Preferred Sparging Method

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CTownBrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2010
Messages
708
Reaction score
837
Location
Dublin
I'm gearing up to brew my first all grain batch in a couple weeks & feel like I have the process down, except for sparging. I've read about 3 different methods & I'm not sure which is most effective for my set up. I have my boil kettle doubling as a HLT during the mash/sparge, 10 gallon converted rubbermaid cooler for my mash tun, & an extra ale pail to collect my runnings in.

1) After draining first runnings leaving about 1" water over grain bed, gently pour sparge water a few quarts at a time on a lid to disperse evenly without compacting grain bed. Continue adding sparge water & draining slowly until you reach pre-boil volume leaving 1" water above grain bed at all times during process.

2) Add 1/2 sparge water slowly & mix gently. Let grain bed settle out. Vorlauf. Slowly drain first 1/2 sparge water into pail. Repeat with second 1/2 sparge water until pre-boil volume is reached.

3) Add all sparge water slowly & mix gently. Let grain bed settle out. Drain slowly until pre-boil volume is reached.

It seems like you'd need to continuously monitor the temp of the remaining sparge water constantly for methods 1 & 2 so you're always adding 170-180 F sparge water. Plus for method 1, you'd need a way to transfer the sparge water without disturbing the grain bed so you don't get a stuck sparge. I guess using a pitcher would be easiest. Method 3 seems simplest, but I'm guessing your efficiency suffers a bit.

What would you guys suggest?
 
I do #2 (2 sparge method) however, once I don't pay that much attention to the temperature of the sparge water since the goal is only to rinse the sugars from the grain.

So, once I get the sparge temp up to 165-170F, I sparge the first half, turn off the burner on the HLT, lauter and then sparge with the rest of the water, not caring what temp it is at.
 
I do method 3 and I havent had issues with efficiency. I do however, pay close attention to the temps and get as close as possible to 168.
 
I do # 3, though I would say that I mix thoroughly rather than gently - not really all that worried about hot-side aeration. According to the analysis in the following link, there doesn't seem to be that much of an efficiency loss by only sparging once vs. twice, and I'm willing to take the hit to save a little time and trouble.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Batch_Sparging_Analysis
 
I utilize number 2 as well and concur with the opinions above.

I have my Brew Chart setup to optimize that exact process. You can utilize the link below in my signature to take a look (it's free of course). It's setup to walk you through pretty much everything from recipe design to first taste. If you download and have any questions just ask.

Good luck.

cp
 
i use to do 1(fly sparging) then i was lazy and thought that was to much work so i went to #2... my first set i get up to about 185 degrees this brings the grain temp up to about 165 depending on how much.. then my 2nd batch i typically do about 168. (hit or miss a few degrees on both)

so to answer your question #2
 
Thanks for the input. I'm thinking of going with #2 if the second 1/2 sparge water temp isn't a huge concern. Is there a need to vorlauf after the grain bed settles each time or do you just drain your runnings & move on?
 
Thanks for the input. I'm thinking of going with #2 if the second 1/2 sparge water temp isn't a huge concern. Is there a need to vorlauf after the grain bed settles each time or do you just drain your runnings & move on?

You should vorlauf each time, but depending on your filter method, results may vary.

With my SS braid, I vorlauf each time, but really have found there isn't a big need as it does a very good job of filtering the grain/husks.
 
I'm gearing up to brew my first all grain batch in a couple weeks & feel like I have the process down, except for sparging. I've read about 3 different methods & I'm not sure which is most effective for my set up. I have my boil kettle doubling as a HLT during the mash/sparge, 10 gallon converted rubbermaid cooler for my mash tun, & an extra ale pail to collect my runnings in.

1) After draining first runnings leaving about 1" water over grain bed, gently pour sparge water a few quarts at a time on a lid to disperse evenly without compacting grain bed. Continue adding sparge water & draining slowly until you reach pre-boil volume leaving 1" water above grain bed at all times during process.

2) Add 1/2 sparge water slowly & mix gently. Let grain bed settle out. Vorlauf. Slowly drain first 1/2 sparge water into pail. Repeat with second 1/2 sparge water until pre-boil volume is reached.

3) Add all sparge water slowly & mix gently. Let grain bed settle out. Drain slowly until pre-boil volume is reached.

