a temperature controller like a Ranco or Love control with the added feature that it uses a complex mathematical equation to control the relay. With a Ranco or a Love control it take the temp and then reacts to the information. This is good but, it causes huge over shoots in temp. A PID uses math to look ahead and then make a decision on how it will react to the information it is getting from the thermocouple. What it causes is a fine tuned control over temperature processes. A comparison would be like this: A Ranco is to a PID as a shotgun is to a rifle. Both are great at what they do, one is just more precise. I hope that answers your question. S.

Gotcha. A PID is a smart controller. And as long as we don't plug it into SkyNet we'll be okay. ;)

I am guessing that there are both stand alone and computer controlled models? So are there popular choices in PIDS like the LOVE and RANCO we often see posted here?

/tg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The elephant in the room that noone mentioned to the OP yet unless I missed it is... are you aware of the power requirement of such a large element? I'm not sure if this is a hypothetical design excercise or if you really have to build it but you're looking at a large 240v breaker.
 
It's not about the size ;) The GFCI device protects you should you something happen that would cause electrical shock.

Any outlet that is within 3 feet of a water fixture (e.g. kitchen, bath) must have these by code.

The good news for you is you could run your 120 line into some type of junction box that holds 2 x 20 amp GFCI's, that are commonly available at a Lowes/HomeDepot/etc store.. Be sure to get the 20 Amp ones. They should be ~$20 each.
 
Just thought I'd throw in my experience with this thread, ad I brew exclusivly with electricity and have for about 6months now.

My HTL is one 3800W high density 240V element hooked up to a PID so I can regulate the temperature. From there the mash tun is your standard 10 gal cooler, with no heat source, but I can raise temps just fine with boiling water infusions. Decoctions do present a problem with this system, though and to do that, I have to pull off the volume and use a separate pot on my stove.

The boil kettle is a sanke keg with a 5500W extra low density, with a stovetop controller to bring the boil down once it reaches a boil. Go to a junkyard and pull a stovetop controller from an old stove, it's the cheapest 240V heat controller you'll ever find.

This does 5 and ten gallon batches with no problem. And it's a lot cheaper than propane, and it never runs out.

I've got an excel sheet that calculate time to boil or time to temp from starting temp given a wattage and efficiency.

For example 7 gallons to boil from 150 on a 5500W element with 95% eff takes 12 minutes.

Or the 11kW with 30gallons(starting volume?) from 150 takes 26minutes. Honestly, you might want to think about getting more power. 25kW would be more to my personal liking. But now we're talking some serious amps with the need of big expensive breakers and thick expensive wiring. (btw at these volumes I think electric brewing starts to lose it's appeal very fast.)

Oh and even as important as the gfi IMO, attach your grounds to the kettle. Do not do how every pos home electrician does and leave the ground alone.
 
Just thought I'd throw in my experience with this thread, ad I brew exclusivly with electricity and have for about 6months now.

My HTL is one 3800W high density 240V element hooked up to a PID so I can regulate the temperature. From there the mash tun is your standard 10 gal cooler, with no heat source, but I can raise temps just fine with boiling water infusions. Decoctions do present a problem with this system, though and to do that, I have to pull off the volume and use a separate pot on my stove.

The boil kettle is a sanke keg with a 5500W extra low density, with a stovetop controller to bring the boil down once it reaches a boil. Go to a junkyard and pull a stovetop controller from an old stove, it's the cheapest 240V heat controller you'll ever find.

This does 5 and ten gallon batches with no problem. And it's a lot cheaper than propane, and it never runs out.

I've got an excel sheet that calculate time to boil or time to temp from starting temp given a wattage and efficiency.

For example 7 gallons to boil from 150 on a 5500W element with 95% eff takes 12 minutes.

Or the 11kW with 30gallons(starting volume?) from 150 takes 26minutes. Honestly, you might want to think about getting more power. 25kW would be more to my personal liking. But now we're talking some serious amps with the need of big expensive breakers and thick expensive wiring. (btw at these volumes I think electric brewing starts to lose it's appeal very fast.)

Oh and even as important as the gfi IMO, attach your grounds to the kettle. Do not do how every pos home electrician does and leave the ground alone.

Dude, could you PLEASE post pics of your setup so we can drool over it? I'm currently working on my eKeggle but I didn't think to put a controller on it.
 
Dude, could you PLEASE post pics of your setup so we can drool over it? I'm currently working on my eKeggle but I didn't think to put a controller on it.

I too am interested in looking at your stovetop controller for your kettle. I never considered something like that. I've been thinking about programming a microcontroller to trigger an SSR.
 
iagree.gif




Not to
deadhorse2.gif
here... but being that a PID and something like a LOVE are so comparable in price, when is one preferred over the other? ...and why?

