Gas Burners with Love TS and Pilot Light Demo

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Hold on a moment, looks like you want to use a 4" high presure burner, the pressure needed to get full output is too high for the Baso pilot safety valves. You could change to a low pressure regulator and use a low pressure orifice for the burner like this one HurricaneProducts.net - Control Valve. As to mounting a pilot to the burner I added a piece of 14Ga metal to the side of the burner to attach the pilot assembly, here is a picturePicasa Web Albums - Kevin - Pilot lights.
 
So it looks like I would need to buy two of those to hook up to my burners for the MLT and HLT. I assume that they just screw into the burner and then can be hooked up to a new low pressure hose since currently I have a high pressure hose with a 0-30psi regulator. Does that sound correct? Will it affect the length of time it would take to bring the water to a boil or should I keep the high pressure burner hooked up to the BK?

Also, the pilot burner assembly you have is different than the ones that I've seen in this thread. Is there somewhere I can look that you got those?

Thanks,
 
The pilot burner is for electric ignition with dual elements, the hard way to get there, the thermocouple pilot burner is much more compact but burner tip is similar. Main thing to placement is the pilot flame should just reach over but not touch lip of burner or be mounted high enough to get hit by main flame during operation. As to burner output on low pressure LP, the burner output is lower as the low pressure gas cannot move as much air through the venturi and the flame will be lower. You might consider the low pressure and automatic method with safety for the mash where brute force is not wise, and use high pressure method with boil where you will be there to monitor things for a boil over flameout.
 
I understand what you're saying kladue and thanks for the input. I've included a link to pics of my stand as it is now. If I keep the BK as high pressure would I have to disconnect all the hard plumbing I have and put 2 different hoses on - one for the high pressure and one for the low pressure or can I get the orifice you mentioned and still use the regulator I already have for the high pressure burners I have connected? Hope that makes sense. I want to simplify as much as possible and am not sure how to change my setup to make it work as easy as possible.

Here's the link: Picasa Web Albums - Doug - New Folder

Thanks again for any help.
 
Save the manifold and just plumb in the low pressure regulator ahead of safety valve and solenoid valve for MLT burner, installation layout depends on total length of assembly.
 
Okay - so I can keep the current setup and basically use the 0-30 regulator from the tank to the iron piping and then on the HLT and MT spots have the main line connect to the safety valve, then connect to the solenoid, and then proceed to the burner which will have the low pressure regulator that you mentioned earlier (http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/hurricane-brass-valve.jpg) attached to the burner. Then keep the current setup going to the BK so it will remain high pressure. That sound right? I think I'm starting to get it. Sorry for sounding like an idiot but this is very helpful in my quest.
 
You need the system parts in this order;

30 psi regulator to iron pipe manifold.

For the branch to MLT: shut off valve--low pressure regulator-- pilot safety valve--solenoid valve--MLT burner.

For the branch to HLT:shut off valve--low pressure regulator-- pilot safety valve--solenoid valve--HLT burner.

For the branch to BK: shut off valve--BK burner.

Hope this helps you understand order of component assembly for your system
 
After shopping around and understanding this configuration I will be putting the following together:

Main hard plumbing line to valve which will connect to this:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/hurricane-brass-valve.jpg

which will connect to a low pressure regulator like this in the middle of the page (RSL-1):
http://www.flameengineering.com/Regulators.html

which will connect to my safety valve:
Baso H19 Series Pilot Gas Valve Control 3/8" Gas Pipe Inlet 3/8" Oulet.: American HVAC Parts

then connecting to my STC solenoid valve:
STC 2 way N.C. 1/2" solenoid valve air and water - eBay (item 300261249207 end time Feb-20-09 18:01:12 PST)

and finally connecting at the burner:
Bayou Classic High Pressure Cast Iron Propane Gas Burner BG10 : ShoppersChoice.com

Hopefully that looks okay and things will be smooth sailing from here.
 
Looks like you just about got it, item one is meant for burner inlet not main manifold as it has the low pressure orifice, other than that looks like your good to go. Would recommend permatex #2 for joint compound (yes teflon paste is an alternate), use rubbing alcohol to remove it from everything it was not supposed to get on and the residue on outside of the joint. Teflon tape is not always a good idea with regulators and valves as lost bits of tape in pipe can cause a lot of grief if they end up in valves or orifices. With the brass fittings a touch of oil on the compression nut threads will help when you tighten them.
 
Excellent! I'll put the orifice at the burner and keep the rest the same and we'll be good to go. I had used rectoseal 5 for the main plumbing lines, should I use permatex #2 for everything instead? Thanks again for the instruction and advice!
 
Kladue,
I got all the parts mentioned above and the problem is that the low pressure orifice is too large in diameter to fit into those type of burners. I went back and looked at the info on the baso safety valves and they can handle up to 25psi. Would the high power burners work without the low pressure orifice in place if the psi regulator wasn't turned up past say 20? Or would it work with the low pressure regulator in place in the system as you described but without the low pressure orifice? Just thought I'd check all the options before breaking down and buying expensive new low pressure burners. Thanks for any info/input.
 
