FastFerment conical

Im using my "v vessel" which is basically the older version only with a superior camlock fitting at the bottom (my opinion) and a large stopper in the top which has advantages and disadvantages over the newer screw on lid... I Dont like the fact that, unlike all my stainless conicals the yeast appears to be sticking to the sidewalls on the conical bottom pretty bad... this makes me thing the transfer wont be so clear when I empty it to a keg.

I cracked the plastic valve before I even got to use it and replaced it with a 3/4" stainless ballvalve.

augiedoggy said:

Im using my "v vessel" which is basically the older version only with a superior camlock fitting at the bottom (my opinion) and a large stopper in the top which has advantages and disadvantages over the newer screw on lid... I Dont like the fact that, unlike all my stainless conicals the yeast appears to be sticking to the sidewalls on the conical bottom pretty bad... this makes me thing the transfer wont be so clear when I empty it to a keg.

I cracked the plastic valve before I even got to use it and replaced it with a 3/4" stainless ballvalve.

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A definite drawback of the plastic conical over stainless. The plastic has enough texture in it to allow the solid particles to cling to the side. I have to admit, I have used the vibrator on the side trick to get most of the solids to slide down into the CB...

Another drawback could be/will be longevity. Just through normal use and cleaning after each use, at some point the interior plastic will get scratched and become a problem with infections. But then again they are 1/4-1/3 the price of a stainless conical. We'll see...

jbb3 said:

I have not tried this but I don't think it would be a workable method with the FF. When reopening the valve after the first CB change;

1. I have seen it take a few days before the rest of the sediment drops into the CB.
2. The beer flows through the center of the trub. While it flows, it pulls the trub as it flows but not all at once. You may end up wasting a lot of beer before it started to run clear.

As I said; I've never tried it but I'm extrapolating based on what I've observed...

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Good points. Will be brewing tonight and will leave the CB on. Be the first batch using the new fermenter

well well well jbb3 does that stand for just a big bull****ter 3? dont respond to my post when you have no clue what your brewin. my post is far from inaccurate. go ahead and brew your stank beer that tastes like band aids and dont clean that valve out. Because thats exactly what happens ok. the trub gets trapped in the ball valve and needs cleaning out or you get rouge yeast strain in your batch. but then again i would not know how to brew or use this since ive only been brewing for 5 years and have used this fast fermenter since induction to the marketplace. So now im debunking your trash talking and weak ablity to try and slander a good overall rating of a product. Dont like it report me and go back to making bad beer. your the one that knows nothing about what your talking about.

wet said:

well well well jbb3 does that stand for just a big bull****ter 3? dont respond to my post when you have no clue what your brewin. my post is far from inaccurate. go ahead and brew your stank beer that tastes like band aids and dont clean that valve out. Because thats exactly what happens ok. the trub gets trapped in the ball valve and needs cleaning out or you get rouge yeast strain in your batch. but then again i would not know how to brew or use this since ive only been brewing for 5 years and have used this fast fermenter since induction to the marketplace. So now im debunking your trash talking and weak ablity to try and slander a good overall rating of a product. Dont like it report me and go back to making bad beer. your the one that knows nothing about what your talking about.

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I'm going to jump in here and try to keep my comments professional and too the point.
The reality is It really doesnt do anything special to make the wort ferment any faster than any other method such as a carboy... neither do any of my stainless conicals for that matter.. Only temp control , aeration and proper yeast health /pitching can do that. If you believe otherwise as you've stated I suggest giving some basis for the belief

As far as the plastic valve, you really dont need to disassemble and clean as long as you rinse and sanitize it well right after uses while making sure to actuate the ball ballvalve a few times while rinsing and under sanitizer...
some ballvalve designs do have dead space where nasty things grow but the pvc valve on my V Vessel which is the older type of fermenter that the fast fermenter was based on when it came out like 3 years ago does not even come apart for cleaning and I have not read of any contamination issues from its users.. like I already mentioned mine cracked and I have since replaced it with a stainless valve which does need to come apart to be cleaned to make the likelyhood of contamination less possible.

And I'm sorry but I dont follow on your IPA comment suggesting a secondary should be used...I know thats your opinion and thats fine But im going to give my opinion and explain why I have it. Simply put transfering to a secondary defeats the whole point of a conical which is to allow you to dump the dead yeast and trub at the end from the bottom without needing to transfer... Once the yeast collection ball has been filled and dumped a person can choose to reattach it and send oxygen into your conical or simply do what a lot of folks with other conicals do and not attach the ball after it fills for the first time, instead open the valve and drain the trub/hops from the bottom slowly with the top cracked open. some people use methods of dry hopping where the hops are hanging from the top in a mesh bag or stay in some sort of hop canister. I recently used the mesh bag method along with a hollow ball to make it float.

wet said:

well well well jbb3 does that stand for just a big bull****ter 3? Dont respond to my post when you have no clue what your brewin. My post is far from inaccurate. Go ahead and brew your stank beer that tastes like band aids and dont clean that valve out. Because thats exactly what happens ok. The trub gets trapped in the ball valve and needs cleaning out or you get rouge yeast strain in your batch. But then again i would not know how to brew or use this since ive only been brewing for 5 years and have used this fast fermenter since induction to the marketplace. So now im debunking your trash talking and weak ablity to try and slander a good overall rating of a product. Dont like it report me and go back to making bad beer. Your the one that knows nothing about what your talking about.

