Force carb at serving pressure

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mciaio

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I have searched and read a ton on force carbing; but didn't find anything on this.

This is my first kegging, I am going to cold crash, transfer to keg cold and then force carb at 12 psi. I want to quick carb, so I will keep the gas line connected and then shake the keg like crazy. Keep doing this until I hear no more gas going in. Wouldn't this force carb the beer to the right volume without the risk of over-carbing by using 20-30 psi?
 
idk, but it sounds like a lot I mean lot of shaking and the beer would have to be very cold too.
 
Yes, it will work but its a lot of effort and obviously takes more time than shaking at 30 psi.
 
Yeah, but no risk of over-carbing is the advantage...

I guess you experienced dudes aren't worried about over-carbing. Am I worried about something I shouldn't be?
 
Even if it's coming in at a lower pressure, you can still dissolve more CO2 than you want, thus overcarbonating the beer.

How? My required carb pressure is 12 psi. I am assuming that shaking will help it reach equilibrium faster. How can you over-carb if you are using the required volume pressure from the charts? Am I missing something?
 
Yeah, I just did some more reading and I don't know - I shouldn't have responded so quickly. I forgot about the whole regulator thing. Kind of important.
 
Yes, people do this and it works. Personally, I'm not a fan of the 30 psi blasters (unless seating a lid) because it's a waste of gas if you overcarb and then have to continually vent excess. Granted, if you know your system and have your times down, it can work for you. I like the set it and forget it method...as long as you have a pipeline, there's no rush.
 
Yeah, that's my issue... no pipeline... YET! Muhahahaha :tank:

Once I get these two kegs in and I have a pipeline, I will just let them sit for a week at serving pressure in the kegerator.
 
This will work.

But keep in mind a few things. First, a shaken keg will be full of sediment for at least 24 hours after it's done being shaken. That is a big negative for me. Also, it may be foamy until it settles down. Lastly, a quickly carbed beer usually has a carbonic acid "bite" to it for a couple of days.

So, in my mind, this will "work" in the sense that the beer will be carbed up quickly. But it won't really be drinkable for at least 48 hours after that.

What I would do if I REALLY needed the beer carbed up quickly would be to put the keg in the kegerator on 30 psi for 36 hours. Then purge and reset to 12 psi. Don't move the keg at all, just let it settle so the sediment falls out. Then, after 36 hours and resetting to 12 psi, pour 3 ozs. Dump that, as it'll be yeast sludge. Then pour a beer. It'll be slightly undercarbed, but not too bad and no foam. Make sure your serving lines are at least 6 feet long (preferably longer) to avoid foaming also.
 
Yooper's suggestion is pretty much what I do. Not moving the keg is ideal and a 30psi blast for anywhere from 12-36hrs with a reset to serving pressure allows me to drink within 2-3 days. You avoid having to wait for the beer to settle back down as well as the sediment to fall back out. So, I wouldn't try and get it to where you are drinking in under that time frame or you'll not be satisfied with the results IMHO.
 
Yeah, that's what I am going to do. I want to drink it because the lack of supply line, but I don't want it to taste like junk. I waited three weeks already, another three days isn't going to kill me.
 
Yeah, that's what I am going to do. I want to drink it because the lack of supply line, but I don't want it to taste like junk. I waited three weeks already, another three days isn't going to kill me.

You're not fooling us - we know you will be "sampling" it each of those 3 days. :mug:
 
CO2 stone in the keg. Attach it to the gas dip tube with a piece of hose that reaches the bottom of the keg. 2-3 days for perfect carbonation at serving pressure. It's gentle on the beer and doesn't require messing around with your regulator. Cost about $17 for stone and hose. All of my serving kegs have them. Great investment.
 
Yeah, that's what I am going to do. I want to drink it because the lack of supply line, but I don't want it to taste like junk. I waited three weeks already, another three days isn't going to kill me.

36 hours is only a day and a half:mug:
 
One thing my local HBS said to try was to switch the heads on the gas and beer lines. This puts the CO2 through the beer instead of on top. I know may not make a bit of difference but it seems to work for me. Now here is the kicker...don't shut the gas off while it is connected. If you do the beer goes through the dip tube into gas line. This is why I have a sign above the kegerator that says "turn on air first, don't turn it off dummy". Needless to say it has been done already.
 
What? 36 hours is not three days? :tank: I think I need a drink! LOL!

So, umm... cold crash in primary then rack to keg or just rack to keg and cold crash/ carbonate at the same time?
 
Forget it. I read it. Put it in a keg and carb it up. No need for a cold crash in the primary.
 
If you're wanting to cold crash for clarity, you can always do what I do in my kegs. Add some gelatin when racking. After the 3 days, pour off the first pint or so and it should be A LOT clearer than if not adding it. I don't keg without it now.
 
One thing my local HBS said to try was to switch the heads on the gas and beer lines. This puts the CO2 through the beer instead of on top. I know may not make a bit of difference but it seems to work for me. Now here is the kicker...don't shut the gas off while it is connected. If you do the beer goes through the dip tube into gas line. This is why I have a sign above the kegerator that says "turn on air first, don't turn it off dummy". Needless to say it has been done already.

It's a common misconception, but the CO2 bubbles coming through the diptube are so large and move up so fast that pushing gas this way doesn't help carb the beer any faster. To have the effect you're thinking of you need the break the gas up into lots of tiny bubbles, like wailingguitar describes doing above with an airstone. IMO the only thing switching the QD's does is create a risk of backflow into the gas lines (which it seems you've already experienced).
 
If you are transferring your beer from a cold crash into the keg and immediately shaking it you aren't going to stir it up anymore than the transfer already did...

I'm more of a set it and forget it kind of person, but it sounds like you have a minor emergency on your hands. I might be tempted to do just what you say and shake it for a little bit to help it along.
 
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