Fly Sparge recipe for Edworts Hause pale ale?

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britishbloke

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This would be my first AG brew today.

Edworts recipe is a batch sparge which I dont have. I have fly sparge setup.

Im wondering what ratio would be for the amount of liquid needed to fly sparge and then boil.

10 gallons? Sparging? I hope this doesnt sound like a silly question.
:)
 
The amount of sparge water you need would depend on your system. If you have done any recipes with a similar amount of grist I would use that as a baseline. I always make more than I need personally, coming up short is annoying and you can use the extra hot water for cleaning later.
 
If you're following the recipe as Ed wrote it, you'll mash in with 3.5 gal. The grain will absorb about a gallon of this. Without knowing your system, I'd assume you'll lose another half-gallon to the dead space in your MLT. So you'll need to sparge with 4.5 gallons to get 6.5 galllons into the pot.

3.5 mash - 1.0 absorbed - 0.5 dead space + 4.5 sparge = 6.5 to kettle.

Your total water requirement will be 8 gallons (3.5 mash + 4.5 sparge). I'd have 9-10 gal ready, just to be safe.
 
How much wort you collect will also depend on things like what your evaporation rate. That, along with the dead space issue, is why it's all dependant on your system, you can't generalize.
 
the_bird said:
How much wort you collect will also depend on things like what your evaporation rate. That, along with the dead space issue, is why it's all dependant on your system, you can't generalize.
Click to expand...

True, but you gotta start somewhere. Use what I suggested, or something else that makes more sense to you...just make sure you measure EVERYTHING relentlessly on this batch, so you can start dialing in the parameters of your system (evap rate, dead space in the MLT, wort lost to your hop filter, etc.)

No big deal if you wind up with 4 gallons or 6 gallons on this batch...as long as you understand why.
 
I'd go for about 8+g (US). When you fly sparge it's not about how much you estimate you need as much as having more than enough to finish the job / get what you're after into the kettle. Fly is about stopping after you hit your desired pre-boil volume, or your runnings are below 1.010.

Equipment comes into play a little. For instance I use a 1/2 barrel for my HLT and I start with about 10+ gal. But only because once it gets down to the last 2-3 gallons my sparge arm starts going too slow.
 
Oh - a two part question. I chatted on the HLT exclusively. evap rate etc on the boil a factor as others said. Humidity etc. Maybe stop sparging after you get 7.5 - 8g US? I go for 9 but I have big evap rate in the desert and do 75m boils. Check your gravity once you get to 6g. If you're still 1.018+ you'll be fine to go to 8g
 
General rule of thumb is 1.25 qts/lb for your mash and 1/2 gallon per pound for your sparge. I usually add a gallon extra in my HLT for the sparge. Just stop your runnings when you get to 1.008 or your target volume.
 
"Just stop your runnings when you get to 1.008"
uh... I'm a little confused. this can't a gravity reading right? I'm planning to start all grain brewing soon but this threw me. what is this cause it can't be a original gravity reading right? please explain this one to me.
 
bird said:
"Just stop your runnings when you get to 1.008"
uh... I'm a little confused. this can't a gravity reading right? I'm planning to start all grain brewing soon but this threw me. what is this cause it can't be a original gravity reading right? please explain this one to me.
Click to expand...

It's correct. But what you are measuring is the gravity of the water/wort as it is rinsing through the grains. Taking a measurement right from the spout of the mash tun. Towards the end, less and less sugars are being rinsed...
 
DesertBrew said:
It's correct. But what you are measuring is the gravity of the water/wort as it is rinsing through the grains. Taking a measurement right from the spout of the mash tun. Towards the end, less and less sugars are being rinsed...
Click to expand...

To add to this. The reason you stop at this point is that you will stop rinsing sugars and instead start pulling tannins out of the husks. The tannins will give your beer an astringent off flavor. It's far better to stop your runnings and top off with water to get your desired volume than to keep sparging beyond the 1.008. I also recommend keeping some DME on hand should you need to boost your gravity up.
 
In response to bird's question, I've come to the personal preference of having a full fermenter (5 gal. carboys in my case) rather than having the gravities work out just right. My MO is to sparge until I have 2 gallons over my desired final volume, regardless of what the gravity is of those final runnings. I lose 1.5 gallons to evap during the boil, and .5 (about) to whatever hops are still in there (I take a few passes with a large strainer to remove most of the bittering hops from the boiler before adding any finishing hops). I do a 90 minute boil, but I know alot of folks who don't boil that long.

Hope this is useful. -p
 
perry said:
In response to bird's question, I've come to the personal preference of having a full fermenter (5 gal. carboys in my case) rather than having the gravities work out just right. My MO is to sparge until I have 2 gallons over my desired final volume, regardless of what the gravity is of those final runnings. I lose 1.5 gallons to evap during the boil, and .5 (about) to whatever hops are still in there (I take a few passes with a large strainer to remove most of the bittering hops from the boiler before adding any finishing hops). I do a 90 minute boil, but I know alot of folks who don't boil that long.

Hope this is useful. -p
Click to expand...

I am in the same camp with you, but I shoot for 5.5 gallons in the primary so that I get around 5.25 gallons in the secondary and 5 gallons in the keg. It also leaves me room for hop absorption in the secondary when I dry hop.
 

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