Base Recipes

I brew, primarily, Pale Ales and American IPAs and like some variety when it comes to hops. I use a base recipe for both as far as the grain bill goes and vary mash temperature and hops additions.

My grain bill for Pale Ales (6 gallon pre-boil):

10 lb. Breiss 2 row
2 lb. Munich 9L
1 lb. Acid Malt(for PH adjustment)

For IPAs I just add 2 lb. 2 row.



During the summer months I generally like dryer beers, so I mash at 148 to 150 F. and do my bittering additions at 60 min., flavor at 15 and then dry hop with a couple of ounces.

During the winter, for a little more body, balanced with more hop flavor and aroma, I mash at 154 to 156 F. and split my bittering IBUs equally between 60 and 30 with flavor at 15 and dry hop with a couple of ounces.

This has worked well for me, as well as being a consistent base for trying out different varieties and combinations of hops. I always use US-05 for both styles, so yeast isn't a factor. Wondering if anyone else does this. It cuts down on the malts I keep on hand and allows me to buy in greater quantities which reduces the cost.

Bob

A pound of acid malt? What's your water pH before additions?

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logdrum said:

a pound of acid malt? What's your water ph before additions?

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7.0

What is your mash pH???

7.0 is pretty much what water is supposed to be.

Guess residual alkalinity plays a part too. Mash PH is 5.4 +/-.2 using a pound of acid malt.

BobBailey said:

Guess residual alkalinity plays a part too. Mash PH is 5.4 +/-.2 using a pound of acid malt.

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Isn't your beer terribly sour with that much acid malt? I use about 2 ounces to adjust my mash pH (in a 6 gallon batch) and up to 3-4 ounces in a 10 gallon batch.

I like variety, so I don't really have a "standard" base for my IPAs. I like some with a grain bill similar to yours, with a nice malty backbone, but the next one I make might have 7% crystal in it. I sometimes make more English-y IPAs (but still with a lot of American C-hops) and sometimes I make huge hop bombs.

I have a beer on tap right now I've called "Hopworks" as it's not really the least bit balanced! It's 83% pilsner malt (Belgian), 8% crystal (a mix of light ones), and some munich to make up the rest. The next IPA I make will probably be 97% two-row, and 3% amber malt. Totally different, but that's what I like to do.

Not sour at all Yooper. I started out using about 4 ounces/6 gal. and worked up to a pound. Really can't tell any difference with the increase. When I first started using the acid malt I added an equal amount of honey malt thinking that would compensate for any sourness. Don't know if it did, as I never brewed without it.
Started using Munich a while back instead of the honey malt. Maybe either one helps or maybe acid malt just isn't as sour as some think. Not an expert on the subject, but it works for me

Happy Brewing,

Bob

With my water I don't have to do anything to adjust pH. I might add some phosphoric acid to the sparge of a very light beer but that's it.

My normal base is,

8 lbs 2-row
1 lbs Home Toasted Raw Wheat
.5-.75 lb medium crystal or a blend with some light crystal

I get 5.5 gallons of 1.055 wort from that. The hops depend on what I have on hand to get 40-45 IBU. IPAs use more two-row to get 1.070, 70 IBUs.

I don't always use that grain bill. From all the many others I've done that one remains my favorite.

Going to change my basic grain bill. Since I quit filtering my tap water and backed down to 1/4 lb. acid malt/5 gallons, APAs and IPAs have really improved. Going to eliminate the acid malt and use some lighter crystals that should adjust the PH down enough to take the place of it.

New basic grain bill for APA:

8# Pale 2-row
2.5# German Munich
.5# Crystal 15
.5% Crystal 40

For IPAs I'll just add 1.5# Sugar.

Bob