butterpants
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I don't use water to top um
Slanting yeast
- Thread starter Saccharomyces
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
The wyeast nutrient I have calls out 2.2grams for a 5gal batch, did they change their formula since this post? If you really need this amount what is the reason?
The beginning of this thread calls out using a whole slant in 250mL of starter as the first step, but toward the end it seems like people are just using a few loop of yeast in a 10mL as the first step. What is the current thoughts on this?
I like the original approach as it has less steps, but it seems like if you start with a 10mL step you could reduce the number of vial of yeast you need to have hand for any given strain.
I like the original approach as it has less steps, but it seems like if you start with a 10mL step you could reduce the number of vial of yeast you need to have hand for any given strain.
Hi everyone; Recently I have been 2nd guessing the strength of my slants & plates.... it seems there is a range of gravities being used, anywhere from 1.002 to 1.040 and so my question is what strength are you using and why, or perhaps better, whose suggestion are you following?
I use the information from this post early in this thread.
I reduced the amount of nutrient from 5 grams down to 1 gram. I was initially nervous about the amount of nutrient as it seemed like a lot compared to what you use in a 5gal batch but after looking thru the information on the maltose falcons yeast page the amount makes sense but it looks like more nutrient just speeds up the growth process but does not increase the total number so I went with less. So far most of my slants have filled in nicely within 4 or 5 days.
Look at the text right above table 1, it suggests using the same wort strength as a starter, table 3.
ba-brewer, thanks. I got it.
In the sprit of "One good deed deserves another" I would point out that the author is actually saying in effect, NOT to use starter strength media for propagations.
At least that is how I read it.
Thanks again.
I went back and reread the paragraph and it does seem like that they are recommending to make slants from a low gravity medium.
I looked closer at table 3 and the recommended recipe(1.5%agar, 7% DME, 1%nutrient, 91% water) in this thread and it looks like the wort strength in this thread would be less than 1040 but higher than table 2.
I also look at the "Yeast" book and it says for slants/plates use 1040 wort and an unspecified amount of nutrient then boil to form hot break so that should give something more than 1040.
Seems like most things in brewing in that there is plenty of leeway in how you do things and still get acceptable results.
I looked closer at table 3 and the recommended recipe(1.5%agar, 7% DME, 1%nutrient, 91% water) in this thread and it looks like the wort strength in this thread would be less than 1040 but higher than table 2.
I also look at the "Yeast" book and it says for slants/plates use 1040 wort and an unspecified amount of nutrient then boil to form hot break so that should give something more than 1040.
Seems like most things in brewing in that there is plenty of leeway in how you do things and still get acceptable results.
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Not sure how to tag this thread, therefore replying here so I can track it when I have time to wade thru all these posts.
Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
I made it thru the first 10 pages, but tomorrow is Saturday!
eimar
Brasserie Montfort No NEIPA brewed here
Thank you Saccharomyces for starting this thread ( still alive after 10 years ). For 1 litre of wort I use 1 litre of filtered water, 100 grams DME and 1/8 tsp Fermaid K ( yeast nutrient ) .
For the slants and the 20 ml propagation test tubes I use crystal clear wort ( wort that has been autoclaved at 15 psi for 15 minutes and decanted ) . Using crystal clear wort makes it easier to see if the 20 ml test tube is contaminated or if it starts fermenting after being inoculated from the slant ( the wort becomes hazy ).
For the slants , 16 gr agar / litre of wort. I like the Now Foods brand available from amazon.
Jacques
For the slants and the 20 ml propagation test tubes I use crystal clear wort ( wort that has been autoclaved at 15 psi for 15 minutes and decanted ) . Using crystal clear wort makes it easier to see if the 20 ml test tube is contaminated or if it starts fermenting after being inoculated from the slant ( the wort becomes hazy ).
For the slants , 16 gr agar / litre of wort. I like the Now Foods brand available from amazon.
Jacques
Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
I was making a bunch of canned wort today for starters, I use 3 oz DME per quart. The first batch I boiled separately, cooled and let break material settle, decant, then pressure canned. Still get a lot of break material in the canning jars. Going to try @eimar method for a cleaner wort.
