All stainless (weld free & JB weld free) heatstick design on the cheap

So I've been looking at making a heatstick to decrease my time to heat strike water and bring wort up to a boil. I'm not a huge fan of the "JB Weld it until it doesn't leak" mentality so I went searching for other options.

I found a thread on HBT that uses tri-clamp fittings from a still supplier here. I like this idea, but the OP on this thread said it cost him $120 for this design which is a bit steep for a heatstick IMO.

I tried costing out some other options that converted to threaded pipe to bring the cost down (Something like this). Cheapest I could get with this design was around $90 - better but still steep.

Enter my final idea - all threaded stainless fittings. I searched HBT for someone that's done this before but couldn't find anything. Has this been done before?

Purchased all parts off zoro tools.

120v 1500w heating element - $8
2" x 1" hex bushing - $13.26
2" x 1/2" reducing couping - $12.52
1/2" street elbow - $3.82
1/2" pipe 12" long - $8.93
1/2" 90 elbow (2x) - $7.12
1/2" pipe 1.5" long (2x) - 4.30

Total - $58.95

Best part about zoro tools is that they have coupons all over the web and free shipping on anything over $50. I found a coupon for $10 off $50 purchase.

New total - $48.95

I've priced out the "JB Weld" version of this and it's right around $35-$50 depending on where you get your parts. I've seen other HBT'ers confirming this. So for me, it's worth the extra $10 to have no JB weld. Best part is everyone can do it - no tig welding or extra steps required.

I know you all love pics so here you go. Still waiting on my heating element. I'll post more pics and update this thread once I get the element and test it out.

I don't think you're going to have much luck threading the element into the back of the bushing as the tapered threads are going to be their smallest diameter.

Interesting, I look forward to reading how it turns out.

Ramitt said:

Interesting, I look forward to reading how it turns out.

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Ditto

Ramitt said:

Interesting, I look forward to reading how it turns out.

Click to expand...

me also

Element (straight thread) won't screw into the back end of thread as previously stated. Do you plan to re-thread? Not gonna be easy!

I love the simplicity of the idea and I hope you can make it work.

Poobah58 said:

Element (straight thread) won't screw into the back end of thread as previously stated. Do you plan to re-thread? Not gonna be easy!

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This is correct. However, it shouldn't be too difficult to rethread this. I've done it before for other applications. What size is it? 1"?
Of course buying a large NPT tap would defeat the purpose of your lower cost design....

Please confirm the size you need and I might have a tap you can borrow. I'll have to check in my shop on Monday. I have several large NPT taps.

You'll need a strong vise and some anti-seize paste. When your done, you won't have as much thread sealing ability since you'll be overriding the original taper of the fitting. But in this low pressure, low temp application, you should have no trouble getting a seal with some good quality PTFE tape.

He's going to need a 1" NPS tap assuming a typical water heater element and gasket scenario.

I'd have to agree that it's not going to be very easy either. Wouldn't you have to drill the hole out just a bit to tap it to NPS?

I like the idea though. I hope you can make it work.

I wasn't thinking about it being straight thread, but you're right. I don't have any NPS taps though.

However, NPT and NPS have the same pitch. If the tap is run through far enough, it should thread in far enough to seat the gasket.

I've tapped reverse to the taper on NPT without any issues. Just work it back and forth slowly and use anti seize. If the tap has trouble starting in the back end, then it can be run through the front until it bottoms out. This will open up most fittings a little bit more, allowing easier entry into the other side.

I guess I should've read more closely. Straight thread was already mentioned by Poobah.
Anyway. I think it will work.

Hey Coop, I just got my heating element and as expected it doesn't fit in the back. I'd love to borrow a tap to try to re-thread. Thanks for offering! It is indeed a standard 1" heating element. Like you said I think as long as the pitch is the same the gasket will prevent any leaks. Let me know!

It will work if you get a 1" NPS tap. You can find them for < $50 on eBay if you are patient.

carkom said:

Hey Coop, I just got my heating element and as expected it doesn't fit in the back. I'd love to borrow a tap to try to re-thread. Thanks for offering! It is indeed a standard 1" heating element. Like you said I think as long as the pitch is the same the gasket will prevent any leaks. Let me know!

