American Pale Ale 15 Minute Cascade Pale Ale

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I brewed a recipe inspired by this but I changed it up a bit. For a 3.5 gallon batch I used 5 lbs light DME, 0.25 lbs crystal 60, and 0.05 lb roasted barley for color. I also extended the boil to 20 minutes.

Columbus 1.25 oz 20 min
Cascade 0.5 oz 10 min
Cascade 0.5 oz 5 min
Cascade 1.5 oz 0 min
Cascade 1.5 oz dry hop

I used whirlfloc at 15 min and I am fermenting with s05. I am interested to see how this turns out. I have a enough extract still to do 2 more 3-3.5 gallon batches like this. I have been doing all grain recently and the extract I had was just sitting around for probably 18 months. If this is good ill prob do an all citra and maybe an all apollo or bravo 15-20 minute pale ale.
 
Brewing this today! Im going to try 2 oz of cascade for dry hopping. Anyone think this may be too much?
 
The last time I brewed this up I used 2 oz of cascade to dry hop. It turned out wonderful just keep in mind that it will be cludy for quite a bit of time due to the amount of hops in the recipe
 
Yea figured that. I also forgot to add irish moss. I had it there to dump in too! Also for some reason I thought the directions said to drop grain in and pull out at 155. So thats what i did. Dont think itll matter too much though. My OG was 1.052, used SF-05 for this.
 
You should be fine without the irish moss. Ill be honest that I typically forget to add it and most of my beers turn out great. The key is to leave the beer in the primary for 1 month. About 2 weeks into that month you should be at terminal gravity. Take a reading and then add the dry hops and leave it for another 2 weeks.

Your beer will clear as time goes on.

This is a wonderful beer to help keep the pipeline full
 
wcarter1227 said:
You should be fine without the irish moss. Ill be honest that I typically forget to add it and most of my beers turn out great. The key is to leave the beer in the primary for 1 month. About 2 weeks into that month you should be at terminal gravity. Take a reading and then add the dry hops and leave it for another 2 weeks.

Thanks for the reply! Shes bubbling away now. Yea a month in the primary seems to be the ticket. I did an Orphys mild for quick turn around. I was drinking it by day 11 all carbed up ect. While it was good, it still tasted a bit yeasty and was cloudy. Cant rush a good thing! Do you bottle after the month? I was going to keg it after that and let it carb up. Does anyone know the suggested carb volumes for this?
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I used a modification of this recipe to clean up some ingredients I had lying around. I used 12 oz of 20L and 4 oz of carapils instead of the crystal 60. I also used Saaz instead of cascade during the boil, as well as dry hopping with 2 oz of Saaz for 7 days. I bottled after 25 days in primary.

After two weeks of bottle conditioning I cracked one open. Excellent! Very clean flavor, it tasted like I was drinking a bag of hop pellets. Given how easy it was and how tasty it turned out, I'll definitely use this in the future to get rid of leftovers.
 
This is 15 min because its extract and the malt extract need only boil for 15 min to get it bacteria free. It tastes good because the hop quantity is so big you don't need to utilize it completely. Given that most recepies call for bittering hops at 60 min and all other hops, no matter what the combo, within the last 30 min., my question is, can you turn any brew into a 30 min boil by just doubling the amount of bittering hops at the beginning of the boil?.
 
Your not. Boiling the crystal for 15 min. You are starting with a full water volume and adding the grains at room temp water and heating it up to 170 degrees. At 170 remove grains. It takes me 45 min to heat 6 gallon water to 170 degrees
 
You're using very little crystal malt. Aside from that, though, the DMS is driven off during kilning, so I'd expect crystal to have little to no DMS-P.

The extract, supposedly, also has DMS driven off during creation.

As long as you don't lid the boil and keep in what little DMS you'll make, I doubt it'd be a problem.

@wcarter, DMS only starts being produced from DMS-P at ~160. Essentially, if it were a normal mash, you'd be extracting DMS-P from the grain, but not creating DMS until the boil. That's a good thing -- without a vigorous boil, the DMS isn't easily driven off.
 
