Kenmore Model# 95882 Fridge Kegerator?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Anybody have easy access to this one to check it out and measure inside? I don't have a sears nearby but this looks very interesting. Maybe 3 cornies can fit?
 
I've been eyeballing that one for a commercial 1/2 barrel kegerator. Figured I could also have a couple of cornies in it as an alternative. That's a ways down the road though. I'm just finishing my 4 tap keezer and starting to brew up something to fill it with.
 
I think the thing was built to be a commercial kegerator, there is a v notch in the hump for the compressor and the whole back plate is the refrigerant.

The door panel would definitely have to be trimmed out, but this thing has a slight possibility of holding 3 cornies.

I just haven't been back to a sears to check it out. Seems nice though, digital temp controller built in and everything.
 
Just got back from Sears with measurements, becuase 5.7 cu ft sounded REALLY good for a three tap system:

The base of the unit, where it has the vnotch hump is not really a v-notch. It's like this:

http://twitpic.com/49tr94

So it definitely won't work for a half barrel.

The base area, as I'm going to call it, where they have the humps for the compressor/etc is 7.5" tall. Above that, the fridge is 19" deep. It is also 21" wide, but I'd take off 1/4 to 1/2" for the tray moldings.

Finally the internal of the fridge is 28.5" high.

Hope it helps! I was really bummed that this won't work for me, but maybe will for you.
 
Forgive my ignorance here, but if you are going to drop $318 on a 5.7 cu ft fridge, why not just get a slightly bigger freezer for less? I was at Home Creepo yesterday and saw a 7.2 cu ft freezer for like $180. Granted, you will need to buy a temperature controller and would have to load kegs via the top vs the front, but for more room and control over temp, it seems worth it to me.
 
because not everyone has a healthy enough back to lift a half barrel four feet into the air. with a front loading fridge, i can use a dolly to wheel it right up there.

but you're spot on, if i had the choice without health concerns, I'd go with a keezer.
 
Did anyone successfully convert this Kenmore? i just scored one on craigs list but mine has a small metal freezer on top.
 
Crap! I didn't see this one! I just got the one with the removable freezer tray (4.6 cf below) and plan on converting (and fully documenting) next week. The bigger one looks ideal! Might have to make another just for fun and sell it.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_04694683000P?mv=rr&i_cntr=1314915187774

BTW: Keezers are NOT the same as refrigerator kegerators. Lots of people want to put kegerators in their bar. The small frig conversions fit under a countertop and look professional. I really have no interest in a keezer right now.
 
Just finished converting a Kenmore 461-95882 5.7 Cu. foot fridge (I got a floor model cheap at Sears). There are a few important details to note about converting it that I wish I'd known ahead of time, but the conversion was pretty straight forward.

First, the top of the fridge is a plastic shell which contains a thermostat board and controller (these are part of the front-mounted temperature display and controls on the exterior of the lid). You can unscrew the top and unplug the wires from the controls easily. There's about a half inch air gap between the lid and the top of the fridge, which is the exterior metal shell. Underneath that is about 2 inches of insulation, and then the plastic inner shell of the fridge. I'm fairly certain that this basic fridge is used as a Kenmore kegerator as well as a fridge, since the interior metal shell has a ~2" circular hole in its center. I drilled out this hole to do my conversion.

Now, the few issues:
1) As far as I can tell, there are no coolant lines running across the top of the fridge. they appear to all be in the back.

2) If you drill the hole in the center, you will hit the wires for the dome light. They're (annoyingly!) buried in the middle of the foam insulation, so I didn't see them when inspecting the fridge. I cut them, but since I disconnected the light switch, it wasn't an issue.

3) The air gap between the outer plastic shell and the top of the metal shell of the fridge itself is significant. You will probably wan't to mount your tower to the metal shell, so cold air doesn't leak.

Other than the lighting wire, it was a pretty straightforward job of converting it to a kegerator. It holds two corny kegs and a 5# C02 tank with some room to spare for bottled beer. It should also hold 1 corny keg + a better bottle fermentor (6 gal), but I haven't tried fermenting in it yet.
 
Old thread, but in case anyone is searching..

I just got one of these from Craigslist.
I did modified the door, but it fits 3 corny's (Ball lock) with a 5# co2 tank inside.
It will also fit 2 corny's and a 1/6th bll sanke. I recommend a 90 adapter for the sanke beer line or a low profile coupler.

As mentioned the top is setup (predrilled) for a tower to be installed. I ordered a 3 tap that should be here in a few days!
 
sK0tt,

I did wind up getting this refridgerator. And it's good to know 3 kegs will fit, thanks. I'd be interested to know how you modified the door. I've cut out the center (top to bottom) divider with a sharp knife. I was bummed to cut out the 10 can holders. But i think i'll need to carve out more, in order to fit 3 corny kegs. Can you tell us how you did it.

As a side note, i put the taps on the front door. For one thing, i don't have to worry about hitting the cooling line. And there's a remote chance i may buy another and put that on top of the first one :D

Brian
 
Brian,

I removed (ripped off) the entire door panel. I then replaced the foam I tore off with hard foam and spray foam insulation. I then covered the door panel in some water heater insulation wrap I had. End result is a door panel that is flat. If I were doing it again I might try cutting it rather then ripping..

Also, The top has a tap hole drilled in already, so no worries about hitting any cooling lines. Plastic top is easily removed by 3 screws on the back.

I'll post a picture or 2 when I mount the tap.

S
 
Back
Top