Cooler Mash Tun with no drain!

Hi i have a cooler (Blue Coleman Polylite 48 Qts ) but with no drain. The wall is approximately 1 " thick. Can i just drill a hole to the place with normaly the drain is? And what i have to buy to make a ball valve system with a stainless braid? I view the kewler conversion kit on ebay but i dont know if this can work or if the bulkhead is ok for a 1 inch wall . What is the best option , get the kewler conversion with a bazooka screen or buy all the stock at a hardware store? If the best ting to do is to go to the store and buy the stuff ..... what i need ?

tanks

dennybrew Here's a link to how I did mine.The only parts needed are 3/8ID vinyl tubing, inline nylon valve, minikeg bung,toilet braid,and I used zip ties in place of the clamps.I can't remember the hole size I drilled.When you get your keg bung just measure it and drill smaller than you think you need.I ended up needing some aquarium silicone(non-toxic) to seal around mine.
Two Piece Reusable Bung - High Gravity This is the bung
In-Line Plastic Ball Valve - 3/8" - High Gravity Here's the valve.

Check this out https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/no-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design-87197/

I suspect with a 1" wall, the nipple would be 2" and you use washers to make up the slack.

In my case with the 10G round drink cooler, the walls are about 1.5" thick. I use a 2" SS nipple and it is perfect for this thickness.

I would suspect a 1" thick wall could use a 1.5" nipple. The concern I would have with using a 2" nipple on a 1" wall is that it is possible that the minimum distance between inner washer and outer washer might be >1" . If that is the case, you'll need to use oversized washers to add some thickness, or get out a dremel or something and grind something down to allow the washers to slide over the non-threaded portion of the nipple.

Either way, it's a piece of cake using the method used in that no-leak-mlt thread. I used a hole saw at low speed almost all the way, and only scored the inner wall with it. I used a razor to finish the circle inside the cooler so I would have a clean edge to seal against.

I used Bargainfittings stuff, and was super-happy with the service. I had to return the nipple because of inadequate space, and Wayne was a pleasure to work with. I'll keep going back. And the stuff is cheap!

You say you use a hole saw ... can i just drill the hole?? And what i need is a Ball Valve (1/2" SS or brass) , The nipple (1 1/2" to 2"), couple of Stainless Washer , Couple of rubber hi temp washer and Hose Barb Adapter at the end of each side ? that's ok ? i forggot 1 SS braid remove from toilet or washing machine pipe. That's all i need?

Tanks

A hole saw is a drill bit that makes large holes so yes, you're drilling it.

Lentrave said:

You say you use a hole saw ... can i just drill the hole?? And what i need is a Ball Valve (1/2" SS or brass) , The nipple (1 1/2" to 2"), couple of Stainless Washer , Couple of rubber hi temp washer and Hose Barb Adapter at the end of each side ? that's ok ? i forggot 1 SS braid remove from toilet or washing machine pipe. That's all i need?

Tanks

Click to expand...

If you use a SS braid from a hot water heater, then the ends actually have some really nice hot water O-rings that fit very well over my valve and sealed it up good.

+1 on Bobby M's "No-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design".

I am using it on my 100Q Igloo E-HLT project and it works great... Using it for both my ball valve and sight glass... I ended up finding a silicone baking dish at a local Tuesday Morning shop for $4 and made a few "custom" silicone washers to help seal it up...

Old thread but any got a general price on this project? I have a 20qt cooler sitting in my garage with no drain that hasn't been used in a while. Its just sitting on the shelf taunting me...