Thanks fred but asking for help when there is 200 pages of information was a lot quicker!!! Especially when it was the topic at hand.
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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Thanks fred but asking for help when there is 200 pages of information was a lot quicker!!! Especially when it was the topic at hand.
Thanks Wurzel, I'll take a look at those.
Nice Mention! +1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110-120V...628?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6626468c
The specs say 5amp but mine came with 15amp. You might need a relay depending on amp draw of what you are controlling.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I have two of those in the control panel for my HERMS, and I've been happy with them. The SS probes are actually pretty nice and respond to temp changes very quickly. The cables for the probes are pretty short, but it's easy enough to extend them. Mine came accurately calibrated, but they also have a calibration feature in the menu.
If you're doing a gas fired HERMS, you won't need any SSR's, since the relay built into the controller will be more than sufficient. If you're going electric you'll need SSR's, but IMO a PID might be a better option for about the same price. A PID will give you a lot more options and flexibility than a simple on/off controller like these.
I have no idea. I am actually using it to control a space heater in our master bathroom to give the girlfriend a warm room. I did not bother calibrating the probe. It works really well though.
kosmokramer
Well-Known Member
can someone help me wire up this controller, it is not the stc model but read two stage controller. the diagram shows
loading - power supply - function control - temp probe
1,2 - 3,4 - 5,6 - 7,8
loading - power supply - function control - temp probe
1,2 - 3,4 - 5,6 - 7,8
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I'd bet it's the single stage unit. You'll be able to control either cooling or heating, but not both at the same time.
kosmokramer
Well-Known Member
I recall it saying 2 stage but maybe im wrong... can u tell from this? What is the point of the function terminals 5,6?
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Looks like the instructions for the single stage, but it's hard to say for sure. If you put a jumper across 5-6 it "locks" the set points so that they can't be changed using the menu.
cmw6300
Well-Known Member
kosmokramer said:
Could you post a full picture of those instructions? I have the same controller but no instructions. Thanks in advance!
I have some better instruction in my laptop bag and will scan them to PDF at work tomorrow.
cmw6300
Well-Known Member
Kingfish said:
Awesome, that would be great, much appreciated!
kosmokramer
Well-Known Member
better how? those are the mfg ones but alot of it is broken english... if you have something better i would apprectiat it as well
cnw, if need be i can fax em over or email if the other directions arent for the same model
cnw, if need be i can fax em over or email if the other directions arent for the same model
Built mine today. Was a little time consuming since I had never done ANYTHING like it before. I did mess up by cutting the ground connection on the outlet.
Also I found it really hard to get everything to fit in the dual gang box.
Also I found it really hard to get everything to fit in the dual gang box.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I used a 4x4x2 PVC junction box, and it's a very tight fit. I think most people went a little bigger.
I decided that the headache of my work around is not worth $25. So I just ordered one on ebay from mixtea. Heard someone else mention they had good luck. Will probably use your pvc box idea and opt for a slightly larger one. Thanks! Will be back in 1-2 weeks to look over the wiring info on here.
If anyone has a single-stage controller, model # WH7016C, you can get the manual here: https://sites.google.com/site/barrooze/WH7016C_instructions.pdf
There ya go. Better than the ones I have.
I've been trying to find a sweet spot in this thread but I'll just ask here - can I use these temp controllers for my keezer build - how would you install it into the collar? Having a hard time picturing this I'm not the handiest person. I was thinking about buying a johnson but it would look way nicer if the LED is built into the collar.
abridgel said:
A couple ways. You could either build a dual or single gang box into the collar and put it in there. Or if you are sure you can be precise you could cut a hole just large enough for the controller to fit in and just slide it in there.
You then could route the wires inside the collar for a clean look.
So once the controller is installed into the collar where would I put the plug that is attached to the controller - how would I plug the freezer into this plug?
You know what I mean?
Has anyone installed a controller into a keezer?
You know what I mean?
Has anyone installed a controller into a keezer?
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I installed my controller in the back of the collar of my keezer, and then ran the wires down the back into a single gang box that I tucked into the compressor compartment. The freezer and rope lights plug into this outlet, which then has a 5' cord that plugs into the wall.
-MG-
Well-Known Member
So I've been using the controller without a hitch for about 3 weeks now. And this morning I came down to my lagerator and found the controller off but the fridge running (it's hardwired into the fridge's power).
Checked the connections, one or two looked like they kind of came loose, readjusted with power off, plugged in the fridge and the controller didn't turn on like it normally did. I hit the power button it came on, but was cycling like crazy with the clicking that usually comes with turning on a heating or cooling element.
I'm wondering if something else came loose in my wiring. Didnt have time to fiddle with it so I'll have to go through everything later. I ordered another one just in case something went bad in mine.
Checked the connections, one or two looked like they kind of came loose, readjusted with power off, plugged in the fridge and the controller didn't turn on like it normally did. I hit the power button it came on, but was cycling like crazy with the clicking that usually comes with turning on a heating or cooling element.
I'm wondering if something else came loose in my wiring. Didnt have time to fiddle with it so I'll have to go through everything later. I ordered another one just in case something went bad in mine.
Think you may have a bad relay. Also check to see if your transformer is supplying the correct voltage to the 24v side of your relay. It sounds like your relay is maybe chattering on/off. This could be due to a bad relay inside your temp controller or your 24v 110volt relay.
flanneltrees804
Well-Known Member
Question... I have my stc-1000 on order and picked up a project box and cord today. The cord is 16 gauge and 25' long. I was just going to cut off about 3 feet of the cord to use to connect the controller to the outlet; is this what you guys do or do you get different wire? I just figured I don't need a 25' power cord but it was on clearance for $4.
arkham_razors
Well-Known Member
Should work fine.
flanneltrees804
Well-Known Member
Bad news, I just took a second look at the cord and it's NOT grounded... am I asking for trouble?
Not being grounded you will be defeating any grounded appliance downstream. If whatever you are plugging into it is not grounded and the box you put it in is not metal then you are fine. If the appliance (fridge/freezer/etc) has a ground then get another cord and run the ground to the outlet as recommended in this thread. I am not using a grounded plug on mine but I am only using a non-grounded appliance (space heater.)
benbradford
Well-Known Member
Just when I thought that there was nothing left to surprise me (or maybe just not much) this little diy blows my mind
Berniep
Well-Known Member
flanneltrees804 said:
Careful, the length of the sensor wire is pretty short. Wont reach from the top of the fridge to my fermenter inside.
The sensor wire can easily be extended (as has been discussed in this thread.)
Anyones unit stop working? I have been using mine for about a year or so now and it was working fine. I set the temp higher on my lager to let it free rise for a diacetyl rest and it just never kicked back on? I am gonna open it up sometime next weekend to see, but was wondering if anyone else had ideas?
