Brewhardware Element Enclosure

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kzimmer0817

kzimmer0817

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Last Summer, Bobby_M posted a thread regarding his Weldless Triclover Element enclosure.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/weldless-triclover-element-428247/

This appeared to generate quite a bit of excitement, and units were sold out very quickly. From the above thread, it appears that the weldless triclover attachment (the bolt-on or lock-nut version) has been tabled, but the website shows a couple of weldless non-triclover versions:

http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

Items #4 & 5 are the weldless-only adaptations.

I'm particularly interested in hearing of anyone's experience with the weldless versions. I'm not sure I want to try my hand at soldering - even after viewing Bobby's excellent video, but I'm very interested in the weldless versions. There are many interesting ideas on the "Show Us Your Element Housing" thread, but I can see no reason for fashioning my own housing when, for $24-30, I can have a perfectly good pre-made one - unless I'll be "brewing with Martha Stewart".

Has anyone - who's afraid of welding/soldering - purchased either of the weldless adaptations? Please either post your experiences or PM me.

Thanks,
Keith
 
My first ekettle i built i used the weld less lock nut with O ring setup. I worked fine but is more of a permeant solution . If your going to use a ripple style element you will not be able to mount is toward the bottom of the kettle. This is because it screws in vs being calmed in. With the TC setup i can take my element out and clean it, not so easy when its locked in place . One of the biggest reasons for a TC setup thats often over looked is that you can pull the element out and cap it off. Then you can use your brew pot on a outdoor burner at a friends house. Your not married to having a element in your pot.
 
I have option 5, goes together easy and gives a nice finished look. Comes with everything you need except element, wire and plug. I've only done one batch so far with it so far but seems like it should hold up fine.

I can see the plus to the triclover version but didn't want my experiment with silver solder on my brand new kettle.
 
I've never soldered before but I managed to attach two (BK/HTL) without much trouble. After watching the video I felt prepared enough to do it, and it turned out ok, not beautiful but it works. IMHO it's a great solution for mounting an element. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1388548636.322727.jpg
 
ChocolateMaltyBalls said:
I've never soldered before but I managed to attach two (BK/HTL) without much trouble. After watching the video I felt prepared enough to do it, and it turned out ok, not beautiful but it works. IMHO it's a great solution for mounting an element.
Click to expand...

I may try soldering. Yours looks great. My kettle is 12.75" in diameter. It was an inexpensive kettle. The video makes it look so easy. If I screw up my kettle, it won't be as if I had purchased a really nice one and messed it up.

Thanks,
Keith
 
I just used a cheap 40qt Concord pot, that way if I messed up I was only out $60 or so. But the only thing you can really mess up is making the hole, you can fix the solder joint.
 
I have been thinking of switching from a locknut set up to a soldiered TC. I already have an 1 1/4" hole punched in the pots. Has anyone done the same?
 
kzimmer0817 said:
Last Summer, Bobby_M posted a thread regarding his Weldless Triclover Element enclosure.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/weldless-triclover-element-428247/

This appeared to generate quite a bit of excitement, and units were sold out very quickly. From the above thread, it appears that the weldless triclover attachment (the bolt-on or lock-nut version) has been tabled, but the website shows a couple of weldless non-triclover versions:

http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

Items #4 & 5 are the weldless-only adaptations.

I'm particularly interested in hearing of anyone's experience with the weldless versions. I'm not sure I want to try my hand at soldering - even after viewing Bobby's excellent video, but I'm very interested in the weldless versions. There are many interesting ideas on the "Show Us Your Element Housing" thread, but I can see no reason for fashioning my own housing when, for $24-30, I can have a perfectly good pre-made one - unless I'll be "brewing with Martha Stewart".

Has anyone - who's afraid of welding/soldering - purchased either of the weldless adaptations? Please either post your experiences or PM me.

Thanks,
Keith
Click to expand...