I just kegged and forced carbed this after sitting for 25 days (2 weeks on 2oz of cascade), all i can say is delicious. Its young but it tastes awesome. Mine finished out at 1.010 making it 5.42%.
 
Two weeks in keg and tasting great. Reminds me of Lagunitas IPA aroma and flavor.

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I've brewed a variation of this beer a couple times. I was glad to find this thread because it let me know about the process - the short-boil hop burst extract APA, which fits in perfectly to my brew schedule. It allows me to brew up a batch in an evening, and I plan to always have this or a close variant on hand.

I wasn't into having quite so much caramel malt in the beer, so I backed off to a small addition of both 40 and 60L crystal. I also wanted the beer to be a bit lower ABV. And actually in future versions I plan to drop the OG a bit further, to make it more a session beer that I can drink several of on a weeknight without getting crocked.

The first time I tried this I blended Cascade and Columbus hops, but didn't care for the flavor contribution of the Columbus. So this, my second attempt, I blended Cascade and Centennial, and I"m much happier.

This is a very nice pale ale. It has adequate malt backbone, but the hops are the star. A fantastic balance of C-hop flavor, aroma, and bitterness. I clarified it with some gelatin, and it dropped crystal clear pretty quick.

All in all, I"m really happy I found this thread and this will be a staple beer of mine.

15-Min APA
10-A American Pale Ale
Author: Steve
Date: 05/12/2012

Size: 5.46*gal
Attenuation: 81.3%

Original Gravity: 1.048 (1.045 - 1.060)
Terminal Gravity: 1.009 (1.010 - 1.015)
Color: 9.61 (5.0 - 14.0)
Alcohol: 5.1% (4.5% - 6.0%)
Bitterness: 30.8 (30.0 - 45.0)

Ingredients:
5*lb (87.0%) Dry Light Extract - added during boil, boiled 15*m
.5*lb (8.7%) Crystal 40 - added before boil, steeped 15*m
.25*lb (4.3%) Crystal 60 - added before boil, steeped 15*m
.25*lb Maltodextrine - added during boil, boiled 15*m
.5*oz (12.5%) Cascade (6.7%) - added dry to primary fermenter
.5*oz (12.5%) Centennial (9.7%) - added dry to primary fermenter
.5*oz (12.5%) Cascade (6.7%) - added during boil, boiled 1*m
.5*oz (12.5%) Centennial (9.7%) - added during boil, boiled 5*m
1*oz (25.0%) Centennial (9.7%) - added during boil, boiled 15*m
1*oz (25.0%) Cascade (6.7%) - added during boil, boiled 15*m
1.0*ea Fermentis US-05 Safale US-05

Pitched at 62F, allowed to rise to 64 for several days, then slowly ramped to 67. Fermented for about 2 weeks, dry hopped for 4 days then kegged.

Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.5.22
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photo (2).jpg
 
So, without a full 60 minute boil, is 15 minutes long enough to give the correct bittering?
 
I was satisfied. Need to bump your additions obviously. And this will of course leave a fair bit of hops flavor behind. Fortunately, moderate bitterness and prominent hop flavor is practically the definition of the style.

You'll probably want to use some software to calculate the amount of hops you'll need to add.
 
I brewed this on 7/8/12. I racked this to secondary and dry hopped yesterday. Nailed my FG (1.014) using some washed Notty with a starter. The hydrometer sample tasted great. I think I'll let the hops do their thing for a week, then I'll cold crash for 4 days to 1 week. Then I'll keg and wait even longer... If this turns out as good as I think it's going to, I'm adding this to my rotation. Sometimes, six hour brew days just aren't feasible.
 
Do you guys recommend upping the dry-hopping to 2 oz Cascade? And when you add the dry hops, do you just crack the lid, toss in the hop pellets, and stick the lid back on?

