Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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So was in the process of making my MLT according to these directions. great idea btw. But after reading about all of the leak problems, and hard times finding 10 gal round coolers or SS washers, i got an idea.
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Instead of trying to make a new seal and risk a leak, i tried to use the original. It was a perfect fit with the ball valve! Would of never guessed. So wrapped the spigot with teflon tape, and tested it. absolutely no leaks. For the braid i just wedged it in the inside of the original seal, and it too fit almost perfectly.

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AG here i come!
 
Sorry to hear about the stuck mash, just chalk it up as one more good reason to drink more beer!! I've got a 10 gallon beverage cooler and use a false bottom, after 50+ batches I still haven't had a stuck mash. Get with Jaybird and see if he still has any left.

Thanks for the tip! He does indeed have some more, so I'll be getting one of those false bottoms for sure. I have a couple of questions for you also:

1. What did you use for a pickup tube? Any pics?
2. Since his false bottoms aren't domed, did you have to add any spacers to raise it off the bottom? If so, what did you use?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the tip! He does indeed have some more, so I'll be getting one of those false bottoms for sure. I have a couple of questions for you also:

1. What did you use for a pickup tube? Any pics?
2. Since his false bottoms aren't domed, did you have to add any spacers to raise it off the bottom? If so, what did you use?

Thanks again!

The ones that Jay makes aren't domed, I would just use some S/S bolts and nuts to make some legs for it to hold the false bottom up about an inch or two off the bottom of the cooler. The setup im using right now is the 10gal A/G cooler setup from morebeer.com. I got it about a year ago before I even knew about this site and looking back I wish I did. I'm in the process of piecing together a brutus ten and I'm going to use the false bottom that I got from Jaybird. I'd definetley get one before he runs out. As for the pickup tube on a flat false bottom, look back through the thread and you'll see a couple different setups that use rigid pipe, copper or S/S would both work fine.

*Edit* The thread I was referring too is the one in the classified section where he is selling the false bottoms.
 
Ok,
so a quick question here for all of you who have built and used one of these rubbermaid cooler MLT's...

I just got my 10 gallon cooler, and have not had a chance to use it yet, and I am trying to wrap my head around batch sizes.

Assuming that I am doing a "normal" 4% - 5% alcohol beer, what is the largest batch size that a 10 gallon MLT will accommodate? I know that I should be able to run a few calculations and figure this out, but for some reason my head is just not wrapping around the concept well, and I figure, you all have used the things, I will just ask what batch sizes you are making.
 
Ok,
so a quick question here for all of you who have built and used one of these rubbermaid cooler MLT's...

I just got my 10 gallon cooler, and have not had a chance to use it yet, and I am trying to wrap my head around batch sizes.

Assuming that I am doing a "normal" 4% - 5% alcohol beer, what is the largest batch size that a 10 gallon MLT will accommodate? I know that I should be able to run a few calculations and figure this out, but for some reason my head is just not wrapping around the concept well, and I figure, you all have used the things, I will just ask what batch sizes you are making.

I used a 5 gallon cooler before this and I was able to get up to a 1.055 starting gravity with this much volume for a 5.5 gallon batch. This works out to about 5-6% ABV depending on terminal gravity readings (my Pale Ales came out at 5.6%). Now, my efficiency was only 70%, so if you could get better efficiency then you would be able to brew a "bigger" beer. So if I take this same formula and apply it to my new 10 gallon setup, then I should be able to make a 10 gallon batch of beer with the same ABV. I wouldn't count on doing much more than 10 gallons, although if you were able to get great efficiency and aim for a 4-4.5% ABV you might be able to get a 15 gallon batch out of one mash.
 
Thanks, that is the kind of info I am looking for. I usually do beers in the 4% - 5% range, and I am in the process of converting a couple of kegs to go with my new rubbermaid cooler, so based upon what you said, I should have no problem at all doing 10 - 12 gallon batches once all my new gear is ready to go.
 
Thanks, that is the kind of info I am looking for. I usually do beers in the 4% - 5% range, and I am in the process of converting a couple of kegs to go with my new rubbermaid cooler, so based upon what you said, I should have no problem at all doing 10 - 12 gallon batches once all my new gear is ready to go.