/tg
 
The elephant in the room that noone mentioned to the OP yet unless I missed it is... are you aware of the power requirement of such a large element? I'm not sure if this is a hypothetical design excercise or if you really have to build it but you're looking at a large 240v breaker.

My 2 pole 50 amp 240 volt breaker fits in my panel it's no wider than the 20, 30 and 40 amp 2 pole breakers. As far a high cost for large amp GFI breakers I paid after tax $48.92 for a GE 50 amp 2 pole 240 volt GFI breaker, THQL2150GF1. This thu Ace Liquidating Company a coupe years ago. They buy end of job extra electrical materals off construction sites at a low bid offer. Not only new but used breakers all tested before sold.

Boby_M, yes i'm aware of the power requirements of two 5,500 watt elements on at 11,000 watts when heating up. Not a single element like you posted above, a single 11,000 watt element would be a whopper. This is for a future planned system build not a just a hypothetical design exercise as you stated above.

slnies; Yes i'm wanting some BTU's heating for my system going electric heating but nothing compared to the 120,000, 180,000 210,000, 240,000 plus advertised rated BTU output burners that sound like a aircraft jet engine roaring many propane heated systems forum member use and stated using a 15.5 gallon keggle for 5 or 10 gallon batches. Those "overkill" 11,000 watts times 3.41499 converts to 37,564 BTU's and that's at 100% efficiency which will be a little less for sure like a 5% loss. I want to be able to heat and net a full 15 gallons for 3 corny's after the fermenter with a large volume boil keggle. I hate those long wait slow temp rises that I have read about on this forum and seen in operation.
Looking at the 37,564 BTU's times 95% efficiency of 35,686 BTU's looks rather small compared to all the propane burners BTU ratings
that are advertised.

As mentioned above why not go to 31 gallons, that's too large for my needs, wants and design. The 21-22 gallon MLT and boil kettles size will allow me plenty of head space above the mash and boil kettles liquid level when a 18-19 plus gallon mash volume is required. I did see a AG demo brew at a LHBS that used those 50 litre MLT and boil pots that had less than 1/2" from the top of pot with only 1/4" liquid above the grain bed then attempted a fly sparge resulting in a lot of liquid on the floor. A quick opinion was made on that system. The same manufactured 50 litre imported boil pot was used with little head space left with a boil over that followed. Another AG different LHBS with keggles I watched a Russsian Stout with a big grain bill filled to the MLT's brim, again my opinion go larger for big grain bills if that is what you like to brew. That would include me. After this second viewing I knew I would not be happy hence coming up with a 21-22 gallons design of total volume I came up with for more MLT and boil volume plus head space. My thinking it would be nice to be able to boil 19 plus gallons down and still have 16 for the fermenter. Later to fill 3 corny's with 15 gallons total not a partically filled third corny. This capacity of a brew system would allow me to make full 15 gallon net, 10 or 5 with this design. Larger manufactured kettles are way to expensive for my liking why pay hundreds of dollars on something I can make as I have the kegs besides the larger diameter of these pots open surface area vs a 10" or 12" opening cut on a keggle maintaining a smaller volume of boil off within what is needed.

I have a larger GFI breaker available if needed free besides #12 to #2/4 SOO cord handy, a couple hundred feet of each size in storage.
Welders and brewing system will take up a large amount of the large size S00 cords, I had future plans when I took these free cords home. The pack rat in me.


Below not related to OP thread reply just something I just wanted to add;
The cords were a free for the asking at the end of a 3 1/2 year job. Temp power SOO cords just dusty from car and truck exhaust in ventilation ducts 7' x 22' cement over time. As many as 7 runs x two tunnels over 3,900' long each were yanked out with a tractor and headed to the scrap yard. A state Cal/Trans highway job where time vs cord value wasn't an issue, they, Cal/Trans already paid for the SOO cords. On a multi million dollar job over 100, cords were not an issue. I collected what I wanted before it was ripped out into shreds. I took many loads to scrap with the companies 5 ton truck with my crew. Over $83K in SOO cord alone not counting the #12 to 250 MCM removed the year before for "$47K in scrap. The company wanted half plus the cost of the diesel used. Best part we were paid on company time then split the money amongst the crew. This only after the crew was scaled way down, a little greed kicked in with the original foremen and crew members. My share went to a new 251 Mig w/30A gun and two 280 cu/ft bottles owner owned for the Tig and Mig, kids college bank accounts, family Hawaiian vacation plus $2,500 for homeless battered mothers in my town. I'm not a total cheap bast**d / A-hole it comes from the heart. Easy come easy go plus karma. To spend my money on a high dollar manufacrured brew unit is where I draw the line, no way.
Moderators, if this is way off forum topic and needs to be removed do so I respect your opinions.
 
Okay, I know a PID is...



Which really means, well,almost nothing to me.