Thanks!
 
frogtaco said:
Do you guys recommend upping the dry-hopping to 2 oz Cascade? And when you add the dry hops, do you just crack the lid, toss in the hop pellets, and stick the lid back on?

Thanks!
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I used 2 oz of Saaz (not Cascade) to dry hop. (I had a bunch to use up.) I santized the hops by putting them in a measuring cup, putting in just enough vodka to cover them, and letting it sit for five minutes. Then, I just cracked the lid and threw them in, but then I had some small amount of hop debris floating around at bottling time. I didn't cold crash back then though, I assume that would have helped. If I were to do it again, I might throw the hops in a sack before putting them in.
 
Thanks!

LeverTime said:
I used 2 oz of Saaz (not Cascade) to dry hop. (I had a bunch to use up.) I santized the hops by putting them in a measuring cup, putting in just enough vodka to cover them, and letting it sit for five minutes. Then, I just cracked the lid and threw them in, but then I had some small amount of hop debris floating around at bottling time. I didn't cold crash back then though, I assume that would have helped. If I were to do it again, I might throw the hops in a sack before putting them in.
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i just did this brew. followed your recipe to the t. i used notty as its what i had on hand and wanted to add some fruity esters. primaried at 68-70 for 12 days so far and my FG is at 1.022. seems super high. its still in the primary by the way. i left town for the first 7 days so don't know how much activity was going on then. i know my airlock is no hydrometer but i haven't seen any activity since iv been home. i was considering re-pitching another round of notty or adding some nutrients. I'm gonna give it a few more days and see what happens. any suggestions? also, did u guys use a bag to dry hop?
 
reed1099 said:
i just did this brew. followed your recipe to the t. i used notty as its what i had on hand and wanted to add some fruity esters. primaried at 68-70 for 12 days so far and my FG is at 1.022. seems super high. its still in the primary by the way. i left town for the first 7 days so don't know how much activity was going on then. i know my airlock is no hydrometer but i haven't seen any activity since iv been home. i was considering re-pitching another round of notty or adding some nutrients. I'm gonna give it a few more days and see what happens. any suggestions? also, did u guys use a bag to dry hop?
Click to expand...

I used a bag. I only did 1oz and it is amazing. I just kegged it on Friday and the sample going in was absolutely phenomenal. It's the perfect amount of hops for me
 
I'm going to give this one a shot in a couple weeks when I pull the ingredients together. I'm pretty new, so it seems like a good one. I tend to like less hoppy beers, should I modify the recipe at all? Different hops, or less cascade? Thanks!
 
reed1099 said:
i just did this brew. followed your recipe to the t. i used notty as its what i had on hand and wanted to add some fruity esters. primaried at 68-70 for 12 days so far and my FG is at 1.022. seems super high. its still in the primary by the way. i left town for the first 7 days so don't know how much activity was going on then. i know my airlock is no hydrometer but i haven't seen any activity since iv been home. i was considering re-pitching another round of notty or adding some nutrients. I'm gonna give it a few more days and see what happens. any suggestions? also, did u guys use a bag to dry hop?
Click to expand...

Any suggestions yet? Should I re-pitch?
 
mbburn05 said:
I'm going to give this one a shot in a couple weeks when I pull the ingredients together. I'm pretty new, so it seems like a good one. I tend to like less hoppy beers, should I modify the recipe at all? Different hops, or less cascade? Thanks!
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This is a very good recipe. I made the jump to all grain back in March, but I tried this one 'cause sometimes 6 hour brew days suck! This is one of the best beers that I've made. My favorite style is Imperial IPA, so my opinion might be a bit skewed, but I think it's the perfect amount of bitterness for an American Pale Ale. You might want to lower the bittering hops by a touch, however. I do recommend upping the dry hops to 2 oz Cascade. Keep it with all Cascade. It's a perfect hop for pale ales, and with you being pretty green, you can savor all the grapefruity goodness that Cascade has to offer!

I will offer a bit of advice: monitor your fermentation temperature as closely as possible. I've found that in addition to sanitation, this is one of the most important factors in making good beer.

