TravelingBrewer22
Well-Known Member
Any significant difference between the wattage in the hlt or bk?
4500 or 5500w element?
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I maintain a rolling boil with a 5500w element set at 55% duty cycle for 12 gal. in a 15 gal. boilermaker. The only difference that I would see is in the time it takes to heat from tap water temperature to the strike temperature and from sparge to boil temperatures. Should be about 25% more time for a 4500w element.
Lucky_Chicken
Well-Known Member
I am intrested in this also... i wouldnt think that 25% increase from a calculated 10 minutes would bother me since it is automated. it currently takes me about an hour on propane and i have to babysit it.
TravelingBrewer22
Well-Known Member
the reason I'm asking is because I can get a couple of 4500w elements on Amazon for $16 or spend close to $50 on 5500w ones. Just trying to figure out if that 25% is worth the extra cash or not...
iijakii
Well-Known Member
I went with a 5500w because it didn't seem that much more of a cost. But then again I only needed one. Keep in mind with electric you can set the temperature you want on your PID and walk away and do something else. So is that extra 5-10mins a big deal? Probably won't even notice it.
Lucky_Chicken
Well-Known Member
I got one 4500w element at menards for $20 the 5500 was ~50 so thats why i got it, but was debating on what to get for the HLT.. I assume that it wouldnt be a problem to get sparge water to temp in the hour while I am mashing?
Are they low watt density elements? I've used both and I try and buy low watt density elements because i seem to get a smoke/burn flavor without them. Don't want to scorch the wort!
Then again I only use them in my RIMS setup. I do direct fire for my boil with a 1500 watt 120v heat stick to help it reach boiling then shut it off. might be different with a full 12 gallons and not just a small RIMS tube
Then again I only use them in my RIMS setup. I do direct fire for my boil with a 1500 watt 120v heat stick to help it reach boiling then shut it off. might be different with a full 12 gallons and not just a small RIMS tube
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if you had to choose, i would put the 5500w in the HLT and 4500w in the BK. you cant scorch water with too much power, and it will heat your water faster. since you dont need 100% power on the boil kettle, you can just use a higher PWM percentage and a lower power heater.
also- you dont need the expensive ULWD ripple elements in the HLT. you can use the standard watt density ones without scorcing (its just water). i have two of the $6 5500w camco elements from amazon in the HLT.
you will want to have a backup of each, just incase you break an element in the middle of your brew day. otherwise you might have to toss the whole batch.
also- you dont need the expensive ULWD ripple elements in the HLT. you can use the standard watt density ones without scorcing (its just water). i have two of the $6 5500w camco elements from amazon in the HLT.
you will want to have a backup of each, just incase you break an element in the middle of your brew day. otherwise you might have to toss the whole batch.
Lucky_Chicken
Well-Known Member
How would you break an element? stiring? Its just a big resistor right, I would think the failure rate would be very low unless you are dry firing it.
Komodo
Well-Known Member
For me, it came down to the power requirements. A 30 amp circuit is required for a 5500 element. My shop is wired with dedicated 20 amp outlets for tools, and was a no brainer to go with a 4500 watt element.
I started with a 4500w element and it worked fine, I just moved to a 5500w element (the typical Camco ripple ULWD one that everyone uses) and it also...works fine. Not a lot of difference in time really, or at least I don't notice it, I'm certain it's there.
I do like the ripple shape though, leads to a much more even boil, less of an 'on/off' boil like I had with my LWD fold back 4500w element. And I feel better with the sheathing of the Camco being that black coating, like a stove element I think, instead of the chrome/brass coating that my old element had.
I do like the ripple shape though, leads to a much more even boil, less of an 'on/off' boil like I had with my LWD fold back 4500w element. And I feel better with the sheathing of the Camco being that black coating, like a stove element I think, instead of the chrome/brass coating that my old element had.
bigljd
Well-Known Member
+1, except I think they are about $17 here. They are Camco incoloy - the Home Despot price tag description says LWD, but if you read the back of the package it says Ultra Low watt density.
I think the 5500 watt element is cheaper than the 4500 watt at HD, not sure why.
The only advantage to the ULWD element in the HLT is for those mistaken dry fire accidents. I guess if you have backups, the HWD ones are fine.
MacGyver22
Member
+1 to this.
I just picked up 2 5500W units yesterday. They were a buck or two cheaper than the 4500W for some reason.
They are the straight incoloy, not the wavy ones, but they fit wonderfully into a keggle
brrman
Well-Known Member
The straight ones are likely not the low density ones. I think the LWD ones are wavy because they need the extra surface area.
I put a 5500w in both the HTL and the BK. But the BK has a low density, and the HLT element is not (cheaper).
My straight elements are ulwd. They are folded over so they are twice as long. They just aren't wavy.
brrman
Well-Known Member
ah I have never seen the ones folded over. cool
Same. Mine are straight and folded as well.. ULWD but not wavy
iijakii
Well-Known Member
The wavy adds to the bling factor!
Ok, but common sense would indicate that a wavy one will be a lower watt density than a folded one even if they both claim to be ULWD. It's based on area. The wavy one will have a longer element if the overall length from base to tip of is the same. The waves add length and, in turn, area.
Does anyone know the spec for ulwd? I guess it would be a certain number of watts per square inch. I wonder if there's an industry standard.
Shockerengr
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I've seen <50 W/sq in listed as what's needed to be called ULWD...but I |on't know if that's a standard or not
Just because it is wavy does not mean it is not shorter....
But I would agree that wavy would mean that more wort touches it therefore it creates more vigirous of a boil.
i upgraded my BK to a 4500 ripp element in a 15gal sanke and I've been pretty happy. My mash goes into the BK about 168 and I start heating the BK as soon as the element is covered. By the time I'm at about 13 gallons through my sparge, It doesn't take long to get up to about 211-212 where boil maintains.
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
+1 on the ulwd and dry firing. I switch my cables to my pots by accident the other day and dry fired my bk 5500 camco the other day for like 2 minutes. Still works. Just make sure to clean the heck out of it. I filled my bk and heated some water and it tasted like burnt wood. Had to scrub soot off the element. It is nice an clean now 
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Please explain.
As I said, if the overall length from the base to the tip is the same between a wavy one and a straight one, the wavy one will have a longer element. How can it not? lol.
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