Second AG batch kegged and ready in 10 days

Wish me luck. As you all know my first AG (Raspberry Wheat) went to sh*t and turned into cider. My FG was a 1.010 on a newcastle clone with a little twist (substitutions). I tasted it and it smelled, looked and tasted like beer.

I am going to gear my next batch toward an APA of some type. I found a nice recipe that "The Pol" recommended to me. An Orange/Coriander Pale Ale. These are the ingredients for a 5.5 gallon batch. I do 10 gallon batches so I would naturally double it.....I just want to make sure I am on the right page. The following is for 5.5 gallons:

9 lbs Maris Otter
1 lbs Vienna Malt
1 lbs Crystal Malt 10°L
1 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added first wort, boiled 60 min left
1 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 10 min left
1 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 5 min left
1 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 1 min left
2 ea Fermentis S-04 Safale S-04 (No starter)
2.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
2.0 oz Orange zest - @ 10 min left
1 oz Coriander crushed - @10 min left
Whirlfloc - @ 15 min left

So since I am doubling it my recipe would read as such:
18lbs Maris Otter
2lbs Vienna
2lbs Crystal Malt
2oz cascade @ 60min left
2oz cascade @ 10 min left
2oz cascade @ 5 min left
2oz cascade @ 1 min left
Fermentis S-04 Safale S-04
4oz orange zest @ 10 min left
2oz Coriander crushed @ 10 min left
Whirlflock @ 15 min left
4oz (2oz per cornie) dry hopped to secondary


I have a few questions:

Does my recipe conversion sound correct, if not please help?

The recipe asks for certain yeast (NO STARTER). What white labs can I substitute (I normally use two vials per 10 gallon batch)

I have never dry hopped. I bought some SS tea balls from WalMart that should hold an ounce or two. I can assume sanitizing the SS balls is a must but what about the HOPS...how do I sanitize those...or do I?






Thank you for your help
Joe

looks good to me...I would cut the whirfloc to 8-10 minutes...15 seems a bit long????

Good Tip.....

The recipe asks for certain yeast (NO STARTER). What white labs can I substitute (I normally use two vials per 10 gallon batch)?

Any ideas on the dry hopping?

I have never dry hopped before. I read that the hops should be sterile...how is this accompished?

Thanks
Joe

Any takers on the yeast/dry hopping question...I could use some help.

Thanks for the time
Joe

try wlp-002 and the hops should be sealed if its 1 oz or if you buy in bulk then hopefully your were careful where you opened it and weight it. Just be aware of grain dust and sanitation

I have only purchased sealed hops since I just got into brewing.

I keep the hops in the freezer when not in use. So it is safe to assume that a new sealed package is sterile enough to use for dry hopping?

Thank you for the help.
Joe

if you dry hop in the secondary (where there's alcohol) bacteria won't be growing... so sealed hops should be more than fine.

That is almost the same recipe I have made recently (Twice), most currently with the Orange Zest and Coriander (rather than just orange Zest).

Smells TERRIFIC in Primary and should go on tap sometime in Feb.

You should love the smell when you add the zest and coriander! WOW what Aroma!

Cheers and best of luck with your batch!:rockin:

ILOVEBEER said:

I have only purchased sealed hops since I just got into brewing.

I keep the hops in the freezer when not in use. So it is safe to assume that a new sealed package is sterile enough to use for dry hopping?

Thank you for the help.
Joe

Click to expand...

Yes. Even a not-new package (i.e. a package you opened, took some of the hops out of, then taped shut, wrapped in foil and put back in the freezer) would be fine.

Hops don't carry much bacteria (AFAIK), and as boogyman noted, your secondary will already have lots of alcohol in it.

Dry hopping = awesome. Gives your beer a real "professional" taste, IMO.

Fxgrmind,

from grain to glass...what were your fermentation temps and time frames?

I ferment in a sanke with a top from brewershardware.com and use my cornies as a secondary which is also where I will dry hop with the SS tea balls full of hops.

Any chance you wanna share that info?


Thanks
Joe

+1 to WLP002 as your liquid replacement, it flocs like crazy but.

What part of ca are you from?

Socal inland empire area

ILOVEBEER said:

Fxgrmind,

from grain to glass...what were your fermentation temps and time frames?

I ferment in a sanke with a top from brewershardware.com and use my cornies as a secondary which is also where I will dry hop with the SS tea balls full of hops.

Any chance you wanna share that info?


Thanks
Joe

Click to expand...

