Are you going to eventually release the plate exchanger side module popcorn extension? Always nice to have a steady stream of popcorn while mashing...
Brewhardware new RIMS tube
- Thread starter fur_252
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Are you going to eventually release the plate exchanger side module popcorn extension? Always nice to have a steady stream of popcorn while mashing...
Where did you all get a 1/4" MNPT thermowell/temp sensor? I only know of the thermowells from brewhardware - any others out there?
Was also thinking of using this element: http://www.drillspot.com/products/8...537_Electric_Replacement_Water_Heater_Element
Was also thinking of using this element: http://www.drillspot.com/products/8...537_Electric_Replacement_Water_Heater_Element
Do you have a link or part number?
Also, how hard or easy is it to clean the element in this tube?
blaster_54738
Well-Known Member
Cleaning the element in this tube is as simple as loosening the TC clamp on the element end and sliding the element assembly out of the tube. You can also take the other clamp off to clean the main body (dishwasher?)...
I should probably shoot a short video of how easy it comes apart and reassembles.
BrewingGunner
Well-Known Member
Got mine yesterday! Thanks Bobby!
That's the same one I got too.
I would love to see how you mounted it. I am still trying to figure out the best way.
fur_252
Well-Known Member
de3isit said:
This was the way I mounted it! The only bad thing about it is that when I uncouple the hose sweet warm wort flows out of the tube. So I just put a small bowl right under input port and let it drain.
Thanks for the picture. No issue with heat on the power cord?
So Rims Tube for mash tun and gas for hlt and BK? I'm in the same boat, but I have two pumps.
-=Jason=-
I don't know everything about your process, but one thing to try is right at the end of your mash, close your pump output valve, switch the pump input hose from your MLT output to your HLT output, open the valves and sparge through the RIMS tube which will not only clean it up pretty well but when it's finally disconnected it will only be water that drips.
Frankly I offer two sizes just for customer flexibility but since making that decision I figured out a couple advantages. For one thing, you can put a huge 5500w (240v) foldback element in the 18" and do two possible things: First is you can actually play around with on-demand hot water. Assuming you have the electrical circuits for 30amp/240v, you can run tap water through it at sparge rates without heating up an HLT. Of course, this is experimental type usage as far as I'm concerned. Second, you can either use a switch to go between 120v/240v or just run it on 120v full time. This brings your effective wattage down to about 1375 and ends up being the lowest watt density of any element on the market. It provides extremely gentle heating as a RIMS.
The downside is that it's bigger, which may or may not be a problem for your brewery design.
Me neither. Great idea.
Wow, makes me want to rebuild from scratch. Don't tell my wife!
old-pasture-brew
Well-Known Member
Got my tube a few months back but finally got around to doing a water test and trial run just yesterday. All I can say is thank you Bobby! Works beautifully and considering my lack of electric skills, was very simple to get to work. Hardest part was finding the time!! And that's
not right .....
not right .....
old-pasture-brew
Well-Known Member
Yes there is a pump and the control box is off to the right but mostly cut off. System is running off a normal 120v outlet.
old-pasture-brew
Well-Known Member
Yes. It connects to a dedicated 120v/20amp plug. I never did a wiring diagram... Just went with all the info in various threads here. Gotta say again that Bobby's set up was very high quality and best price. Here is a picture of the control box
And here is the guts half wired
And to wrap it up one more pic of on awesome rims tube!!
And here is the guts half wired
And to wrap it up one more pic of on awesome rims tube!!
Not quite sure what you mean? I have a 120V 1500W element and it did a great job at maintaining temp during my test boil. I even turned it up a few degrees and it worked fine at raising the temp as well.
I tested it with 10 gallons.
If I get this tube assembly, would it make sense to get something like this kit as well or are there better/easier options to use with this tube? I am pretty much starting from scratch with my build.
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/rims-20a-kit.html
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/rims-20a-kit.html
You can do that if it fits your needs. Assuming you are using a 2000W element or below and that you plan on using two pumps, then, sure, this will work just great, I'm sure. Note that you'll still need to purchase a separate PID.
If that's not your desired setup, then you can search the wiring diagrams on the automated brewing forum for something that more closely meets your needs. I recently finished a control panel that way. I didn't have much experience with projects like this, so I definitely hit some bumps a long the way, but the HBT community came to my aid lots of times.
I guess I just encourage you to spend a good deal of time planning and really thinking about who you want your build to work. Depending on what you have in mind, many of these from-scratch builds take an enormous amount of time. I know mine did. All of that said, it can be very satisfying.
Good luck!
Looks like you'll also need to purchase an enclosure.
that would work, if it meets your needs. that setup is for 1 element and 2 pump 1 pid and 1 timer.
might you be able to source the parts cheaper? I don't know that's up to you.
I might use that wiring diagram and buy my parts, because right now I have 1 Rims tube with pump and pid in toolbox and another pump. I'd like to build a nice control panel to house it all, but in the long run I plan on going all electric so im not sure if I should just wait and do it all at once.
-=jason=-
Agree with the planning but with all the great information in this forum and sooooo many differnet means to an end, it's almost becoming information overload! In my mind (currently!), I'm thinking single tier, 2 pumps, still utilize my cooler tun, propane burners on HLT and BK, and RIMS. Really don't think I need to automate the brurners since I believe I can use the RIMS setup for sparging (after getting the HLT up to temp with the burner). Might be worng on the sparge though.
But at some point I need to $#^% or get off the pot!
old-pasture-brew
Well-Known Member
Wondering if anyone out there has tried attaching their rims tube directly to their mlt with cam locks and no tubing in between. So the output of the tube gets a type D connection that would attach directly to the type A on my mlt return.
Two reasons I see this as being helpful. Less tubing means less heat loss so why not go straight into the mlt? Also seems like a very easy way to keep the rims tube stable while in use but easy to break down for clean up
Thks!
Two reasons I see this as being helpful. Less tubing means less heat loss so why not go straight into the mlt? Also seems like a very easy way to keep the rims tube stable while in use but easy to break down for clean up
Thks!
You'd still need to have a pump in line between the out of the MLT and the in of the RIMS tube.
I never thought of it like that. I really like that idea. I think I have the right fittings to try it. Will post a picture later today.
Similar threads