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PM sent.

stevehaun said:

It will work if you get a 1" NPS tap. You can find them for < $50 on eBay if you are patient.

Click to expand...

or take it to a machine shop and have them do it

S_M

Ummmmm,....... buy a plug sans the threaded hole, and drill and tap in the direction you wish the "taper" to face.

You can still use a 1" NPT tap and just run it all the way through from the back. I would agree that taking it to a shop would be the most cost effective way because a cheap tap isn't going to cut it. You'll spend $25 on a cheap tap, ruin it, and then spend another $25 paying someone to do it.

So Coop sent me a tap he had at his shop so I could give the re-tapping a shot. Worked great! Took about 20 mins of back and forth turning, plenty of anti-seize paste and a good amount of muscle for the last couple turns but I think I"ve got a working product. Pics below!

Obviously not everyone will be able to get a tap to widen the back of the hex nut. My only suggestion would be to listen to advice already given and find a local machinist and see if you can borrow a 1" tap or bribe him with homebrew to do it himself, it does only take about 15 minutes. Most small machine shops are pretty cool, found a guy in my town who homebrews himself so he's always willing to help with homebrew projects.

Next steps are to check for leaks then wiring! I'll plug it into my panel which is GFCI protected. Ultimately I'd like to connect a GFCI cord so others can borrow it without any special electrical connections or wiring.


Silicone O-Ring and tape


Installed and ready to screw in. Used a little keg lube on the o-ring.


The connection once screwed in.


A look from the opposite side


Got the holder all put together and wrenched down really tight. Ready to start testing!

That looks great! I'm looking forward to hearing how well it performs.

Got it leak tested, wired, and tested working. I'll use it in my brew day tomorrow for a full brew test but it seems great! Here's some final pics.

I drilled a hole in the top elbow for the ground plug, tightened it down with a machine screw and cut off the end that popped out the outside.


This is the final product. I went with a regular extension cord for the plug, you can see the cord grip strain relief I used here.


To make it GFCI protected I bought this at HD for about $12. This way all my buddies that brew can borrow the heatstick if they need it.


Test run - working great!

Keep an eye on it....I wouldn't trust a heatstick with a void in it. You will still get condensation on the inside of the pipe. Not to mention, heating and cooling causes the fittings to expand/contract and your watertight properties can change. At least you have a GFCI!

ScubaSteve said:

Keep an eye on it....I wouldn't trust a heatstick with a void in it. You will still get condensation on the inside of the pipe. Not to mention, heating and cooling causes the fittings to expand/contract and your watertight properties can change. At least you have a GFCI!

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Good advice!

You could always drill a drain hole in the piece between the elbows, (above the water line), as a "steam vent", and when you're done for the day, hang the setup inverted to insure it drains.

Just don't drill into your wire!

Awesome. That looks great!

ScubaSteve said:

Keep an eye on it....I wouldn't trust a heatstick with a void in it. You will still get condensation on the inside of the pipe. Not to mention, heating and cooling causes the fittings to expand/contract and your watertight properties can change. At least you have a GFCI!

Click to expand...

I'm assuming that fitting on your cord is making an airtight seal: if so you can add silica to the inside to absorb any trapped humidity. If there are no leaks, you'll stay dry inside and never have to replace it.
Look for "indicating silica". The stuff I use is orange and turns green when it becomes saturated with moisture. Add about an ounce and open it up at the cord after the first few uses to inspect. If the silica stays orange after a few checks, you can seal it back up and not worry about it anymore.
The expansion of the fittings is negligible. These are designed for super-heated steam at pressures of at least 150 psi (or higher depending one the grade of the fittings). If fitted correctly, they should never leak for your light duty application.
Great job. Cheers!

First brew day using the stick was a success. Helped boil my wort in half the time. Thanks for the advice on air tight spaces and the silica is a great idea! I'll look into it.