It seems like you'd need to continuously monitor the temp of the remaining sparge water constantly for methods 1 & 2 so you're always adding 170-180 F sparge water. Plus for method 1, you'd need a way to transfer the sparge water without disturbing the grain bed so you don't get a stuck sparge. I guess using a pitcher would be easiest. Method 3 seems simplest, but I'm guessing your efficiency suffers a bit.

What would you guys suggest?

I think you're picking up on a few different techniques and kind of assembling hybrids so I'm going to address each of them and tell you what I think you're describing.

1. I THINK this is your idea of a fly sparge but there are a few issues. First, in a fly sparge, you don't drain first runnings before sparging. You vorlauf, then start sparging. In many cases, this requires you to run sparge in until you get a decent foundation of 2" of sparge water over the grainbed before you start running the wort off. Of course, manual addition of sparge water over the course of a 40 minute sparge is tedious. I'd recommend orienting your vessels to make use of gravity.

2. This is a variant of batch sparging where you attempt to make the volume of both runoffs approximately equal. The thing is, without figuring out the approximate wort available in the original mash "half the sparge" isn't necessarily going to get you there. It may actually be 1/3rd of the sparge. Instead of adding confusion here, just skip this for now.

3. This is a variant of a no sparge since you reach a state where the mash tun is holding the entire volume of wort at the same time. While this might be the easiest method you can think of, it's an efficiency hit that you can avoid.

4. Try this. At the end of your mash, collect a gallon of runoff into a pitcher and pour back over the grain bed to clarify the runoff (vorlauf). After that, drain the entire tun into your bucket. See how much you collected. Subract that amount from 6.5 gallons and THAT is how much sparge water you need. Add that volume of sparge water to the tun at about 185F, stir the hell out of it (not gently), vorlauf again, then drain that into your pot (not slowly). Add the wort from the bucket and start your boil.

This is a single batch sparge. The only true difference between this and your #2 method is that no particular attention is being paid to the relative percentage of runoff volumes. Attention here is worth a small amount of lauter efficiency but skip it for your sanity's sake for now.
 
I agree with what Bobby described, except I divide my sparge into two separate and equal sparges. It gets me a consistant 75% efficiency, which I am happy with at this point. It is also nice to know your boil off rate with your system. Bobby mentioned a total boil volume of 6.5. I need much more than this because my turkey fryer setup boils off 17-18% an hour. That coupled with the shrinkage that comes from cooling the wort would make it impossible for me to get 5 gallons of wort into my fermenter. I have been aiming for 7.5 gallon preboil. I usually have about 5.75 left after cooling and get a tad over 5 gallons in the fermentor, leaving behind the hops and break as much as possible
 
It's just really hard to know when to stop providing too much info to someone embarking on their first all grain. There are so many volumetric nuances that we can now take for granted.
 
I've done 5 gallon extract boils on my stovetop & usually boil off about 10%. Since this is the first time using a propane burner, the boil should be a little more vigorous resulting in a higher boil off rate. I'm estimating around 15% for 60 minutes. The surface area of my pot isn't that big either...guessing about 14-15 inch diameter.

I've been using BrewPal to create recipes, so I have an idea of how much sparge water I'll need, but it's hard to know for sure since I haven't used the new all grain set-up before.

Luckily, I'm attempting my first all grain batch on a recipe my SWMBO wanted me to brew for a raspberry brown. Her palette for beer isn't the best (she's more of a wino) & I'm not a huge fan of fruit beers, so if something goes wrong that hurts my efficiency I won't be too devastated on this one.
 
I think you're picking up on a few different techniques and kind of assembling hybrids so I'm going to address each of them and tell you what I think you're describing.

1. I THINK this is your idea of a fly sparge but there are a few issues. First, in a fly sparge, you don't drain first runnings before sparging. You vorlauf, then start sparging. In many cases, this requires you to run sparge in until you get a decent foundation of 2" of sparge water over the grainbed before you start running the wort off. Of course, manual addition of sparge water over the course of a 40 minute sparge is tedious. I'd recommend orienting your vessels to make use of gravity.

2. This is a variant of batch sparging where you attempt to make the volume of both runoffs approximately equal. The thing is, without figuring out the approximate wort available in the original mash "half the sparge" isn't necessarily going to get you there. It may actually be 1/3rd of the sparge. Instead of adding confusion here, just skip this for now.

3. This is a variant of a no sparge since you reach a state where the mash tun is holding the entire volume of wort at the same time. While this might be the easiest method you can think of, it's an efficiency hit that you can avoid.

