Wiper Motor Mash Stirer

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aekdbbop

aekdbbop

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I have seen a few people have this, and it looks fantastic and kinda easy to do..

anyone have a link of instructions on how to build one? I will be using a keg top as a lid.. so I can use the dip tubes.

Thanks!
 
I dont have any pics of the build but what I used was a car wiper motor and tig welded the 2 dip tubs together and at the top of the tube I ground down a brass plug so it fit in inside of the tube, drilled a hole thru it and the wiper shaft & used a cotter pin to hold it to the wiper shaft.I use a power supply from a computer to convert the 120 volts to 12v for the wiper motor.
I figure it turns at around 60 RPM.I havent had a mash yet that could slow it down let alone stop it.
Hope this helps.


DSC00688.JPG


DSC00685.JPG
 
yeah, i think it was yours that gave me the idea..

what kind of brass plug are you talking about?
 
Not that I think there's anything wrong with the design, but I think inserting some solid 3/8" rods through the upright tube at various heights would be a nice way to stir more of the column.
 
Or to keep it cheap & use up the dip tubes, You could just weld on some more arms made from the dip tubes. I can go only so deep because of my elements & probes. And what I have seems to move the mash pretty good but adding more might do an even better job.
 
I am going to do this today.. i am thinking though about staggering the old dip tubes (having one on the very bottom, and another on the other side above it)

kinda like this
ll
ll
==========
.. ll
.. ll

and maybe turning them so that they cut into the mash.. like a fan blade

thoughts?
 
I'm going with lots of smaller diameter tubing, horizontally spaced on the shaft (also tubing). I am also going with a ice cream motor as it has more torque and only cost $30. Wonder if wood would be ok if you seal it. But, what would you seal it with that is food grade??? Humm, is polyurethane food grade?
 
WortMonger: According to the FDA, any modern wood finish that is completely cured is considered food grade. I think the FDA specifies a month to fully cure polyurethane finishes. I'd give it more if you build up a lot of coats. Alternatively, an epoxy finish would be superb and will seal the best.
 
01160007%20(Small).JPG


$3 for fan blade
$5 for threaded SS rod
mashing in in under 10 seconds???? Priceless

powered by cordless drill
 
I love gadgets as much as the next guy...but I've always wondered about this component of the system. You really only need to stir well at the beginning to ensure there are no clumps/doughballs....then it's kind of a moot point after that. Isn't this just another piece of gear to maintain/clean?
 
Depends on if you are doing any kind of temperature control. Temperature can have a wide variation within the mash if you don't stir.
 
mr x said:
Depends on if you are doing any kind of temperature control. Temperature can have a wide variation within the mash if you don't stir.
Click to expand...
Exactly, decoction on a 12 gallon batch scale is a PITA to stir back into the mash. I am looking to automate to insure better temperature evening throughout the mash schedule.

On this last batch I had temperature stratification and my floating thermometer only reads so deep. I did a test run before with water and didn't "loose" as much temperature as my thermometer says I did in my mash this time. I was afraid I overshot by 4*, then didn't get a proper reading until I removed the fraction for mash-out decoction and the thermometer held right at 152*F where I had hoped it was for the sacchrification rest. So, top part of the tun was over temp, and I bet the very bottom was under temp. Constant stirring without adding HSA would fix this.

I want to go with a completely submerged type of mash rake that really just combs the mash horizontally to break up any channeling (from steam injection from the bottom, or during sparging). The only part of my design seen from above the grain bed is the down shaft and maybe a few of the rake fingers after pulling a decoction.
Bellybuster said:
$3 for fan blade, $5 for threaded SS rod, mashing in in under 10 seconds???? Priceless- powered by cordless drill
Click to expand...
Unless you are slow speed and high torque, I wouldn't do this. HSA is going to happen even though it is a myth IMHO under relatively normal home brew situations. This would be like whipping it full of air without the slower speed and enough oomph to turn that slow.
I am going with an ice cream machine motor because of this very thing. It really doesn't move fast enough in a cream mix to whip air in, and has enough torque to turn almost completely frozen cream once the ice cream is almost done. They are made to run for extended periods of time (unlike a drill), and should be able to run perfectly in a thick to thin mash (provided you don't put enough resistance in blade area-which is why I am going with thin fingers). Also, if it wears out, they are easily replaceable with a trip to the store. Rival makes a nice, cheap, powerful 6 qt ice cream maker. This is just my two cents of course. I have made one before with copper tubing as the stir blades and it worked just fine. The only problem is it was on a much smaller than my scale brewery.
 
mr x said:
Depends on if you are doing any kind of temperature control. Temperature can have a wide variation within the mash if you don't stir.
Click to expand...

right, especially since i am under direct fire.
 
Excellent answers. I didn't want to sound like Debbie Downer...but the more I brew, the greater respect I get for those "solid" pieces of gear that are indispensible...you know....things that are all about utility but not necessarily very high on the *wow* scale. I've spent a lot of time completely enamored with gadgets, etc. but find that there are only a few that I keep coming back to, and several that sit on the sidelines :)

Question: Are you guys pulling the stirrer out at the end, letting things settle, then recircing with a pump for clarity?
 
Question: Are you guys pulling the stirrer out at the end said:
My stir motor runs at around 60 rpm... I dont worry about HSA.
Yes that is how I do it. Then I run the pump till it clears.
Click to expand...
 
I hope for close to 60 so I can rheostat it if less is needed. I do think if you had nothing but the shaft showing you can get by without the threat of HSA.
 

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