I'm not really sure why people keep talking about the BASO H15 valves. These valves are not rated for high pressure applications like the H19 series. Another thing I'm curious about is why no one is using combination valves that have both a pilot safety valve, pressure regulator, and main gas line solenoid all in one... The G92 series from BASO are quite nice if you can stand low pressure.
 
I actually have the baso H19 which is their high pressure version of the safety valve. It is listed at working properly with psi up to 25. I think with this safety valve I can connect everything together without converting to a low pressure system that was discussed earlier. My regulator has a psi setting of 0-20 so that should be fine with this safety valve.

I think the H15 was discussed earlier and used by some who have completely low pressure systems.
 
I'm familiar with most of the BASO valves now. One thing I'm not sure of is why people are choosing safety valves and not using safety switches... The switches are MUCH cheaper and do the same thing.
 
I'm familiar with most of the BASO valves now. One thing I'm not sure of is why people are choosing safety valves and not using safety switches... The switches are MUCH cheaper and do the same thing.

Actually, I think you had it right with the Dual valves. You can get standing pilot dual's for peanuts. Unlike many of the solenoids people are using, they are MADE for gas burners. I have Honeywell valves on my system.

KD
 
Actually, I think you had it right with the Dual valves. You can get standing pilot dual's for peanuts. Unlike many of the solenoids people are using, they are MADE for gas burners. I have Honeywell valves on my system.

KD

Which honeywell valves did you get? The baso G92 valves are really pricey...

As for the switch, i think a lot of people should really consider them if they are already running high pressure and can't find or afford H19 valves. Direct ignition is just as expensive as a safety valve system on high pressure.
 
Which honeywell valves did you get? The baso G92 valves are really pricey...

As for the switch, i think a lot of people should really consider them if they are already running high pressure and can't find or afford H19 valves. Direct ignition is just as expensive as a safety valve system on high pressure.

Mine are combination valves for spark ignition that I got for free scrapped from furnaces. Here is a link to my gas system.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/spark-ignition-brutus-67922/
 
Resurrecting an old thread as I do more and more research on knocking together a Brutus.

Using high pressure propane (0-30 psi regulator, with banjo burners) it looks like the BASO H19 and STC solenoid would be the ideal way to go. However, those H19s that folks were able to find on the cheap, are non existant, and other than Ronrock's classified posting here, I haven't seen any for under $200 a pop.

With that in mind... would the gurus on here take a peek at this one and let me know if it'd work?

1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190364179754

EDIT: Crap, found the manual. It's a White Rogers 764-702, which is great if you've got low pressure propane, but not if you're rockin' the high pressure like me.
 
You need the Baso H19 valve for high pressure applications, if new it is almost cheaper to go electric ignition route.
Yeah, I've searched high and low, and can't find another high pressure pilot that's comparable. Looks like I'll have to go the Lonnie route and just use an unsafe version, and keep it out of the wind! :eek:
 
Yeah, I've searched high and low, and can't find another high pressure pilot that's comparable. Looks like I'll have to go the Lonnie route and just use an unsafe version, and keep it out of the wind! :eek:

You may want to check e-bay. I just bought a Baso H19RA-2C. They are asking $106 but you can get it for much less ;)

Here is the link,

http://cgi.ebay.com/BASO-H19RA-2C-G...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2eaaa2535a

I'm also including the link to the valve technical bulletin.

http://www.baso.com/lib/subdomain/baso/content/images/043514666399cf09e68caffd94c20eee/h19%20high%20pressure%20safety%20pilot%20valve%20product%20bulletin.pdf

I am not sure if it requires a low pressure regulator for the pilot burner (for me it's a no factor because I have a spare).

One last detail, make sure you use the "make a better offer" option. Remember only s#$%$#& pay sticker price!!!

Cheers! :mug:
 
FYI, I recently bought 3 pilot burners from that Ebay seller. Very good price and helpful people. I had to call them to make sure they added the LP orifice. They were actually decent to talk to and very helpful. Just thought they deserved a little plug.
 
At those prices, I would go electric ignition. You can put together each burner for under 100 bucks. Much cheaper if you can get scrapped valves and igniters. I'm getting ready to build my second Brutus and will repeat this component. Considering high pressure as opposed to low this time.
 
Problem is that I've already got the STC valves in hand. Granted, I could do the electric ignition thing, and pop the valves up for sale, but would rather go with what I already have (and really don't want to fart about with adding a 24v transformer, etc.)

I saw those valves on ebay, lan - but was questioning whether to go for them, since they don't have the flow interrupter (which means when lighting the pilot, it supplies gas to the burner as well, although if there's a closed solenoid above it, that shouldn't matter, right?)
 
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