Last couple batches of slants I used canned wort, made for some of the clearest slants.
edit: If you spin or gently swirl the jars of canned wort the break gets dislodged from the side and settles over time. If you break the vacuum slowly then allow to resettle you can decant very clean wort.
I got some sterilized pipettes to transfer clean canned wort to the vials for the first 20mL step.
edit: If you spin or gently swirl the jars of canned wort the break gets dislodged from the side and settles over time. If you break the vacuum slowly then allow to resettle you can decant very clean wort.
I got some sterilized pipettes to transfer clean canned wort to the vials for the first 20mL step.
Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
Yeah, got that. What I'm saying is in the first batch I boiled separately, and separated clean wort from the break material. Then when pressure canning, got MORE break material. So even when I put "clean" wort in the slants, end up with break material in the slants.
I think there will always be some break, or at least I have not been able to avoid it. I believe it is mostly cosmetic, seems to settle below the sloped surface.
I have made a batch of all grain beer that I boiled added whirfloc allowed to settle and it still makes more break once it was canned. I just use DME much faster and easier.
I have made a batch of all grain beer that I boiled added whirfloc allowed to settle and it still makes more break once it was canned. I just use DME much faster and easier.
Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
Well, yesterday I made a cooling rack for slants. Today, I got a new batch of agar powder and 20 disposable plastic petri dishes.
I already had a batch of canned wort made up, so I mixed up a new batch of medium (500ml sterile wort, 7.5 grams agar, and 1 gram nutrient). Pulsed it in the microwave to bring it up to a boil, with frequent stirring breaks. This stuff started setting up before I could get 22 slants filled. Pressure cooked at 15 PSI for 15 minutes, then cooled for an hour. Put all the slants in the cooling rack, lids still loose, and filled 10 plates. Everything is cooling now, and it looks like no hot break in the tubes.
Stylin'!
As soon as everybody's cool, will tighten and tape lids.
I already had a batch of canned wort made up, so I mixed up a new batch of medium (500ml sterile wort, 7.5 grams agar, and 1 gram nutrient). Pulsed it in the microwave to bring it up to a boil, with frequent stirring breaks. This stuff started setting up before I could get 22 slants filled. Pressure cooked at 15 PSI for 15 minutes, then cooled for an hour. Put all the slants in the cooling rack, lids still loose, and filled 10 plates. Everything is cooling now, and it looks like no hot break in the tubes.
Stylin'!
As soon as everybody's cool, will tighten and tape lids.
peter78
Well-Known Member
Looks great! Where did you get the tubes from?
Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
Amazon.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5GDVMG
The lid liners are not autoclavable. I just removed them. The rolled edge of the aluminum caps fits pretty well against the glass. Tape makes it bulletproof.
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Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
Dave Sarber
Unindicted Co-conspirator
NEWBIE YEAST RANCHER!
Kind of an experimental run. I had a couple tubes of WLP007 that were way past expiration date (August 2019). Cut one tube open and streaked a plate, then filled 3 20ml empty tubes with the remainder. After 3 days, no activity, so I figured maybe it was dead. Took one of the 20ml tubes, and dumped it into a pint of canned wort to see if there was any life, not looking good. Day 4, and I had growth on the plate! Still not much life in the mini-starter. Day 5, mini-starter showing a little fermentation (2 liter soda bottle, capped, getting hard from CO2). Just innoculated 5 slants from the plate, everything looking good. Saved a questionable tube of yeast!
Kind of an experimental run. I had a couple tubes of WLP007 that were way past expiration date (August 2019). Cut one tube open and streaked a plate, then filled 3 20ml empty tubes with the remainder. After 3 days, no activity, so I figured maybe it was dead. Took one of the 20ml tubes, and dumped it into a pint of canned wort to see if there was any life, not looking good. Day 4, and I had growth on the plate! Still not much life in the mini-starter. Day 5, mini-starter showing a little fermentation (2 liter soda bottle, capped, getting hard from CO2). Just innoculated 5 slants from the plate, everything looking good. Saved a questionable tube of yeast!