I meant to stay out of this thread for a while but let me just drop in this nugget... Using a locknut and oring to install the electric elements is really one of the oldest ways I've seen it done. The oring is sometimes put between the element flange and pot and sometimes on the inside of the pot behind the locknut. The simple EWL enclosure really just gets squeezed between the element and pot with the oring inside the pot under the locknut.
 
Thanks for chiming in, Bobby. I'm trying to decide between your locknut option vs trying my luck at soldering on my 7.5 gal economy SS kettle.
Keith
 
Go with solder. It's not necessary but the option to easily remove the element is really nice.

Just take your time, follow the directions and learn something new. You'll be so proud when it's done!
 
Bobby_M said:
If only this dope didn't wait so long to reorder the solder-on flanges and didn't just run out.
Click to expand...

Resurrecting this thread as it appears to be the most relevent...

Two questions:

1) If you buy the weldless and decide to try soldering after the fact, can you convert over easily?

2) What is your recommendation for controlling the temp? Do you only use this as the boil element?
 
For the weldless, you need a 1.25" hole. You CAN solder the flange over this but a small ring of the pot will be seen sticking into the 1-3/8" ID of the solder flange. It's not a big deal at all, just a 1/16" ring all the way around. You'd probably want to file a small V groove at the bottom of the hole just so water/wort doesn't pool in there.

For temp control, I always recommend a PID, SSR and heat sink in a project box. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet. Many people want to use a ready-made controller like the A419 or Ranco, but most are not rated for the current draw we need.
 
Bobby_M said:
For the weldless, you need a 1.25" hole. You CAN solder the flange over this but a small ring of the pot will be seen sticking into the 1-3/8" ID of the solder flange. It's not a big deal at all, just a 1/16" ring all the way around. You'd probably want to file a small V groove at the bottom of the hole just so water/wort doesn't pool in there.

For temp control, I always recommend a PID, SSR and heat sink in a project box. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet. Many people want to use a ready-made controller like the A419 or Ranco, but most are not rated for the current draw we need.
Click to expand...


Are you out of the flanges I can't locate them on your site only the whole kit.



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Bobby_M said:
For the weldless, you need a 1.25" hole. You CAN solder the flange over this but a small ring of the pot will be seen sticking into the 1-3/8" ID of the solder flange. It's not a big deal at all, just a 1/16" ring all the way around. You'd probably want to file a small V groove at the bottom of the hole just so water/wort doesn't pool in there.

For temp control, I always recommend a PID, SSR and heat sink in a project box. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet. Many people want to use a ready-made controller like the A419 or Ranco, but most are not rated for the current draw we need.
Click to expand...


Couldn't I just increase my hole from 1.25" to 1-3/8" if I switched from weldless to welded?
 
I just ordered 2 weldless ones, so we'll know in a couple weeks how it fits and how it works with my 5500w elements :) Eff this propane nonsense.
 
I'm very happy with my weldless enclosures. I've got two in my pot. Well made, no leaks on the first run, they look great, and were a great value. I don't think I could have gotten the ports welded in for the same price.

They'll be very easy to remove if I need to for some cleaning.
 
My 1.5 Triclover element cover is being delivered today. I called a local weld shop about estimated cost for welding the triclover on my pot and they guy said $50. :(

maybe I should have gone the silver solder option.
 
On one of my pots I dimpled and soldered a short 1.5" ferrule for a heating element. Comes out clean and solid.
 
southwoodbrew said:
My 1.5 Triclover element cover is being delivered today. I called a local weld shop about estimated cost for welding the triclover on my pot and they guy said $50. :(

maybe I should have gone the silver solder option.
Click to expand...

I just dropped off my Keggles today at a welder to weld a total of 7 fittings between the two Keggles. He charges $80 for the first 3 fittings per pot and $20 dollars per fitting after that. so I am looking at roughly $180 works out to $26 per fitting which I have heard anywhere between $25-$35 per fitting is standard. so $50 is a little high
 
DePends where you live. I got quoted $125 for two fittings here. Then again welders get paid $40 - $50 an hour around here. ..
 

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