Cheers and good luck! :mug:
 
Sounds like a great beer to beginning summer brewing next year! Heck, maybe even make a small batch sometime because my dad likes pale ales all the time it seems.
 
couldn't I take almost any recipe and double the hops used at the start of the boil and make it a 30 min boil? Assuming all other hops are to be added in the last 30 min., which is usual, just double the bittering hops at the beginning of the boil, 30 min, and make it 30 not 60, no?
 
Well, what would happen is that you would get quite a bit more hop flavor than you would on the basic recipe. For some styles that's fine, for others it would be very much not fine.

That's the beauty of this recipe. You cut the brew day way down, and end up with a beer with moderate bitterness and high hop flavor and aroma -- the very definition of the APA style.

Also keep in mind that this is only appropriate for extract beers. For all-grain there are various other reasons for an extended boil.
 
I just had the thought to try this with either some darker crystal or steeping grains that give it more of amber quality with those same hops. Heck, amber malt extract has 2-row, crystal 60, and munich....maybe I'll do this with amber lme/dme and the hops noted. Just a thought....
 
I gotta try this one. I have a tone of cascades to use. I could have a pipeline of this for a long time!!!!!!! Glad I found this. Thanks!!!!!
 
tcory77 said:
I gotta try this one. I have a tone of cascades to use. I could have a pipeline of this for a long time!!!!!!! Glad I found this. Thanks!!!!!
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It's well worth it!

It also seems pretty foolproof. I put it to the test.

I moved my new brew pot to the kitchen sink and soon realized it was a lot hotter day than when I did my first two brews. The ice melted right quick. I had to leave the house and buy more ice.

When the wort was ready to pour into the fermenter was when I remembered I had meant to get a new strainer. Doh! So, in it all went. I reached for the hydrometer, and CRACK! Over it fell. (At least it was still in the plastic container.) So, no OG reading. Then, distracted as I was by the shattered hydrometer, I have no memory of ever aerating the wort before pitching the yeast.

A day or two after sticking the fermenter in the closet, I left town for about a week. When I got back I decided to just leave it in primary. When it was time to dry hop I just opened it up and tossed in two ounces of Cascade, not in a bag. Bottling went fine, except a week later than planned.

I just opened my first bottle of this two nights ago, and I can't stop thinking about the hoppy goodness. Despite the comedy of errors, this is by far my best batch of the three I've brewed. I'm already planning on brewing it again. And on opening that second bottle.
 
I am going ahead with this tonight. I have to up it to a 30 minute boil because I don't have capability for full boil volume. I have 6 lbs. muntons light dme. 8 oz. c40 and 8 oz. c60. I wanted a little more color so I went with 1 oz. of black malt as well. I was going to make this a red ipa of sorts but the lhbs didn't have carared. I adjusted. With the 30 minute boil its going to be 1 oz. cbus at 30 1 oz cbus at 15. 1 oz. cascade at 5 min. and also 1 oz. at 1 minute. Hopville tells me around 55 ibu which is about right where I would like it to be. 5.6% abv. Like mentioned before I also plan on making this a stable at my place. I know it's going to be good. It will give me a good chance to mess with hops. I'm thinking next time a citra/simco/centennial/cascade combo. I believe that is what is used in greenline pale ale at goose island which I am a major fan of.
 
here it is. A little lighter in color than I had hoped. A deep orange to light red in hue. This has a great body to it. Solid malt flavor. An extremely orange hop flavor. Light in the bitterness, I had this hopped to 55 ibus but it doesnt seem it. Love this though. this keg wont last long

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I know it is recommended to leave this in primary for a month, how would it be affected if that was cut shorter? I am brewing the deception cream stout (12 days in) and want to have a beer ready around christmas. I have done most of my beers with two weeks primary and one week secondary since I bottle everything.

If I did a 3 gallon boil, how would that affect the boil times, would I need to boil longer? and by how much? I don't have beersmith or an immersion chiller yet.
 

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