Joe, I'm still in 2ndary (first batch) and Primary (2nd batch). However I plan on 3 weeks in Primary/secondary then 2 weeks carbing (eventhough I keg it takes me a while to get it right) then proably 2 more weeks until I'll have room to put it on tap.

I tried a PM version of this recipe last spring without the zest or coriander and that was ok then got better with age, I'm hoping for more "Body/mouth feel" and citrus flavor. If you are familiar with Mac&Jack (Seattle WA) that's what I'm trying for.

I've got so much to improve on thought, my efficiency is only in the 60's and I struggled through each AG as they were my first.

But it's still beer and still should be quite good and potent enough as with my first batch (now in 2ndary) should be 6%abv and the second slightly less.

However with better efficiency it should be more like 6.5 or 7abv.

The color is right for a M&J, but that's as far as I have for info at this time. I'm hoping the rest comes through. Fingers crossed.

Cheers

What fermentation temps did you use buddy?

(I normally use two vials per 10 gallon batch)

Click to expand...

This isn't enough yeast. You should definitely make a starter and preferably a pretty big one.

The recipe specifically states.............. starter-NO WAY

I have never heard of two white lab vials not being enough yeast for a ten gallon batch...am I way off on this one?

I have not entered the land of the starters yet.....I plan to in the near future, but not for this batch.


Thanks
Joe

ILOVEBEER said:

The recipe specifically states.............. starter-NO WAY

I have never heard of two white lab vials not being enough yeast for a ten gallon batch...am I way off on this one?

I have not entered the land of the starters yet.....I plan to in the near future, but not for this batch.


Thanks
Joe

Click to expand...

Mr Malty's pitch rate calc states you would need 4 vials for 10 gallons of 1.054 wort.

I am assuming you are doing blacklabs orange/cascades pale ale. He says use s-04 and you dont make starters with dry yeast that is why it says starter no way.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH....that makes sense.

I am not sure who made the recipe I found it in the recipe section.

Thank you
Joe

Im not sure why you would want to use expensive liquid that requires a starter if an equivalent dry yeast is available. If you don't want to make a starter, you should just pitch 2 packs of s-04. That should give you more than enough yeast for 10 gallons.

I am still learning the whole game....I have only made a few batches and only used whitelabs vials...I have never used dry yeast packets. I was wondering.....when using dry yeast it is necessary to rehydrate the yeast......or is it?

How do you guys utilize dry yeast?


Thank you for the help
Joe

"What ferment Temps do I use"

With S-04 I use 60-62 (Air temp) to start off the ferment process (pitched at 75, so it should cool down to the 60's), when vigorous fermentation is complete (2-3 day's) I add a brew belt and the air temp up to 65.

So the Yeast pitched Wort should start of quick as the temp declines from pitch temp of 75 and then settle in the mid 60's until vigorous fermentation is complete, the brew belt should bring it up to high 60's low 70's to finnish off the fermentation and begin clean up.

Then 7-8 day's into fermentation I remove brew belt (brew belt on 3-4 days max) and let it cool down to 60-62 (air temp) to clean up and settle out the yeast and remaining trub or floating debris.

Rack to 2ndary if available or wait an additional week to "Clear". Then Crash Cool to further Clear, prior to racking to keg.

Carb in Keg and then when ready chill in fridge down to 40 deg... let sit an additional week to final Clear.

Hence it takes me 7-8 weeks to go from Grain to draft.

with dry yeast, just dump the appropriate amount in right out of the package. Some people re-hydrate and have success. I have never rehydrated and have always been successful.

Use this to figure out how much you need http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

Using the correct amount of yeast is important to the final taste and quality of your product.

Thank you guys

when using dry yeast it is necessary to rehydrate the yeast......or is it?

Click to expand...

I never used to and the beer turned out fine, BUT now that I do my beers are even better (placebo effect? maybe). Re-hydrating is *supposed* to increase the # of viable cells...but of course w/o some expensive equipment we can't know w/ 100% certainty and are forced to trust common knowledge.

It's really pretty easy though so I don't see why not. All I do is (at the beginning of my brew session) take a 2 cup pyrex measuring cup, fill w/ 5-6oz of water, cover loosely w/ plastic wrap and microwave for a few minutes until the water boils. I let this cool at room temp through the brew session until the wort is in the fermenter. I then sprinkle the yeast into the water, let sit for 15-20 min, swirl and pitch. Easy.

CharlosCarlies,

Thanks...it cant get any easier than that (BTW who is the girl in your avatar)?