I've been on the prowl for a keg myself...so I can make a keggle and do 10 gallon batches. With my 5 gallon batches, I normally collect 7-7.5 gallons but my last runnings are typically 1.03x or so. I think there are still some sugars in there, which means I could probably do another round of sparging and extract a bit more wort for the boil. I wonder myself if I could possibly get enough wort to do a 15 gallon batch. Or how about this: Take the first 7.5 gallons and make an IPA out of that, then take the next 7.5 gallons and make a blonde, or pale ale? Damn, now I'm getting all excited about brewing and I still have 7 hours of work left :D.
 
As to myself, I am shooting for about 12 gallon batches, the keggle being able to hold a max of 15.5 gallons. With some foam control, I would thing that 12 gallons should be no problem. As to fermenting a batch that size, I currently have about a dozen carboys, pretty much evenly split between 5 gallon and 6-6.5 gallon. My thought is to split a 12 gallon batch between three of them. Not only will this greatly increase my capacity, versus my current 5 gallon batches, but it will also give me the ability to do a lot of experimenting. Different yeasts on the same recipe, same yeast but at different temperatures, that type of thing. Now I just have to finish building all the toys so that I can get started.
 
As to myself, I am shooting for about 12 gallon batches, the keggle being able to hold a max of 15.5 gallons. With some foam control, I would thing that 12 gallons should be no problem. As to fermenting a batch that size, I currently have about a dozen carboys, pretty much evenly split between 5 gallon and 6-6.5 gallon. My thought is to split a 12 gallon batch between three of them. Not only will this greatly increase my capacity, versus my current 5 gallon batches, but it will also give me the ability to do a lot of experimenting. Different yeasts on the same recipe, same yeast but at different temperatures, that type of thing. Now I just have to finish building all the toys so that I can get started.

Just thought I'd add my two cents here....... When you split your wort between a few different carboys to ferment, why not try using different strains of yeast in each one. Even though the grain bill was the same for all of them you'll be suprised as to the different flavors you'll get from the finished beers. I was just reading an article on this where a homebrew club broke up their wort into several different one gallon jugs and used a different yeast for each one. The outcome was several great tasting beers with just a simple change in yeast. I havent done this my self yet but plan to do it soon.
 
That is a good idea.

I am looking to try to make an all-grain setup myself. Right now I have a turkey fryer and 2 5 gallon carboys and a 6.5 gallon carboy. I also have a 5 gallon fermenting bucket but I don't want to use that unless I have to. What equipment would guys recommend I get to change the setup to an all-grain setup. I am looking for the most cost effective way.
 
That is a good idea.

I am looking to try to make an all-grain setup myself. Right now I have a turkey fryer and 2 5 gallon carboys and a 6.5 gallon carboy. I also have a 5 gallon fermenting bucket but I don't want to use that unless I have to. What equipment would guys recommend I get to change the setup to an all-grain setup. I am looking for the most cost effective way.

If your trying to go AG on the cheap why not just get some kind of insulation and wrap your plastic bucket and use it as your MLT. Pretty much the same principle as a 5gal beverage cooler. Just add a false bottom or some kind of screen/manifold to strain out the grain when you recirculate/sparge. As long as your kettle is big enough for full boils thats all you should really need. Well that and another bucket of some type for your HLT. Ive seen some AG kits around the web that sell a bucket wrap for just that purpose.
 
Just thought I'd add my two cents here....... When you split your wort between a few different carboys to ferment, why not try using different strains of yeast in each one. Even though the grain bill was the same for all of them you'll be suprised as to the different flavors you'll get from the finished beers. I was just reading an article on this where a homebrew club broke up their wort into several different one gallon jugs and used a different yeast for each one. The outcome was several great tasting beers with just a simple change in yeast. I havent done this my self yet but plan to do it soon.

Now why didn't I think of that :drunk:

but it will also give me the ability to do a lot of experimenting. Different yeasts on the same recipe, same yeast but at different temperatures, that type of thing.
 
