Heatstick = awesome!

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I have always used straight sticks, and can't really see a benefit to the 90 degree models. I guess I just prefer a more compact device, the 90 degree models with multiple bends become quite large.

The bend around the top of the kettle looks nice, but for all practicality, a straight stick is very secure in the pot, and likely would overturn the kettle prior to inadvertently coming out of the kettle.

JMO
 
I have always used straight sticks, and can't really see a benefit to the 90 degree models. I guess I just prefer a more compact device, the 90 degree models with multiple bends become quite large.

The bend around the top of the kettle looks nice, but for all practicality, a straight stick is very secure in the pot, and likely would overturn the kettle prior to inadvertently coming out of the kettle.

JMO

I concur, all the variations are a horse apiece. :mug:
 
Mine is a 16" chrome trap arm, plus a 6" chrome extension so the plastic parts a kept some distance from boiling/steam.

I would have gone with a longer waste arm if there were any at the stores I stopped at. If I see one in the future, I may upgrade. The plastic parts are from a "trap-in-a-bag"...$2.50 for all the plastic. This allowed me to get the cord out away from the propane heat coming up around the keg.

yeah, I'm trying to reduce the amount of parts or points for leakage
 
so the guy at home depot says that a all GFCI plugs are set to pop at 15 amps, even the 20 amp ones, they will let 20amps flow but once the draw is above 15, they pop. If this is true how are people using the 2000w elements.
This response was that the house is probably not at 120, might be more like 123 or something but it would take getting up to like 140 volts before you got below 15 amps.
 
so the guy at home depot says that a all GFCI plugs are set to pop at 15 amps, even the 20 amp ones, they will let 20amps flow but once the draw is above 15, they pop. If this is true how are people using the 2000w elements.
This response was that the house is probably not at 120, might be more like 123 or something but it would take getting up to like 140 volts before you got below 15 amps.

I'm not sure the home depot kid is a trustworthy source. GFCI's trip when there is a disparity between the hot leg and the neutral (current is being lost to somewhere). And certainly, a 20a load GFCI is rated to handle 20a draws. I believe what he meant was that a 15a load GFCI will allow pass-through 20a...this type of GFCI is common. Please note that not all of them are 20a pass-through.

High draw situations (like electric motors) may have a higher probability of fluctuations in current (i.e., start-up vs. run), which may lead to nuisance tripping scenarios.



I was hesitant to use my chugger pump and the heat stick at the same time on the same circuit, as it would put me at darn near 20a...I used them both for a whole batch, no problems at all.
 
I'm not sure the home depot kid is a trustworthy source. GFCI's trip when there is a disparity between the hot leg and the neutral (current is being lost to somewhere). And certainly, a 20a load GFCI is rated to handle 20a draws. I believe what he meant was that a 15a load GFCI will allow pass-through 20a...this type of GFCI is common. Please note that not all of them are 20a pass-through.

High draw situations (like electric motors) may have a higher probability of fluctuations in current (i.e., start-up vs. run), which may lead to nuisance tripping scenarios.



I was hesitant to use my chugger pump and the heat stick at the same time on the same circuit, as it would put me at darn near 20a...I used them both for a whole batch, no problems at all.

Very good to know, thanks!
 
Has anyone successfully controlled a 2000w heat stick with a STC 1000?

Considering that setup as a way to maintain mash. The other thought was to turn the pump on/off to regulate the heat.
 
So I built mine and was in a test using my induction burner and heatstick and the temps were rising well and then around 204 degrees my gfci tripped and would not come back on. I noticed that some of the silicone around the upper fittings past the chrome tube had come loose. I don't think this sealer is good with plastic is my guess, either way, what should I do?

Wait for it all to dry and reseal the top stuff with JB weld?

I used the DAP 100% slicone aquarium safe stuff, the MSDS says it is good for 400 degrees too.

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000688001.pdf
 
Maybe it didn't cure completely before you used it? I'd use jb weld, let it cure, test in water overnight after two days to make sure it's all sealed. Then do a test run for a bit and see if it turns on.
 