I have a few questions about primary/secondary. I use a RIMS system I built, a 40 plate chiller that works awesome, oxygenate with a setup from morebeer and ferment in a sanke with a top from brewershardware.com.....now for the question:

I hear several people talk about primary to secondary to kegging.....is this really necessary????

I ferment for 2-3 weeks...I cold crash the sanke for 24-48 hours.....sanitize my cornies and pump the beer into those to finish the process...force carbonate and let the kegs equalize with the set dispensing pressure for a few days before I drink.

Is this a similiar process any of you follow?

I just want to make sure I am not doing something completely stupid.

Thanks
Joe

Anyone care to comment?

Your process sounds good to me. Most people on here skip secondary, unless they're racking onto fruit or something, and instead just leave the beer in primary for 3-4 weeks and package it.

It sounds like you have a good understanding of brewing basics, but still have some questions. You are free to continue asking them, but I suggest going through the forums here and reading all the stickies. Pretty much everything you will ever need to know is referenced there.

I am kinda getting the hang of it.....My main problem is that I brewed a few batches of extract and decided to build a three keggle RIMS system.....like someone said "you just got your license to drive and you bought a lamborghini!"

I'm ok with that....I'll tell you what it looks awesome....unfortunately I don't really know how to use it to it's full potential.

In time and with your guys' help...I'll get it.

Thanks for all the help!

Joe:rockin:

Joe,
I think we are all in the same predicament when we transition from PM to AG...

Unless we have an AG brewer to show us the ropes in person. But each Equipment set up is different so each brewer's process is probably just a little different than the next.

Sort of like having a map.... and folowing it in the dark without a light. You know where you are and where you want to go... but can't quite see the "Path" but know that it's there... somewhere.

But hey... trial and error... when you are making beer... you can't go wrong! It's still Beer in the end!

I'll let you know when I get my batches through. I'd like to hear how yours turns out.

Cheers

Absolutely.

Right now the other dilemma I am having is keeping fermentation temps. SoCal weather is not brewer friendly...one day my garage is 50* the next day it is 75*.......I currently ferment in a sanke submerged in water with an aquarium heater....this particular beer wants the cold fermentation temps I was having a few weeks ago.....a guy cannot win!

I already purchased a thermostat for my chest freezer purchase in the near future. For now I am going to try and keep the temps low enough to ferment this beer @ 60ish like it calls for.

It is going to be a fight to keep it cool enough....any ideas?

what is the temp of your house? if you are in the 67-70 range it will work fine. i dont know if you ferment in your garage for a specific reason... but for instance i ferment in my basement with an air temp of 65-67. you def. want to avoid those big temp swings, especially during primary.

Well there are $$ solutions and Cheap...

The cheap is to take a big plastic tub from HD or Lowes, place your primary in it, surround it with H2O then add Ice to control the water bath temp to 60ish.

The other is to buy a fridge or freezer and put a temp controler on it and control the internal temp to 60ish.

I did the later last summer as it got to 95 de here (in the PNW that is HOT!!) just to be able to brew with control over the ferment temp.

Cheers

The other is to buy a fridge or freezer and put a temp controler on it and control the internal temp to 60ish.

Thai is next on my list....already bought the controller, now I am looking at a used chest freezer

ILBeer... update, my first batch racked to keg, no hint of the orange...
Racked the 2nd batch to 2ndary yesterday and added 2 oz more orange zest (Dry Hop bag) today...

It's beer, just the orange didn't come through as I wanted so I decided to try and dry hop it ... time will tell. The 1 oz Coreander added a little spice hint in the background... and I'd say 1 oz is plenty.

How has your effort turned out?

Cheers

Update again,
1st Carbination complete and now on tap. Evolving nicely, the orange is gone but the flavor is nice and smooth, no aftertaste.
2nd is now racked to keg and is undergoing carbination. The orange zest in 2ndary is spectacular! Huge orange nose and great flavor! Blended 50/50 with #1 (for carbination flavor test) and I named it.

#2 is Black Gate Sunrise ale.

It's beer, but it almost tastes like breakfast orange juice. 5.5% abv

It's the best beer I've ever made. 2nd all grain and 2nd beer from my Hops.

Today I realized that I Can brew a good Brew and one that is worthy of offering to anyone. I may have to find a Beer Contest and submit a pint, just to get some feedback from the pro's.

I'm just stunned how well it's all come around in just one year of brewing.

WOOOT!

Cheers and Thanks to everyone here at HBT