4. Try this. At the end of your mash, collect a gallon of runoff into a pitcher and pour back over the grain bed to clarify the runoff (vorlauf). After that, drain the entire tun into your bucket. See how much you collected. Subract that amount from 6.5 gallons and THAT is how much sparge water you need. Add that volume of sparge water to the tun at about 185F, stir the hell out of it (not gently), vorlauf again, then drain that into your pot (not slowly). Add the wort from the bucket and start your boil.

This is a single batch sparge. The only true difference between this and your #2 method is that no particular attention is being paid to the relative percentage of runoff volumes. Attention here is worth a small amount of lauter efficiency but skip it for your sanity's sake for now.

I had assumed that for 2 and 3 he was draining the first runnings before the sparges he described, but upon re-reading, it's not really clear to me. If he's not draining the runnings before sparging, then instead of doing what is described in #3, I'm actually doing #4 as described by Bobby_M and I second his recommendation.
 
I've done 5 gallon extract boils on my stovetop & usually boil off about 10%. Since this is the first time using a propane burner, the boil should be a little more vigorous resulting in a higher boil off rate. I'm estimating around 15% for 60 minutes. The surface area of my pot isn't that big either...guessing about 14-15 inch diameter.

I've been using BrewPal to create recipes, so I have an idea of how much sparge water I'll need, but it's hard to know for sure since I haven't used the new all grain set-up before.

Luckily, I'm attempting my first all grain batch on a recipe my SWMBO wanted me to brew for a raspberry brown. Her palette for beer isn't the best (she's more of a wino) & I'm not a huge fan of fruit beers, so if something goes wrong that hurts my efficiency I won't be too devastated on this one.

Sounds like you are pretty well prepared. have fun and let us know how that raspberry brown turns out. Hopefully you can get that palette of hers turned around. My wife's has changed dramatically since I started brewing.
 
I was assuming number 2 was his interpretation of explaining a traditional batch sparge with half the boil volume coming from the initial mash and the other half coming from the sparge. That is the method I use and is quite easy to do once you get it down. Of course, the first hack at all grain isn't necessarily easy :)

Good luck with the brew.

cp
 
Thanks for the info everyone.

For #2 & #3, I was trying to describe it from the point after draining the first runnings. In #2, the sparge water would be split in 2 equal amounts, sparging with half the water first, draining, & then repeating with the other half. Sorry if I wasn't clear...tough to describe something I've only read about to this point.

The info has helped me out a lot though!
 
Well I brewed the raspberry brown yesterday. I feel like I had the process down. I just did a simple batch sparge. I think the main issues I had were related to my BrewPal calculations.

I was about 3 F low on my mash temp, so I added more hot water to bring it up to 152 F. That put me at about 1.4 quarts/lb grain. I was shooting for about 1.25/lb. I lost about 3 F during the 60 min mash.

I collected 3.5 gallons from my first runnings, so after collecting 3 more gallons sparge water to reach my 6.5 gallon preboil volume, I still had about 1.75 gallons leftover that didn't make it in the boil. The grain didn't absorb as much as the BrewPal default setting, so I'm guessing that contributed to the sparge water volume error from BrewPal. Also, I only had 10% boil off, but calculated for 15%, so that was a factor also. Basically, I used about .5 gallon more strike water than I calculated for & 1.25 gallons more sparge water...ended up with 5.5 gallons in the fermenter.

My preboil gravity was about 16 points low. Would buying grains precrushed online & using too much water cause this? We'll see where it finishes, but right now it's looking like I may end up with a beer in the 5-5.5% ABV instead of my target 7.2%.

At least I know more about my set-up now & can calculate future recipes more accurately.
 
One very likely cause of the preboil gravity being low is not stirring the wort before taking the gravity sample. Taking the gravity after the boil eliminates this issue as the boil does all the stirring for you.

-a.
 
Pre-boil gravity was 1.042, but i didn't stir before taking that reading. My post boil gravity was 1.064...I was aiming for 1.080 from by BrewPal recipe, so for some reason it was still a bit low.
 
I took my first gravity reading & it's down to 1.014, so I got a little better attenuation than I expected from the Wyeast London ESB yeast...should come out to around 6.5% abv. It will be slightly drier than I was planning, but the addition of the raspberry puree in the secondary should compensate for it.

Thanks for the help along the way. I think I have the process down...just need to get my efficiency up from 60% to the 70-75% range so I won't need to alter my recipes too much. Next batch I'm planning on a 90 minute mash to see how that ups my efficiency...maybe split the sparge into two additions also.
 
Back
Top