differences in grain types

Can anyone tell me the difference in 2 row american and 4 row american barley?

I've never heard of 4-row. 2-row has two rows of heads while 6-row has six rows of heads. From a brewer's standpoing, 6-row has more diastatic power than 2-row (more enzymes to aid in conversion) but 2-row is considered to have a fuller, maltier taste.

Some good reading is available on the web:
http://byo.com/mrwizard/872.html

Under what circumstances is the use of 6-row (instead of 2-row) generally called for?

I've never used 6-row before, so can't say based on experience. I think some people like the grainier flavor that 6-row provides and it may also be advantageous when mashing large amounts of adjuncts (think BMC and rice) due to its high diastatic power.

Sorry bird, I meant 6 row. So the difference is that it is a different strain of the same species of barley? It would seem that either variety would make a good standard ale then right?

I'll defer to the experts, but aren't there some other differences, like protein content? Can you still do a standard single-step infusion mash with 6-row?

By the way, the coopers cervesa that I made last was terrible. Way to sweet with no hoppiness at all. I may have bottled to soon since it tastes so malty but I was dissapointed anyway. I have a coopers stout in secondary right now and plan to do an all grain red ale at Christmas then I will start using the american 2 row it seems. I want to make a good APA. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks guys and thanks Barron von Bee Gee.

Try a read on the article about the differences between the two.

Wild

Baron von BeeGee said:

I've never heard of 4-row. 2-row has two rows of heads while 6-row has six rows of heads. From a brewer's standpoing, 6-row has more diastatic power than 2-row (more enzymes to aid in conversion) but 2-row is considered to have a fuller, maltier taste.

Some good reading is available on the web:
http://byo.com/mrwizard/872.html

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4 row barley is still grown and malted in northern europe, where it is prized for its hardiness in the cold climate. It is not widely used elsewhere due to its steeliness and low yeild. It is actually a six row barley that appears to have 4 rows because of its thin elongated head.

This according to Noonan in New Brewing Lager Beer.

Well, I should have known that since I'm a Noonanite!

Baron von BeeGee said:

Well, I should have known that since I'm a Noonanite!

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Yeah, how did you miss that? Even I knew that, and I'm not even an Nooanian acolyte yet!

Chairman Cheyco said:

Yeah, how did you miss that? Even I knew that, and I'm not even an Nooanian acolyte yet!

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No hiss followed by a strange powdery substance came out of that package I sent?

Great article wild.

I guess it really doesn't matter what type barley is used for home brew as long as it fits with the type beer you are trying to brew, such as ale lager or stout. That really simplifies things for me. I suppose I will start with the cheapest variety and experiment from there. No sense learning to play golf with a $2000 set of Pings in other words.

To use your analogy don't think of it as golf clubs think of it as golf balls, they are not durable goods. Would you recommend someone start playing on the course with range balls or relatively inexpensive Titleist or Nike balls?

I'd suggest brewing a few proven AG recipes using the recommended malts (almost always 2-row) first. This will give you a basis for comparison using more common ingredients.

“I suppose I will start with the cheapest variety and experiment from there. No sense learning to play golf with a $2000 set of Pings in other words.”

As a far better chef than I once said: if you start with great ingredients, it is much easier to get great results.

Get a good bag of Bries, Gambrinous, or other name brand, and brew some good beer.

Or maybe even great beer.

If you need to get it for less money, look around for a homebrew club near you, almost always they’ll know where to get the best value. We went from over $38 per bag to now $22.50. it keeps very well as long as you keep it cool and dry.

I think I will try the all grain kits from Midwest for a while and get used to the process. Then maybe that would be a good time to experiment with individual ingredients. I am trying to put together my equipment and dont want to make costly mistakes with grain before I have worked out the kinks in my process first.

It's cheaper to make mistakes with grain than it is with extract.

dcarter said:

I think I will try the all grain kits from Midwest for a while and get used to the process. Then maybe that would be a good time to experiment with individual ingredients.

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Excellent idea. You know you'll have good ingredients and a good recipe, you can concentrate on your technique without worrying about the other parts of the equation.

I decided that I needed to get into all grain even after only four batches of extract brewing. The extracts simply don't allow for enough experimentation for my taste. They also are hardly ever "hoppy" enough for my taste.

I am very excited to get started with AG and should have all of my equipment ready for the new year. As far as grain types, I would like to find a good recipe for pale ale and then buy 50 pounds of the required grain and brew up as much as I can, then move on to an new recipe. It seems like the most economical way to brew good beer.

Can anyone tell me how long crushed grain will last before it goes stale? Can you freeze it without introducing off flavors? All tips and tricks are appreciated and will probably at least be tried once.

Srore your grain cool and dry. Freezing it may introduce moisture into the grain.
Crushed grain should be used up within a month IMO.

Wow, 6 years later and I still learn from this thread! I'm now making one barrel batches in my new 30 gallon system. Thanks guys!