LMFAO!!!! HAHA I'm a retard, sorry. I had the day off today and think I may have "tasted" one to many of my brews. Oh well, I'll chalk that one up as my first "post whoring" expeirence......unless of course this counts as one too. Oh well I think I'll drink to that!
 
LMFAO!!!! HAHA I'm a retard, sorry. I had the day off today and think I may have "tasted" one to many of my brews. Oh well, I'll chalk that one up as my first "post whoring" expeirence......unless of course this counts as one too. Oh well I think I'll drink to that!

Silly post-whore :rolleyes:

Seriously though, I think I read the same article, and was thinking that would be awesome to do. I want to take something that I brew all the time, and see how small changes to the overall equation impact the final product.
 
I can get a 10 gallon cooler from my girlfriends dad so I was thinking of converting that.

I guess I am just confused on how many things I need for AG. I know I need something to put the crushed grains in and let them sit in there. Then I need to sparge then grain, is this right? Then I transfer the wort to my kettle. Am I right here? I have only done 2 extract brews but I would much rather just jump right in to AG brewing so any help would be great.
 
I can get a 10 gallon cooler from my girlfriends dad so I was thinking of converting that.

I guess I am just confused on how many things I need for AG. I know I need something to put the crushed grains in and let them sit in there. Then I need to sparge then grain, is this right? Then I transfer the wort to my kettle. Am I right here? I have only done 2 extract brews but I would much rather just jump right in to AG brewing so any help would be great.

Oddly enough my last post didn't post so I'll try again.


Check out this guys series of vids on youtube. Here is the 1st vid of 8. Watch them all a few times. He does a good job explaining the AG process.

 
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I can get a 10 gallon cooler from my girlfriends dad so I was thinking of converting that.

I guess I am just confused on how many things I need for AG. I know I need something to put the crushed grains in and let them sit in there. Then I need to sparge then grain, is this right? Then I transfer the wort to my kettle. Am I right here? I have only done 2 extract brews but I would much rather just jump right in to AG brewing so any help would be great.

Try reading this, it should shed some light on the basics of going all grain.http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/index.html
 
I built this according to plan, but used two (for stiffness) nylon washers in place of the interior SS washer. Works great; no leaks when 80% filled. Leaks 1 drop every 5-10 minutes when filled to the brim. I can live with that.

This was my first all-grain, so I may be doing something wrong, but when vorlaufing my wort did not clear up very much. I did 4-5 quarts and there was slightly less particles than when I started. These particles were numerous, but were smaller than flecks of salt or pepper. Almost as if they were the proteins coagulating? Or is my SS hose a bit too porous? Or nothing to worry about? There were definitely no substantial chunks of husk...
 
I would just keep recirculating until your wort is as clear as you want it. I usually recirculate atleast 3-4 gallons of wort before I start sparging.
 
I would just keep recirculating until your wort is as clear as you want it. I usually recirculate atleast 3-4 gallons of wort before I start sparging.

Good to know. I see some people saying that usually vorlauf only 2-3 quarts... I thought perhaps something was wrong with my braid's connection (knocked it loose while stirring?), but it appeared to be alright post-mash.
 
slight variations on the design:
1. my Igloo cooler had a rather large spigot seal, so I added a 5/8 washer used for the hot water line on a washing machine. it seals around the nipple and snugs right up to the inside of the cooler.
2. i saw the solution of adding a barb + cap to the end of the stainless hose and went a step further. i added a 3/8" FIP Tee (watts #A-758) inside the cooler and used two 12" hoses that reconnected to each other via two barbs (watts #A-294) and a 3/8 FIP connector (watts #A-760). The added weight will keep the hose from floating for sure AND i assume the efficiency will improve slightly thanks to better coverage by the stainless hose.
Note 1: I had hell finding 5/8" stainless washers, so I gave up and bought 1/2 and 3/4 washers instead. I used my step drill to open up the 1/2" washers (one per side of cooler) to 5/8" size, then backed them up with 3/4" washers.
Note 2: I also added a second 3/8" MIP x 1-1/2" nipple (watts #A-786) and a 3/8" FIP coupling (watts #A-760) inside the cooler to keep the stainless hoses centered in the cooler.
Here are some shots of the parts before and after assembly:
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Looks nice..........there wasn't really a need for all the teflon tape on all the parts. Just the parts that would leak outside.
 
i know that only the threads outside the cooler need the teflon for sealing.
the teflon on fittings inside the cooler is for ease of disassembly. i've had parts gall together in the past. an ounce of prevention...
 