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My apologies for the offensive remarks. I honestly thought it was the FF folks posting and fishing for feedback. Let's agree to disagree. Good luck to you wet...

I've completed the 3rd brewing using a fast ferment conical fermenter. The first had sealing issue and Fastferment promptly replaced the vessel, lid, and lid gasket. Old lid and gasket works fine with new vessel. Three things I like about it
1. I can keg a full 5 gallon batch. My glass carboy always lost some in blowoff or sediment. Now I fill the keg completely.
2. Much easier to clean. I can get my arm in with a scouring pad and easily sanitize it. My glass carboy needed a bent handle brush and often days of soaking to come clean.
3. Easy to remove sediment and cleanly harvest the yeast. Filling the keg is quick and simple as well.

I don't like:
1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.
2. Thermometer port is neat but not needed and potential for leaks and contamination. Easier to measure the temp in the environment and assume the beer will be similar.
3. The threads on the lid and bowl assembly get tough to unscrew after fermenting. I'll try some vegetable oil next time.

In 25 years of brewing, this is the most innovative equipment available at low cost to the home-brewer that I have seen. My friends and I think my beer is the best we have tasted. I still have my glass carboys, but if the FastFerment continues to work well, those will be going on Craigslist.

I am considering using the conical fermenter that didn't seal as a lauter tun. My sparge arm would fit inside and it would be pretty simple to put a false bottom in to hold the grain bed. If anyone has experience with that, please share.

Cheers!

Nextbrew said:

2. Much easier to clean. I can get my arm in with a scouring pad and easily sanitize it.

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Don't do that. You'll scratch up the interior of the fermenter and make it difficult/impossible to sanitize.

Nextbrew said:

1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.


Cheers!

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Just use a racking cane. I put my kettle on top of my keezer. The conical sits in a brew bucket on the floor (did not buy a stand and the conical sits perfectly in a bucket). Fills just fine with no mess.

Nextbrew said:

I don't like:
1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.

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+1 for a racking cane. I use a 1/2" auto siphon, and it works great.

Another +1 on the racking cane/auto syphon. And I like the way the wort fermented completely and quickly.
My only not like is the tendency for trub to clog the bottom of the conical. First batch I had left the valve closed and the clog was really bad. Second batch, I dumped the trub twice the fist day before pitching the yeast and then closed the valve. Fermentation was fantastic, however when the yeast dropped, it clogged the bottom of the conical. I think that next time I'll just leave the valve open and see what happens.
Bob

Bobb25 said:

Another +1 on the racking cane/auto syphon. And I like the way the wort fermented completely and quickly.
My only not like is the tendency for trub to clog the bottom of the conical. First batch I had left the valve closed and the clog was really bad. Second batch, I dumped the trub twice the fist day before pitching the yeast and then closed the valve. Fermentation was fantastic, however when the yeast dropped, it clogged the bottom of the conical. I think that next time I'll just leave the valve open and see what happens.
Bob

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If you read the QA on their site, they suggest letting the wort sit in the conical for 5 hours and settle then dump the ball out before pitching the yeast. This lets the junk settle out. I've done this with the last three batches and have been much happier.

Nextbrew said:

1. I can keg a full 5 gallon batch. My glass carboy always lost some in blowoff or sediment. Now I fill the keg completely.

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A definite plus with plenty of head space. Before I started kegging, I would brew & bottle 6-1/2 gal batches. I miss the additional volume but NOT dealing with the bottling...

Nextbrew said:

2. Much easier to clean. I can get my arm in with a scouring pad and easily sanitize it. My glass carboy needed a bent handle brush and often days of soaking to come clean.

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I've had one of my FF for almost two years. It's starting to develop stain ring from the krausen and I have only ever used a soft sponge to clean the inside. That stain tells me the surface of the plastic is starting to degrade and is rough enough to become susceptible to staining. The plastic will continue to degrade and at some point will become a problem for infections. Plastic fermenters do have a useful end of life.

But in order to prolong the life of the plastic, as others have said, I would not use anything rough like a scouring pad for cleaning the inside. At most, use a soft sponge. I've even seen some never touch the inside and only use PBW to clean it but I haven't gone that far. That's a lot of PBW when you brew 2-3 batches a month...