Maybe it didn't cure completely before you used it? I'd use jb weld, let it cure, test in water overnight after two days to make sure it's all sealed. Then do a test run for a bit and see if it turns on.

yeah, I think I'll do that but I did let the silicone cure for ~20 hours for each application in multiple layers.

Can I apply jbweld over this or do I have to scrap all of this off?
 
Anything above wort shouldn't even need anything more than the compression nut. Silicone is just extra insurance. My stick is all sealed chrome to the top of the kettle and pvc with compression nuts (no sealant) from there on.

There should be no pvc in your wort. If there is not then I suspect the leak is coming from elsewhere.
 
I noticed that the teflon tape sorta melts after boiling. However, the rtv red gasket maker is still intact (even on the flat parts where silicone usually peels right off).

I am going to take mine apart and use the gasket maker on all of the threads and on top of all the compression rings.
 
I stand corrected. I checked this stuff out when building my system but must have missed something. Thanks mthompson :)
 
I stand corrected. I checked this stuff out when building my system but must have missed something. Thanks mthompson :)

No worries. I searched a while to find info when I was building mine.... They don't exactly advertise it as such.

I have lots of experience with aquarium silicone and it peels off everything. This rtv red doesn't even scrape off with a razor.
 
Yeah, that red rtv is good stuff. I keep that and the right stuff in my garage at all times.
 
So glad I stumbled upon this great thread! I just read the entire thing and going to set out to gather the supplies required to build a heat stick or two.
My glass top stove struggles to bring 3-3.5 gallons to any type of decent boil and I want to start doing BIAB. Just this past weekend I was measuring boil off rates...which were truly pathetic for 3.5 gallons. Much less for 5 or more gallons. At 5 gallons, I can get a mild, mild roll with maybe a .5 gallon an hour boil off.
I do have a propane burner, but I have little to no desire to brew outside. Especially living in CO going into the winter months.
Heatsticks look like the perfect tool for me to supplement my glass stop stoves poor pathetic burners.
 
So glad I stumbled upon this great thread! I just read the entire thing and going to set out to gather the supplies required to build a heat stick or two.
My glass top stove struggles to bring 3-3.5 gallons to any type of decent boil and I want to start doing BIAB. Just this past weekend I was measuring boil off rates...which were truly pathetic for 3.5 gallons. Much less for 5 or more gallons. At 5 gallons, I can get a mild, mild roll with maybe a .5 gallon an hour boil off.
I do have a propane burner, but I have little to no desire to brew outside. Especially living in CO going into the winter months.
Heatsticks look like the perfect tool for me to supplement my glass stop stoves poor pathetic burners.

Before you charge down the path of making one of these, I think you should look long and hard at a Hot Rod.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

I own two and love them. They're professionally made. I'm not worried about electrocution. And they don't cost that much more than the homemade versions.
 
Before you charge down the path of making one of these, I think you should look long and hard at a Hot Rod.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

I own two and love them. They're professionally made. I'm not worried about electrocution. And they don't cost that much more than the homemade versions.

Another vote for the Hot Rod. I also own two. I love DIY as much as the next guy, but the quality of these units is amazing. I've never priced out a similar build, but I don't think a guy could DIY something of the same quality for less money. Not trying to tell you your business or anything like that, just agreeing with TexasWine that you might want to take a look at them.

Cheers and good luck with the project.
 
I made 2, (i'm cheap), they both ended up leaking. Bought the Hot Rod; wished I wouldn't have wasted my time & money building 2.
 
I haven't been on HBT in a long time. I'm glad that I received the email notification of new posts to this thread -- I never heard of the HotRod sticks before and am going to order one! I had been planning on building a third heatstick but that seems to be the way to go.
 
Before you charge down the path of making one of these, I think you should look long and hard at a Hot Rod.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

I own two and love them. They're professionally made. I'm not worried about electrocution. And they don't cost that much more than the homemade versions.

Thanks for the heads up man. Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed and would much rather build my own. But just looking at the quality and cost of the Hot Rod...why would I bother? I love breaking out my man skills, but I can't compete with that. :mug:
 
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