I know what a LOVE and RANCO are, basically a input (most often temp) controlled relay of sorts. But have not been able to put 2 + 2 together on the PID. Can someone expand a bit on this please?

Ranco and Love controllers use what is called bang-bang control. Temperature is too cold = full on; temperature is too high = off. No finesse whatsoever. A proportional integral derivative controller keeps track of how the system responds to a control action and uses the rate of response to take a carefully controlled corrective action.

Think of it this way, if your set point is 170F (HLT perhaps) and the water temperature has been rising 1F/sec (crazy I know) and the current temperature is 169.9F, the bang-bang controllers keep the heat on because the temperature is still below the set point. A PID controller would have been watching the temperature rise and slow down in order to minimize overshoot.
 
Just thought I'd throw in my experience with this thread, Do not do how every pos home electrician does and leave the ground alone.

[OUOTE=z98k;921881] I do not know who your are or where you live nor do I care. in my 31 years as a Union Electrician mostly Indusrtial and Commercial, residential was always a a can of worms due to home owners not knowing what they're doing I believe that statement you posted "every pos home electrician does and leaves the ground alone" This is a PRETTY WILD AZZ Statement, you live in the sticks? These are in my kind words be thankful, done with rant no reply needed or returned. This is why I never took any of those 80% pay scale residential jobs just during the apprentice programs required hours. Got my lifetime collection of mains, GFI's and breakers for my use plus what I have collected over the years
to keep my different breaker panel manufactured breakers handy for my rental properties.

Bobby_M & slines; I can't spell it out any plainer with what size system I want to build that can handle 19 plus gallons in the MLT with a large grain bill with 22 gallons total for MLT's head space plus can handle in the Boil Kettle 18 plus gallons again in a 22 gallon boil kettle for some head space allowing room from having boilovers while still having enough gallons after chilling before the fermenter. What I designed would allow me up to 15 gallons in three corny's fully filled not less even after thermal shrinkage and a couple trub and yeast dumps, I may do a 10 gallon batch and fill two corny's or a small batch to fill only one 5 gallon corny. A system without volume limits or problems before I even get this build started.
Design and build smart only once saves money and time.

Where the 30 gallon and 31 gallon full barrel came from I have not a clue or intrest including the temp rise numbers, totally useless for me.
My big 11KW heating becomes rather small in BTU's for boiling down 18 or 19 gallons with only 37,554 BTU's @100% or 35,676 BTU's @95% efficency. Seems rather small in BTU's vs those monster 200,000 BTU propane burners are producing.
I'm done with thread completly, nothing more to add I spelled it out the best I could on what I want to build. If you still don't understand those are the type of people we sent back to the hall as bench warmers.
 
I am using a PID from auber instruments that has a manual mode on it. It cost like 45 dollars.

In my boil kettle im using a 4500 watt Hot water tank heater element. In my herms HLT I use a 3000 watt Hot water tank element.

I do not not run a GFCI but my kegs are all grounded and everything is grounded well. At some point I may splurge and get one but at this time I don't see a need for it.

During my boil i use the PID in manual mode and lower it to 76 after I get a boil this keeps a nice rolling boil.

This makes everything a lot easier instead of wiring up stove controls.

I'm using 25 feet of 3/8's copping soft tubing for my coil and in my mash tun I'm using a self made bazzooka T.

I have never had any clogging in the coil at all and I have done about 3 batches now.

The only thing I would like to do it up the 3000 watt HLT heater to a 5500 or 4500 to increase the speed of my step mashes.

It was cold the other week around 40 degrees and I was able to go from 122 to 150 in about 25 minuets. Both kegs are insulated .

With a larger heater I would significantly increase the time. I just used the 3000 watt because it was given to me for free. I will probably get a 5500 watt next year when I start using the rig again.

I'm using standard garden hose QD for my rig. They work good not great but they get the job done.
I will most likely splurge next year and get some good ones.

One thing that I will also upgrade is my hoses. I'm using braided beverage line hose 1/2.

when they get hot they really loose there strength and can kink. I will most likely upgrade to a high heat tubing
 
Brewjunky,

Silly monkey GFCI's are not because you need them, they are for the "**** that happens". You don't intend to drop something electrical in water, and wires do not intend to come loose, but "**** happens". So you are clear, a breaker is to save the wire and wiring that it supplies with power, it will not prevent a killing shock. Infact a GFCI does not even ensure that you won't receive a shock, just that you won't die from it. Plus one for creating a proper grounding plane though. Brew on, dude.
 
Mind if I ask what model you bought?

Nope, I don't mind at all. SD-6C... If you want the rest I can get you that to, I would just have to go and take a look. The SD series is quite nice, it took about three months of hard bidding to get it for the price that I wanted. Completely worth it though.
 
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