Nextbrew said:

1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.

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After flame-out, I elevate my BK up on a stand so the ball-valve of the BK is above the top of the FF. Place a large plastic funnel in the top of the FF. Take a sanitized paint strainer bag and drape it over the top of the funnel to filter out some of the hop/trub. Then use a length of tubing to drain the wort from the elevated BK into the funnel/FF.
But that's a pain too...

Nextbrew said:

2. Thermometer port is neat but not needed and potential for leaks and contamination. Easier to measure the temp in the environment and assume the beer will be similar.

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In my case, I like and use the thermowell. I have a temp controlled ferm chamber and have a temp probe in the thermowell. It's especially important to know wort temp before pitching. Though things will settle down and equalize over the next 12 hours or so.

Nextbrew said:

3. The threads on the lid and bowl assembly get tough to unscrew after fermenting. I'll try some vegetable oil next time.

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I have had trouble getting the collection ball off sometimes. I end up using a cheap rubber strap wrench to get it loose.

Nextbrew said:

In 25 years of brewing, this is the most innovative equipment available at low cost to the home-brewer that I have seen. My friends and I think my beer is the best we have tasted. I still have my glass carboys, but if the FastFerment continues to work well, those will be going on Craigslist.
Cheers!

Click to expand...

Wow. That's a long time to have been brewing beer!

I bet this plethora of information (good & bad) wasn't available when you first got into it.

I do like the FF as well. I've been critical at times of the product and company but they seem to have things straightened out and the cost is very reasonable compared to other products on the market.

I hope something I wrote is of use to you or for someone. Good luck!

I put my burner on a water heater stand, about 18" off the floor. I use a kettle with a valve on the bottom and the valve is just about the same height as the top of the FF when I transfer. I sometimes have to lift the kettle to speed the process but not until most of the wort is transferred so it's not a big deal.

To clean my FF I only rinse, wipe with a sponge and then fill with PBW and let it sit 24 hours. It still looks new.

pgbrewing said:

to clean my ff i only rinse, wipe with a sponge and then fill with pbw and let it sit 24 hours. It still looks new.

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+1

Whirlpooling wort really helps reduce trub I believe. I get very little in the FF this way.
I don't have to worry about transfer because I use a Grainfather and pump the chilled wort right into the FF. The GF handles it through 12 feet of hose! And between the two, cleanup is a breeze. I immediately rinse my FF with hot water and then add some warm water and PBW and swirl it thoroughly. 90% of the time this cleans it right up but I take a washcloth and drop it in and use it for the sides/ring. Only once have I had to apply any elbow grease. And I have three FF in a temp controlled environment and use the thermowell also to check the two that are not connected to a Beer bug.
In 20 years of brewing, this and the Grainfather are two of the best things I have encountered.

chezhed said:

Whirlpooling wort really helps reduce trub I believe. I get very little in the FF this way.

In 20 years of brewing, this and the Grainfather are two of the best things I have encountered.

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I got the same system a couple of months ago after a 3 year brewing sabbatical and can't agree more. They are truly made for each other. Both streamline the brewing process making it less a chore and more enjoyable. Max capacity on the GF= max capacity on the FF. I use anti foam drops to avoid boil overs/ blow offs. I used to brew 10 gal batches, so I am only missing 3 gallons. The ease of use allows for more brew days which more than makes up for it.

I'm curious how you do your whirlpool. I still get a lot of trub transferred. I was thinking of putting a SS strainer on the FF to strain some out and maybe aerate a bit.

Brewmasher said:

I'm curious how you do your whirlpool. I still get a lot of trub transferred. I was thinking of putting a SS strainer on the FF to strain some out and maybe aerate a bit.

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I used to do it Manually I would stir like a madman for several minutes.

But since then I have replaced the plastic blades on a Mix-stir with some stainless steel ones and now stir with that for about a minute and then wait about 5 minutes (and often add a flame out hop during this) before I turn on the pump. I have already run wort thru the CFC and have temporarily disconnected it while I do this. I put it back on when I finish stirring and then run cold water through it to get it nice and pre-chilled during that 5 minute wait.

I've been eyeing the jacket they make for temp control. Trying to decided whether to build a fermentation chamber or maybe buy the jacket. Anyone using the jacket? Are you happy with it?

I know some with the jacket and they are pleased. I have a large cooler that holds 3 fast fermenters so I don't use the jacket.

chezhed said:

I used to do it Manually I would stir like a madman for several minutes.

But since then I have replaced the plastic blades on a Mix-stir with some stainless steel ones and now stir with that for about a minute and then wait about 5 minutes (and often add a flame out hop during this) before I turn on the pump. I have already run wort thru the CFC and have temporarily disconnected it while I do this. I put it back on when I finish stirring and then run cold water through it to get it nice and pre-chilled during that 5 minute wait.