Just finished mine today. Instead of a hose barb inside, I used a 1/2" FIP to 3/8" FIP adapter and screwed on my bazooka screen and keg adapter. It fits perfectly, and held up great to a massive Imperial Stout mash today. Not a leak in sight.
 
I put together a 2 gallon and 5 gallon version of this today. Have a 10 gallon on order from Ace Hardware.

I couldn't find 5/8 in fender washers at 4 different stores so I tried flat washers and they haven't leaked. I bought some vinyl tubing but ended up using a 1 1/2 inch section to secure the braid to the MIP and the Head Plug held the opposite end down nicely.

On the 2 gallon I forgot the SS washer on the inside but I have no leaks. Is it a must have on the inside? I spent a good ten minutes tightening everything down and would hate to redo it but will if needed.

I bought a little hacksaw for 4$ at home depot and was able to saw through the braid in about 30 seconds.

Another thing I noticed: Rubbermaid seems to be going away from the victory labels. I found the 5 gallon at target for 16.99 on sale - blue without the victory label. At Menards I found the orange with the victory label and with the same label as the blue one I got at target so I'm guessing they are the same coolers?

Also I first picked up the 2 gallon for 19.99!! at Ace but found it later at Menards for 8 dollars. I did see the 10 gallon at a hardware store for 69.99 but will go with one on order from Ace for 49.99.

I am now ready to do some big beers in the 10 gallon, regular beers in the 5 and test batches in the 2. Lots of practice now that I will be going all grain.

I've been downing my last extract Hefe and am ready for another batch and want to get in on the 9/9/9 Barleywine but both may sound like they may be slightly difficult for a beginning all grain brewer but might as well dive right in...
 
my coolers smell aweful. any reason to worry? or a little pbw and starsan?
If they smell awful, I bet they might contribute awful flavours as well, at least to some really light beers.

Try a soak in PBW, Oxiclean, or bleach solution. Just be sure to rinse REALLY well (many times) afterwards.
 
Just a heads-up... I just returned from Home Depot where I picked up a Home Depot branded Rubbermaid 1610 10 gallon cooler for $39.97. Home Depot item #875-786.
 
If they smell awful, I bet they might contribute awful flavours as well, at least to some really light beers.

Try a soak in PBW, Oxiclean, or bleach solution. Just be sure to rinse REALLY well (many times) afterwards.

After all that...meaning when they are cleaned, if they still smell, pour half a box of baking soda in there and fill with warm water.....leave them soaking for several days or even a week, then drain and rinse...Baking soda's amazing at absorbing odors from things (like smelly refrigerators.)
 
Every few brews, I fill up my MLT with starsan and leave it overnight. Totally clears up any smells left in there, and the stainless gets nice and bright and clean. Then I rack the starsan to my primary so it can sit in there until it's ready for wort.
 
I just made my MLT with a 10gal Rubbermaid. Tested it for leaks before and after I attached the braid. I followed the revised directions (put the braid over tubing with notches). The discharge rate/force was a bit less with this on, I suppose this is normal right? as the water must go through the holes to leave the cooler. Nonetheless, an easy build that I am excited to use once I get my new kettle.

RJ
 
Just a heads-up... I just returned from Home Depot where I picked up a Home Depot branded Rubbermaid 1610 10 gallon cooler for $39.97. Home Depot item #875-786.


SWEEEET! Just scored one. B@$t@rd at the counter in Home Crapo the other day told me he couldn't get me one (little did I know he had an alterior motive :mad:). I walked in today with the part number you posted and lo and behold, they had one in stock. It was the last one, and it was for "Store Use". The guy that searched the number for me tonight sold it to me! The pr!ck that "searched" the system for me the other night didn't want to give up the last one! :mad: When they come looking for it, it's going to cost them 70 bucks, just like if he bought it online. I have to go convert a cooler. l8r
:rockin:
 
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