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Did a brew last night and it worked like a champ! Put a strainer on the FF as I transfered- 0 gunk even though there was a ton of hot break due to flaked rye grist! I forgot to sanitize the CFC beforehand, so I just opened the valve enough to let a small flow go through with no problems.

I use the jacket. It does the job. I have used both for keeping the temp up (for a saison) and keeping the temp down (lager). It's well constructed so should last.

chezhed said:

I know some with the jacket and they are pleased. I have a large cooler that holds 3 fast fermenters so I don't use the jacket.

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What kind of cooler do you have? Is it possible to send photos?

vosperp said:

I use the jacket. It does the job. I have used both for keeping the temp up (for a saison) and keeping the temp down (lager). It's well constructed so should last.

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Will it work with the stand, or do you have to mount it on a wall?

Brewmasher said:

Will it work with the stand, or do you have to mount it on a wall?

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From the videos, it works both ways.

dmenace79 said:

What kind of cooler do you have? Is it possible to send photos?

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I have the traditional 72" True beverage cooler that you see in many convenience stores or bars. Nothing special. Found it used for a song. I built wooden stands for the FastFermenters. The only drawback is everything ferments at the same temperature, which is fine most of the time as I tend to keep similar requirements running at the same time.

The jacket definitely works on the stand or on the mounts. It has cutouts and patches to cover them when not needed (in stand).

I recently received a FF and have seen different mounting heights. I brew and also make wine. I plan to do both in my FF. Can anyone give me a height that would be good for mounting? I will probably bottle directly from the FF. Thanks.

The key (in my opinion) is to give yourself enough space on the top. You are going to fill them, then move to the brackets. As long as you have enough space to the ceiling, you're fine.

Make sure your into the wall studs. If I we're to mount mine on the wall I'd have it 4 to 6 inches higher than a keg. I wouldn't want to be to close to the ceiling.

Apologies if this has already been answered;

Has anyone had luck with pressure transfers using the FF? I bought a lid and drilled a hole big enough to secure a ball lock on it. I've attached a hose from the barb at the bottom to a liquid ball lock and then under 1-2psi of pressure tried to send the beer into my keg (with the pressure relief valve open).

It may just be because I've been doing big dry hops (I always try to dump the hops until the beer runs clear before racking) but I can't get any flow into my keg this way.

Any thoughts on what I could do?

I'm hopping on the 14g FF train! Waiting for it ship. I'm doing all gravity fed transfers so I'm building a rolling cart that the stand will sit on that's just a little taller than a keg. Going to get building this weekend!

old thread but.... I've been using a FF for years for small batches, it was the Vvessel when I bought. Still going strong today

So I received the 14 g fast ferment on the mail last night and it's already been more hassle than it's worth. First only two screws threaded in without effort when putting the stand & leg extensions together. Then I finally got it after using my own screws that I had. Finally got the stand together and assembled everything as instructed with the Teflon around the threads, and I can't get it to stop leaking from where the conical meets the top of the ball valve. I have like 8 layers of Teflon around the threads and screwed it on as tight as I can without a strap wrench. Still just extremely leaky. Any tips? More tape?

treacheroustexan said:

So I received the 14 g fast ferment on the mail last night and it's already been more hassle than it's worth. First only two screws threaded in without effort when putting the stand & leg extensions together. Then I finally got it after using my own screws that I had. Finally got the stand together and assembled everything as instructed with the Teflon around the threads, and I can't get it to stop leaking from where the conical meets the top of the ball valve. I have like 8 layers of Teflon around the threads and screwed it on as tight as I can without a strap wrench. Still just extremely leaky. Any tips? More tape?

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My experience has been to just keep using more tape until it stops leaking.

I personally have been using the 7g fast ferment and while it has been a good fermenter I think I will be selling it and going with the anvil stainless brew bucket.

CTS said:

My experience has been to just keep using more tape until it stops leaking.

I personally have been using the 7g fast ferment and while it has been a good fermenter I think I will be selling it and going with the anvil stainless brew bucket.

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Thanks for the response. I'll keep layering the tape on! Does that much tape make it a real inconvenience to clean? I'd imagine you should take the valve apart as much as you can after every brew.

treacheroustexan said:

Thanks for the response. I'll keep layering the tape on! Does that much tape make it a real inconvenience to clean? I'd imagine you should take the valve apart as much as you can after every brew.

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No problem! I used to not take the ball valve apart after a brew. I would just work it back and forth with some hot water and call it good, after taking it apart one day I quickly realised that this method was not sufficient.

I now take it apart after every brew, but the past few times I have not added new teflon tape to it. I just remember how many turns till it comes off, clean and do the same turns putting it back on. Haven't had any leaks.

The thermowell on the other hand i have not taken apart as I found that a pain in the ass for getting it not to leak.